03 625 Sxc Rebuild To An Adventure/rallye Bike

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by wrk2surf, Dec 28, 2008.

  1. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    I have been putting parts aside to be able to convert my sxc to an adventure/rallyebike for a 6 months or so and at my last stage rallye my crank conrod bearing went half way through the day so hope you like the ADVENTURE! :evil

    During the stage that the bike started klack klakin

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    Just after the Mt Hood Rally.


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    I wont bore you with disassembly but the last photo of the sxc that went a hard 40-50 THOUSAND miles.





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    A photo of the broken motor and a newly powdercoated 02 Adventure frame with the extra quart of oil I was looking for... and a newly resprung revalved shock done by inmate zerodog of Infinity Werks and also you might see a extra triple for the 48s but that will have to wait till spring and the 43s will have to do.

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Nice. I scored a used 48mm triple which I was keeping as a backup for my 04 SXC.

    So you did 40+k miles on the original (no oil in frame) motor? Impressive. You said the motor is broken, how? Also, out of curiosity and not wanting to start an oil thread, what was your oil choice and change interval?

    BTW, anyone got a complete SXC wiring harness. I think I need one.
    #2
  3. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    The big end of the rod and crankpin have considerable damage to them, while the rod bearing was not so bad, piston was done from the slappy slap but the cylinder was serviceable. Pro-X makes a conrod kit cheaper than OEM that I went with and Wossner makes a piston replacement I got through LA Sleeve for much cheaper than the stocker plus much nicer. Just waiting on bearings, gaskets and some other odds and end like oil lines.








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    The frame, fork , swingarm rebuilt with new bearings rebuilt shock, a new linkage (almost cheaper than getting all the bearings).
    #3
  4. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    I see a listing for the Pro-X conrod kit at LA Sleeve but I don't see a listing for the Wossner piston kit... Is the piston a direct drop in stock replacement or does it require a resleeve/replate? How much under OEM price are they?
    #4
  5. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    WoSSner makes a direct drop plus two others and a 660 101mm .

    The least Ive seen for a stocker is 280.00usd and the wossner was 219.00 shipped. When I get it back with the cylinder I will post an image of it.

    some more [​IMG]

    gettin there
    [​IMG]
    #5
  6. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    I'm in! :clap

    Bike looks great so far. What do you have planned besides the Adventure tank, are you putting on a fairing?
    #6
  7. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    :lurk
    #7
  8. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    Lucas, You can see the headlight triom or bracket just in front of the tank. I need mounting bushings to check fitment on the faring.

    heres a newer one where I have refitted the harness and put a new galfer front hose and got rid of the "espresso" brake fluid and put the lightly sprayed radiators. looks like in the photo not enough on the fins to cover the 5 yrs of Sierra red dirt but it looks good in person and I didnt want to overload it with paint. Plus its a BIAtch to paint when it never gets over 40 degrees that why the radiator guard and light bracket arent black yet. Just got word that the crank will be here the 7th so just need to get 6 bearings out of the cases so I can have those coated.







    [​IMG]
    #8
  9. Ned1

    Ned1 Lend Me Yu Choppa

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    This is the highest mileage SXC I've heard of....:clap

    I'm coming up on 20k miles and hope to see another 20k now that I've done the cam and valve rocker bearing replacement.
    #9
  10. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    cam and bearings at 35,000 with the autodeco pin worn out


    Thats why I went with the adventure frame for the oil. On that note when I first dipped into the "oil conundrum" I used the rotella flavor then finally listened to my friend cevquit the machinist and went to the Mobil 1 15-50 gold cap and changed every 1000 to 1500 mi, filters every other change.

    The more I look at parts fiches I see the newer models have an extra oil line that goes from lower rear filter to the front of the case near or at the crankshaft locking nut in front and would love to do a mod like that but now I just need my bike back and will look into it once the bike is done and raceable.

    Hope to start the motor work next week as parts are on their way!

    I also noted that the oil valve piston on the bottom near the drain seemed to be "stuck" in the up postiton and didnt seem to want to come out without some work, Lucky they made a hole to pull it down. My oil pumps will be replaced during the rebuild as well as one seems to be sluggish and they are only 60.00 each.
    #10
  11. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Thanks for this info. I use the gold cap every 1500 miles also but change the filter every time. Maybe I'll follow your lead and switch to every other .... now if I can just figure out why the charging system is foobared.
    #11
  12. Roarin

    Roarin Adventurer

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    Check the wires coming in and going out of the voltage regulator/rectifier. Mine have vibrated enough for them to crack inside the insulation and cause intermittent charging. Took me a long while to figure that one out:huh They cracked just past the rubber insulation on the rec/reg. Hope this helps
    #12
  13. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    I don't want to tangent this thread, I started a thread on it a few weeks ago. my problem a few weeks ago. I don't think I'm having your issue (see comment about how the direct RR-battery bypass fixed it) but if anyone has any advice I'm all ears.

    Anyways, back to this interesting rebuild thread.

    wrk2srf ... any chance for some good closeup pics as you go through the rebuild? I've not tore into the motor beyond just resealing the rocker cover (clearly not very far) and the stuff you're talking about doing, it would be great if you could document it for those of us who aren't as motor savvy. Realize it's asking a lot.
    #13
  14. cevquit

    cevquit maphead

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    those were HARD MILES too
    #14
  15. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    Well got some parts back and 1 round of 3 orders in. (crank, bearings, seals). Also got the reniked cylinder back. Heres some of the goodies and shots of the Wossner next to the ELKO.

    [​IMG]
    prox conrod repair

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    cylinder and piston ready to go
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    [​IMG]
    tapered outside edges and some scoring on the old one
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    some sharp knife edges on the bottom




    I also did some seat shaping losing a few inches front to back on the Adv seat and added a Dzus fitting spot like the ol SXC.


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    Not a selle della valle but it'll do... just need a timecard pocket sewn to the front of cover.

    Now Im waiting on some oil pumps, gasket set, seals, sight glass and the motor should be being rebuilt in 2 weeks or so.
    #15
  16. laramie LC4

    laramie LC4 crash test dummy!

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    looking good!

    laramie :beer
    #16
  17. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    I just got back the motor from a friend that works for a powder company. It looks really nice but What a PAIN IN THE ASS! They had to do it 3 times and when I got it back it was oversprayed all over where it didnt need to be.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    now the head has to go back to be cleaned up after having the valves re-ground.

    It looks like I have some steel wooling and emeryclothing to do today! Hopefully we will be pressing bearings and shimming in the crank this weekend ...stay tuned
    #17
  18. dwayne

    dwayne Silly Adventurer

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    You don't need to press bearings into the cases on these.

    Heat the cases to 150 c or about 300 f in the oven and the old bearings fall out. Of couse you will have your new bearings in the freezer, and they drop right in (maybe just a little tapping). I acutally used just a little less heat (280ish to be safe). This is the procedure from my manual.

    you can freeze your seals as well, and when the time comes to install, it is much easier.
    #18
  19. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    thanks heat and cold are your friend! I have heard that if you dont have a freezer close you can use dry ice. I already have the hotplate :evil
    #19
  20. dwayne

    dwayne Silly Adventurer

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    if you use a hotplate, use a sheet of flat steel, and set the case gasket side down, so you maxiumixe the surface area touching the sheet. You don't want to apply heat locally (unevenly) because you might warp the cases.
    #20