Yamaha TDM Riders

[AdvRich]

Originally Posted by Hank.SD

Again, many thanks for the pointers. I have (hopefully) all the parts I need ordered. I did not order the shaft seals or coil leads at this time as I'm thinking the main culprit was the choke needles. If you get a chance I'd love to see how your needles/washers/clips are arranged.

If you hadn't brought up the choke needles, I'd likely have never gone there. I've gone through the carbs multiple times, had a local mechanic with many years of experience also take a look (twice I think) and neither of us saw this.

Carb parts and valve shims hopefully within the week, then we'll give it a go and report back!

Hey Hank,

Yeah, happy to help. Thanks.

Here is a pic of the needle spacer/washer sequence. It was a bit of detective work as the bike had dynojet needles in it when I first opened it up. I believe this is the correct sequence though. The large metal washer underneath the plastic spacer is a friction fit and holds the plastic piece snug to the clip. There's also (not in the pic) a small metal washer that I put on top of the clip to act as a smooth bearing surface for the plastic insert that fits in the spring.

Also, two of the four old shaft seals which stiff and slightly formed compared to the new ones which are pliable. Also, an original throttle plate screw and a new allen one for comparison.

Hope this helps and yeah, a post on how it comes along would be good.

Cheers,
Rich

[AdvRich]

Originally Posted by Starkmojo

Hank have you replaced your fuel pump? I just did mine and it is way better at starting, idling cold and throttle response. I read quite a bit about this and was frankly skeptical. My experience with fuel pumps has been entirely on 4 wheeled vehicles and mechanical or electrical fuel pumps either work or do not work. I replaced mine mostly because it looked pretty old and as I want to moto in out of the way places I am trying to replace things likely to strand me out there. Also the fact that I could get one for wayyy less than stock didnt hurt.

Yesterday I replaced the pump as an afterthought. My main goal for the day was to take pictures of the swmotech rack so that the somewhere there would be some directions in English,. but I have the pump and while I am farting around in the garage I might as well and so I did... and what an amazing difference! No hard start, no missing at idle when cold, no "on off switch" feeling on the throttle. I am not saying that rebuilding the carbs isnt a good idea for you, but while you are at it you might want to consider the fuel pump. I took mine apart and the membrane was indeed badly stretched, and the lines were full of white powdery crud. From the thread over at carpeTDM my guess was that it was the original pump.

I was thinking about the why of this as I was drinking a beer and letting the bike idle for half an hour. (I wanted to test the fan on the radiator as this was the first day we have had near 70) and as best I can figure when the diaphram warps the pump has to suck harder to get the same amount of fuel, which robs the carbs of the vacuum they need do their thing. so in situations where a strong "pull" from the carbs is needed (like when cold, going up a long grade or 1/4 throttle the fuel pump steals enough suction that the carbs cannot force gas through the needle- so you got WOT, create enough suction to feed both the carbs and the pump and suddenly you feel like your doing a carrier take off, Now it accelerates smoooooth from 1500 to the redline in any gear with new fuel pump.

Glad to hear the new pump is working great for ya. I'm the same with getting stuff sorted so I can ride more and not get stranded out in the boonies on some of the more remote rides.

Cheers,
Rich

[AdvRich]

Starkmojo, I forgot to mention about your reference to SW Motech rack. I don't have the rack, but I do have the pannier mounts if that's any help with installation info.

[fnord]

Picked me up a purty, new (old ass) tdm a couple weeks ago and finally got some proper pictures this weekend. Loving this bike so far. I've had this thread bookmarked for like 3 years, now I finally get to use it. Threw some brand new shinko 705's on it after a long tire search and they seem awesome.

[AdvRich]

Nice looking scoot and good looking pics too.

[zeribas]

Originally Posted by rackam_le_rouge

Installation of optical bi-xenon with angel eye Thank you iz4dja

Hello, I'm doing exactly the same mod, same bike and same hid projector, should I expect any known problems on this instalation? Thanks.

[Starkmojo]

Originally Posted by AdvRich

Starkmojo, I forgot to mention about your reference to SW Motech rack. I don't have the rack, but I do have the pannier mounts if that's any help with installation info.

I got them on. I was just irritated at the lack of directions in English. I also thought that the lack of a longer bolt for the mount that attaches to the exhaust mount was short sighted and frankly kinda dangerous. With the stock bolt only about 1/2 the threading of the nut is being used. This means the nut is more likely to come of and the bolt is more prone to shearing.

[AdvRich]

The bolt was too short on the muffler side on mine too with the Staintune. I bought a longer allen bolt and self locker nut. The other side worked out good without the muffler tab.

The rear tab bracket uses the plastic fender and license plate as a mount point and it's a bit jiggly. At some point, I'd like to modify it so it is beefier for some of the longer gravel/dirt sections I'd like to run.

[Starkmojo]

I had to remove the lisence plate holder and drill new mounnts into the rear fender to make it work on my bike. The aftermarket plate holder that came with my bike did not have the right spacing. Also they are not shitting about the loctite- I drove 100 miles on pavement without loctite ( I didnt have any on assembly day and once I knew I would have to take it apart again anyway for the exhaust bolts I figured I might as well figure out how to put the damn thing together) and half the bolts were looser!

For the exhaust I used flanger 8mm x 1.25x 50mm with self locking nuts- pretty much exactly the same as the ones already there but longer. I could shorten them a little but I saw no interference so I suspect that shortning them will go on the "sure I will get to it someday" list of things to do... it is a pretty long list.

The other thing I would never have figured out is the use of the little circlips if I didnt have a complete set that came with the boxes. They attach to keep the quick releases from flying off should they ever dissengage. Bet it would suck to have to find a small black bolt on tarmac somewhere- probably at night too with my luck.

I just think a diagram with some directions or even just some pictures would be great. I spent a good hour just getting the orientation down before starting installation.

[rackam_le_rouge]

Originally Posted by zeribas

Hello, I'm doing exactly the same mod, same bike and same hid projector, should I expect any known problems on this instalation? Thanks.

Hi Zeribas

That is more than 6 months that this assembly works. Never had any problems, electric alternator or battery.

[zeribas]

Originally Posted by rackam_le_rouge

Hi Zeribas

That is more than 6 months that this assembly works. Never had any problems, electric alternator or battery.

Hello rackam_le_rouge, thanks for your reply... I'm talking about some problems in the instalation itself, any kind of troubles... the projector went well? Did you had to make some hole? Is it really plug and play? Thanks once again... :)

[rackam_le_rouge]

Hi Zeribas

Viewing this tutorial from the TDM Greek forum. --> http://www.tdmhellas.gr/smf/index.ph...&topic=18712.0

[ssregal39]

curious if i could get from someone, the key code from a stock key and the tag code from the ignition cylinder. from a 93 model year. I need it for a code starting point.

i'm trying to get new keys made. the key that came with the bike is a toyota key. it does not engage the steering lock tumblers. so, at some point a previous owner lost the original key and made something work.

thanks in advance!!!

[zeribas]

Originally Posted by rackam_le_rouge

Hi Zeribas

Viewing this tutorial from the TDM Greek forum. --> http://www.tdmhellas.gr/smf/index.ph...&topic=18712.0

Thanks.

[Muddler]

Did my first oil change on my 2002 TDM today. Previous owner had overfilled it, I presume because he didn't understand how to check dry sump bikes. However, I must admit to being a bit confused too, the manual says "total amount 4.7l, without filter 3.8l, with filter 3.9l". It's usually another 100ml when you swap the oil filter, so my bet was on 3.9l. Bloody ambiguous though. Maybe the previous guy assumed he had to put in 4.7l?
Now, on the checking procedure, I took the bike for a 15 min ride, turned off and let it sit for a few minutes before checking. My query is how long can I leave it until I have to take it for a run again? (ie. does the tank slowly drain back to the sump?).