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Old 12-21-2013, 08:22 AM   #91
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Alright, here goes. So, with the beautiful weather forecasted for yesterday and today, I decided to take the bike out for a proper test ride. My plan to to ride some of the usual routes that we run around here, if they were not snowed over. Some of the routes on my hit list were: long run, rough run, westside, moyer's gap, and dunkle hollow. My dad joined me, and we met up with Warren at lunch in Harrisonburg.

My dad and I ran some great bits of dirt & gravel on the way to Harrisonburg, but the real test was coming up after lunch. Unfortunately (and as I was fearing), we started to see a lot of lingering snow in the shade and the sides of the road.



Sure enough, when we got to the one end of long run, there was no way we were gonna ride this...



So we decided to reroute, and try to go up Briery Branch, and up and over the mountains via Moyer's gap. The roads were great and clear right up until we got very close to the top.



At the top...



Yep, not gonna make it across this way either.

So we decided to go back down and either wind our way down to rt 250 to go over the mountain, or try other alternates as they came up. Just down hill, I saw Tillman/Tilghman road, and decided to give it a shot. Not 1000 yards down this road, there was a bridge going over a small creek. As I came up to the bridge I was going about 45 MPH. I saw large water puddles on either side where car tires go through, but the center appeared dry to me, so I picked the center line. That was my mistake. Turns out the center was covered in ice! I went down like a rock, and according to Warren who was right behind me, slid about 30 feet or so (the length of the bridge), until I came to rest up against the guard rail. After a split second self assessment, I realized I was OK, and got up to give the guys a thumbs up to let them know I was alright.

We got the bike up, and aside from the obvious: broken windshield, and broken headlight assembly, we noticed that the chain had popped off somehow.



The bigger problem was this...



Yep, that's oil.


So we roll the bike off the bridge, to the side of the road, where we can take a better look at it. It seems like the oil is coming from behind the counter shaft sprocket cover. So we pull off all the covers and see that the chain jammed up around the counter shaft sprocket, and broke a piece that fits over and around the counter shaft sprocket. This piece is #39193D on the schematic drawings (pipe oil). Not only did it break this piece in two (the lower bit still bolted onto the crankcase), but it also broke the boss on the crank case where it bolts to at the top. This is where the oil was coming from, and as you saw from the video, when you run the engine, it squirts out like a water gun!

So we knew that riding the bike out was not an option, and that's when Warren offered to go home and get his trailer to retrieve the bike.

So now I'm weighing the options of what to do.

1) Find and purchase a wrecked Versys or Ninja and do an engine swap.
2) Replace the broken bit and see if we can secure it properly. After all, oil does not pass thru the boss that's broken.

Obviously option 2 is much cheaper and easier, and if it doesn't work, then I'm out less than $100.

Any other ideas or suggestions are welcome.
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Old 12-21-2013, 08:50 AM   #92
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If you drain the oil and clean it up REALLY GOOD, and they can get to it, a GOOD tig welder can fix it up (without complete disassembly) good as new. Some might tell you they can't do it or it can't be done, but I've got a friend with a welding shop and he's done it for me on a bike that shelled the transmission and broke a section out of the case. One concern might be if it's a pressure passage, getting a complete weld all around to ensure good pressure.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:18 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If you drain the oil and clean it up REALLY GOOD, and they can get to it, a GOOD tig welder can fix it up (without complete disassembly) good as new. Some might tell you they can't do it or it can't be done, but I've got a friend with a welding shop and he's done it for me on a bike that shelled the transmission and broke a section out of the case. One concern might be if it's a pressure passage, getting a complete weld all around to ensure good pressure.

Exactly that.
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:02 PM   #94
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Damn Denis. Sorry to hear you went down but glad you are okay. I'm sure you will figure out a way to get the bike back on the road. We are pulling for you.
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:55 AM   #95
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Shoot Denis, glad you're ok! I guess gravity pulled the chain off sideways as the bike was laying down?

I think try to weld it if possible and look for another motor in the mean time

(cop motor)

Hate to spring a leak overseas

Insurance claim?

There has been a no title ninja on DC CL for $500
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:17 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentvet View Post
There has been a no title ninja on DC CL for $500
are those the same motors? I looked on CL up my way for cheap Versys' for a donor project without and luck.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:49 AM   #97
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The bottom end appears to use the same castings, which is supported by JD's experience. So, yes, a Ninja engine should bolt right up.
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:03 AM   #98
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Sorry man, glad you're ok. Ice sux
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:43 AM   #99
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I was thinking about this yesterday, and I think that this exact reason is why dirt bikes have chain guides in front of the rear sprocket.

Perhaps future Rat Ninja builds need to have chain guides installed.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:31 AM   #100
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My DRZ(Dennis' old bike) has a guide under the countershaft cover that is supposed to stop the chain from jamming up in there.

I've heard of other bikes breaking the case around the countershaft when the drive chain breaks or comes loose from the rear sproket.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:37 AM   #101
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Damn Denis. Sorry to hear you went down but glad you are okay. I'm sure you will figure out a way to get the bike back on the road. We are pulling for you.
^^+1^^
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:01 PM   #102
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Dennis, just saw this man. I'm bummed for you. Let me know if there's anything I can do for you.
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Old 01-01-2014, 04:44 AM   #103
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How's it going Denis?
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:37 AM   #104
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Does the bike run excessive chain slack when at rest to get proper tension when the trans CS center, swingarm pivot center and rear axle are aligned?

My thoughts are it probably does, and I'd be looking at adding a rear chain guide like every dirt bike has, that captures and aligns the chain onto the bottom of the rear sprocket. The CS guard isn't a bad idea either, but keeping the chain on the sprockets would be better and then only a neglected chain breaking would be a threat.

I'd probably try to add a forward roller or KTM style flat guide up front too.
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:51 PM   #105
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Dennis, just saw this man. I'm bummed for you. Let me know if there's anything I can do for you.
I blame that "free" front tire you gave me for causing the accident!

Just kiddin' bro. Bike was running like a champ before my unfortunate encounter with the slippery, frozen stuff.


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How's it going Denis?
Hey Jack, happy new year! Doing good. Just been enjoying the holiday. However, I've got a plan in mind. After careful scrutiny over blown-up isometrics of the engine casing, I've decided to try and repair the damage without having to replace the case. After all, the only part of the crankcase that was broken, is part of a boss with two holes; one hole is threaded but is plugged in the end (this part is used to hold on the top end of the pipe oil that was broken), and the 2nd hole is actually a channel through which the oil that is channel by the pipe oil returns into the crankcase (this part is intact). Obviously since the part where I would normally screw in a bolt is 1/2 way broken, I'm afraid that I won't be able to properly tighten the bolt to specified torque. Therefor what I'm thinking of doing is securing a stud in place of the bolt, slide the pipe oil over this stud, and then tighten to specified torque with a nut. Parts are on order, and I hope to get the replacement pipe oil in later this week. I've also got a new front windshield coming in later this week or next week. The only thing I haven't fully decided on, is what to do with the lighting. Replacing the OEM Versys headlight cost around $200. I'm entertaining other ideas that are less expensive and hopefully more crash resistant. Will update with pics once I get started on the repair work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Navin View Post
Does the bike run excessive chain slack when at rest to get proper tension when the trans CS center, swingarm pivot center and rear axle are aligned?

My thoughts are it probably does, and I'd be looking at adding a rear chain guide like every dirt bike has, that captures and aligns the chain onto the bottom of the rear sprocket. The CS guard isn't a bad idea either, but keeping the chain on the sprockets would be better and then only a neglected chain breaking would be a threat.

I'd probably try to add a forward roller or KTM style flat guide up front too.
You know, I didn't think that there was that much slack. I think this was just an unfortunate case of bad luck. When I went down, I went down on the drive side of the bike, the bike was in gear with the engine running as I went down doing about 40mph or so, and I think that with the combination of gravity pulling on the chain, the bike being in gear, and the suspension being fully decompressed, this is what cause the chain to derail.

However, I have been thinking about a chain guide as I would not want to repeat this kind of problem. I'll be looking into it in the coming weeks. I'm open to suggestions if anyone has ever fitted a chain guide on a Versys swingarm.
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