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Old 11-18-2013, 07:09 PM   #16
Forde
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Just buy some filter foam and cut a new one
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forde View Post
Just buy some filter foam and cut a new one
Thanks, Forde. My foam was about a quarter inch thick and finding replacement foam would have been no problem; what I was mostly concerned with was what kind of adhesive to use that would join it together, as not every kind of glue likes mixing with gas & oil fumes. I did use Krazy Glue on the carb o-ring and it seems to not be leaking but I don't know how it would work on the foam.

Turns out that my foam element was sown together with something like a fine fishing line, which kind of surprised me. I used a K&N filter cleaning kit; I know there are probably cheaper ways to accomplish the same thing, but since this was my first time doing it, I thought I'd go with a tried and true brand.

Here's the filter removed from the holder, ready for cleaning.



As you can see, it's not in too bad of a shape, although it's a lot dirtier than it looks.



The first step is to spray the cleaner into the foam, working it in with your fingers.



Let it sit for about 10 minutes, but not so long that it dries out. Next, I got a bucket of cold water, and dunked the foam in it, gently squeezing. The gunk turned the water a foamy black immediately. I was surprised that the engine could run at all with all that dirt in there. It made me realize the importance of making sure the air cleaner is clean whenever you go to the trouble of cleaning your carb.



I did a second bucketful but as you can see the filter was pretty well clean after the first rinse.



Let it dry completely. You don't want water in there when you apply the filter oil. I'd say I let it sit out in the sun for about three hours (hoping that a seagull wouldn't take off with it) . Next, I sprayed it down with the K&N filter oil, making sure to cover it completely, both inside and out. The red color of the oil makes it easy to see if every bit of the foam is covered.



There she is, all cleaned up and ready for reassembly. Looks good enough to eat! Chocolate cake!



Installation of the carb and firing up next to come!

I'll be in the garage.
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:19 PM   #18
klx250sfguy
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Nice job!!
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:06 PM   #19
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Carb Installation & More

First thing I did was pull the old spark plug and replace it with a new one, an NGK BPR6HS, for a standard heat range. The old plug looked a bit oily.



The plug should be gaped between 0.06mm and 0.07mm. Putting the carb back on the bike was quite easy; a few tight spots, mostly on the nut closest to the engine cover. Here's the carb being mounted to the air intake. There's not really room for fingers back there so you've got to use something like needle nose pliers to hold the nut in place until the bolt seats itself. Also, the auto bystarter (basically, an electric choke) is held on by a large nut which I found easier to connect to the carb before mounting the carb back on the air intake due to similar access issues.



How do you like my expensive carb throat protector? That white thing covering the carb was the cap to a water bottle, but it fit good and kept random things from falling inside.

With the carb back where it should be, it's simply a matter of reattaching the cleaned air filter to its housing in the air box. A label on the back of the air filter holder says UP. Put it on that way.



Last thing was screwing in the throttle cable into the top of the carb, replacing the fuel line and adding a new fuel filter. The fuel line might have been a tad too small, because it took a heck of a lot of effort to get it seated on the filter. Maybe the filter was too big. I used some zip ties to make sure everything was snug.



So..... I wheeled her out of the garage and fired her up. Always a great moment, right? Wow, what a difference a clean carb and air filter make! Here I am in my mechanic's moment of triumph! Who says I'm all thumbs?



Where before she couldn't even hold an idle, now it's steady & strong. I had to fiddle with the mixture screw a bit, but not too much. Sadly, my funky rear tire prevented me from taking a victory lap, so it was back into the garage to change out my tires, which, as luck would have it, arrived that same day.

Here they are, fresh from the UPS truck, along with two Motion Pro spoons. (You really should have three.)







Because the way the stand is situated on my scooter, I decided to change one tire at a time to avoid a teeter-totter situation and give me more leverage for removing the big 22mm rear axle bolt. First things first. Remove the three bolts and two nuts that hold on the muffler. Turns out you don't have to remove the two nuts that hold the exhaust pipe to the cylinder completely because the flange is slotted and the whole thing just slides out sideways. The things you learn as you go!



Next, remove the lower shock bolt, the fender bracket and the swing arm.







Here's the 22mm rear bolt. It's torqued to between 58 - 72 ft lbs and the wheel just spins unless you stop it somehow. This was a two person job, and my bf did the spinning while I put my weight to good use sitting on the saddle. Between the both of us, we got it done.





Now the real fun begins: Getting the tire off the rim. If there are children present, you may want them to leave. What follows may be too disturbing for younger viewers. You have been warned.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:23 PM   #20
klx250sfguy
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I like your can do attitude and look forward to your ride reports!

Great job!
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:04 AM   #21
RedArrow OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klx250sfguy View Post
I like your can do attitude and look forward to your ride reports!

Great job!
Thanks, KLX. My inspiration came from another inmate in Hawaii who took an old, rusted Honda Elite that I wouldn't have even touched and brought it back to life as a bastard Ruckus. Not my riding cup of tea, but his determination was remarkable.

If I can find the thread, I'll put the link here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=867934


That said, changing my tires kicked my butt.

I've never done it before, so naturally I checked out YouTube for pointers. Getting the tire off the bike was easy; it was getting the tire off the rim that was near impossible. The videos we saw made it look so easy to break the bead, so my bf and I set out with high hopes and all the necessary tools.



Turns out missing from that happy picture was the 800 pound gorilla, a Thesaurus for looking up new cuss words and a box of Kleenex for our bitter tears. All of those are needed for the first-time tire changer.

What is needed is the knowledge of how much force to apply where at the right time. If you've never done this before, you don't really have a good idea of these mysteries, and so you tend to flail away with misdirected fury. Soapy water is your friend. Here's the steps as we tried and tried...

Step one. Use a doohicky to remove the thingamajig from the valve stem.



Step two. Place ill-fitting red clamp on tire. Yes. It's got to be red.



Step three. Add lubricant. Windex, soapy water or even spit works. Here's where a rabid dog would come in handy.



Not really step four, but if you want to protect your rims from scratches, you can shell out for fancy rim protectors from a motorcycle store or you can do like my bf here and butcher and old garden hose and basically wind up with the same thing. Of course, after losing them inside the tire, I could appreciate why the fancy ones have strings attached.



Finally, after tugging, stepping and cursing, we were about to take a break and crawl into a wine bottle when the bead just sort of popped without any pressure at all. Kinda like fighting with a jar of pickles; at some point it just gives. We both actually laughed out loud at how ridiculous it made our previous efforts seem.



With the bead broken, it was time to bring the tire irons to bear. This was the easy part.





Gus approves our work.



Getting the new tire back on was simply a matter of reversing the deal with the tire irons, with a lot of soapy water to ease the way. Our stupid home compressor is on the fritz, so we have to take the tire to a local bike shop to "pop the bead" and re-inflate it to 28lb and remount it on the bike. Gotta love that free air!

Oh, and while the wheel is off the bike, it seemed a great time to make sure the lining was still within specs. It is, as you can see.



That's it for now. Any questions or suggestions of successful bead breaking methods greatly appreciated.

~ Tootles
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:26 AM   #22
DaBinChe
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click on my signature and go to my youtube channel on breaking the bead. I also have another video on changing the tire that has another method of breaking the bead. I'm gonna need to change my tire in the next few weeks and will show another way of breaking the bead so you can stay tune for that.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by DaBinChe View Post
click on my signature and go to my youtube channel on breaking the bead. I also have another video on changing the tire that has another method of breaking the bead. I'm gonna need to change my tire in the next few weeks and will show another way of breaking the bead so you can stay tune for that.
Thanks for your links. I saw your video and agree that it's definitely a three spoon job. Why Motion Pro sells them in a two pack escapes me, because two's not enough and four is one too many. Like hot dogs come in a twelve pack and hot dog buns come in a ten pack, or the other way around.

I'll try your three spoon method on my front tire. I also used a screw-driver as a placeholder since I didn't have three spoons on my last tire removal. My problem now is getting the new tire started on the bead so that the air can actually seat it. I've seen zip ties being used. Any ideas?
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:18 PM   #24
BanthaBob
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Cute bike. Love the retro 80s theme dash board.

I would expect the bike to start talking to me like Kit from Knight Rider at any moment.



Micheal approves..
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:55 PM   #25
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Hey, thanks for the kind words and a pic of that dreamy David Hassellhoff. I've always loved old things and back a few years I owned a Nissan Stanza Wagon that had the same R2D2ish esthetic as my 84 Aero.



Such a cool car. The things we let slide through our hands...
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:16 PM   #26
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To get the beads back up to the rims so you can pump them on, first get the tire nice and warm. I put them in the summer sun, but I guess you could put them in a warm oven. Then put a tiedown around the tread like a belt around the whole circumference. Pull it tight, really tight, while you and your bf are pushing in on the tread. That will cause the beads to spread. I was able to get them to set with a bicycle pump.

Or you can take the new tire, with the wheel off the scooter, to an industrial tire place that works on trucks and trailers and welding rigs and maybe forklifts and smile and be courteous and they will do the job for you at a fair price, in my experience. Car tire shops are not well set up to do it, and motorcycle shops use it as a major profit center.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:04 AM   #27
DaBinChe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedArrow View Post
Thanks for your links. I saw your video and agree that it's definitely a three spoon job. Why Motion Pro sells them in a two pack escapes me, because two's not enough and four is one too many. Like hot dogs come in a twelve pack and hot dog buns come in a ten pack, or the other way around.

I'll try your three spoon method on my front tire. I also used a screw-driver as a placeholder since I didn't have three spoons on my last tire removal. My problem now is getting the new tire started on the bead so that the air can actually seat it. I've seen zip ties being used. Any ideas?
I'll make some more videos by the end of the year. You can get a single Motion Pro tire spoon on Amazon. Motion Pro also came out with a new tire iron/bead breaker that I got a few months ago that works similar to the method that I showed.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:38 AM   #28
DaBinChe
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Originally Posted by Wentwest View Post
To get the beads back up to the rims so you can pump them on, first get the tire nice and warm. I put them in the summer sun, but I guess you could put them in a warm oven. Then put a tiedown around the tread like a belt around the whole circumference. Pull it tight, really tight, while you and your bf are pushing in on the tread. That will cause the beads to spread. I was able to get them to set with a bicycle pump.
Yes to the above, on colder days I place the tire in the car with the windows rolled up facing the sun. Also remember to flip the tire every half hour or so for a few hours prior to install. I would also add a few other tricks. Sometimes but not always new tires will come with cardboard that space/spread out the bead, leave them in place until you are ready to put on the new tire. This really helps if the beads are spread out over a long period of time and tire heated up before install. Remove anything that squeezes the bead together. Before you pump up tire spray soapy water, the surface tension will surprisingly hold air and let the tire enlarge enough that the bead will seal against the rim, the fit has to be pretty good but his makes the difference between air escaping out small gaps or being held in.

A low cost useful thing to have is one of those jump starter/air compressor things. I got one from Costco and it works great. I use to work at a scooter shop that used that very same one from Costco and I seat many beads with it. Thing worked in a shop environment for almost a year then finally gave up and we returned it to Costco for a replacement (gotta love Costco!)....I was so impressed by it that I recently got myself one for home use.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:55 AM   #29
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I always remove the valve core, lay the wheel on the ground and step on the edges of the tire. Almost always pops the tire right off of the bead.

For refilling, bicycle pump for my road bike. Takes some work but it can exceed 100psi.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:45 AM   #30
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Dear all above. Thanks for your input. It will certainly help anyone doing this for the first few times, including me! Before I could put all your advice to good use, I was out trying to make tire friends.

I stumbled on my own Jethro Clampett rope belt method of trying to get my tire to act more like a tire, but I only managed to get about half of it seated on the bead. A tire spoon served as a handy tourniquet and potentially lethal flying weapon. Kids, don't try this at home.



There comes a point when doing the same thing without success starts gnawing at your soul and that's the perfect time to step back and reassess your options. I reached that point with my tire. There is no shame in this so long as you learn something along the way. I certainly have doing this job.

Time was when every town had at least one little independent family-owned garage or auto parts store where people could hang out, shoot the breeze and try to avoid stepping on a sweet old dog. Such a place is Andy's in downtown Santa Cruz. They may not have as many parts in stock as the nearby chain store, but what they provide in personal service more than makes up for it. So that's where I headed, tire in hand.



Mike was very helpful and actually endorsed my rope cinching effort. Using his compressor, he was able to set the bead in a matter of minutes. I can see now that I didn't quite seat the tire on the rim hard enough and also didn't warm the tire in the sun nearly long enough. Next time I'll know better. Thanks again everyone who helped.

Success! The total charge for labor was the cost of a mere sandwich. Aren't these folks great? And they're not even really a motorcycle shop.





As far as balancing the tire, I tried these "balancing beads" which I'd never heard of before.





I'd like to know if anyone's used these before and if they're worth the money. You just fill the little bottle with a packet of the beads and then squeeze them into the tire (with the valve insert removed). I guess it's supposed to work as the tire rolls down the highway. We'll see...

Gotta go to work now. See you in a few.
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