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Old 04-26-2014, 04:51 PM   #61
scootrboi
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Hillbilly technique

Lower tailgate. Back up against a higher level of ground with several car tires in the bed of the truck. Drive motorcycle in bed of truck and lay it down on the tires. Add a few more tires to keep it from shifting, or tie the mtc in place. Works even better in a van.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:53 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by newbedonnie View Post
by far and away the best place to strap the front of the bike is from the front shocks extender tubes at the point where they meet the triple lower brace...
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:03 AM   #63
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Tyre Down - securing by the rear tyre & wheel, with front end butted up against bulkhead.


How to Load a Motorcycle Onto a Truck


Quote:
Dahveed6 months ago
It often helps if you can back the truck near a incline or bank. That reduces the steepness of the ramp
I agree with this. Either a depression for the truck's rear wheels to lower rear end, or a bank to reverse up to. Watch when mid-point goes over ramp-to-bed-end low point (although dirt bikes have greater clearance).
Ensure tyres have good grip on ramp surface.

Plan for just where the person in control of bike is going to be standing all through the loading.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:33 AM   #64
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These tie downs are great... the rotating part really helps out



I'm a short guy with a tall bike and usually ride solo, so I've had my share of mishaps loading/unloading.
I always have a milk crate to step on, otherwise, I can't walk into the truck bed (even though my truck is a little S-10). One time, I was moving a 500 lb bike, and when I stepped on the milk crate, it broke, hehe.
I normally use extra tie-down straps. Technically, you really only need two. But, after driving on some rough roads, I've had my rear wheel bounce all over the place if something in the rear isn't secured.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:06 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iggs View Post
I need to get to grips with loading, unloading and securing the bike in the back of my truck

Bike is a gas gas 450 and the truck is a 2010 extended cab silverado with a 6'6" bed

Any top tips, handy hints and photos gratefully received

Ian


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One last thought if no one brought it up - Slam the truck! A 4/5 drop will make loading a bike way easier.

No, I'm not kidding either. I did a 3/4 on my Ranger, way easier to load up.

Of course you could use bags too, to gain clearance. Drop it on the ground to load, then air up. A bit costly though, and at this point I might be kidding a bit too... but it actually would work!
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:06 PM   #66
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I used to have a house that the walk had steps down to the road that were EXACTLY the height up my F150's tail gate.

I miss that place
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:27 PM   #67
AlsoRan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iggs View Post
I need to get to grips with loading, unloading and securing the bike in the back of my truck

Bike is a gas gas 450 and the truck is a 2010 extended cab silverado with a 6'6" bed

Any top tips, handy hints and photos gratefully received

Ian


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The bike should go in straight on the drivers (left) side of the bed. That way when your driving you can see out the cabs review mirror and you vision is not blocked. If the tailgate won't close then swing the bikes rear wheel towards the back corner of the bed just enough to close it. Also if your weight combined with the bike causes the truck to lean then upgrade your suspension!

Always a good set of tie down's is a MUST. ANCRA's if you can find them used even will make a difference, but no cheap ones or the bike will eventually drop.

A crate makes a good step when pushing the bike up the ramp.
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:44 AM   #68
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:33 AM   #69
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First step when buying new tiedowns (always the soft-tie- they offer more tiedown options) is to cut off the hooks and replace them with real, honest-to-nonspecifichigherpower carabiners. Not the dollar-store type, not from the helpful hardware man. Climbing carabiners.

The will not get unclipped when going over bumps, and the don't need somsorta bungee cord treatment. They are strong enough to lift a car (ok, perhaps a light car) all on their own, and they simply work right.



On my trailer with front wheel chocks (and I suppose I could rig this in the truck) I use two short legnths of chain with carabiners on each end. The tie points on the trailer are near the footpegs. I lean the bike way over and clip the chain between the trailer and the low-side footpeg. I then lean the bike the other way, compressing the suspension in the process, and clip the other side in the same manner. With this setup, I don't even need tie-downs, but I use them for backup. I promise, the first time you use the 2-chain setup you'll never go back. Bike sits rock-solid.

I do use a heavy velcro strap (also with a real carabiner) around the rear wheels and down to the trailer bed as extra-special backup.
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Old 05-23-2014, 11:55 AM   #70
BillMoore
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I have wood blocks (actually a section of 4x6 with a 2x8 screwed into to make it 2" taller and to give a sturdy base) that I slide under the bike frame. The height of the blocks is such that there is less than an inch of clearance to the frame. Then I pull the bike down onto that with the tie-down straps, using 2 front and 2 rear straps. This is really helpful at taking the weight off the tailgate if you have a short bed truck like mine (5' bed). The weight of the bike ends up supported by the blocks, not the tailgate, and you are pulling the bike into the blocks rather than into the tailgate when you strap it down. I do the same thing when I use the trailer, since it makes the bikes so solid. Nothing moves once it is all strapped down, and the straps just need to be snug, not super tight (plus the suspension isn't under stress).
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