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Old 03-04-2014, 02:20 AM   #76
avir
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBinChe View Post
Have you ever replace the variator? They get grooved from wear of the belt and the belt tends to stay in that groove, it is hard for the belt to go past the groove. This is what is happening to mine now and I only have 24.5K miles, while you have 35K+ miles. The belt will groove the spot where it spends the most time in, in my case it is almost at the highest gearing. Also you using the OEM rollers or an aftermarket (w/different weights)? Heavier weights will make it harder too go uphill. In the US the stock rollers weight is 13grams. How about spark plug and the spark plug cap? Oil level? And lastly valves?
thanks for the reply

to the best of my knowledge everything on the scooter is stock.

there was an issue with the spark plug cap but in the end the garage left me with the original one.

plug and oil are fine.

will check variator. the thing is the scooter was in for a major service last month....
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:47 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by avir View Post
thanks for the reply

to the best of my knowledge everything on the scooter is stock.

there was an issue with the spark plug cap but in the end the garage left me with the original one.

plug and oil are fine.

will check variator. the thing is the scooter was in for a major service last month....
with variators most don't check the drive face only rollers and slide guide on the variator back plate, by the way, was the slide guide changed too? They should be changed when the rollers get changed.

I also had a worn spark plug cap that I replaced, it got ovalized and the fit became really loose where you can flick it off with one finger.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:44 PM   #78
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I would look at the basics from a grand perspective:
Compression, Spark, Fuel

Compression - could it be that the rings are worn and the engine is not as efficient anymore? Does it smoke or burn oil excessively? Did it have the power before or did it feel sluggish? A compression could be useful.

Strengthof the spark (need to be sure the source of the spark is has no excessive resistance, the wire is fresh and not excessive in resistance, and obviously the spark itself should have less than 7500 miles on it and be of proper heat rang and have the proper gap.

Fuel, does the fuel pump provide enough pressure? Does the injector well as it should? Are the fuel lines clear and not restricted? BTW, looks like Elite has no fuel filter??

Hopefully it's something simple like the variator plate. Otherwise I'd suggest eliminating things from this list. (valves being checked is also good advice). No check engine light, right? Does it start from the first crank?

Inoplanetyanin screwed with this post 03-05-2014 at 06:54 AM
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:46 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by DaBinChe View Post
that is funny that I have more or less that same tent....been using it for over 10 years...got it at wally world for $20.

I'm gonna change ALL the fluids including fork oil, make sure my valves are in spec before leaving and checking my drive. Will replace tires, belts, rollers, spark plug as they wear. Once I wear down my current rear tire I will start my prep and stop ridding it cause I want to start the trip with a fresh rear and a spare rear, so I'll know I have enough to get home with two new rear tires. I estimate round trip will be 8k miles which should be just about right with two new rear tires. As for the front I'll just bring a spare to change out the current front as it wears out. I'm confident that the non consumable parts will last at least 50k miles. So basically just brining consumable items only no other extra parts. Will carry a 2.5 gallon gas can on the floor board. Most every thing will fit in the trunk. Big bulky stuff will be strapped to the seat/rack.
Yeah, the tent is from Walmart and was also 20$. Had it for up to 5 yrs now. It works, that's all I have to say about that.
I hope you make it and the scoot is still in good shape before the trip. 2.5 gallons should be enough. Yeah, you can fit a lot of stuff under the seat. What tire will your be installing on the back? Will you go with your current off-size front or install oem?
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Old 03-04-2014, 11:58 PM   #80
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I'm going with the dunlop TT93 front that I currently am using 100/90-12 and the rear will hopefully be the bridgstone ML16 4.0-10 if they fit. Someone on here had mentioned that they do so I got one laying around and when the current kenda wears out I'll mount the ML16. From what I read on the ML16 they are mostly used on the honda elite150/250 and helix250 and last longer then other tires
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:32 PM   #81
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Hey, I was wondering if you've ever made it to Death Valley? It's an awesome place, whether you're on two wheels or not.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:01 AM   #82
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Hey, I was wondering if you've ever made it to Death Valley? It's an awesome place, whether you're on two wheels or not.
Was in DV back in 2007 on my old big bike during spring break and DAMN it was HOT. Told myself I'm never going back there again unless it was middle of winter.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...59#post5976859
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:24 PM   #83
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Okay, tried to get that variator nut off and it isn't budging. Using my 18v hammer drill, in the correct direction, unless it's a left hand thread, and in just about ran my battery down. So...any other ideas? I'm guessing I'm going to have to find a piece of wood to wedge in there and try it the old fashioned way, breaker bar and some muscle. Honda-San must have had their biggest guy on the wrench that day.
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:39 PM   #84
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Okay, tried to get that variator nut off and it isn't budging. Using my 18v hammer drill, in the correct direction, unless it's a left hand thread, and in just about ran my battery down. So...any other ideas? I'm guessing I'm going to have to find a piece of wood to wedge in there and try it the old fashioned way, breaker bar and some muscle. Honda-San must have had their biggest guy on the wrench that day.
should be lefty loosey. Charge your hammer drill, and set it on hammer. Hammer drills have thee settings: drill, screw and hammer. It was probably over tighten by the last person...also the variator nut is 80ft-lb tighten so your drill might not be strong enough. What you can do to prevent the crank from spinning is just wedge a piece of wood between top side of the outer face and the swing arm/case. Not too much just put it there so prevents the crank from spinning. This might not work, I've never tried it but since the outer face has teeth hopefully they will bite into the wood and stop spinning. If that doesn't work then you have to do the rope trick...put some rope in the spark plug hole so when the piston moves up the rope will hold it from moving
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:42 PM   #85
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I've just turned over 4K miles and I have noticed a rattling sound coming from the engine. At idle you can hear it in the muffler. It still gets up and goes all the way to 50, but this sound is worrying me a bit. Valves are in spec, just checked them at 3500 miles. Sounds sorta like marbles. I try and only take it up the road to get groceries right now, but hot weather is coming to these parts very soon. Any ideas?
Also if this is only happening when idling then it could be normal, the rollers aren't being pushed out by centrifugal force so they are just kinda rattling loose until the rpm is higher to push them out.
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:13 PM   #86
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So, I had to do the rope trick, finally got it off. I checked the rollers and they were fine, there were two with minor flat spots. So I cleaned it up, tho it wasn't that dirty to begin with. I changed the plug while I was in there, seems to run smoother.
Thanks for the advice, hopefully it all worked itself out. I'll keep you posted.
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:34 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by zuphilius View Post
So, I had to do the rope trick, finally got it off. I checked the rollers and they were fine, there were two with minor flat spots. So I cleaned it up, tho it wasn't that dirty to begin with. I changed the plug while I was in there, seems to run smoother.
Thanks for the advice, hopefully it all worked itself out. I'll keep you posted.
I think what you are hearing is normal rattling of the rollers. As the drive wears things get looser and you'll hear more rattling.
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:16 AM   #88
avir
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Originally Posted by Inoplanetyanin View Post
I would look at the basics from a grand perspective:
Compression, Spark, Fuel

Compression - could it be that the rings are worn and the engine is not as efficient anymore? Does it smoke or burn oil excessively? Did it have the power before or did it feel sluggish? A compression could be useful.

Strengthof the spark (need to be sure the source of the spark is has no excessive resistance, the wire is fresh and not excessive in resistance, and obviously the spark itself should have less than 7500 miles on it and be of proper heat rang and have the proper gap.

Fuel, does the fuel pump provide enough pressure? Does the injector well as it should? Are the fuel lines clear and not restricted? BTW, looks like Elite has no fuel filter??

Hopefully it's something simple like the variator plate. Otherwise I'd suggest eliminating things from this list. (valves being checked is also good advice). No check engine light, right? Does it start from the first crank?
no smoking. not even in the morning when cold starting.fires up on the first try every time. there was an issue with the spark plug cap.it was not replaced in the last service am wondering if that could be the problem. no check engine light coming on ever (except before starting and only for about 5 seconds) there is no fuel filter on the elite.

my bet is 1) spark plug cap bad and loose enough so when cold to cause problem. 2) wrong roller weights installed in last service. 3) not sure how to say it in english - drive sandels? (thats what they are called over here). maybe they are slipping up when cold?

dabinche - is that you with all the videos on you tube for the elite?
watched a few last night was very impressed!
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:48 AM   #89
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no smoking. not even in the morning when cold starting.fires up on the first try every time. there was an issue with the spark plug cap.it was not replaced in the last service am wondering if that could be the problem. no check engine light coming on ever (except before starting and only for about 5 seconds) there is no fuel filter on the elite.

my bet is 1) spark plug cap bad and loose enough so when cold to cause problem. 2) wrong roller weights installed in last service. 3) not sure how to say it in english - drive sandels? (thats what they are called over here). maybe they are slipping up when cold?

dabinche - is that you with all the videos on you tube for the elite?
watched a few last night was very impressed!
Yeah I also had the loose plug cap, it started to ovalized and can be flicked off with one finger. Replaced with an NGK cap and all is good.

Possible that the drive clutch is worn, I think the service limit is 2mm thick. But also double check the roller weights, stock is 13g, size 18mmx14mm.

Yeah those are my videos, my signature links to my youtube channel.
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:26 AM   #90
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Over 25k miles and just changed oil, checked the left side crank seal behind the variator and it was fine no oil. So pushing the seal back to where it was suppose to be stopped the oil seepage from an unseated seal caused by over filling the oil.

New variator/rollers/slide guides/belt was also installed. Man what a difference in smoothness of feel and sound! A big speed increase as well...Back story, so the stock size 90/90-12 front is not available in the US so I decided with a 100/90-12. When I went with the larger size front tire my speedometer read 3mph less then stock size...more recently before the new drive parts my speedo reading was maxing out at 46mph. With the new parts my speedo now reads 51mph max. So I lost 5mph from worn drive parts! More on this later.

With these results from now on I'm gonna change my belt at 10k mile and rollers/slide guides and variator at 20k miles. I don't really mind the slightly slower speeds but I don't want to slow traffic down (going slower then speed limit) cause I think it is inconsiderate...when I'm on a faster vehicle I expect people to do the speed limit if traffic conditions allow other wise I get pissed.

So now performance is better, not just top speed but also climbing. What happens with worn drive parts is that the motor revs higher at a given speed compared to new drive parts. So normally higher rev means more power output but in this case it revs over the peak power and into the downward slope of the power and torque curve. I can feel this difference in the engine speed relative to travel speed.

Back to speedometer reading. So on honda scoots the indicated speed compared to actual speed is pretty close. Most motorcycles have an optimistic reading of about 10% more or less. On other brand scooters the reading can be off by as much as 20%. On Honda scoots it tends to be about 5% optimistic. I think this holds true for the Elite110. With the stock size front tire it reads about 2-3mph fast at max speed. Now that I'm using a larger size tire the speedo reading is correct if not almost (within 1mph) correct at top speed. So I believe my new max speedometer indication of 51mph is more accurate compared to the stock reading of 53mph.

I'm pretty excited about this difference in speed with worn vs. new drive parts, didn't expect that much of a change. I was only expecting 2-3mph more. Now what I'm looking forward to is putting on a larger rear tire to increase the gearing a little more. At the rate of tire wear it looks like another 1k miles until the rear needs to be replaced.
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