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Old 01-21-2014, 04:32 PM   #31
Yellow Pig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadius_maximus View Post
Thanks gen - I seem to recall something too about that - will check it out.

Today all the time I had was to do a bit cleaning off of dust and inspecting various connections. With the airbox off, I checked and cleaned the air filter again - all good. But then, I noticed some black dust on the mouth of the airbox (where it connects into the intake) - wondering if this is considered "dirty" or not. That's one swipe on a brand new white latex glove, and if you see closely down the mouth of the airbox mouth/adapter, you see the swipe of dirt.



I recall reading earlier in the main 690 wunderfest thread about some folks who had problems with airboxes letting in unfiltered air. Is this considered dirty, or within normal?

Lastly, when I cleaned the inside/outside of the airbox, and was about to put everything back together, the LH airbox cover/snorkel screw felt like it was about to strip. When I tried backing out the screw, and after much fiddling, the nutsert came out with the screw.




Good news, is once I reinserted the screw in the nutsert, the threads were fine - but the bad news is I still need to get that nutsert back into the airbox. Any ideas on how to get that to stay in? I thought about contact cement / epoxy, but since it's hollow, it would simply flow back up into the inside/threaded area.

Thanks.

Here is my fix for that:

I had the inserts in my airbox start to pull out so I fixed the problem by adding a bolt and washer from the inside and now use a nut and washer on the top side.

I also added some soft weather stripping to keep dust from getting into the airbox between the box and the filter.

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Old 01-21-2014, 04:46 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
Here is my fix for that:

I had the inserts in my airbox start to pull out so I fixed the problem by adding a bolt and washer from the inside and now use a nut and washer on the top side.

I also added some soft weather stripping to keep dust from getting into the airbox between the box and the filter.
Great couple of tricks there, Pig - thanks!!
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Old 01-21-2014, 06:45 PM   #33
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My pleasure!
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:45 AM   #34
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OK .... build continues.

So I'm taking a detour from the tank build for a bit. They just need to mounted, plumbed together with the rear, and do the fuel pump bracket bit. While the airbox is off, I figured now would be a good time for the Scotts Damper and the headstock/radiator areas of the fairing build.

Now as you’ll recall from earlier in the thread, I asked about which Scotts submounts would work with the RR system. Researching this has enabled me to suggest two SMART ways of doing this (yes, there’s likely others):

1) Use RR’s submount and riser – and their tower pin. Advantage is you’ll know it works clean out of the box. Disadvantage is it’s an expensive way to get a submount and a riser set. Plus at the time I ordered the kit, they were out of both items, though I think they’re back in stock.
2) Use the BRP system – including their tower pin. Advantages is their ever-so-clever rubber-mounted submount-cum-risers setup – great value for the mone. Disadvantage (and I believe it is a minor one) is that as Yellow Pig points out, you have only do some simple ovaling out of the BRP bracket that holds the tower pin.

What I did? Well since I had already mistaken committed to $90 worth of RR damper tower kit – coupled with my earlier disclaimer of being mildly retarded, I chose the NOT-SMART way of doing this – and blended the two systems. That means I bought only the BRP submount ($180) not the whole system ($300). So my outlay was at $180+90 = $270 to mount the damper.

So mounting up the BRP submount meant that the tower sat up too high to enable the clearance that the Scotts arm needs. That’s why you don’t mix parts – duh! So carefully cutting the tower down approx. 10 mm – still left me a good 30 mm worth of pin down in the tower (manual says you need min 20 mm) and a better clearance above and below where the pin engages the damper arm. Also, the result of mixing the parts meant that the flat RR arm (part of that RR damper kit) didn't sit right in relation to the pin. (sorry no "before" picture). So after the hassle of taking off the OEM Scotts damper arm (with the attendant few scratches on the underside of the damper) I had to put it back on - as you'll see the stepped shape of the OEM arm in the third photo below.










Success. Of sorts.

Nevertheless, with hindsight, and to anyone considering this build, I’d recommend the BRP system (the $300 w/o the damper) with all the tower, etc. Even at $30 less, the thing you’re cutting down is the tower, with higher precision required / screw-up risk than buying the BRP system and simply ovalling out the ignition barrel cutout. Again, I had already spent money on the RR tower, so I’m not going to make a virtue out of a necessity. If you’re starting from scratch, go with the complete BRP system to get the benefit and value from the rubber mounting of the bars, or if you’re happy to pay more and do zero modification, get the full RR setup.

Tomorrow, more fairing mount bracket work.

PS – thanks to Yellow Pig for answering some great questions - I only wished I had asked him earlier before making the initial kit purchase. Live and learn …
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canadius_maximus screwed with this post 01-22-2014 at 09:52 AM
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:10 AM   #35
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Hello all,

Sorry if it’s been a bit slow on the build update. Life has been busy – not only regular family “stuff” – but this weekend saw the 2014 Vancouver Bike Show – an event the whole family got to enjoy.

The 7 and 4 year olds have a thing about sportbikes …..



… Mrs CM lookin’ mighty cute on a very cute TU-250X ….



… and trying to bring the thread full circle back to the subject matter at hand – me on of fellow Canadian Mike Hatton’s two Dakar bikes on display …



OK – enough frivolity. This is serious business.

Did a lateral progress move – figured that I’d tackle the front end / fairing part of the project whilst the tanks were off to get easy access to the head stock. As I’ve said before, the billet machined parts of this kit are of absolutely first class. That was perhaps the most satisfying part of the kit. Only weird thing is what seems to be a funky gap on the radiator support mount – The whole subframe has been tightened super tight backwards, and still there is a large gap on a bracket that looks like it should sit flush to the subframe … any thoughts on this?



Electrics were a bit of a pain. There is a clever way of mounting them on with a bracket, but the pictures/instructions left much to guesswork. More importantly, though, I have very little slack on full steer Right on the electrical cables on that side (ignition, brake light, etc.). There’s no way the triangular cover can go over and leave enough slack to turn the bars both ways – am thinking of creating rubber risers so it gives the cables more room to move. I fired up the electrics to test the speedo, blinkers, lights, and horn – everything worked except the front brake light. Turns out the pull on the cable on full right had yanked it off the brake light connector. Reconnected it, created a bit of slack, and everything is fine.

The air sensor got the one and only hanger bracket to hang on, but this little guy (sorry don’t know what he does) seems to not have a home, even though he has a little hanger slot …. Any suggestions? Otherwise I’ll just cable tie him somewhere ….



Here is the cockpit so far:





In the very near term, I’ll want to mount up my Garmin 60 CSX, so in light of that,

1) Any suggestions/photos of how you’ve mounted this on your Evo 1 or 2 kits?
2) I don’t believe mine came with a power cord – though it has an external power connection on the underside – anyone hard-wire theirs in? I’m thinking wiring it to the ignition as opposed to right to the battery? Any how tos on this would be great, as I’m hopeless at a electrics.


I should add that as I go, every bolt is getting blue Loctite, every connector is cleaned and getting some electric grease. So yes, it’s going slow, but I’m looking to iron out any potential gremlins while the bike is “undressed”. Here it looks so far …



Tonight, I’ll get some gas in a jerry and put a bit in to see if there are any leaks in the plumbing … hoping all will be well …

Ciao!
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canadius_maximus screwed with this post 01-30-2014 at 08:22 AM
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:04 AM   #36
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This is good stuff!!! Keep posting your progress!!!
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:23 AM   #37
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I mounted mine like this:



by making this upside dowm L shaped bracket:




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Old 01-30-2014, 07:49 AM   #38
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I built the bike with the Rally Raid Products UK Evo2 kit that you are building check it out
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894952
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:43 AM   #39
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Thanks BJD - though mine is the Evo 1 - the 2 would have been nicer, as it's clearly a narrower profile. But cost was a factor, and figured this would do nicely.

Piggy - thanks for the tip. I like how you've done that. maybe pausing in to incorporate the GPS mount might be time well saved later on. To what did you wire it? I have a few unused empty wires labeled "ACC" - one of those?

Regards,

CM
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Old 01-30-2014, 12:02 PM   #40
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I hard wire mine to the ACC wire that is always on ( I forget if its ACC-1 or ACC-2) and then installed and on/off switch on the dash fr when I actually want to turn the power off to the GPS.
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Old 01-30-2014, 12:36 PM   #41
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I hard wire mine to the ACC wire that is always on ( I forget if its ACC-1 or ACC-2) and then installed and on/off switch on the dash fr when I actually want to turn the power off to the GPS.
Thanks Piggy - I was curious about what that on/off button toggled ...
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:55 PM   #42
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A few steps forward, one step back....

Well, coming along ....

finished up the plumbing - and finally (for the first time in a month) fired it up to make sure there were no pressure leaks, and that the electrics did what they were supposed to ... hooray - fired up no issues (at least that I could tell then).



I then noticed a gap on the bottom head stock bracket - and figured this had to do with why the radiator brace wasn't engaging properly. Loosened everything, and yup - that was it - the bolt now had "bite" , and could draw the fairing mount backward as it was supposed to. That said, the stock length bolt couldn't have done it - I had to dig into my KTM euro bolt kit - which has been a lifesaver for bolt replacements/upgrades. First thing a person should buy once they buy a KTM, I say ...

Anyway, brackets all happy now ....



Next up, I figured I'd resolve the GPS mount issue before panels started covering up the access. I decided on using one of the mount holes in the dash adapter (you guys with the big E/newer speedos won't be able to do this) - I think this will work nicely ....






Got some new orange plastic top fuel tank fairing/spoilers - got those drilled and sorted to mate with the tanks. Can really tell there's some "girth" there with these tanks - but it's good...





Well, having bought the RR-recommended LED front turn signal indicators, I grafted on the the pin connectors from the bulb-style OEM turn signals - a nice solder, heat shrink, the works .... but they don't work when I toggle the turn signal switch in either direction. No blinking, nothing. Furthermore, he rears (which I never touched) just stay lit on with no flashing. Something with these LEDs is not making the whole of the turn signal circuit unhappy. Fuse is good .... any ideas? I seem to recall something about going from bulbs to LEDs on turn signals ... hoping someone can point me in the right direction, please.






So until this gets resolved, I can't do much - the headlight mask has to go next, before any of the other panels go on - and I need the mask off so I can access the turn signal wiring.

Thanks in advance for any help - stay tuned!

CM
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:17 AM   #43
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Coming along nicely.

LEDs are uni-directional, try swapping the wires. You will also need a new flasher relay since the draw will be much less. Resistors suck.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:19 PM   #44
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Coming along nicely.

LEDs are uni-directional, try swapping the wires. You will also need a new flasher relay since the draw will be much less. Resistors suck.
Thanks Lukas - coming from you, that's high praise.

Tried swapping them - all that did was leave the rears burning super low, and the fronts still not flashing.

Now, at least, the rears consistently stay on bright, but no flash - and the fronts don't do anything at all.

Anyone have a recommended part for a replacement flasher relay?

thanks,

CM
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:11 PM   #45
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By swapping the wires I meant for each blinker separately, swapping the positive and ground leads. Is that what you did?

Do you have a separate turn signal indicator bulb or is it part of the instrument panel? If it's separate, remove it and then try again.

This LED flasher should plug right in:
http://sicassracing.com/store/produc...h=105_46_2222&
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