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Old 01-08-2014, 12:37 PM   #76
JerryH
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The Stella is an interesting project isn't it? I find it far more fun to work on than modern scooters. I plan on getting a rear rack for mine. And I considered a top box, but decided it wouldn't look right on a Stella. So I'm going to get a roll bag instead.
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:23 AM   #77
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Got a couple of things out of the way. Removed the switching unit from the Stella. I made a jumper wire so that if I decide to put it back in it will just plug in.



Added some heat shrine to seal it.



Removed the old glass style fuse and soldered and heat shrinked a blade style fuse holder to replace the old one. The old one used a smaller fuse than your typical fuse.



I also cleaned up the wiring and secured it while I was in there.




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Old 01-11-2014, 12:05 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryH View Post
The Stella is an interesting project isn't it? I find it far more fun to work on than modern scooters. I plan on getting a rear rack for mine. And I considered a top box, but decided it wouldn't look right on a Stella. So I'm going to get a roll bag instead.
I agree that a new style top box would not look good on a Stella or a P series Vespa. I have a faded Prima Rollbag that I will use on mine. If I could find a top box like the one on this Vespa I would consider it. I think you could use it as a camper it is so big....



I would like to get a front rack for mine, as long as it does not interfere with the leg shield guard. I would have skipped the guard, but it already has hole drilled in the leg shield and I figured it would be a pain to try and fill/fix. Plus I figure that the bar that goes across the from might work for some LED driving lights and to carry a sleeping pad and bedroll... It is this style-



Anyone have any advice for painting chrome black? I was going to sandblast it, but after the parts sat for 4 weeks at the shop and had nothing done on them, I decided to bring them home....
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:05 PM   #79
conchscooter
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In my pursuit of a reliable old Vespa I talked to Gene at Scooters Originali about replacing the wiring in my 1979 P200. He said that as it's a (slightly mysterious) European spec Vespa, replacement wiring harnesses are available and one is on order. US spec 2-stroke Vespas havent been built in decades so ready to install wiring isn't apparently available so I feel lucky I wanted what I got, an early premix battery-free P200. Not to mention finding Gene as I have no desire to rebuild my own Vespa. Not if reliability is what I am seeking at any rate...
In pursuit of reliability I think wiring is critical as intermittent faults can be the devil to figure out and can stop an engine in its tracks. Even more so when riding in the rain as shorts multiply when wet. Besides the original wiring on mine was as brittle as uncooked pasta and the exposed wires were as green as a two dollar bill. Glad to say goodbye to the mess.
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:26 PM   #80
JerryH
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The wiring on the Stella is really simple, but they made a mess of installing it. I had to move things around and use several zip ties before I could get either the horncast or handlebar cover back on after removing them. Under the horncast, I stuck as much of it as possible back inside the hole in the leg shield. I don't think you will need that switching module, I threw mine away.

My Stella is now kick start only after removing the electric starter, and may at some point also be batteryless and premix only as well. Without the electric starter, which is completely unnecessary, as it starts on the first or second kick, the battery really serves no purpose, as the ignition runs off a magneto. As for the oil injection, I think it works better than premix, but that's only IF it works. I've heard it is not very reliable on the Stella. And the ancient design engine is designed to run on premix.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:36 PM   #81
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I broke out the dremel tool and started on the changeover from 7507 single filament bulbs to 1157 dual filament bulbs on the rear. I plan on making it so the Stella has running lights on the rear as well as turn signals.

Here is what I started with-



I cut off the socket with the single filament-





Next I used a little sanding drum to make the hole larger so a set of 1157 light sockets from an old Ford would fit. The fit was snug.





Added some 5 minute epoxy to hold the new 1157 sockets in place. Now to find a plug system so I can have a more solid reliable connection for the rear taillights and blinkers.

I plan on using LED bulbs so it should provide very little drain on the electrical system.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:40 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryH View Post
The wiring on the Stella is really simple, but they made a mess of installing it. I had to move things around and use several zip ties before I could get either the horncast or handlebar cover back on after removing them. Under the horncast, I stuck as much of it as possible back inside the hole in the leg shield. I don't think you will need that switching module, I threw mine away.
I agree the wiring WAS a mess.... I removed the Switching unit and cleaned the wiring up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryH View Post
My Stella is now kick start only after removing the electric starter, and may at some point also be batteryless and premix only as well. Without the electric starter, which is completely unnecessary, as it starts on the first or second kick, the battery really serves no purpose, as the ignition runs off a magneto. As for the oil injection, I think it works better than premix, but that's only IF it works. I've heard it is not very reliable on the Stella. And the ancient design engine is designed to run on premix.
I plan on leaving the electric starter, and running a battery. The oil injection works well, and I have not seen too many problems indicated with the oil injection system. I read the entire Stella forum on Modern Buddy while recovering from a minor surgery and do not recall that coming up as an issue.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:42 PM   #83
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Wiring for taillights

Ran the wiring for the taillights today. After fighting with some wire I decided to try a Harbor Freight Fishtape.

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-n...ape-66505.html

I wanted to run the wiring through the frame with the wires being attached to the from turn signals which I knew had good power. They are also protected from most things and the connection is in the glovebox then. By doing this I did not have to open the wiring harness up.

I had the gas tank out for a couple of reasons so it was the time to run the wires.

The fish tape easily slid through agh frame and came out in the gas and oil tank compartment.





Next I stripped the ends of the wires, twisted them together, and wrapped them with electric tape. Said a quick prayer and slowly pulled them through. IT WORKED!!!



I used some heat shrink to wrap the wires and they look like they are supposed to be there.....



Ordered some Posi-Taps for the connection, and have to pick up some new fuel line so I can put the gas and oil tanks back. If you have not seen or heard of Posi-Taps, here is a link to additional information, From what I have read they are AMAZING!!!!

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

TaTa for now,

~climbamt
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:08 AM   #84
FizzyRascal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climbamt View Post

I would like to get a front rack for mine, as long as it does not interfere with the leg shield guard. I would have skipped the guard, but it already has hole drilled in the leg shield and I figured it would be a pain to try and fill/fix. Plus I figure that the bar that goes across the from might work for some LED driving lights and to carry a sleeping pad and bedroll... It is this style-
My racks/guards . . .

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Old 01-24-2014, 07:10 AM   #85
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Nice Bike FizzyRascal!!!!


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Old 01-27-2014, 09:30 PM   #86
Hoseman
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I just saw your list of scoots. Sounds familiar. My wife has an '07 GT200. I have a '08 Stella that I sold a People 50 for a down payment and my best friend and riding buddy has a people 150.

Anyway,

Here is my solution for keeping the battery in place and not having to use that shitty indian rubber:



You can get the bungee by the foot from the hardware store.

Do yourself a favor while you have the gas and oil tanks pulled, take a dremel and enlarge the hole that the oil sight glass goes through and it will make taking the tanks in and out much easier in the future. I have mine out right now because I am now on my third broken sight glass.



...just try not to let the tool run away from you like I did.

While I was taking things apart I figured I would go ahead and clean and rebuild the carb and maybe install some Boyesen Power Reeds. Supposed to be the best bang for your buck in the power dept.



I'll let you know what they are like as soon as the gaskets come and I can put it all back together.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:35 PM   #87
Warney
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Put Blue Loctite on those screws holding the reed petals!
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:07 AM   #88
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Good point and I did.

They usually use some sort of glue at the factory to keep them tight that requires a bit of heat to loosen but mine came off with very little effort.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:12 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman View Post
I just saw your list of scoots. Sounds familiar. My wife has an '07 GT200. I have a '08 Stella that I sold a People 50 for a down payment and my best friend and riding buddy has a people 150.
I have been fortunate and all of my scooters have been nice reliable rides so far. I hope the Stella falls into this category!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman View Post
Here is my solution for keeping the battery in place and not having to use that shitty indian rubber:

You can get the bungee by the foot from the hardware store.
Thanks for the idea!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman View Post
Do yourself a favor while you have the gas and oil tanks pulled, take a dremel and enlarge the hole that the oil sight glass goes through and it will make taking the tanks in and out much easier in the future. I have mine out right now because I am now on my third broken sight glass.

...just try not to let the tool run away from you like I did. :berg
Great idea!!! I will be careful. I have a nice Dremel with the bits on the end of a flexible power line. Should make the grinding easy

Quote:
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While I was taking things apart I figured I would go ahead and clean and rebuild the carb and maybe install some Boyesen Power Reeds. Supposed to be the best bang for your buck in the power dept.
Nice job. I would love to know how the Power Reeds bump up the power

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoseman View Post
I'll let you know what they are like as soon as the gaskets come and I can put it all back together.
Looking forward to the updates!

~climbamt
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Old 02-13-2014, 06:02 PM   #90
Hoseman
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The new reeds are super cool! They have really rounded out the throttle response and all those little dips and hesitations through the power band have eased out and the engine seems to rev out a bit faster.

Well Worth the effort and only about $30!

Boyesen Power Reeds for an RD350
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