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Old 12-27-2013, 09:37 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twotaildog View Post
I hadn't heard about the AHRMA event. When & where is it? Is it open to all? I couldn't find it on the website.

I suppose the sprocket side Tommy bar may have been to facilitate quick chain and sprocket maintenance without the need to carry a wrench. I guess I'll start looking for a QD hub.

I see that Classic Dirt Bike is available for iPad. Is that in issue 29?

Thanks
Here is a link to next October's event.

http://dev.ahrma.org/?page_id=1972

The ISDT RR is different, so I don't know if you must be an AHRMA member to ride. There are contacts at the bottom of the page.

Issue 29 is what you are looking for.
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Old 12-27-2013, 02:57 PM   #47
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If you're looking for an airbottle maybe try the paintball crowd?
http://www.paintballdirect.co.uk/bottles.html
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:36 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Twotaildog View Post
where'd you find that one?


Mini argon bottle for a mig set up.

Scuba uses the same sizes.
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Old 12-28-2013, 05:36 AM   #49
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OK. It'll get an air bottle then. Feked notified me that my exhaust pipe is being packed for it's journey across the pond. I'm clearing a spot in the basement, so that I don't have to work in the cold garage.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:24 AM   #50
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I thought I'd pass this link on, it's an account of the 1964 ISDT as told by Dave Ekins. It's a good read. It confirms the use of QD rear wheels on the American team's Triumphs. It says that the muffler was intentionally placed in front of the rear axle as we discussed earlier. It also implies that the reason for the low pipe was a concern that the original high pipe would bend the left shock when the bike is laid over. It mentions that they were disappointed in the '64 front end since it had 2" less travel than the previous year, and a heavy hub, but it didn't say that any changes were made to remedy this. I'm not sure what, if any, changes would have been allowed under the rules. I'm going to stick with my '69 front end. Here's the link:

http://selvedgeyard.com/2013/11/08/t...by-dave-ekins/

Here is an interesting anecdote from the account, illustrating the classic Yankee ingenuity. Makes me wonder if I should put an axe cut in my new exhaust when it arrives. Dave Ekin's words: "Well I made it to the day’s end, but my favorite actor didn’t and neither did my big brother. McQueen, whose reflexes were showing signs of fatigue parted company with his Triumph in a pile of rocks. He scrambled back on his bike in an attempt to continue, but found he was down about twenty horsepower. The bash through the rocks had closed his exhaust pipe. Now luckily there were some woodcutters nearby and Steve, being a resourceful chap, borrowed an ax and vented his exhaust pipe."

Enjoy.
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:36 PM   #51
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That was a great read, thanks for posting. I spent an hour and a half or so by the time I chased all the links.
McQueen pictures I hadn't see.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:31 AM   #52
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If there's still any interest here, I would like to generate some discussion on which muffler to use on the 1964 ISDT Tribute Bike. Obviously, whichever one I start with will have to have the kickstarter clearance dent modification installed on it. Based on Hughie Hancox's book (a fun read btw), the the American import bikes used smaller louder mufflers, I think he said they were made by Burgess, and the British bikes had longer ones. A Google search of images seems to support that.

Here is the British muffler:



And here is the American one, like my bike currently has:



So I was originally thinking that I would use the shorter Burgess muffler, since the goal is not to block the rear axle. But when I look at pictures of the McQueen bike, it seems like the inlet is offset from the center, whereas both the British and the Burgess style mufflers shown above have concentric inlets. Here are some pictures of the muffler on the McQueen bike:





You can see that the inlet appears to be offset towards the bottom of the muffler. It almost looks like they used a muffler from 1967/8 TR6C, but how could they use a 1967 muffler in 1964? Here is a picture of the 1967/8 TR6C mufflers, which have offset inlets:



When I look at the 1964 high pipes, that were used on the 1964 TR6C or SC, it appears that their inlet MAY of been offset to the inside, in which case they could have rotated it a bit on the ISDT bike so that it is offset towards the bottom. Here is a picture, but I can't tell for sure if it is or isn't offset:



So I'm thinking I start with a right side muffler from a 1964/65/66 high pipe, but I'm wondering if anyone can confirm whether the inlet of the muffler is offset from center, and whether they are short enough to fit ahead of the axle, if the outlet end is bobbed. Or, if anyone has any other suggestions on the subject.

Thanks...
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Twotaildog screwed with this post 01-04-2014 at 07:39 AM
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:05 AM   #53
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The muffler on the McQueen bike looks like a 500 twin part. The body was shorter and had an offset inlet.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:40 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike in idaho View Post
The muffler on the McQueen bike looks like a 500 twin part. The body was shorter and had an offset inlet.
By golly, I believe you're right! Thanks Mike.

Anybody know someone with one Triumph 500 muffler to sell?

I'll probably have to buy a set.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:10 AM   #55
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Small progress today. Signed up for the Britbike forum as someone suggested. Waiting for the administrator to approve my application. Hoping someone on there can lead me to a 500 muffler and possibly a QD hub. Got on the DMV website and ordered a plate that says "64 ISDT." Other than that, I'm working on organizing a basement workshop, since I don't yet have a heated garage in my current location. Almost done with that, then I can move in the tools and bike. Temps in the single digits here today. Haven't yet received the exhaust pipe from Feked.com. Digging through my Box-O-Bars for a suitable handlebar.
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:17 PM   #56
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The new pipe came in from Feked.com:



The chrome looks OK, but the brazing is a little rough where the larger diameter end meets the rest of the pipe. Definitely not equal to the quality of the original Triumph pipes. It was wrapped and packed well enough, no shipping damage. It came with a clamp for the Y-pipe, but no bolt for the clamp.



I finished the basement workshop. Ever since I moved out here to the country, I don't have a heated garage anymore, and I don't have my three-rail hydraulic lift out here, so over the last few days I converted the storage room off of the furnace room to a winter work shop. I finished the walls, built some shelves, and the step-son helped me move some equipment in yesterday, as well as the bike. It's a little tight but it will do for one bike at a time, at least until I get my big shop built. Here are some 'before' pictures in the basement shop:







Thanks for watching, more to come.

Kevin
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Old 01-11-2014, 06:55 AM   #57
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Here is a picture of the braze joint on the new pipe as compared to the original equipment:



The transition on the outside original pipe is so smooth that, at initial glance, it appears to just be a single piece of pipe that was expanded. But when you look inside the pipe you can see that it is fabricated from two pieces joined together, there's enough carbon that I can't tell if it's a weld joint or a braze, but there is a definite seam. They just did a really nice job of grinding and finishing the joint on the outside to make a smooth transition. In the new pipe there is a definite braze joint on the inside, and not much time was taken to smooth the outside of the joint prior to chrome plating. At this point I'm telling myself that the visible braze joint gives it a fabricated appearance, that the 1964 ISDT bikes would have had.



Here are some pictures of the new pipe installed:





When I installed the pipes I noticed that the pipe stubs, which are threaded into to heads and which the exhaust pipes slip over, were not torqued tight. The threads seemed to work fine and the stubs were not loose or wobbly in the ports, it just seems like they had not been tightened down like they should have been. I was able to thread them out by hand. I decided that I'm going to order some new stubs and go ahead and replace them while I'm at it.

I ordered a right side silencer for a 500 from Classic Bike Parts in the UK. They were the only ones I found that would sell me a single silencer rather than a set. Based on the pictures, I expect that I'll have to shorten the pipe when I fit the silencer, but that remains to be seen.

More later.
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KTM 640 ADV - Guzzi Centauro - Husky TE510 - other stuff
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Old 01-12-2014, 01:42 PM   #58
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nice project, normally with a survivor bike I'd be in the camp that says let it be and go get a junker for a project but given it sounds like the bike started out a bit bastardized, hey have at it. Curious what lift is that you have?
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:04 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by DCrider View Post
nice project, normally with a survivor bike I'd be in the camp that says let it be and go get a junker for a project but given it sounds like the bike started out a bit bastardized, hey have at it. Curious what lift is that you have?
Yes, the bike is turning out to be quite a hodgepodge. I spent some time this morning trying to figure out what it's made of. I'll try to put up a post about it tomorrow. It's one of those bikes that probably doesn't have much of a chance of ever being like it originally was.

I'm not sure if you're asking about the lift in the pictures, or the three rail hydraulic lift I mentioned in an earlier post. The three rail lift I bought on ebay years ago, I don't think they make them anymore. It's like one post from a two post car lift that's fitted with three motorcycle rails, if you can imagine that. It looks like it would tip over, but it's bolted down with 3/4" lag bolts, so it doesn't. The lift in the pictures above I got from Amazon, here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/dp/B0049J1E...%40%26!Ic!%3F(
They're only about $180.00, but the shipping is almost as much. I think they're also selling them on ebay. I usually try to avoid that kind of Chinese made crap, but it was the only one I found that is narrow enough to be practical in this small shop. so far it works OK, but I didn't even try the wheel clamp that came with it because there's no way I can balance the bike and tighten that clamp at the same time. Even if I could I don't think their little clamp could hold the bike up. I ordered one of those self clamping wheel chocks for trailers, drilled some holes in the deck of the lift, and bolted it in place of the clamp.
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KTM 640 ADV - Guzzi Centauro - Husky TE510 - other stuff
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:18 AM   #60
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As I said, I'm learning that this bike is a bit of a hodgepodge of parts from different years and sources, which have been masterfully joined together to make a decent ride. Yesterday I was fiddling with the left side-cover. Even though the bike is a 1964 model (based on the matching frame and engine numbers) it had a later style side cover with no switches. A 1964 model would have had the ignition and light switches on the left side-cover, for later models the ignition switch was move to the left headlight ear and the light switch, I believe, was on the headlight shell. When the PO got the bike, it had all 1969 model tin work on it, as well as the 1969 front end. In fact it had been advertised as a 1969 TR6, even though the title says 1964. Apparently, it has quite a history. Here is a picture of the left side cover as I got it:



So, for some reason, I thought I could just remove the newer model side-cover and replace it with the correct earlier model one. I would, of course, also have to install the switches and rectify the wiring as needed. I'm not sure why I thought it would be that simple when nothing ever has been before. There is no easy way the 1964 model left side cover will fit on this bike. The only thing I can conclude is that the rear frame section, which bolts on to the main frame loop, is also from a 1969 model. I can't confirm this until my parts book comes in (I thought I had one but I don't) so if any of you Triumph experts out there can confirm, please comment. It would be interesting to know the story on this bike. Apparently someone took the main frame and engine from a 1964 and replaced everything else (front end, back end, seat, tank, etc.) with parts from a 1969. Perhaps the '64 had been chopped, with a bolt on hardtail and extended forks, and someone de-chopped it with parts from a '69. We'll probably never know. The good news is, the PO sorted the bike out mechanically, and put a proper '64 tank on it.

Anyway, what to do about the side cover, because I definitely want the switches on the side, a la 1964. Here is a picture of the side cover that came on it, showing the mounting points. It has two grommetted holes on the rear, which slide onto pins on the frame, and one bolt hole on the upper left:



This picture shows the two pins that the grommetted holes slide over, and you can also see the threaded hole for the side cover bolt, just above the air cleaner:



Below is a picture of the 1964 style side cover. You can see the holes for the switches at the front of it. It has only one grommet hole to the rear and one on the bottom, but no hole for the upper pin on my frame. In fact, the upper pin on my frame would interfere with installation of the '64 side cover. Based on a picture in the workshop manual, there would have been a bolt on bracket with a pin for the bottom grommet to slide over. As you can see, the '64 side cover also has two mounting tabs on the top of it. I assume there would have been corresponding tabs on the '64 frame or battery box, my bike doesn't have any. There's also a mounting tab on the lower part of the front of it, that doesn't show in the picture.



Fitting a 1964 left side cover to this later model rear sub-frame would be possible, with some fabrication. I could easily drill the upper grommet hole on the back of it. The upper tabs would have to be re-bent because they interfere with the existing battery box, then once they are re-bent I could weld some studs to the battery box for them to mount to. Then I could fabricate or find mounting brackets for the bottom front mounting point and the bottom grommet.

Option two would be to use the existing newer model side cover, modify it with hammer and drill to accept the key switch and light switch, repaint, and reinstall. This would probably be easier and cleaner than option 1.

There is a third option. Below is a picture of the coolest thing I ever bought on ebay. Apparently I'm the only one who thinks so, because no one else was bidding on it. It's a one-of-a-kind hand made cast aluminum left side cover. I'm not sure what year model it was made to fit, but it could be made to fit my bike also, with some minor fabrication. The guy I bought it from didn't have any information on the history of it, he also bought it on ebay several years before.



As you can see it has the holes for the light and key switches. It has two mounting tabs on the top, the holes line up with the battery box supports on my bike. It does not have any holes to the rear to correspond with the pins on my frame. As you can also see it has a mounting tab on the lower front that lines up with a small bolt on the engine, just above the transmission.

The rear battery box support on my bike had a stud welded to the bottom of it that lines up with one of the mounting holes on the top of the cast side cover. The front battery box support doesn't have one, but it would be an easy job to weld one to it. Here is a picture:



In order to use the cast side cover I would also have to remove (cut) the mounting pins from my rear sub-frame. My other concern is with the bolting it directly to the engine. I feel like I would have to at least rubber mount it some how, I would be interested in any opinions on this. The other point of discussion, of course, is that, as cool as it is, the cast side cover does not look original, nor does it look like the McQueen/Ekins bikes. If I use it I would probably look for someone to paint some fancy lettering on it that says something like '1964 ISDT American Team, McQueen, Ekins, Ekins, Coleman' or somesuch BS like that.

Enough blah blah for today, looking for tires and shocks. As for the side cover, I'm leaning towards option 3, but as always any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

Kevin
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1964 Triumph TR6 - 50 year ISDT Tribute
1969 BMW R60US
KTM 640 ADV - Guzzi Centauro - Husky TE510 - other stuff
...sweet dreams and fine machines in pieces on the ground...
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