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Old 01-01-2014, 05:02 PM   #16
buddoggin
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I'm confused. I'm getting ready to purchase the evo 1 kit myself. I already have a GPR damper on my bike. Will it not work? Do I have to buy new fork clamps also??? Like I said, I'm confused.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:14 PM   #17
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Parts Inventory ... Tank Kit.

So before digging into this, (and because I'm a bit OCD/anal), I wanted to ensure I had everything in the kit.

So I laid everything out, and a few questions emerged ...









So, in terms of the part #s affected ...

5) Missing 4 x washers (no biggie)
22) this should be a "brass Y connector" - mine is a T, as shown below. Is this a typo, or am I missing something ...



24) Missing 1 spring clip (also not a biggie)
30) Missing the 2 x 7/16" washers
31) Grub screws - where do these go?
21& 32) Missing plastic T & 3 x hose. These appear to be for the tank breather hose setup - this is a significant oversight.
37) Where are the collar bushings? Missing, or installed somewhere I can't see?
40) I have 2 x M6 x 70 bolts, not 2 x M6 x 80 bolts. Need these for sure.



41) Missing 3 x M6 x 15 bolts ...
43) Missing orange 8 x 2 O ring - if that's the one that's supposed to seal part #42 angle connector, it's not there. The angle connector is pre-installed, but with no O-ring.

Separate from the missing parts, I'm wondering about the tank filler mouths. The finishing seems very rough/jagged. Is this normal? I know I theoretically could take the Dremel and finish it nicer, but a) I don't want to compromise the tank, and b) I'm loathe to fix something that I think could well have been done at the source.





Again, not wanting to throw the good folks at RR under the bus - I just am looking for some clarification in case I've missed something prior to digging into this feet first.

Also, this build journal may hopefully help others - though I'm sure most are smarter at this than I am ... :)

Cheers,

CM
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:58 AM   #18
buddoggin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
So before digging into this, (and because I'm a bit OCD/anal), I wanted to ensure I had everything in the kit.

So I laid everything out, and a few questions emerged ...









So, in terms of the part #s affected ...

5) Missing 4 x washers (no biggie)
22) this should be a "brass Y connector" - mine is a T, as shown below. Is this a typo, or am I missing something ...



24) Missing 1 spring clip (also not a biggie)
30) Missing the 2 x 7/16" washers
31) Grub screws - where do these go?
21& 32) Missing plastic T & 3 x hose. These appear to be for the tank breather hose setup - this is a significant oversight.
37) Where are the collar bushings? Missing, or installed somewhere I can't see?
40) I have 2 x M6 x 70 bolts, not 2 x M6 x 80 bolts. Need these for sure.



41) Missing 3 x M6 x 15 bolts ...
43) Missing orange 8 x 2 O ring - if that's the one that's supposed to seal part #42 angle connector, it's not there. The angle connector is pre-installed, but with no O-ring.

Separate from the missing parts, I'm wondering about the tank filler mouths. The finishing seems very rough/jagged. Is this normal? I know I theoretically could take the Dremel and finish it nicer, but a) I don't want to compromise the tank, and b) I'm loathe to fix something that I think could well have been done at the source.





Again, not wanting to throw the good folks at RR under the bus - I just am looking for some clarification in case I've missed something prior to digging into this feet first.

Also, this build journal may hopefully help others - though I'm sure most are smarter at this than I am ... :)

Cheers,

CM
It's helping me. $1000 and a bunch of missing parts... and those tanks??? Wow.... I was going to do this but I'm out!!!
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:05 AM   #19
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Cry

Quote:
Originally Posted by buddoggin View Post
It's helping me. $1000 and a bunch of missing parts... and those tanks??? Wow.... I was going to do this but I'm out!!!
At least i would write a letter or fax / email and ask some questions....., and than depends on the answers.......what to do !!!
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:13 AM   #20
buddoggin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by italrally View Post
At least i would write a letter or fax / email and ask some questions....., and than depends on the answers.......what to do !!!
I've already sent them a question last week... I have yet to receive a response. I also downloaded the installation instructions. Lacking in detail is all I can say. It wouldn't be bad if I could ask them for help, but if it takes a week to get a response, or if I get none at all I'm kinda screwed.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:00 AM   #21
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That was prompt service - thanks RR!

My last post was right before I went to bed. When I woke up 6 hours later, I had both an acknowledgement from Liz that they had received my query (I had emailed them the link) as well as James' reply, which for the purpose of those considering the build, I believe would help to see.

He writes
The M5 washer BZP you state only 4 are there, the other 4 are on the M5
x 12 bolts on the coil part of the coil and rectifier bracket.

One of the 9-13mm spring clips has been upgraded to the fuel pipe clamp
with the fuel adaptor.

7/16th washers are in the picture with the grub screws, and the
intrusions state what they are for.

The plastic 'T' was for the breather pipes, now the tank cap breathers
have replaced this.

Collar bushing, these can be found on the exploded diagram. part 37,
there on in the rubbers on the side panel plates.

M6 x 15, one can be found in the M10 SAS mount, pictured, and the other
2 are holding the rectifier bracket to the coil bracket.

The orange o'ring is on the angle connector, it is pre assembled and is
not visible. this can be seen on the diagram.

As for the bolts being to short, I apologise and have sent some out today.



So at least insofar as my "missing" bits, they're all but resolved (save for the 2 x 80 mm bolts).

I hope they'll reply to the finish of the tank - really the neck filler area I pointed to - the rest of the tank looks pretty good to me.

Just a comment regarding response time - for any queries/delays (and there were a couple) that came up, RR was SUPERBLY quick to address them - overnight on most, if not all.

For what I understand to me a relatively small operation, this has been excellent by my standards. I'm not always the most gracious customer when delays/mistakes arise - and thus far, in my view, the "customer service" experience with RR has been everything I'd expect. Even factoring in that I'm dealing from North America with a business in the UK - time and distance notwithstanding, it has been really good.

Finally, RR did mention that they'd be shut down from right before Christmas to right after New Year - can't recall the exact dates now. That was right on their site - hence why I ordered all my stuff before their close-down period.

Cheers,

CM
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:13 AM   #22
buddoggin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
My last post was right before I went to bed. When I woke up 6 hours later, I had both an acknowledgement from Liz that they had received my query (I had emailed them the link) as well as James' reply, which for the purpose of those considering the build, I believe would help to see.

He writes
The M5 washer BZP you state only 4 are there, the other 4 are on the M5
x 12 bolts on the coil part of the coil and rectifier bracket.

One of the 9-13mm spring clips has been upgraded to the fuel pipe clamp
with the fuel adaptor.

7/16th washers are in the picture with the grub screws, and the
intrusions state what they are for.

The plastic 'T' was for the breather pipes, now the tank cap breathers
have replaced this.

Collar bushing, these can be found on the exploded diagram. part 37,
there on in the rubbers on the side panel plates.

M6 x 15, one can be found in the M10 SAS mount, pictured, and the other
2 are holding the rectifier bracket to the coil bracket.

The orange o'ring is on the angle connector, it is pre assembled and is
not visible. this can be seen on the diagram.

As for the bolts being to short, I apologise and have sent some out today.



So at least insofar as my "missing" bits, they're all but resolved (save for the 2 x 80 mm bolts).

I hope they'll reply to the finish of the tank - really the neck filler area I pointed to - the rest of the tank looks pretty good to me.

Just a comment regarding response time - for any queries/delays (and there were a couple) that came up, RR was SUPERBLY quick to address them - overnight on most, if not all.

For what I understand to me a relatively small operation, this has been excellent by my standards. I'm not always the most gracious customer when delays/mistakes arise - and thus far, in my view, the "customer service" experience with RR has been everything I'd expect. Even factoring in that I'm dealing from North America with a business in the UK - time and distance notwithstanding, it has been really good.

Finally, RR did mention that they'd be shut down from right before Christmas to right after New Year - can't recall the exact dates now. That was right on their site - hence why I ordered all my stuff before their close-down period.

Cheers,

CM
As long as your happy I guess that's all that matters. I just expect more when spending big bucks.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:01 AM   #23
buddoggin
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BTW, this is a good thread and please keep posting! I may end up taking the plunge yet.... depending on how it goes for you... lol
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:41 AM   #24
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Small update on tanks from RR

This morning, from James at RR:

Hello,

That is usual for the finish of the tanks, this is because the tanks are
low volume rotational moulded. We do not advise trimming this area as you may damage the tank. The selling surface is the top edge and that looks fine.

Regards

James

Working as I do in new industrial product development, including products with blow-moulding, I'm struggling to see this as acceptable. I spend most of my work days figuring out production cost/pricing models, so I don't need anyone explaining the low volume nature of this product.

Simply that in stark contrast to their billet / machined products (the tank mounts, fuel pump adapter, etc.) which look absolutely FIRST CLASS - the plastic tanks are a bit of a let-down. MY past experience with Clarke and IMS tanks gives me a further point of reference regarding moulded tank products - but that's all I'll say on the matter.

Not much time last night to do any serious work - just began stripping the bike, including draining the tank removing the fuel pump. I'm awaiting both the replacement tank bolts from RR, as well as the submount for the Scotts damper - so no big updates for a few more days.



Can't wait to start this build in earnest!

CM
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:53 AM   #25
buddoggin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
This morning, from James at RR:

Hello,

That is usual for the finish of the tanks, this is because the tanks are
low volume rotational moulded. We do not advise trimming this area as you may damage the tank. The selling surface is the top edge and that looks fine.

Regards

James

Working as I do in new industrial product development, including products with blow-moulding, I'm struggling to see this as acceptable. I spend most of my work days figuring out production cost/pricing models, so I don't need anyone explaining the low volume nature of this product.

Simply that in stark contrast to their billet / machined products (the tank mounts, fuel pump adapter, etc.) which look absolutely FIRST CLASS - the plastic tanks are a bit of a let-down. MY past experience with Clarke and IMS tanks gives me a further point of reference regarding moulded tank products - but that's all I'll say on the matter.

Not much time last night to do any serious work - just began stripping the bike, including draining the tank removing the fuel pump. I'm awaiting both the replacement tank bolts from RR, as well as the submount for the Scotts damper - so no big updates for a few more days.



Can't wait to start this build in earnest!

CM
Wow!!! I can't believe they would not offer to replace those tanks. It's like "Oh yea, those kind of suck... Sorry about that. Have a nice day!"

I could see it if they were cheap tanks... They are not cheap.
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:05 AM   #26
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Still awaiting the M80 bolts - no tracking number, no idea ... sigh ... looks like I'll have to just buy them from a local fastener supplier. Grrr.

Anyway - had an hour or so to putter. The BRP submount arrived, so began dismounting bars and controls. Piece of cake.

Got the airbox off. What a pain to take off. I shudder to think of how much fun it'll be to put back on. I had flashbacks of the DRZ-400 airbox experience, where to reconnect I felt like I needed toothpick-sized fingers, yet with herculean strength.

Some questions for the KTM wizards:

1) any tips for making the reconnect of the airbox to intake somewhat straight forward?




2) Since it's already nice and exposed, anything that would be worth checking? Mileage is 7000k ...




Things I'm planning on doing are

a) a good surface clean - PO had a lot of dust in there.
b) tidy/cover up the wiring - some exposed connections here and there
c) the actual RR-related rewiring (of course!)

More in a few days ...

CM
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
b) tidy/cover up the wiring - some exposed connections here and there
There's one wire that is underseat that goes over one of the trellis bars and gets pinched- that one you want to re-route if it is being pinched on your bike. Photos somewhere in the WUNDERFEST thread...
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:55 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gen View Post
There's one wire that is underseat that goes over one of the trellis bars and gets pinched- that one you want to re-route if it is being pinched on your bike. Photos somewhere in the WUNDERFEST thread...
Thanks gen - I seem to recall something too about that - will check it out.

Today all the time I had was to do a bit cleaning off of dust and inspecting various connections. With the airbox off, I checked and cleaned the air filter again - all good. But then, I noticed some black dust on the mouth of the airbox (where it connects into the intake) - wondering if this is considered "dirty" or not. That's one swipe on a brand new white latex glove, and if you see closely down the mouth of the airbox mouth/adapter, you see the swipe of dirt.



I recall reading earlier in the main 690 wunderfest thread about some folks who had problems with airboxes letting in unfiltered air. Is this considered dirty, or within normal?

Lastly, when I cleaned the inside/outside of the airbox, and was about to put everything back together, the LH airbox cover/snorkel screw felt like it was about to strip. When I tried backing out the screw, and after much fiddling, the nutsert came out with the screw.




Good news, is once I reinserted the screw in the nutsert, the threads were fine - but the bad news is I still need to get that nutsert back into the airbox. Any ideas on how to get that to stay in? I thought about contact cement / epoxy, but since it's hollow, it would simply flow back up into the inside/threaded area.

Thanks.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:22 PM   #29
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Nutsert Repairs

Having 2 KTM's and having had similar minor issues like the nutserts. I have found mixing a small amount of JB Weld and applying it with a toothpick to both the hole and the nut, works well.
Use a little oil on the bolt/screw, thread it into the nutsert and them apply the JB Weld and insert it into the airbox. Once it is in there, back the screw out. You may have to hold the nut with a pliers. This will keep you from freezing the screw in the nut. You can always go back and clean the threads with a tap, if necessary.
Hope that helps
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Old 01-19-2014, 12:05 AM   #30
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Thanks Vabuckeroo,

Did exactly that - adding only some Never Seez to the bolt - that one's sorted now.

Pushed on a bit further today - Rectifier and coil brackets on and everything reconnected .... these parts are gorgeous in quality!



Then added in the tank supports - equally beautiful quality.

A question around the breather tank. Do I have this on right? It squares with the instructions, and looking at the geometry of the truss, this looks about right...



Why I ask is when I mounted up the tank, there was contact against the tank in two places - one along a raised ridge on the frame clamp (where my index finger is pointing) and that sharp nub on the elbow of the angle connector (where my middle finger is pointing). I've tried rotating the bracket inward, by there is still contact. I'd rather avoid sharp pointy creases and poky spikes touching a plastic tank, no?

Will take a few days off and return back - hopefully with tanks mounted and plumbed after the next update.

I apologize for the very slow pace of this build thread - likely boring the dickens out of most of you. But at an hour or so available each night, that's jus the pace I'm at. It's being fun, and am learning lots - hopefully anyone in the future contemplating the EVO 1 will find some utility in this.

Regards,

CM
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