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Old 02-08-2014, 06:39 PM   #31
AustinJake
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The bike was running prior to teardown, I'm almost certain, the cam timing is off.
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Old 02-09-2014, 01:11 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
Sounds like the shop knew what they were doing as far as working on valves. So probably not it, if they were good enough to do a lapping job I'd think they knew enough to check their work.

I guess next would be to do the compression tests with oil in the cylinders and see if you have "some" compression. That may tell if the rings are stuck and they may be from running with a leaky head gasket/carbon accumulation.

What did the top of the pistons look like as far as carbon and such crap built up? And I say crap, hard carbon isn't usually a problem but the soft oily stuff is, gets down in the ring grooves and packs them up.
That's a good thought. I had a friend over and he recommended a "wet" compression test, so we put some oil in the cylinders and still didn't get any compression.

The pistons didn't look to bad. I'm thinking it's the cams too.
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Old 02-09-2014, 02:16 PM   #33
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That's a good thought. I had a friend over and he recommended a "wet" compression test, so we put some oil in the cylinders and still didn't get any compression.

The pistons didn't look to bad. I'm thinking it's the cams too.
Now you know what it isn't. Can you easily remove the valve cover on them bikes? Should be easy enough putting No1 at TDC and see where the cam lobes are. I know where they shouldn't be.

But I did look at your video of the original leaky head gasket. Can't tell but it seems that it was leaking below the head gasket toward the cylinders. Could the block be the problem if warped???

Can you pressurize the cylinders with compressed air? No need for a leak down tester, just a hose and adapters and a small compressor on No1 at TDC.Just just to see where/if the air escapes?

I also looked at your link....the one with the big flashing warnings. Quite a set of instructions and the "aligning cams vs different models" of the "almost same" engine. Old bike...can some of the parts have been interchanged and that engine model isn't exactly the same as what it came with from the factory???
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:23 PM   #34
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Now you know what it isn't. Can you easily remove the valve cover on them bikes? Should be easy enough putting No1 at TDC and see where the cam lobes are. I know where they shouldn't be.

But I did look at your video of the original leaky head gasket. Can't tell but it seems that it was leaking below the head gasket toward the cylinders. Could the block be the problem if warped???

Can you pressurize the cylinders with compressed air? No need for a leak down tester, just a hose and adapters and a small compressor on No1 at TDC.Just just to see where/if the air escapes?

I also looked at your link....the one with the big flashing warnings. Quite a set of instructions and the "aligning cams vs different models" of the "almost same" engine. Old bike...can some of the parts have been interchanged and that engine model isn't exactly the same as what it came with from the factory???
Unfortunately I don't have any compressed air other than what comes in a can. But the warped block is a good point, I'll definitely look into that if I can't get the cam timing to work out.

Concerning the instructions, I think they are good. He details the difference between one engine and another, and specifies what one should do specifically with a KZ550. Also, I used that more as a reference, and followed mainly the factory manual. I will go back and double check. Hopefully I missed something in the timing and it works out. I would hate for the block to be uneven.
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:47 PM   #35
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I would think that even with a warped block, you would have compression in 2 cylinders. And, it ran before teardown so it isn't like it warped more while it was apart.

I would put a straw in the #1 cylinder, turn it by hand to TDC and verify that the valves were all closed.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:43 AM   #36
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Be a bit careful here, it's quite hard to steer a bike that's running backwards.

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Old 02-11-2014, 09:15 AM   #37
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No pressurized air....you can get clues that the valves stay open. If air comes out of the carbs as you crank instead of getting sucked in, valve timing is sure off. May be accompanied by a strong smell of raw gasoline.

Make sure you disconnect the coils when you do that just in case it backfires.

No pressurized air....maybe some liquid soap along the head gasket?....crank and watch for bubbles.

But again, how hard is it to remove the valve cover, go to TDC and look at the lobes/marks?Pic is clear as to cam position, but still a good idea to turn any engine by hand a few times and recheck.

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Old 02-15-2014, 02:37 PM   #38
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Got it running!

Turns out my cam timing was way off. I'm not sure how that happened, or how it was turning over without the piston/valves hitting each other, but things were certainly off.

I set the engine to TDC, and also took off a spark plug on #4 and looked to make sure that the piston was coming up to the top. I then reset the cams to factory timing. Once it was put back together it started right up!

Now I have another issue:
The bike is running very poorly, and spitting smoke consistently. It also sounds like it is backfiring a little bit. I have to play with the choke to keep it running. I think that the carbs are way off and will try to adjust them and then sync them to see if that's the issue. I did remove/dismantle/clean them a few weeks ago, so that could have caused issues (plus they weren't in good shape to begin with).
Let me know if you guys think of something else that could be causing the smoke/poor running.

Video as always: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZ_1_vZnyEI

Thanks much.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:59 PM   #39
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Hmm. There is a bit of a tinging noise that does not sound good.

That said, it is running, so that is good.
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:25 PM   #40
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Hmm. There is a bit of a tinging noise that does not sound good.

That said, it is running, so that is good.
Now you're just scaring me.
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:40 PM   #41
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Sounds like you may have some exhaust leaks at the head or pipe junctions.

Did you get the slack in the cam chain to the rear of the intake cam so it can be controlled properly ? Have you adjusted the cam chain slack ?

Mike
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:52 PM   #42
AustinJake
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Well, I have to bring it up, could be that some valve stem got bent, letting oil into the combustion chamber down thru the bent valve stem, and the clicking and poor running could be from poor combustion chamber sealing.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:03 PM   #43
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very possible
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:18 PM   #44
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Well, I have to bring it up, could be that some valve stem got bent, letting oil into the combustion chamber down thru the bent valve stem, and the clicking and poor running could be from poor combustion chamber sealing.
Is that something I would be able to diagnose with a compression test? As in = lower compression in one cylinder indicated a bent valve?
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:49 PM   #45
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Yes that will answer it.
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