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Old 12-17-2013, 07:20 AM   #16
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
...
I really hope the pistons/jugs and heads are in good shape. Like most things this will cost more than I expected but if those items need replacing it will really drive up the cost
...
If the price starts going too high, remember you can always go for Plan B.

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Old 12-17-2013, 11:21 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
If the price starts going too high, remember you can always go for Plan B.
Brand new crate engine? Or 2nd hand replacement?

If new how big was the hole in the wallet?

/Johan
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by DirtyADV View Post
If new how big was the hole in the wallet?
not new but I'm still not listening, la la .. la la .. la la .. is it over yet

Oh and Munn quoted me $3750 for a freshly rebuilt motor from KTM, not new but rebuilt with all new parts; no clue if this means the latest cases (re: Pyndon's rebuild thread which is must-read if the OP hasn't read it).
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:53 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by DirtyADV View Post
Brand new crate engine? Or 2nd hand replacement?

If new how big was the hole in the wallet?

/Johan
I got mine for an incredibly low price that probably couldn't be matched now, but I have seen them on Ebay for not much more than a couple grand.

The trick is to find an Adventure, rather than a Super Duke. I guess they crash more SDs; Ebay has three of them right now. The $1300 one has some case damage BTW.

If you can live with the close-ratio tranny, or want to swap gears, the SDs will work fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
not new but I'm still not listening, la la .. la la .. la la .. is it over yet

Oh and Munn quoted me $3750 for a freshly rebuilt motor from KTM, not new but rebuilt with all new parts; no clue if this means the latest cases (re: Pyndon's rebuild thread which is must-read if the OP hasn't read it).
That price doesn't sound too bad (I mean, other than being a hell of a lot of money).

Four years ago, used, un-rebuilt engines were going for that, or more.
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:03 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
The trick is to find an Adventure, rather than a Super Duke. I guess they crash more SDs; Ebay has three of them right now. The $1300 one has some case damage BTW.

If you can live with the close-ratio tranny, or want to swap gears, the SDs
I think Dirty may well know this
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:05 PM   #21
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I think Dirty may well know this
That part was meant more for the OP.
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Old 12-17-2013, 12:13 PM   #22
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That part was meant more for the OP.
You're supposed to be helping me to find a low-priced used motor, not encouraging a bidding war
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Old 12-17-2013, 02:37 PM   #23
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You're supposed to be helping me to find a low-priced used motor, not encouraging a bidding war
LOL dont worry I think a used engine is out of my price range and hell $3700 for Munn is a ton more than I paid for the bike in the first place.


I am getting prices together, but ball park I should be around $800 without too much of a problem as long as the piston/cylinders and heads are reusable.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:27 PM   #24
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Head Work

Generally, with that mileage you'll find: intake valve's seats are slightly worn, guides will be in tolerance, rings will be worn, but the piston ring lands may be out of spec.

The valves are stainless, you can get them ground if the wear is not too bad. May cost you $30. Do them all.

Find a shop with a Neway Seat cutter and have them touch up the seats. May take one hour $80.

Do NOT lap the valves. That will ruin the seat shape and you'll get fast wear. The Neway system leaves the surface rough and it gets peened into the perfect shape when the engine is started.

Chemically clean the pistons then measure them. New rings are a bitch to break in on a chrome bore. Do not hone a chrome bore. I've use only fine scotch brite pads to wipe a little texture on the cylinder. Don't put any oil on the bore when you assemble, just a little on the skirt of the piston. This get the ring break-in started quicker.

Why do you think the shift drum needs replacing?

I don't see why you'll need to split the cases. This plain bearing engine will go many more miles than a roller bearing engine. It needs more oil, but it can tolerate more dirt. If you do split the cases, replace the transmission bearings, esp. the output bearing behind the CS sprocket and the bearing behind the clutch. These go first and aren't expensive.

Buy a full engine gasket kit. Way worth the money.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:06 AM   #25
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The grub screw for flywheel removal is M16 with a 2mm thread pitch.

And bolt is a M20 with a 1,5mm thread pitch.

Will add pictures once I get back home, at work now but wanted to correct previous post that was wrong as soon as possible.

/Johan
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:45 AM   #26
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DirtAdv.....
Thanks if you have time I would really appreciate to see some pics.

Zuber.......
Thanks for the info. That makes me feel better about the potential condition of the heads and pistons. A lack of aftermarket support really makes these items expensive. I will look into finding a machine shop to grid the valves.

If I go this far I feel I may as well split the cases. One thing I want to replace is the oil pressure plunger (as documented by Pydon) as I have occasional timing chain clatter when the bike is hot.

I may leave the crank bearing as is depending on what they look like, I just did not know if that was more reliable than a ball bearing.

I was looking at the shift drum because it is an engine update. However, mostly I will have a fixed budget and will need to prioritize what I replace once I am in there. Thanks for the heads up on the output CS and clutch bearing
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:39 AM   #27
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Here grub screw can be seen:



Will upload a few more when I get home.

/Johan
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:52 AM   #28
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I miss round headlights.

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Old 12-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #29
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Oil pump pressure relief is out side of the center cases.

Not aware of a shift drum upgrade. There may be an updated part, but that doesn't always mean you need it.

One more thing, pull all the oil jets and clean out the passages. Don't need to split the cases for this.
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:09 PM   #30
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In my case I found the parts to be cost prohibitive.

400 piston x 2, 400 cylinder x2, cam chains I don't know, valves/heads, crankshaft?.

So I bought a 10k mile engine on Fleabay.
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