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Old 12-16-2013, 10:32 AM   #16
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
I'm at 10k and checked the valves. They were the same as I last checked/adjusted. Changed the spark plug. I have been using a NGK CR8EHIX, because most of my riding is high speed. The old one shows signs of leaner running condition, which was expected for emissions. The old plug gap increased to about 0.039", spec is 0.031"-0.035". The iridium electrode didn't wear much but the ground end did. I could of just made an adjustment to it and use the old plug but I got three more from a pack of four and at 10k change interval I can go 40k with what I have.

Changed the belt, spec service limit is 17.5mm mine is thicker then that but I don't like the fact that my speedo reading is 4mph less then when new. Haven't ridden it yet to see if I have a speed change or not. Since I changed the front tire 500miles ago and the rear 1k miles ago my speedometer reading should be pretty much as it was when the bike was new. I am using different tires so there could still be a discrepancy but theoretically they should be the same. After the tire changes my max speed read 48-49mph from the old front tire of 50mph. I'm hoping that the new belt will bring my top speed back up to 52mph like when the bike was new. I can see the wear on the variator that shows the belt wear when new to 10k miles. The rollers were not changed because they have yet to develop any flat spots, I'm surprised by this but it is a good sign. I can see where there is chatter on them. Also the three variator back plate guide slides are still in good shape and I don't hear much rattling in the drive which tells me those guide slides are not very worn along with the rollers. If the top speed still reads 48-49mph then I'm gonna conclude it as variation in the tire size. If it does change, which I believe it will, then for certain it is belt wear. And if I don't get back to the 52mph top speed I'll try new rollers and see.

So besides the worn belt everything seems good.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:33 AM   #17
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
Okay so the new belt got my tops speed back to 52mph, still on original rollers...thing those might go 15k miles. So if you are curios about when to change the belt, Honda says 15k miles in the schedule maintenance and the service limit is 17.5mm in the service manual. Mine had 10k miles and the belt was about a little over 17.6mm and top speed was about 48-49mph. So if you don't have calipers or don't want to take out the belt to measure it then the easy way is to see what the top speed is. I estimate by mine that if your scoot tops out at 48mph then the belt will be just about 17.5mm and time to change. Can't really go by mileage because of riding style and conditions. Also as mentioned previously, your drive should be clean for an accurate mph reading...as the drive gets muck up by belt dust you will lose a mph or so. Best to clean the drive every 2k miles, I find after 1k it's still pretty clean and after 3k I'll lose a mph off top speed.

One thing I notice in the last few thousand miles is that the bike seems to be able to coast longer with less engine braking. When new the engine braking was very noticeable and felt like there was too much but now it feels less.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:35 AM   #18
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
Things I use to clean the drive:
old toothbrush
simple green w/squirt bottle, I mix somewhere between 10:1 - 20:1 ratio of water to simple green, In the case of the drive I use higher water ratio because there isn't any grease/oil

you'll have to take off the variator and clean where the rollers are (pretty much everything that touches the rollers), the rollers themselves, the variator boss, the brass bearing of the variator. That should do it. If you are really anal then you can clean anywhere you see belt dust but since none of that interferes or touches the drive it would just be for looks..which I actually do about every 5k miles.

I also forgot to mention before that I had also clean the pinion gear..the part that engages the starter to the drive to turn the crank over to start the motor. Best to clean it with an aerosol can of WD-40, wipe it as dry/clean as possible and if you have an air compressor use that. Then get some grease in the parts that mesh.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:35 AM   #19
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
At 11k miles. The last 1k miles I started using Mobil1 10w-30 Extended Performance because I'm getting too lazy to change my truck oil every 5k miles as per the owners manual when I was using Walmart Supertech synthetic. With the Mobil1 Extended Performance, they say you can go up to 15k miles but I'm weary of that so I'll do it at 10k miles. So for the folks that don't already know, what ever oil I run in my truck I run in my Elite110 as well. One thing that I do notice with the Mobil Extended Performance is that it runs a little smoother in both my truck and scooter. With a 1k miles change interval on the scoot, the oil looks a little cleaner with the Mobil1. I'm considering increasing the interval to 1.5k or even 2k miles.

Having the scoot for almost two years and 11k+ miles and passing by numerous road side radar (some more accurate then others) the speedometer accuracy still holds up to the ~5% optimistic side.

I'm not sure if I mentioned this before or not but I'm finding that the elite110 runs stronger in warmer temps then colder temps. This has to do with fact that it runs more on the lean side because of emissions regulations.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:36 AM   #20
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
So starting the scoot lately has cause what sounds like grinding of the outer variator plate and the starter pinion gear. I took it out and had a look and all seems good with that interface.

The drive cover for the last few times has become more and more difficult to take off. This time around I couldn't pull it off with my bare hands. Looking at it the two dowel pins on the drive cover have rusted up pretty bad. Rust expands which explains the tight fit. Took them off with lots of effort via pliers and had to replace them. I suggest that they be cleaned (if rust is present use a wire brush) the next time you take off the drive and coated with anti-seize. This will stop the corrosion and make taking the drive off/on easy.

So back to the grinding noise. Since I started using an electric liner and electric gloves my battery hasn't been able to fully charge with in town (stop N go) riding. So I think a weaker battery is part of the problem, it makes the starter engagement not as quick and crisp. Also I notice that when I roll the scoot backwards it is more likely that the grinding noise occurs.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:37 AM   #21
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
well I'm at about 13.3k miles and the rear Heidenau k61 is worn past the wear indicator and is about half way between the wear indicator and being bald. Reach the wear indicator around 12.5k. So these tires lasted about 4k miles pretty much the same as the Michelin S1 and the stock ChenSheng.

My new tires are Kenda k413, got these for less then $30 so this time I went with the lowest cost tires cause them expensive tires didn't last any longer then the cheap ones. Traction in the back didn't matter cause the OEM ones never had any issues even in the rain.

Everything else is still running good and strong.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:37 AM   #22
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
At 15K miles now
changed: oil, air filter, final drive oil, coolant, brake fluid
checked: spark plug, valves, roller weights, variator slide guides, belt, brakes pads and shoes

Spark plug was good and was on the larger gap end of spec so I set it to smaller side of spec.
Intake valve was on target, exhaust valve was on the tighter end of spec so I set to target.
Variator slide guides still have hardly any wear.
Roller weights are still good and are actually still within new condition specification (18-17.92mm), service limit is 17.5mm...I'm really surprise by this, these are the longest lasting rollers I have ever seen.
Belt in spec...last time I changed and cleaned belt dust was at 10k and surprisingly there isn't much belt dust at all. I think when everything is new the variator and clutch faces aren't as smooth now that everything is nice and broken in the faces are really smooth so they eat into the belt less.
Brake pads looks like they can go to 20K miles. I don't use the rear brake much so I'm not sure how long they will last.

So in the last week the check engine light started blinking. How the check engine light (aka MIL) works is that there is two types of blinks, fast which is about 0.5 seconds and slow which is about 1.5 seconds. A slow blink represents 10 fast blinks, so for example if you have two slow blinks and 3 fast blinks then it is 23 blinks. So looking up the service manual it shows that nine blinks means the Intake Air Temp(IAT) sensor could have some kind of issue. It could be bad/dirty connections, short, faulty sensor, etc. The good thing is that the bike runs as good as ever. And if it is a bad sensor the system will go to it's default program and if something is really wrong then the system won't allow itself to run or run much above parking lot speed. The sensor is there to see how cold/hot the air temp is so it can adjust how much fuel is delivered. I don't know, but my guess is that the default temp is room temperature. I haven't had the time to go further into diagnosing what is exactly wrong. As far as fuel consumption goes it is still the same at 90* or 60* so I don't think there is much of an adjustment that the system does even if the IAT is working. Also the blinking is intermittent and won't always happen when running, it will clear out once the ignition is turned off, but will be saved in it's diagnostic memory until cleared out. I cleared it out but it came back again a few days later.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #23
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
yeah I'm still using mobil1 extended performance cause that is what I use in my truck

Service manual says final drive is 10w-30....for some reason (maybe on the met) I was thinking gear (hypoid) oil and that was what I put in better dump that out and put in the proper stuff. Thanks for bringing that up, I'm really starting to forget things. I think I used gear oil last time too.

Yes to read Check Engine/Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) and also to clear it out you need to short two wires. It is the red plug right under the ECU. No adapter is needed..the adapter is basically shorting out two of the four wires on the red plug.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:39 AM   #24
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
Went thru the troubleshooting in the service manual and it is the IAT sensor. They now make a spay cleaner for the MAP sensor...results still the same after spraying. Inside the throttle body it looked spotless including the MAP sensor. I'm gonna take off the throttle body and spray it that way and see what happens. Worst thing is the IAT needs to be replaced. Bad thing is the MAP and IAT are one unit but the good thing is that it only cost $55 for a new one and the O-ring.

Bike is running really well...getting higher top speed then ever peaking at 53mph, not sure if it was cleaning out the belt dust, valves, etc. but the belt does have 5k miles on it and the tires have several thousand miles on them. The last 3 tanks of gas has yielded almost 100mpg, first time ever and my riding hasn't changed any nor my commute.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:40 AM   #25
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
yeah same gas station....I'm thinking that because of the lean setting that the default program runs just a tad richer thus the motor is running at a more optimized rate. The highest elevation that I have ever taken the elite up is a little over 4k feet so I don't be able to compared the before and after if I ever take this bike up higher. I'm thinking that it would be fine because the MAP sensor and O2 sensor is still fine. Assuming that default program only goes with what ever is out.

I'm gonna order a new sensor anyways for when/if I need it.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:41 AM   #26
DaBinChe OP
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
at 16k and all is well..when I get the chance I'll look into the IAT/MAP sensor. Now the MIL is constantly on and not like before where it was intermittent.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:42 AM   #27
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
okay update on the MIL blinking. So I put in the new MAP/IAT sensor and same shit. Then I was like WTF! and went over the service manual again and found that I had looked at one of the pictures wrong, so I did the testing on that step wrong. Turns out that it shows a short circuit in the IAT. So I disconnected all the plugs for it to isolate the short. Turns out it was right there under my nose, cause by rubbing on that metal retainer loop/hook.
Here it is:


The IAT wire (white/blue) and another wire ( couldn't tell color) had rubbed bare, they didn't cross. Taped it up and heat shrink tube the metal as well as zip tie the wire bundle so there was no contact with the metal loop/hook:


So I recommend everyone to zip tie the wire bundle away from the metal loop/hook
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:46 AM   #28
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
- Were all US Elites assembled in China? Some online review article mentioned Taiwan or Thailand also.
Don't know, but should say on the VIN sticker where each individual one is made

- Is the final drive case (where the rear shock attaches to) vulnerable to breaking given strong impacts? It's just an inch-thick aluminum.
Should be fine for what it is intended for and within the weight limit

- Engine longevity with proper maintenance? Highest confirmed mileage on this motor in the US? (Saw one for sale with 20K miles).
I thought I had the highest mileage in the US. I don't see why it can't go at least 50k given proper maintenance. Obviously there will be wear and tear items. I'm over 17k already and it runs as strong and smooth as ever.

- Is the H4 bulb the common bulb used in cars and other motorcycle?
Very common if not the most common in motorcycles, the auto version of this bulb is a 9003 bulb also very common.

- What's the Honda's recommended tool to remove the variator nut (short of using the impact wrench)?
The service manual shows a holder but I am not sure if it is available in the US

- What's the real reason for drop in top speed? Mine will only do 49 before hitting the rev limiter.
Wear on drive parts (belt, tires, rollers, etc). When newer I can feel the rev limiter but now I don't really notice it anymore, it just stops going faster

- Are they in demands by thiefs? Any confirmed reports of stolen 110s?
Not that I'm aware of but one thing about small bikes is that kids want to take'em for joyrides.

- What's acceptable oil consumption? DBC, does your Elite use any oils between changes?
Not sure, I never really check, was gonna check this last time but forgot. I just make sure it is at the top of the hash mark and once 1k comes it gets changed.

- What's the stock battery brand and amp/hour rating? Mine came with chinese made gel battery (blue color) bran is called Tru Gel, based in TX somewhere. 7 amp-h.
Yuasa, I think 7Ah. It doesn't matter what type as long as the Ah is the same and it fits. Sounds like your battery has been replaced, stock it is a Honda label Yuasa

- Any major disadvantages in a gel battery vs standard lead acid (Yuasa?)? Longevity, cold start performance, etc.
I prefer the AGM battery they seem to perform better and last longer

- Alternator's output. How many extra light bulbs and accesorries can be safely powered from the alternator? in Watts...
I can run a Gerbing electric liner and gloves and as long as I'm not sitting idling most the time.

- Any easy and straighforward way to add extra bulbs in the tail light assembly where european turn signals are? I'd like to add an extra braking or parking lights.
You can get the Asia/Euro lights in there but I'm guessing it will be very pricey.

- Any practical way to disable the headlight from turning on with the ignition?
Put a switch on it.

- Any practical way to add a kick start? Without major modding.
No

- How long (minutes of riding) before a battery is recharged and recovers following a cold start (let's say at 60 F).
Guessing 15minutes or so.

- Why is speedometer showing 70 mph. Is the engine capable of higher speed or the bike cable of higher speed with different gearing?
All vehicles show higher then they can actually do.

- Most practical way to jump start the bike that has a dead battery. Do all front storage doors feel so flimsy and have a large gap?
Take off the front cover to access the battery, helps if you have jumpers that have smaller clamps. They do feel a little flimsy...it is what it is.

- Any practical/easy way to order white European/Asian market body panels?
If you know someone there, I would try to get'em from Asia for the lower cost
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:48 AM   #29
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
Just check my oil level with 1k miles and it was on the lower end of the hash marks, so my scoot does consume oil. I poured in more so that it was full and it was about 0.2qt. So after a 1k miles the level is still within range but at the bottom end. So for folks that want to go longer then 1k mile oil change interval just add more oil every now and then..I'm thinking I should check at 500 miles and if it goes down then I'll add more just cause I like my oil level to be full.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:49 AM   #30
DaBinChe OP
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 855
Just shy of 18k and had to replace my front brake pads. They started squeaking over 1500miles ago at first I thought it was cause by going over water checked and saw that it was time to change them. Since I like to squeeze every bit out that I can I went until now. They had 1mm or less, service limit is 3mm.

I'll change the oil tomorrow. The rear tire is just about done too but I think I can go a few hundred more on them.

I just ordered some new tires for the front and rear. I like to have an extra tire just in case the one on the bike gets mangled up. So I ordered different size from stock. I'm gonna try a 110/80-10 rear, it is just about the same diameter as stock and a 100/90-12 which will be about 3/4" larger in diameter then stock. I will measure stock size and these new sizes once they are mounted.
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