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Old 03-30-2014, 02:12 PM   #16
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Day Three - Sunday 9/2/07

Thanks for reading, shmrmoon! It's such a big, diverse state...I feel the need to see the other quarters that I missed. Much more scenery to come.


Day three begins...

The next morning, after checking out, I knew I needed to revisit the “scene of the crime”. No, there was nothing resembling a crime in Rangely for me, not like Vail would be later in the trip, but jeez, did my last night’s restaurant look like an absolute dump! Would you eat here? It looks frickin’ abandoned. Yet I enjoyed an evening there, served by locals, surrounded by happy people who called the area home. It was a perfect example of why I love to travel, and do it solo from time to time: I was a quiet witness to an authentic scene of America. Nothing was fake; no one was acting; there was no “scene”. Seeing the place in the daytime was a little startling, though. I have expected to see Patrick Swayze and Sam Elliott eyeing the place for security risks.







Route 139 south out of Rangely was busy pumping things out of the ground, but turned into a gorgeous experience. The desert-like scenery continued, but I got to enjoy some twisty roads over mountains through Douglas Pass. I got to learn what the “Open Range” signs meant: it wasn’t the concept of “guns free!”, but instead “cows free!” Yes, there could be animals on the road – there are no fences to keep them out. I was lucky – no problems with free firearms or cows. Regardless, the area was gorgeous. I had left a desert-y section along a creek and moved upward into green canyons with a wonderfully curvy road.













The last stretch of the road led over a strange rise in the land and went down away from the mountains. These were the mountains that I was hoping to stay with all through Colorado…except that Colorado makes you think that the whole state is snowy and peak-y. Instead, this section was dry and desert-y, on the road to Loma. Once I crossed that hump of a mountain, it felt like I’d left the desert/boondocks part of Colorado. I was approaching Grand Junction, the biggest city since Denver. Behind me were the gorgeous, red-tinged Book Mountains.









At 612 total miles into the trip and 11:39am, I pulled into the Best Buy in Grand Junction. My friend Craig told me he stayed in that town for weeks for work, and found it to be frustratingly boring. I found it to be kind of an old railroad town that had retail spring up around it…kind of like the only big town for many, many miles, and it showed. It was where everyone came to get the stuff they needed, but not really want to build a cultural center. I was there to get a new voice recorder, as the last one had bit the biscuit. The night before, as I was hitting the sack and recording my deepest, darkest, most eloquent thoughts, I discovered that it had just stopped working. It had failed to record the entire trip up to that point! I was so pissed I chucked it against the wall and it became even more non-functional.I use these very small digital recorders to note the things I’m seeing and learning, the mileage, the time, the weather, etc. – all the details that I can’t stop to write down. It’s additionally fun to hear your voice talk about the experience as you’re experiencing it, with potential sound effects and motorcycle wind in the background. I rode on out of Grand Junction on I-70 east toward Mesa through gorgeous desert scenery, which is not something you often find on main highways. I loved winding through rugged canyons – more rugged than Arizona’s in many spots. The word “browner” came to mind, apropos of nothing.





Coming up...up the grand mesa...
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:24 AM   #17
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Great report! For some reason, many of the photos have gone away, at least on my computer. Just yesterday, I was working on an upcoming cross-country tour and opted to take the US 40 route out of Steamboat. I did it back in '07 and your trip report just fortifies that decision. Thanks for taking the time/effort to post.

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Old 03-31-2014, 08:39 AM   #18
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Thanks for reading...

Thanks for reading, mikegc...glad my shots could be of help. Ski towns in the summer feel really weird, as I found in Steamboat Springs.

Let me know if the photos aren't showing up - everything looks fine on my end.

Onward...
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadWHooper View Post
Thanks for reading, mikegc...glad my shots could be of help. Ski towns in the summer feel really weird, as I found in Steamboat Springs.

Let me know if the photos aren't showing up - everything looks fine on my end.

Onward...
The photos are showing up now. It must have been something on my end.

I was out there a few years ago in May and, leaving Steamboat and heading for Denver, I ran into this going over Rabbit Ear Pass:



A state trooper stopped me a mile or so after I took the photo and told me in unceremonious terms to get off the mountain. I told him I was trying but I'd gotten held up. He had no sense of humor.


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Old 03-31-2014, 09:21 AM   #20
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Up the Mesa: "have fun, be safe, be wild"

Not far from Grand Junction, at 12:03pm and 636 miles, I got off on a wonderfully twisty Route 65 (aptly named “Grand Mesa Scenic and Historic Byway) to Mesa. This whole section of the ride was an unexpected treat. The road was a blast for motorcycling, and the scenery was great – in fact, I only took one picture, and it was while riding, and it just didn’t pass muster to put up on this ride report. After the curves came a long, straight, uphill blast to the Grand Mesa. This megalithic natural wonder was something I wasn’t aware was going to be on my path. I pulled over halfway up to look back at the desert landscape I’d just come through.



I wasn’t missing the heat, though. It was rather warm out there, though heading up in elevation certainly helped. I had all my jacket partially unzipped, all the vents open, and was wearing my hot weather gloves. The Olympia pants with mesh vent panels were doing their job pretty well. The BMW itself was not throwing off any noticeable heat. It had been performing perfectly the whole time…seeing these pictures again and thinking about how I used this bike makes me wonder if I should be looking at the sport-tourers rather than the adventure-tourers. I guess I just like the extra legroom, stand-up comfort, and gnarly looks of the big adventure/dual-sport/touring bikes, even if I am 90% on the pavement.



At 12:28pm and 650miles, I pulled over into the tiny village of Mesa. I put 2.6 gallons in the tank just to be sure, and grabbed an apple, some GORP, and a fruit bar for myself. The shopkeeper said, “Ah, you’re eating healthy.” Okay. Again, I cannot recommend that stretch of Route 65 more. Weaving up through the canyons was so epic I shot a short video of it, but didn’t want to get off to take still shots. At the risk of sounding wanky, or stealing a line from Joe Satriani, it was like flying through a dream.

As I shot up the mountain, just three miles past Mesa, I babbled into my voice recorder (yes, while riding), and recorded some thoughts about the ride so far:

653 miles, What did I miss? Powderhorn ski resort is up here. This morning. I guess I missed a lot. Got up, checked out, rode on through crappy parts of rest of the Rangely area, thru basic desert until a little ways in and crossed over a pass at 8,400 feet, turned into amazing desert road. Road up to pass was incredible, curvy. The way down was also incredible with 15mph switchbacks that I enjoyed taking at 30mph, so I felt good about my skills. Rolled into Loma, down down down through desert and to the farming town, then finally on I-70, which was blocked by a truck crash, so I did a detour around that, in fact, finally, once back on I-70 at Grand Junction, I saw the truck’s trailer that was all smashed up being carted away, then got to Best Buy. Still going up and up and up into the green mountains here. So what else? So much to talk about! The fact that, at 50 miles into the entire trip, I put 3.5 gallons into the tank, so the tank was NOT full! The fact that yesterday at about 10:30-11am that I did 122 mph on the bike down a straight, straight road where I could see all cars in front of me and all the cars coming, where were none, which was a little scary, but my girlfriend said to me in an email the other day from San Francisco: “have fun, be safe, be wild”, and blah blah blah. The “be wild” thing is [unintelligible]. I’m a little concerned about the oil temp. It keeps creeping up to ¾ toward the red. And, I don’t know if that’s normal. The guy gave me a bottle of oil. Don’t know if he meant that it burns oil. I guess I’ll check it tomorrow. That ride yesterday morning was sheer bliss. That top speed section: could have kept going, gone faster and faster. But I started thinking about things: I’m not afraid of dying so much as missing out. God knows this world is hard enough sometimes: tragedy, sickness, pain, and work, but at the same time – WHOA! off to my right is the open desert, Just yawning out all brown and tan, bits of green – so anyway, but then I would miss out on doing things like this, that I wouldn’t be able to have two more days of riding the Rockies, so that’s when I let my hand off the gas, slowed down. That morning ride was THE best. Crossed the continental divide about three times. Went thru Mesa forest course right after that – that was probably half dead, 75% from beetles, learned from the guy at the gas station - strange guy where I bought Mentos from. Passing Powderhorn Ski Resort – would be a great place to ski because it looks down on the desert. So we’re just creeping up the hill here. Very cool. I should shut up and drive, I guess.

Almost all the way up, at 667 miles and at 1:01pm, I stopped at Battlement Mesa for the vistas. The dichotomy between desert and alpine was fantastic, as was the cooler air.













Onward and upward I continued through the pines and increasingly chilly air to the table top of Grand Mesa and the Grand Mesa Park. It was good to be back in the mountains again! At 1:09pm and 672 miles, it was just gorgeous. There, the road leveled out and wound me through mountain lakes, thick forests, and meadows. Cool, crisp, and clean air. It was clearly a big area for outdoor activities – there were many cars pulled over on the road. Lots of boating and kayaking going on. The tall, pointy spruce trees were a nice change from the desert below. It was 20 miles to Delta, Colorado, a town near where I’d be taking Route 92 east. If it’s anything like Route 65, this was going to be a great day!









Eventually, I started coming down the back side of the mountain and the heat came back. The brown, scrubby landscape did too. I was starting to wonder about a place for lunch. At 687 miles, I saw a place with a lot of bikes out front, but opted not to stop. I don’t know why I rarely pull into those bike-friendly places. I guess I’m looking for less of a crowd. I figured Delta would have some options. The road dropped down just as steeply as it had when I came up on the other side.





At 690 miles and 1:58pm, I finally stopped at Highway 65 Burgers, a sterile, diner-like fast-food place that hearkened back to a day before McDonald’s. I had the chicken sandwich – one of those pre-cut, pre-cooked patties. Ugh. There was a girl working as the cashier. I enjoyed her bemused reaction at me walking up with my shaggy hair and strange black riding pants. My guess is that her job was not that exciting and that anything different would help lessen the monotony. I remember my high school/college summer jobs as having long stretches of sheer boredom, but they also weren’t in a locally-owned fast-food restaurant on the side of a frickin’ mountain in rural Colorado.

Route 92 wasn’t far, but I still had plenty of riding to do this day.

Once off the mountain (I think I’d finally bottomed out on the altitude for this trip), I turned eastward on Route 92 east. At 2:11pm and 700 miles I took a big bug in the face…it would have been right on my sunglasses (I always wear clear or tinted plastic glasses with my full-face helmet – I do not understand why many riders don’t) if I hadn’t had the visor down. It was a pretty goopy one – at least it was mostly clear goop – I experienced a yellow one the day before. 92 east took me through scrubby desert, some cliffs, canyons, and mesas. Not the most exciting area. It was 16 miles to Hotchkiss and Route 113 north – the last stretch to the last road to Aspen. My mind wandered a bit, remembering that I should get something for my girlfriend. One of my best friends, who lives in Boulder, CO and knows these areas because he pedals them on a bicycle, said there might be a jazz festival or some sort of music event going on in Aspen, which could be cool. I’d never been there and was really looking forward to it.





Onward to Aspen...
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:46 AM   #21
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Cojones

Brass balls, Mike.

Reminds me of this day on New Hampshire's Kancamagus Highway. Once it started accumulating on the road, I turned around and went the long way.



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Old 04-03-2014, 08:01 PM   #22
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Moving Through Central Colorado

At 2:23pm and 714 miles, I was passing through another agricultural area. There were wineries around there…orchards too. It must be dry wine and fruit – the area was pretty dry itself! I was also noticing zilch in the way of convenient restaurants – no fast food, but instead I saw locally owned sandwich shops, crappy burger places, and little places on the shoulders. Normally, this would be great, but I felt like I was in a hurry and didn’t see any place that called me to pull over.

As entered a much more mountainous area, I saw rain off to my right. It reminded me of something I saw as I rode out of Rangely: in a turning lane in the middle of the road, I noticed a strange red vehicle. As I overtook it, I saw that it was an old lady in a wheelchair. She was driving a bizarre cart-like vehicle that allowed her to roll her wheelchair up onto it and then drive the whole thing around. Apparently, she also felt it was street-legal. Who knows, maybe it was!

The town of Hotchkiss came up next. From there, I took Route 133 northeast toward Paonia.



At 2:48pm and 735 total miles, I was riding through Somerset, a very cool mining town. I came through the entry canyon, past big elevators, and watched a trail roll by on my left. Some rain dripped on me as I passed below a dark cloud. Once again, I wondered what people did for a living around there. It would be about 50 miles until Carbondale, where I would take a right turn to Aspen. I hoped to finish this section by 3:30pm, which would put me in Aspen nice and early…just what I was hoping for.

The road led me gently uphill, the railroad on my left, the Paonia Reservoir and the North Fork Gunnison River on my right, and more peaks up ahead.











At 3:27pm and 769 miles, I was seven or eight miles to Carbondale. The road took me through fantastic gorges made of “gorgeous” red stone. Once up and over the main peak, I joined up with a few bikes – including another BMW K1200GT. He and I did some passing of each other along the way. It was a beautiful section of road. I should have been going slower and taking pictures of the astounding scenery.







The stretch of road into Carbondale was gorgeous…the last stretch was along the East Mesa Ditch (river) on my right. I passed some slow Harleys (no problem, but they were doing the letter of the law – there’s something to be said for not being in a hurry), then caught up with my BMW friend. Once out of the canyon and into Carbondale, I found the decent retail and residential there...nicer than most of what I’d seen so far. I pulled over at a gas station near the intersection of 133 and 82 and drank some delicious, piping-hot Diet coke. I was tuckered out…my right shoulder and neck (throttle muscles) were dying. Today’s mileage would be about 300.

Next up...into Aspen...and bathtub leakage!
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:57 PM   #23
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Into Luxiury (Aspec)

Route 82 southeast took me quickly and directly to Aspen, past the little airport and in through a gorgeous welcome of mountains. I arrived at about 4:30pm or so. Aspen was pretty sweet. It reeked of all wealth and no industry. That said, the downtown area was crisscrossed with charming little streets and plenty of small shops to keep people busy. The ski runs – now green – stretched up from the main square of town, and every town needs a central meeting place.

I found the Hotel Jerome easily – right downtown. It had a gorgeous stone façade. I did a few laps around town to get my bearings and scope out the social scene. Eventually, I pulled up at the front of the hotel and a dude came out with a “hello sir!” I responded with a “Hi, I’m checking in, can I leave this [bike] here for a minute?” He responded with: “Do you have a reservation?” Duh, like I’m checking in without a reservation. Poor guy. He could hang out with my hot and clicking bike while I went in, still fully-ATGATT. I’m sort of a do-it-yourself guy. I’m able-bodied. I try to save bucks here and there, especially for things that I can handle myself. So I sort of like pulling up to a hotel on a bike – there’s really not going to be a need to tip someone to park my bike or carry my luggage. I hate to say it – and I know these people make their living on tips – but you can drive yourself crazy traveling in tip-centric places like Hawaii, New York, etc., or anytime you visit higher-end places. My wife and I make a fine living, but we started to get tip-overload on a work/pleasure trip to Hawaii. We were staying at a number of hotels over the course of 10 days, and renting a few cars on the various islands. To keep frickin’ small bills on-hand for tipping is a pain in the ass. Especially when you’re a grown-ass man, 6’3”, raised by do-it-yourselfer Midwesterners who taught self-sufficiency and frugality! So, I guess what I’m saying is that motorcycle travel will often discourage that kind of tip-piness. Valet parkers won’t/can’t ride bikes. They don’t know what to do with latched-on and strapped-on bike luggage. Another reason to ride more!

Shockingly, an eastern European girl was at the front desk. She’s like, “Umm wait a minute while I check on something.” I’m like, “Great, my Hotels.com reservation didn’t go thru.” But it all worked.

She asked, “Did you come through the pass?” I responded, confused and a bit taken aback, “I came thru so many passes I don’t know anymore.” I was a bit burnt, and it must have showed because they gave me a free parking spot under the building, along with my room key. I rolled down to the garage, left the bike, and wandered around the back wing of the hotel looking for the front wing. It was a gorgeous – if immense – place inside. When I finally found my room and figured out how to use the key card, I also found the room to be immense too! The biggest non-suite hotel room I’ve ever had (yet no view – I was stuck looking at the inside of the breezeway between wings). This thing had a monstrous bedroom: a fireplace in the corner; a gigantic flat screen; two big leather seats; a monster bed with a leather headboard. I wandered to the bedside table – a remote control for the whole room caught my eye. It controlled window shades (sheers/drapes), fireplace, TV, sound, lights, etc. Buttons were labeled by door. One was “Request Maid Service” and “Privacy” – just like when you hang the little doorknob tag out there. This thing talked when I pressed it: “Maid service requested.”
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:57 PM   #24
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Ahhhhh, Aspen












The bathroom was a monster, too: a two-foot-deep soak tub with jets. Jeez, it looked like a sarcophagus! Monster shower with lots of heads, with rain-down shower heads. And what’s this strange square in the mirror? Good lord, it’s another TV! There’s a TV in the bathroom, built into the mirror, so it’s nearly invisible! I started doing laps around the room! What better way to celebrate this luxury than to watch The Sopranos as I took a long, very deep bath. I did so later.
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:48 AM   #25
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About that Tub - and the Mirror TV



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Old 04-07-2014, 11:56 AM   #26
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Great RR!! Thanks, but it makes me want to get out and ride!! LOL!!
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:19 PM   #27
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Me Too!

Me too, S-Track-Junkie.

I recently remembered how alive an adventurous ride like this makes me feel - my last was Death Valley (ironic) and the Las Vegas area, a year ago - and realized that I need to do things like this once a year. A year is a long time, and we don't have many (especially in the motorcycling ages), so we should do what we can. For me, it means convincing my wife that it's something important to me, but I figure every safe trip I take (and not too long), the more she'll be okay with it. I even float the idea of going with me on them (Grand Tetons or Adirondacks might capture her imagination - after all, she loved our ride down Big Sur).

Thanks for reading! And now, onwards!
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:33 PM   #28
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My Day (and Night) in Aspen

I took a quick walk around the center of town to see what was there. Great scenery, ideas for dinner, and lots of people-watching.









I headed back and jumped in that dream bath. I cranked on the bath jets, poured a sipping Bourbon, and was feeling great.

At 7:30pm, after the bath and getting dressed again, I thought about my options. The bar/restaurant downstairs looked fun, so I opted to take a walk downtown, shop, come back, eat downstairs, and repeat. There were two bottles of water and two Toblerones left as gifts in my room. Nice.

Once out of the bath, I was full-on clean, still feeling great, and catching up on emails. A knock on the door? Who could that be? I put on a bathrobe, and figure it’s the turndown service. Nope, it’s a hotel manager. “Sir, were you using the bath this evening?” He asks

“Yes, I just got out of it.” I respond

“Could you stop?”

“Yeah, it’s over. I’m out.”

“Were you using the Jacuzzi jets too?”

“Um, yes.” [that’s sort of personal, no?]

“Well, there’s water leaking downstairs into the State Dining Room, so could you not use it anymore?” He seemed really anxious and rather desperate. I was impressed that they tracked it down to my room.

“Of course, no problem.” Slightly embarrassed, I wondered if it was dripping down into people’s salads. Hilarious. Actually, I feared going downstairs and having people say, “Oh you’re in Room 208? Great job, arsehole, we got a lot of soapy soapiness in the dining room. My wife’s spinach salad tasted like bath gel.”

Luckily, none of that happened, but it did set a tone for that cursed room and my inhabitance of it. It was time to hit the town.

Coming up: it get's worse.
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'06 Buell XB12X Ulysses; '07 H-D FXDB Dyna Street Bob

Solo Around Scotland (BMW R850R); AZ and UT (H-D Road King): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744536l; Death Valley & Vegas (BMW R1200GS): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=926499; NW Colorado (BMW K1200GT): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=955168
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:29 PM   #29
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Aspen Mystery Night

I walked up to the square and sat down at the bar at a restaurant called “Pacifica” for dinner. Delicious, but I was turned off by the prices. Yet, I ordered an $8 gazpacho and, surprisingly, received a frickin’ trough of tomato soup, made even more delicious with crab meat and a slice of avocado. Yes, in 2014, that appetizer would have been $14. The always-interesting travel banter began with the bartender. He had been to Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, so we had lots to talk about. He was a funny guy. Two women in their mid-late 30s came in and sat next to me at the bar. We all chatted and I learned that they were locals. The guy with them was absolutely wrecked. He made no sense. I was enjoying my wine, but this guy was speaking a version of English that I was not familiar with, and of topics that I knew nothing about. It made no sense for him to be with these interesting women, but they had taken ownership of him. There was another group on my left, an Indonesian couple. The guy did the talking. He did freelance writing for Audi, so he told stories about driving and renting Audis and touring them around the world.

One of his first questions to me, after learning of my Colorado ride was, “What passes have you hit? What curvy roads?”

So, we talked all night about cars, roads, curvy roads, and how best to enjoy them all. His wife piped up eventually. They live in San Francisco, so we talked about that great city (where I’d be in the next week). He thought my stories interesting enough to ask if I had blog.

“You tour a lot and write a lot, but where do you put this out?” He asked.

“Dammit,” I said, “that’s what I need to do!”

[and so here we are]

Eventually I finished up at the restaurant and wandered around Aspen. It was 10:45pm. I was toasty, recounting the evening’s events into my voice recorder as I sat outside among the tourist crowds, smoking a cigar (something I haven’t done in years), near a place called Gusto. I phoned and talked to one of my best friends, John, who lives in Boulder, and who I would see the next day. It was a great conversation with him, as always. This is where things start to get a little surreal.

The whole sequence of the night went crazy from there. And somehow I had tweaked my back. And I recorded it on my Grand Junction Best Buy recorder:

“O my god there’s my back! Holy fark that hurts! Alright. mudderfarker that hurts. Ah shyte that hurts!”

Here’s the history as I recorded it, basically:

“I cruised back to hotel and up to my room. I came into the room and the bed is turned down: mints on either side of the bed, because of course I have a lady friend. Of course I don’t have a lady friend! Tomorrow night I won’t, but the next night I will! At that point, I go downstairs. For some reason I go down and I say I can’t get in my room. “Oh,” they say, “you can’t get into your room because it’s one of the rooms with the new card swipes and we can’t get you into it, so go to the bar, and we will buy you a Guinness while we get you a new key.” I’m like, “of course”, but I’m a bit embarrassed because there’s a farking martini sitting in the fake greenery – where I left it – I got the martini from the bar down below before going up to my room.

“And so, yes indeed, I learned that the privacy button does turn on the red light outside the room and dissuades housekeeping from bothering you. What an amazing farking hotel. It’s 12:30am. I’m going to bed.”

And so, as I lay in bed, I continued to wonder – into my recorder – how the night panned out:

“It’s so surreal. I don’t know how my (quite excellent) book, ‘McCarthy’s Bar’, got into my room. I was talking to John, I came back to the hotel, I looked in, saw the turn down service, I went down to the front desk and said I can’t get into my room, and it’s true, I couldn’t. I guess it turned out to be that I – bizarre – I must have come up, brought my book up…then maybe I went back down to have a martini, came back upstairs, couldn’t get into the room because I didn’t have the key, put the martini into the greenery, went back downstairs and said I can’t get into my room, but they were like “we’ll help you”, but they can’t get into my room either, so can you go to the bar for a beer on us while we work it out? I’m like “certainly” (totally embarrassed). Some poor old employee gives me a key and says, “we got your key out from your room.” Shyte, the key was in the room. I’m a dumbass. So, here we are.”

On to Day 4, the final day of the ride.
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'06 Buell XB12X Ulysses; '07 H-D FXDB Dyna Street Bob

Solo Around Scotland (BMW R850R); AZ and UT (H-D Road King): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744536l; Death Valley & Vegas (BMW R1200GS): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=926499; NW Colorado (BMW K1200GT): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=955168
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:41 PM   #30
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Day Four - The Final Day Begins

DAY FOUR - Monday 9/3/07

I got moving around 10:45am, a late start. I needed to sleep. Yeah, something like that. What a weird night. I dragged myself out of the hotel, got onto the BMW, and got rolling upward out of the hotel’s garage. It was 10:57am with 816 total miles on my ride so far. I added three gallons in Aspen before leaving. There was a lot of time to make up.



I rolled on Route 82 Southeast out of Aspen, and then eastward to Route 24 north toward Independence Pass. It was a wonderfully curvy road, but I was waking up to a pretty gnarly hangover. It didn’t actually affect me until I got up into the clouds.













Next up...headache central...
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'06 Buell XB12X Ulysses; '07 H-D FXDB Dyna Street Bob

Solo Around Scotland (BMW R850R); AZ and UT (H-D Road King): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744536l; Death Valley & Vegas (BMW R1200GS): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=926499; NW Colorado (BMW K1200GT): http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=955168
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