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Old 03-15-2014, 10:40 AM   #91
DaBinChe OP
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
Oddometer: 796
A few hundred miles later and I changed the final drive oil, man that thing gets dirty and only in 5k miles. That oil gets changed every 5k.

Also re-gap the spark plug it was larger then spec so I closed it down to the smaller end of spec. Spark plugs normally wear down so the gap increases so when you put a new one in it should be gap at the tighter side of spec. Surprisingly the plug didn't look as lean as it did in the past, looked just about right.

Also found that I had a puncture so rope plug that up. Made a video of it so you can see it on my youtube channel, link is my signature.

And I overhauled the clutch, shoes are still good, Just took it apart and cleaned out the old belt dust crusty dirty grease and checked for wear. All was good and also made videos of that as well, again my signature is the link to my youtube channel.

Decided not to check the valves. I had checked them 5k miles ago and was what I settled in for valve check interval. Never and them go out of spec but did adjust the exhaust side a few times cause it was on the tight side of spec. Motor is running strong, starts up first time, and isn't making any noises so I'm not going to bother with the valve check. I won't check them until before I take off for the cannonball, which should be in another 3k miles.
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:13 PM   #92
DaBinChe OP
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Location: Santa Cruz Mtns.
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Just under 25.5k miles and the rear 100/90 tire needed to be replaced...man an under inflated tire wears out fast, 500miles sooner then anticipated. Put on a 110/80, my last one

So I have ran the scoot on the stock rear size 100/90-10 and 110/80-10 and have come to the conclusion that the 110/80 is much better. It handles better, last a little longer, has more cornering clearance all in due to the crown profile. The crown profile is flatter on the 110/80 and both have the same diameter. That flatter profile gives more usable meat towards the sides. Looking at the 100/90 the middle is bald but the sides are pretty new, while the 110/80 the sides is almost as worn as the middle. Have been using the Kenda K413 in both sizes.

Previously no matter what rear tire I used my tires only lasted ~3.5k until the wear indicator and ~4k till bald. This last time around because of the new commute route my rear only lasted 2.5k miles, was hoping for 3k but the previous mentioned puncture/under-inflation wore it out faster.

I also tried on a 4"x10" Bridgestone ML16 and it just barely fits. You might have to deflate it to mount the wheel on the scoot. There is about 1/4" of clearance from the case...the tire whiskers actually touch the case. Test rode it and was able to hit an indicated 54mph so got a 3mph increase. Take off and steep climbs is just a tad slower. So I really like this size because of the gain in top speed. From now on, once I finish with the kendas, I'm sticking with this tire/size. I hear this tire also last a lot longer, this size and tire is what is used on the old elite150/250 and also the Helix (but the wider size).

Since I was at it I also checked the valves and they were at spec.
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Old 03-22-2014, 06:58 AM   #93
TmaxSLO
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Hallo

I m new her, but I see that @DaBinChe is quite a expert.
Next to VFR1200X for city driving I use Honda lead 110. It is very good scooter for all what I need scooter (100% city use). But I have question about tyer. It is difficult to get good tyer in 90/90*12 dimension. Now I use Hiedenau K58 front and K61 rear, but I m looking for easily obtainable tyer. Did anyone make a experimet whit 120/70*12 front ?
In The extent of rolling tires, the difference is only 1%, but I dont know if they past on rims?

Thanks for help and sory for my eng

P.S. @DaBinChe whit Your help (videos on youtube) I make service (oil and air filther change)
Could You tell me what oil do You use for transmision?
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:23 AM   #94
DaBinChe OP
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Originally Posted by TmaxSLO View Post
Hallo

I m new her, but I see that @DaBinChe is quite a expert.
Next to VFR1200X for city driving I use Honda lead 110. It is very good scooter for all what I need scooter (100% city use). But I have question about tyer. It is difficult to get good tyer in 90/90*12 dimension. Now I use Hiedenau K58 front and K61 rear, but I m looking for easily obtainable tyer. Did anyone make a experimet whit 120/70*12 front ?
In The extent of rolling tires, the difference is only 1%, but I dont know if they past on rims?

Thanks for help and sory for my eng

P.S. @DaBinChe whit Your help (videos on youtube) I make service (oil and air filther change)
Could You tell me what oil do You use for transmision?
You can use a 10w-30, 10w-40, straight 30wt. motor oil or what I use a 75w-90 gear oil (has about the same viscosity as 10w-30/40).

the 120/70-12 is just too wide I think for the front rim. It'll have an irregular crown/profile and will handle funny. Not sure which area of world you are in, but hiedenau does make a 90/90-12 which is not imported to the USA so is available in Europe. In Asia, 90/90-12 is available cause I have seen other hondas with this same size tire. For the USA I'm running Dunlop TT93 100/90-12, which I actually like cause I think it make the speedometer more accurate and being larger it rolls over bumps and handles better.
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:32 PM   #95
Inoplanetyanin
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Originally Posted by DaBinChe View Post
A few hundred miles later and I changed the final drive oil, man that thing gets dirty and only in 5k miles. That oil gets changed every 5k.
That is strange. I've recently changed my gear oil and it was clear as the way it was when I put it in there about 7K miles ago.
I use WalMart's 75/90 gear oil. The first time I installed it with the original washer and it leaked, so I had to buy a new crush washer and refill the case. No leaks after that.

Are you sure your gear case vent hose/tube is sealed? Sounds like maybe some dust makes its way there contaminating and darkening your gear oil. Or the oil you use has a tendency to change color. Which brand and type do you use?
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:06 PM   #96
DaBinChe OP
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That is strange. I've recently changed my gear oil and it was clear as the way it was when I put it in there about 7K miles ago.
I use WalMart's 75/90 gear oil. The first time I installed it with the original washer and it leaked, so I had to buy a new crush washer and refill the case. No leaks after that.

Are you sure your gear case vent hose/tube is sealed? Sounds like maybe some dust makes its way there contaminating and darkening your gear oil. Or the oil you use has a tendency to change color. Which brand and type do you use?
I use walmart 75-90 synthetic gear oil. It just looked well used.
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:29 AM   #97
MAYRES
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rollerr deminsions nhx110

I was wondering if you know the width and weight of the rollers on the nhx 110 . Im gonna get some Dr. Pulleys Sliders and I don't know which ones to get? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Im going to get the bigger bridgestone mola ml16 you were talking about and so exactly what she can do with both of them. I too experience the top speed -f 48 regularly when its cold but 50 speedo reading when 70+ degrees out. I'm gonna clean the variator and stuff out like you were talking about. I really love all the info. Thanks. I really like the nhx110 its too bad theirs not many after parts though. All in all im happy with it.

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Old 04-04-2014, 02:10 PM   #98
fast1075
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Thumb Ml-16

Glad the Bridgestone worked out for you DaBinChe. It works very well on mine.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:01 PM   #99
DaBinChe OP
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Glad the Bridgestone worked out for you DaBinChe. It works very well on mine.
yeah thanks for that info...it really makes a difference that 3+mph more
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:07 PM   #100
DaBinChe OP
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Originally Posted by MAYRES View Post
I was wondering if you know the width and weight of the rollers on the nhx 110 . Im gonna get some Dr. Pulleys Sliders and I don't know which ones to get? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Im going to get the bigger bridgestone mola ml16 you were talking about and so exactly what she can do with both of them. I too experience the top speed -f 48 regularly when its cold but 50 speedo reading when 70+ degrees out. I'm gonna clean the variator and stuff out like you were talking about. I really love all the info. Thanks. I really like the nhx110 its too bad theirs not many after parts though. All in all im happy with it.
Can't remember exactly the size, but think it is 18mm X 14mm. I might have that info somewhere on this thread, you just have to double check. The weight is 13grams. I thought of going with the dr. pulley sliders as well but love the fact that my rollers lasted 25k+ miles and they are only about $10, can't beat that.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:18 PM   #101
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At a little over 10K miles, I took the variator cover off, loosened the drive plate nut (using the electric impact from harbor freight $40) and observed the rollers being round and within spec (17.8x mm).
There wasn't too much belt dust but I cleaned everything nevertheless.
Did not test ride it yet. I hope the shudder will go away. I didn't take off the clutch bell.
To tighten the nut to 80 ft/lb, my father jammed a big screwdriver between the toothed gear and the bottom of the case.

Dabinche, how much did you pay for the belt, rollers, and drive plates?

Inoplanetyanin screwed with this post 04-06-2014 at 12:26 AM
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:27 AM   #102
DaBinChe OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inoplanetyanin View Post
At a little over 10K miles, I took the variator cover off, loosened the drive plate nut (using the electric impact from harbor freight $40) and observed the rollers being round and within spec (17.8x mm).
There wasn't too much belt dust but I cleaned everything nevertheless.
Did not test ride it yet. I hope the shudder will go away. I didn't take off the clutch belt.
To tighten the nut to 80 ft/lb, my father jammed a big screwdriver between the toothed gear and the bottom of the case.

Dabinche, how much did you pay for the belt, rollers, and drive plates?
Currently I get my OE Honda parts from MetricPartsOutlet.com

As for the drive parts what I'm gonna do from now on is belt at 10k and rollers, plate slider guides, and variator at 20k. This is for my riding style, your could be different.

Which HF impact did you get? Same as the one I have on my youtube video with the 12v cigarette plug? What ever the case you can use the impact to put on the nut too but you'll have to get a feel for it first to gain experience on how much torque it puts out.
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Old 04-06-2014, 03:39 AM   #103
avir
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Bluhduh pully

ok - I went to the garage to have my lead tended to and the mechanic told me that the pully is shot and needs to be replaced.

whats a pully if i may ask? and what does it do?

he wants about $170 to replace
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:45 AM   #104
DaBinChe OP
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ok - I went to the garage to have my lead tended to and the mechanic told me that the pully is shot and needs to be replaced.

whats a pully if i may ask? and what does it do?

he wants about $170 to replace
First off, how many miles? Miles and riding conditions will determine how much wear there will be.

A CVT works using two pulleys front and rear...check out the video on the first page it has a very good inner workings of the NHX110. Then click on my signature and watch my youtube videos of the drive.
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:23 PM   #105
avir
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milage

57,650 kilometers=36,031miles
had the whole clutch replaced at 43,000 kilometers
it still runs ok except going up a hill with a passenger or going up hill alone from start. if i build up speed before the hill it rides ok only if i am alone.
thing is the lead is only worth about $400 in its current condition.
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