ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-03-2005, 05:00 PM   #1
datchew OP
Don't buy from Brad
 
datchew's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Savannah - the dirty south
Oddometer: 7,408
found oil seep. bad?? (pic included)

After cleaning up this evening, i found where there's been a seep for awhile (apparently) due to a buildup of oil and road grime.

I cleaned it off and will monitor it, but wanted to know if this is a big deal.
See graphic below:

http://www.datchew.com/r100/r100-engine.jpg


well, though hosted, i cannot seem to post a graphic.
tried the "[img]www.website.com[img] and tried the little button on the menu by teh smiley faces, but neither worked. you'll just have to click on the link




datchew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 05:06 PM   #2
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,999
seems like a pushrod seal. Not a big deal. Sometimes, if I'm sending the bike in for a valve adjust, I'll ask them to either change it, or pound it in a little harder. It just makes my engines dirty, but it only offends my aestetics.
__________________
Unintentional psychokinesis.
Stagehand is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 05:15 PM   #3
JamesJWeg
"Speedy"
 
JamesJWeg's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Edgefield, SC
Oddometer: 1,736
I wouldn't worry about it, but all my bikes stay dirty as hell.

James.
__________________
Hold my beer and watch this!
http://pics.jamesjweg.com
00100
JamesJWeg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 05:24 PM   #4
BlackHoof
REMF
 
BlackHoof's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Upper USA, Mn. eh
Oddometer: 244
Weepy Push Rod Seals

Ed Korn will sell you a tool to help pound these seals back in, which
will work unless the rubber is too old & hard.
BlackHoof is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 05:25 PM   #5
Rubber Cow
GS Dork
 
Rubber Cow's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Aloha... yes, Aloha, Oregon
Oddometer: 5,335
According to the best of BMW mechanincs there are "seeps" , "weeps" and "leaks".
You have pushrod tube leak of some type ....they are very common and easy to replace if you know your way around a torque wrench and a Clymer manual. You'll need to remove the cylinder, change the pushrod tube seals and cyclinder o-rings. The you'll have to recompress the piston rings and re-seal the cylinder to the block followed by a valve train reassemble and adjustment and head retorque.....You can open up a can of worms or you can wipe your motor down every so often ....
It's a great job for a tech day.
Cheers,
Jorge
__________________
"He had that rare weird electricity about him--that extremely wild and heavy presence that you only see in a person who has abandoned all hope of ever behaving"normally"."
HST-RIP

"Woof, woof woof woof ...woof woof!!!!!!!!!"
Cricket the Dog-RIP
Rubber Cow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 06:01 PM   #6
Bigger Al
Still a stupid tire guy
 
Bigger Al's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Auburn, CA
Oddometer: 7,727
Pushrod tube seals are simple to replace, and can be done without completely removing the cylinder from the bike. Go to www.airheads.org and check out the tech resources and links.
__________________
"I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on Earth."

Steve McQueen




Bigger Al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 07:12 PM   #7
Rubber Cow
GS Dork
 
Rubber Cow's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Aloha... yes, Aloha, Oregon
Oddometer: 5,335
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Al
Pushrod tube seals are simple to replace, and can be done without completely removing the cylinder from the bike. Go to www.airheads.org and check out the tech resources and links.
Ah yes...the lazy way....I've done this twice and regretted not doing it right with both.
To each their own.
Cheers,
Jorge
__________________
"He had that rare weird electricity about him--that extremely wild and heavy presence that you only see in a person who has abandoned all hope of ever behaving"normally"."
HST-RIP

"Woof, woof woof woof ...woof woof!!!!!!!!!"
Cricket the Dog-RIP
Rubber Cow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 08:09 PM   #8
ducsingle
Studly Adventurer
 
ducsingle's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Bellevue, WA
Oddometer: 519
On the later model airheads, I don't think you can tighten the pushrod seals by banging on the pushrod tube rings as the rings are brazed to the tubes. On the earlier airheads this was an option though.

If you recently switched to synthetic oil, switch back to dino-juice and see if the weep goes away after a couple of oil changes. The PO of my ST switched to Mobil 1 and the seals started leaking. I went back to standard stuff and everything was okay.
ducsingle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2005, 04:51 AM   #9
elmoreman
takin' a break, boss
 
elmoreman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Elmore, VT
Oddometer: 1,767
How Much?

No need to repeat where the leak is coming from, but I suggest you get some kind of manual - this is an extremely common seep. I had a '71 /5 that used to spit oil on my left boot, but it was worse over 60 mph and when the oil level was topped up. I would suggest that if you dont notice any oil dripping underneath the bike when parked or on your boot (or flip flops) when riding, leave it alone. Its not unusual for things to get worse when you try to fix them. From what I understand, the "bang it in a little more" trick works pretty well, too.
elmoreman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2005, 04:56 AM   #10
Rubber Cow
GS Dork
 
Rubber Cow's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Aloha... yes, Aloha, Oregon
Oddometer: 5,335
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducsingle
On the later model airheads, I don't think you can tighten the pushrod seals by banging on the pushrod tube rings as the rings are brazed to the tubes. On the earlier airheads this was an option though.

If you recently switched to synthetic oil, switch back to dino-juice and see if the weep goes away after a couple of oil changes. The PO of my ST switched to Mobil 1 and the seals started leaking. I went back to standard stuff and everything was okay.
Yep. The later models have a brazed collar on the push rod tubes that presses against the seal. I've never found that tapping this version stops leaks. The synthetic tip is key. Go for plain old 20/50 dyno-oil and you'll likely not have as many seeping problems on these motors.
__________________
"He had that rare weird electricity about him--that extremely wild and heavy presence that you only see in a person who has abandoned all hope of ever behaving"normally"."
HST-RIP

"Woof, woof woof woof ...woof woof!!!!!!!!!"
Cricket the Dog-RIP
Rubber Cow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2005, 05:41 AM   #11
jtwind
Wisconsin Airhead
 
jtwind's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Madison WI
Oddometer: 3,482
You can't tap in the later model pushrod seals. And it was a temp fix on the ones you could, the seals get hard and just don't seal well. To replace them is about a hour to and hour and a half each side. You will need new cylinder and stud o rings and head gaskets besides the seals themselves, they are the cheap part. Check out snowbums website for a complete description of the work. Many folks decarbon their heads and piston tops every couple of years so its a good time to do that also. I don't know how many miles are on the bike but new piston rings are also a idea if it's got more that 60-70 thou. JT
jtwind is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2005, 06:28 AM   #12
Bigger Al
Still a stupid tire guy
 
Bigger Al's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Auburn, CA
Oddometer: 7,727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubber Cow
Ah yes...the lazy way....I've done this twice and regretted not doing it right with both.
To each their own.
Cheers,
Jorge
Sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities, Jorge. I've been doing it this way on Airheads for 20 years. If one has the time, then by all means remove the cylinder and do a thorough cleanup at the same time. De-carboning the piston, perhaps new rings and a hone, disassembly of the head, etc., are all easy jobs. The question that was asked concerned a weeping seal, which can easily and quickly be replaced, leaving more opportunity to ride.
__________________
"I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on Earth."

Steve McQueen




Bigger Al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2005, 06:40 AM   #13
Rubber Cow
GS Dork
 
Rubber Cow's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Aloha... yes, Aloha, Oregon
Oddometer: 5,335
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Al
Sorry to offend your delicate sensibilities, Jorge. I've been doing it this way on Airheads for 20 years. If one has the time, then by all means remove the cylinder and do a thorough cleanup at the same time. De-carboning the piston, perhaps new rings and a hone, disassembly of the head, etc., are all easy jobs. The question that was asked concerned a weeping seal, which can easily and quickly be replaced, leaving more opportunity to ride.

Nothing delicate and no need to apologize....sincerely or not...
I was given the same advice from two long-time experts years ago, twenty in fact almost to the month and it simply didn't work then or a few years later on another airhead. I've helped several friends with the same issue had the same results on their airheads. It has work once for me on an older airhead without the brazed collars and then it was for about a month until the weather cooled off and the rubber hardened.
Just my $.02
Cheers,
Jorge
__________________
"He had that rare weird electricity about him--that extremely wild and heavy presence that you only see in a person who has abandoned all hope of ever behaving"normally"."
HST-RIP

"Woof, woof woof woof ...woof woof!!!!!!!!!"
Cricket the Dog-RIP
Rubber Cow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2005, 07:59 AM   #14
Malindi
Zen Adventurer
 
Malindi's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC
Oddometer: 5,383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubber Cow
The you'll have to recompress the piston rings and re-seal the cylinder to the block Jorge
You can remove the cylinder without removing the piston. Just keep it inside far enough to allow removal of the piston pin, but no far enough for the rings to show.
__________________
Back in YVR after riding around the world for 2 years. www.nohorizons.net
Malindi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2005, 09:35 AM   #15
datchew OP
Don't buy from Brad
 
datchew's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Savannah - the dirty south
Oddometer: 7,408
Well, i didn't ever expect to get so much feedback.
Most of my other questions took quite a while to get anything.
However, thanks much. I now know lots and lots on this pushrod seal.
Will get it taken care of one way or another.

2 questions:
What is tech day?
What is snowbums? Did a google, but didnt' get anything about motorcycles.
datchew is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014