|02-27-2014, 06:58 PM||#46|
Joined: May 2006
|02-27-2014, 10:53 PM||#47|
I love sand !!!
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Abu Dhabi, UAE
not often do we read RRs of the beoved LC8 going to Mongolia. A few pics of the chics wont hurt.
pls get back to posting ...
|02-28-2014, 03:33 AM||#48|
Joined: May 2006
Crossing the Urals was great but a slow process, the lorries were wheezing their way up some of the hills at about 30kmph, after a while I decided to employ a Russian approach to the problem and would undertake them on the 4ft of gravel that made up the hard shoulder, a family on holiday was in front of me at one point and their teenage daughter blew me a great big air kiss as I went past, I laughed, if only she knew what was underneath this helmet
After crossing the Urals we found a lovely little camping spot by a lake and put the tents up properly, it was a beautiful evening and I was tempted to leave the outer off the tent and just have the free standing inner erected as a bug screen, rather strangely there was a Subway franchise stuck all the way out here and so we pootled off and treated ourselves. It should be noted that unlike other fast foods subway is incredibly difficult to order without language as you need to make it up from all the different ingredients and choose from various breads
Unfortunately Ed dropped his bike on the off road section between our camp and the road, I was starting to have doubts about his chances in Mongolia but hey what can you do? We lifted and checked his poor Tenere over and the only damage was to his newly fitted brake lever, and so we refitted the cracked one from Moscow
That night I was glad I had put the outer fly up on the tent, A storm rolled across the Urals and for the first time in my life I was directly under a type of lightning where the bolts could last for several seconds cracking the air all around as the rain hammered down, It was kind of cool, but not conducive to a good nights sleep.
We continued on to Kurgan before heading North. the main road goes through Kazakhstan at this point, theres some sort of free trade zone in place here and I think the Russians can drive without restriction across Petropavlovsk, but I took a chance that there would be a reasonable road crossing up to the next main road to allow us to go around this northernmost prominence of KZ.
There certainly was, but at one point, just after the sun went down we arrived in some strange place with asphalt twisted and corrugated in ways I'd never imagined possible, cars and lorries slowed to 20 kmph, would stop, and try to weave around giant potholes, the air hung heavy with dust and the only town was heaving with trucks, police strolling by prostitutes whose stockinged legs showed the tops of their fishnets and suspender belts below their micro skirts. The whole feel was some sort of Wild West crossed with Mad Max and we decided it was not the kind of place to doss down for a night.
When we reached Omsk the Satnav took us through the middle of the town though I believe somewhere this city has now been bypassed, I took advantage of the dry weather to change the oil on the KTM in a scraggy lay-by, the backdrop was of the cooling towers of a giant power station and regular take off and landings of large passenger biplanes
East of Omsk the scenery changed once more, it was a giant area of wetlands that were presently mostly quite dry, the temperature also plummeted as the wind started to blow hard from the north.
The road we needed was definitely not on the satnav anywhere and so we had some fun for a while leading to the first occasion where I nearly ran out of fuel. there was a petrol station after 140 miles but it was closed and so Ed went on ahead to find the next one, his Tenere having a range of 300 miles to my 200
I treated myself to a coffee and shared a laugh with the woman in the station shop because I knew the word for black (being the same word as Polish 'Czarny' but the word for white is not the same) so said Nyet Czarny, before making horns with my hands, mooing and impersonated the action of milking.
I settled down in the tent and for the first time sent a text to people back home and in Poland saying where I was , I guess I was starting to feel a long way from them all
stickysidedown screwed with this post 02-28-2014 at 10:54 AM
|02-28-2014, 04:01 AM||#49|
Joined: May 2006
The following day was largely uneventful and tramped up to and through Novosibirsk which I guess was something of the gateway to Siberia properly and coincidentally the third largest city in Russia, En-route I saw a strange sight as I ascended a large hill I looked up to the forested skyline, the sky was black and orange which in itself made it feel like we were about to enter the gates of Mordor, but even stranger was the fact the atmosphere between the clouds and the ground was a glowing green haze??
The part of my brain that wasn't riding a motorcycle had a strange little conversation with itself, Oooh cool look at that, the Aurora Borealis, You've always wanted to see that. err doesn't that happen at night and further North than this? Good point non biking brain, hmm what the heck am I looking at? Some strange top secret microwave based beam weapon? no thats just too silly, ahhhh now I get it
I think, and assume, it was the effect of a massive, and I do mean MAHOOOSIVE Forest fire and guess the green was a side affect of all the escaping moisture somehow refracting the light in some vista scale prism? I'll never know, weird science! but without mid 80's hair do's or Kelly Le Brock who I've included for reference in case you find yourself looking at such a thing and wondering,
This is not a mahoosive forest fire in the yonder, but it is weird science
The absence of her and the possibility of a big fire did make me wonder about camping? Not growing up around forest fires I know little about them except they are, big, dangerous, can move quickly and are quite hot, My little North Face tent had a label warning me about not having naked flames inside the tent but didn't say anything about the outside, overall I decided that along with other disaster phenomena it was simply not worth worrying about.
Shortly after Novosibirsk I was stopped by the police for the first time, I simply smiled and said in my clearest English 'Well this should be fun, how are we going to do this?' he just laughed and asked in Russian for my Insurance with neither of us understanding a word of the other, and satisfied with that off I went without any further ado, far from the corrupt and villainous executioner of tough justice I had been worried about, more like a man doing a job though I'm sure he was not a guy to cross
Don't mess with the Russian police!
My next run in with the police was very nearly exactly that, as I took a peek around the back of a slow moving lorry a convoy of Black S class Mercedes under Police escort sped past at about 90mph in the opposite direction, perhaps some oil company big wig moving around, I wondered if being very rich in a country like Russia didn't afford its own problems, of course crying in an S-Class is better than crying in a Lada Riva!
The police obviously had their own financial issues judging by the cut outs of police cars! to help them raise funds to buy real police cars here I am posing for a calendar shoot because I am all about my civic responsibilities
We arrived at Kemerovo/kennys pogo in the dark, driving through its streets with a satnav that was less than helpful by this stage meant I was just heading on a bearing that I hoped would join up with the road East.
A Lada Samara started beeping me from behind and flashed its lights before overtaking and pulling over with his indicators on suggesting he wanted me to stop.
I pulled over, but alongside his drivers door so he couldn't get out of his car, just in case his intentions were dishonest, but we could talk through the window, after a couple of minutes I let him out he was trying to help us but didn't really speak any English only some German, but between this, a piece of pen and paper and a couple of words I recognised from Polish (Tablice=Sign) He was trying to tell us two things
His brother was the KTM dealer in the city (Useful information, there are no official dealerships in Russia so you cannot get KTM dealership addresses from their international website)
We wouldn't find the signs for Irkutsk for another 500km but had to follow the signs out of Kemerovo towards Марии́нск and then Красноярск
He asked us if we had a place to stay and I pointed at the luggage and spread my arms to suggest everywhere was a place to stay, he looked back as if I was insane
We rode on a little further into the night but the road (which would have been awesome on a summers day twisting up and down through hilltop passes) was technical, the weather damp and misty and I kept losing Ed behind me, I think my speed had dropped to about a 40kmph average which was just stupid, Ed said he wanted to keep pushing on but with that being his highest speed I decided the time was better spent sleeping and so pulled off into a field and got the bivi out, it was around 2am
The next morning the weather was gopping, I hid inside my bivi bag reluctant to come out but instead eating a packet of Tuc biscuits with flavoured cheese spreads
It was lovely and warm in there and when I finally left my little nest I began to regret giving Ed the fuses from my heated vest as he was still yet to replace them, I was riding with only MX gloves and as the temperature was about 5 deg with a wet cold wind constantly driving at us, I sent a text home saying Siberia was cold to which I think some clever dick responded along the lines of Well Durrr but this is Siberia in the Summer and so it could equally have been 40C+.
Later that morning I pulled over for Petrol, but Ed somehow dissapeared, there was a queue at the pumps and so I waited figuring he would find me eventually, not like I could look for him without gas and he knew we were pulling in at the next station.
After a few minutes a Trucker sought my attention with his Airhorn before gesticulating up the road, from his position he could see we were a Biker down and before I could see anything Ed Hove into view on foot clutching his elbow
BOLLOCKS! I thought
I could see by the fact he was sort of pouting in a 'I hurt myself' kind of way that he was in fact OK, his eyes didn't read to me as someone with a break but that he was looking to be consoled in some way, I decided I wasn't his mum, He was out here in Siberia and he needed to just deal with whatever was going on with himself psychologically speaking, I don't know if this was fair, I was brought up thinking like this, I wasn't being heartless, it was a conscious choice, but maybe I'm mean?
Is the bike alright? I mean I reckon you look OK? Is the bike rideable?
Erm I dont know some truck drivers are looking after it over there, My elbow hurts
OK sit down over there after buying yourself something sugary, I'll go get your bike
The bike was in reasonable condition, the luggage had taken most of the hit but the petrol tank had scraped up the asphalt, he did smash the screen of his compact camera but that seemed to be the worst of it
There was no sign of any diesel on the road, I couldn't see a reason for the crash past over-braking? but that didn't really matter, turning the ignition on and off to reset the ECU which cuts out in the event of a spill I got the motor running and ran it over to him before going back to get my bike and fuel
Ed was soon back on track, and posing for his post crash photo
I Guess the main thing was that his last remaining front brake lever was intact!
|02-28-2014, 10:58 AM||#51|
Joined: May 2006
Later on we passed by a Suzuki Alto with British plates and a spare tyre on roof bars, Had to be another Mongol Rally team! Sure enough it was and so we waved and gave a toot as we passed by. we pulled in up the road but they went on past, hmm friendly.
But later on we passed them again and this time they did stop, they were two Canadians (though one was studying at St Andrews) pretty laid back guys on their own adventure.
I was low on fuel and they seemed keen to have some company so we agreed to camp together that night. The light was failing and after we filled up the responsibility to find a camp spot was left to me.
I struggled to find a place with access for a car, I was looking for somewhere tucked out the way, not visible from the road. after a couple of dead ends I went down a track only to find myself alone when I reached the conclusion this was not the place for tonight, I ended up slipping as I tried to turn around on the muddy ground and had to let the bike down on its side, unclip the bags, lift, refit bags and ride back. I am on tiptoes riding the KTM, it's taught me good balance and is rarely a problem but every now and again I wish I hadn't gone for the taller S model, but I didn't like the ABS on the regular model and I would be grateful of the extra suspension as I bottomed out across Mongolian steppe later on.
Getting back to the others I saw why I had been alone in picking my bike up, Ed had dropped his own bike on the mud covered asphalt part at the start, not only that he had broken his last front brake lever, Oh dear!
I suggested the Canucks showed me where they wanted to camp after they said they preferred to be around a lot of people rather than camping in an isolated place
They went into a Petrol station forecourt, decided against camping here due to an aggressive bitch looking after her puppies but went up to a square of asphalt behind the station with a couple of wriggly tin workshops fronting the parking area
In the middle was a man repairing a Lada Niva 4x4 with a large hammer and a welder, but the Canadians approached a man packing up for the day from his 'Shed' and went to ask if they could pitch a tent outside, I understood his Russian perfectly without knowing any of the words, he said
What do I care? Do what the F@#k you want! but added not here because a lorry needs access in the morning!
That kind of sums up the Russians to me, they are very fatalistic, indifferent and at the same time generous and kind, I couldn't imagine camping outside an industrial lock up in the UK!
TBH many Brit's would be frothing about those bloody foreigners setting up camp blah de blah, that's not a criticism really so much as an observation about the English and our mentality towards land,space and possession being cooped up on this little island, not once in Russia did anyone seem in the least bit bothered at our camping 'willy nilly'
Ed set to, trying to use chemical metal to repair his levers, I drifted to sleep with the buzz of the welder and the clang of the lump hammer 10 yds away my lullaby for the evening, what a strange campsite indeed
|02-28-2014, 06:02 PM||#52|
Joined: May 2006
The Next morning we woke to the sound of the Volvo Freightliner truck having some work done next to our tents, As well as the ancient heaving Kamaz and Zil trucks there were a lot of the old American 'Big Rigs' now plying their trade on the rivers of asphalt that coursed across this vast landscape
Reminded me of all the films I'd seen as a kid featuring all American trucker hero's and villains, I wouldn't have been at all surprised to see a Russian 'Jack Burton' appear with the kind of mulleted hair-do that also seemed to be in vogue out here in Siberia, however unlike the Kurt Russell film 'Big Trouble in Little China' Lo Pan's Lords of Death Street gang was missing from the picture, thank heavens for that!
Ed's Brake levers had been curing overnight with what we assumed to be chemical metal, the two part epoxy metal taken from England having punctured inside Ed's tool bag before Poland, so we bought the local equivalent American made Abro-Steel confusingly in two different types and all other writing being cyrillic
The first one of two bodged levers simply came apart, however the second seemed to hold. A passer-by saw the first one break and immediately intervened, He had gold teeth and a Lada Riva and soon set to work, and using water from the boot of his car and with the assistance of his teenage sons quickly made another go of the repair, I was half expecting him to ask for some renumeration for the work he'd done, he was trying to communicate something to me and eventually he rang his daughter who spoke some English, but she and I had a very confused conversation because I don't know why he had done that and nor did she, she was also in her class at school and a bit annoyed! far from wanting any money he simply wanted to help, and then invite us to his home, he gave me his mobile number to call in case we had more problems
The Canadians had packed up and got moving, their little Suzuki being a wee bit slower than our bikes they broke camp in a timely and organised fashion, so the net result was that we made similar time through the day.
As Ed packed up his bike I shared slices of watermelon given to me by a man with some English language, he was travelling from Vladivostok to Moscow with his small boy who whilst interested was too scared to sit on the KTM and have his photo taken.
Had I looked in a mirror that morning I might have understood why, The last shower had been a fair while ago and I definitely was looking better with the balaclava on
We rode with caution at first, half expecting Ed's front brake lever to just snap, the road wound across the famous Trans-Siberian railway with increasing frequency and it was seemingly endless procession of carriages if you got caught by the barrier.
I stopped to take a photo of one of the typically Russian homes in one small town and tried to imagine living here, I couldn't though, I have no idea how these people spend their days, I'm guessing they work hard and sleep soundly
We Just kept on trundling along having now picked up the signs for Irkutsk, each time we came to a town we would usually end up leaving it on the wrong road, the Old Federal Highway looking more like a a Country back road that had suffered an airstrike in places was the one on the GPS and it's expired world basemap, but you realised those big rigs couldn't use these and there was generally something much smoother nearby, you could pretty much reach Mongolia on a Pan European or Goldwing without too much drama, certainly at this stage I hadn't needed the 265mm of suspension travel the KTM afforded me.
But would I? The road had mostly looked like this...
But before long that was going to change, We came across one 50km section that was all gravel, hazy with dust and once again we arrived at night, we bumped into the Canadians once again and agreed we would race on ahead and recce a campsite.
I was having great fun, riding at 100+ kph in the dark, on gravel, so much fun in fact that I nearly went into the back of one trailer that was unlit and obscured in all the dust thrown up by all the lorries, not a massive drama but certainly woke me up
I found a nice spot in a flat field near the road and the four of us set up camp, the Canadians kindly letting me steal some non carbonated water to make a mug of coffee they also had food from a shop in the form of bread cheese and sausage, we had mostly been existing on some scrounged military rations, snickers bars and a delicious brand of lemon flavoured chewing gum we found locally until now.
The army rations were quite nice actually, better than the old days anyway but some of it was a little suspicious, like this apricot bar I'd previously enjoyed (tbh I don't like apricots anyway)
The next day we parted company again, I gave the Canadians our Atlas on the grounds they didn't actually have a map of Russia at all and so off we went with a cheery wave
Sometimes the road got a little worse...
And somewhere down the line a couple of things happened.
1) Despite Ed's gently-gently approach to riding (as opposed to my flat out hooning) this happened
I thought the KTM was supposed to have the soft front rim?
2) His 'novel luggage solution' meant he lost his sleeping bag a trucker indicated it had fallen of 1500 metres back when we pulled up at a trans-sib level crossing but by the time Ed went back it had already vanished, I can only imagine how disappointed the finders would have been to unwrap Ed's smelly sleeping bag later on that day
We were now on the stretch of road I had been warned about by the Russian before I set off, so this sign seemed Encouraging en route to Npkytck (Irkutsk) hopefully not an omen!!
We were now also racing the clock as our Russian Insurance was about to expire!
|02-28-2014, 08:25 PM||#53|
Joined: May 2006
I did meet some 'Baddies' on the road, 3 cars in a sort of unconvincing staged accident, the two colliding cars parked very close on one carriageway while the concerned good samaritan on the other carriageway tried flag us down. the cars were all either BMW or Audi's of an older type and all parties wore suits to look all respectable and trustworthy
TBH they stuck out like a sore thumb, especially as they all looked to be from somewhere in the Middle East, I knew they were pulling a fast one because I had seen all three vehicles and those people in exactly the same set up the day before a few hundred miles back
We later discovered the Canadians had stopped for them, they had asked for money to buy some oil for their broken car and despite greeting them as-salam alaykum went on to say they were Romanians far from home and in need of help, the Canadians gave them 20 Romanian Leu which is about £3.50, they were very excited by this abundant generosity in a manner that indicated they had no idea they had been given practically nothing.
We pressed on into Irkutsk and went to look for a motorcycle shop in the hope we could find Ed some new brake levers, unfortunately it was a Suzuki and Kawasaki dealership here and although there seemed to be a Yamaha dealership somewhere no-one could tell us exactly where.
I did suggest Ed bought one of these beasts next time he went travelling to avoid any future luggage issues
Ed and I stopped off by a small outdoor market, he walked back three minutes later with a new sleeping bag, pretty much the only thing the market sold!! the jammy git.
We also stocked up with some food at a supermarket and even a couple of cold Baltica beers with a view to finding some amazing campsite next to the lake to sup them over
As it was a weekend and as such the offices of the newspaper with whom I was to be interviewed would be closed, with my insurance due to expire we made the decision to press on towards Lake Baikal and forfeit my 5 mins of fame
Now I can't really do Lake Baikal any sort of justice from my pictures, I'm not sure any pictures can, it is immense, holding 25% of the worlds fresh water, home to the deep underwater neutrino telescope and all sorts of other amazing things.
here is the wikipedia link should you be interested
What I can say is that the road between Irkutsk was a perfect bikers road through twisting mountain passes, beautiful vistas and smooth tarmac apart from the bits where there wasn't any
so much so we rode until it was properly dark along its shoreline and then found this as our campsite at the edge of this sight of natural wonder and beauty
|02-28-2014, 08:53 PM||#54|
Joined: May 2006
Right then Where was I? Ah I remember, I've just woken up in a petrol station forecourt having slept in a bivi-bag on a vehicle inspection ramp to the sound of thousands of tonnes of bulk goods being transported across Siberia by rail, Clank-clank Clank-clank Clank-clank that unmistakable heavy metal Metronome of the train.
By now the desire to have a proper shower, eat real food or sit down on a porcelain throne are starting to eat into my subconscious, I'm sure I dreamed of all these things last night?!? It's been cold too, what's going on? it's supposed to be warm!
Well one thing I've learnt is that when you wake up and the day is cold and wet and you have a lot to do, really the best thing to do is get on with it. As Ed packs his luggage up I take the time to wire in a feed for the electric vest from the battery and together we get out onto the road.
I decide to shake off my blues by riding very very fast wherever I can, this is particularly good fun on the sections where the road stops and becomes a cocktail of compacted stones and mud, despite the rearward weight of tyres, oil and luggage 70mph is entirely feasible if you just trust the bike and go flat out across the really lumpy bits, I have moment of regret as a sparrow sized bird flies out in my path and hits me square in the chest but this soon passes as the sun comes out, and not only that the Petrol station has a real toilet, I proceeded to give birth to something foul.
An old man starts to stroll over to ask for some change but the petrol station security guard intercepts him, shouting a warning with his hand demonstrably atop his side handled baton, I quite believe he would have exercised his government licenced authority if the point was pressed, but so to does the old man and we never find out thankfully.
The Road remains mostly good and fast, I have a play with a Toyota Highlander whose having a thrash of his 225hp 3.3 litre v6 4x4, a popular car hereabouts and reminiscent of the Subaru Forester, I'm envious of the Russians cheap petrol, I feel guilty about having an audacious 1.6l car in the UK!
Along the road to Ulan Ude
Before long we arrive in Ulan-Ude, our very last city before Mongolia
We pull into a petrol station and fill up, I discover to my horror that there is a thing so foul as fish jerky in the attached shop and Ed discovers to his horror that the girl he's just been telling me he would definitely nail were it not for her Jason Statham hard man lookalike boyfriend speaks perfectly acceptable English.
We have a brief chat with her, she concludes we are crazy when we say what we are doing there and off we go, as I pull away I get attacked by a German Shepherd, Now I'm a big dog softy, I didn't watch the film I am Legend because I know the dog gets it! but this mutt instinctively got a size 10 Motocross boot to the nose, this was not the time to do anything else.
The road from Ulan Ude was great, quiet, smooth and we were starting to gain altitude, the scenery also changed dramatically, we took a celebratory photo on the road in that marked the end of Russia for this leg
(the face of a man who'd kick a dog in the schnozz)
Damn I love this bike!
We carried on for a fair old while, the land seemingly used as a long buffer between Russia and Mongolia in a way that wouldn't be possible in Europe.
I noticed a few hilltop installations, some with large arrays of Radar dishes sweeping the atmosphere for any skybound threats..
Eventually we came to the last mountain range, Russia courteously placing a large Powerstation and mining town at the start of it by an otherwise beautiful lake/reservoir
Along the way we bumped into another car from the Mongol Rally, a nice bunch of lads in a Fiat Punto who quickly jetboiled up a nice cup of tea for us
another Mongol rally team, they are everywhere!
And then there we were descending into the Border town Кя́хта, Border towns are often scabby, this one housed a lot of military equipment and barracks, barrack towns IME are often scabby.
I dont think Russia was expecting any invasion from Mongolia but part of me thinks that Mongolia is a very convenient No-mans land between them and China
and so Кя́хта was scabby squared! I took the opportunity to buy the last cheap Russian petrol before Mongolia, and as I pulled up to the pumps I saw three 10-12yr old boys run out from behind the station with zeal, I knew exactly what the look on their faces meant, they were going to try and get some pocket money from the dumb tourists.
The three of them attempted to help me with the otherwise difficult task of lifting a petrol nozzle and putting it in my tank, and so I just shoo'ed them away did what I was doing and strolled towards the cashier to give her some roubles
As I glanced back I saw a curious pair of hands reaching in to open the glove box that sits between the two fuel tanks on the KTM, the place that normally housed either my Wallet/phone or camera, as it happened it was empty but what happened next was completely reactionary.
Somewhere from very deep down projected a voice I haven't used since barking marching orders out across a parade ground as a youngster, I't came with such a gutteral ferocity that it surprised me tbh
OI!!! IF YOU DARE TO TOUCH THAT I WILL BREAK YOUR FU@KING LEGS IN TWO...DO YOU UNDERSTAND ME
Instantly three Young boys stopped in their tracks and put up their hands! and to my amusement it had the same effect on Ed
after that they didn't ask me for any money though they tried it out on Ed who simply said errr no
There was a confusing 10 minutes in the town itself as following the satnav didn't take us to the border crossing though ten years ago it probably would have and then we were there in the queue to leave Russia
It was getting close to the border being closed and we had no idea of whether we would make it through in time but we didn't really want to stay in this town, Ed wandered off down the queue and found our friends the Canadians about 8 vehicles in front of us.
As he was chatting I met two more scallies, youngish kids that were working their way up and down the queue seeing what they could scrounge, one was a hamster cheeked obese asian kid, he struck me as the leader of the other, a weaselly, blonde mulleted caucasian.
Can I drink your water? asked the ring leader
Do you have any chocolate?
Don't think you need any mate, really! go away
where are you going?
(at this point his number 2 comes up and in that way children are sometimes such terrible actors he had guilt written all over him! I heard him mutter to the Asian his mischievous plan, now I guess No 2 didn't know any English, so I guess didn't know that the word for crisps as 'chips' is quite universal or that Bekon is not so far away from Bacon!, he had desires to pilfer Ed's big bag of bacon crisps casually bungeed to his luggage!!)
I pointed at No 2 and said something about grinding his bones to make my bread, I was starting to get the hang of this ogre stuff after years of simply looking like Shrek!
So there we were, now unmolested and armed with a bag of Bekon crunchies and a half litre of water about to try and cross the border just before it closed
How was that going to go I wondered?
|03-01-2014, 01:01 PM||#55|
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Cheshire uk
Im loving this more than the walking dead !!!!Great write ups every time just shows us what we all can do on a low budget !! This is real mondo enduro style ! Resspect and your both legends
|03-02-2014, 06:06 AM||#56|
Stay light as light
Joined: Oct 2013
Location: French frog living in Budapest
seems that the helmet on ground with sun glasses is a head...brrr strange !!!
a TTR600 is a good bike to avoid braking. (which brakes ?)
|03-02-2014, 06:48 AM||#57|
Joined: May 2006
I hadn't noticed until you pointed it out, that would have been an interesting turn of events
Hey that's also a good view of ed's now improved luggage system!, anyone care to guess how many individual bags/items are bungee'd on in this pic!!!??
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