06 ADV 1st Wrenching Nightmare

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by pitbull doug, Apr 20, 2006.

  1. pitbull doug

    pitbull doug Been here awhile

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    Well just got my 06 adv last week happy as can be,until I thought Id try changing the main jet.Ive read many threads on this topic thought it would be pretty easy,wrong!Ive changed jets etc on my 525mxc and my 300exc no brainer.I knew from threads it was a little pain in the ass,but what a nightmare.Can anyone refer me to a specific thread on the best way to access the bst40.I took back airboot to airbox out still couldnt get that SOB free so than loosened the sub frame to access better,had to take my pipe off etc to pivot subframe.Got to be a easier way?.Now Im having a problem returning subframe to mainframe by the top two bolts where the rubber tank pads are which one ripped to add to my misery.The problem is the two flanges on sub frame should seat to the outside of flanges on main frame,but the flange on the right is butting in line with the one on the main frame making not possible to go back to proper position.Any tricks getting that subframe flanges spreading them to return over mainframe flange?.In theory it should just pivot right back!Any help would be great.
    Thanks Doug
    00 300exc
    03 525mxc
    06 640 adv
    #1
  2. Buckster

    Buckster Banned

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    Creeper should know, he takes his apart and licks it clean every Sunday.
    #2
  3. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Fixed.

    First off, why did you want to remove the carb? To access the main jet you simply use a stubby or 90 degree screwdriver to open the cap on the bottom of the carb (drain the bowl first and shutoff the gas eh? :D). The main jet sits just inside casually awaiting quick changes.

    To access the other parts of the carb that are generally well accepted as standard mods you simply remove the tank (close the petcock and the crossover valves (x2) first eh? :lol3) and the top of the carb is awaiting your tool. The slide and jet needle are sitting just under the diaphram. Like you wife has probably said a hundred times, don't pinch the diaphram!!!

    I have read once or twice that folks trying to access a third jet, what was it the idle jet can do so by (I think) unhooking the airbox and reaching it from there... but I had better find that thread first to make sure WTF I am talkin' about. And besides, changes to the idle jet are not generally considered standard. That brings up a good point: remember to do these thing sequentially, so you know the effect of each mod (both in and of itself and in concert with the other changes you did previously).

    Now WTF was the rest of your question? Ah, I have not removed my carb, but creeper has and he told me if you have to you should be able to free it by bending the boot that connects it to the engine (already disconnected from the airbox eh?). Or was it vice versa... :scratch But you don't have to move the rear subframe!!!

    I have also read of folks having trouble getting the rear subframe back on... I think you will have to have someone help you put it under tension to get it to line up so you can fasten it. But that thread should also be found. Bummer, since you didn't have to do this! :cry

    So in conclusion, the standard mods are not a nightmare; they are easy. Not knowing WTF you are doing is a nightmare. I know; I have been there and probably will be there again real soon. :wave
    #3
  4. pitbull doug

    pitbull doug Been here awhile

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    Thanks meat for the help.My approach was the same as my 525 loosen intake and airboot tilt carb at 45 or so for a visual of jets, but with 640adv not so due to frame being in the way.So I called mechanic at dealer and asked him and he told to pivot subframe, !st mistake listening to that advice?I just wanted to see wtf I was doing hence my motive for a visual.My bikes still in pieces due the fact that I cant get subframe to line up on flanges on main frame right where you bolt next to rubber tank pads on top next to airbox any assistance would be appreciated.It aint easy lining that sob up.Any tricks out there?
    #4
  5. rjf

    rjf SBS's #1 fan in January

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    .
    #5
  6. rjf

    rjf SBS's #1 fan in January

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    I had the same issue. I lined it up as best I could then got my assistant to give it a big force full shove forward.
    #6
  7. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    There is nothing to see in regards to the jets - did you change the main yet? see how available it is w/out removing the carb (by design...)?

    Anyways, here is the thread with some tips on the subframe; worked for one fella: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126636

    And here is one discussion of carb tuning that shows the third jet:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120876

    Others:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87863
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87250

    Can't find creeper's blurb on removing the carb, but perhaps he will show up before I find it later.
    #7
  8. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    Remove tank, disconnect everything attached to the carb, pull back airbox boot, pull carb back out of intake spigot, pull carb out thru the top between frame rails.

    Thats it,
    C
    #8
  9. pitbull doug

    pitbull doug Been here awhile

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    Hey Thanks for the help guys.Subframe problem solved used a C clamp to pinch in flanges on main frame then subframe slide on, lining up of bolts was a bit of battle but won the war.Meat thanks for the links very helpful.Think I am missing something on the removal of carb through fork in frame up top on 06 adv, I think without pivoting back of airbox.Black plastic box/w wire on right side & throttle cables on left seem to have to be removed to physically get carb out top between frame,a lot of work to exit carb for this old dog.

    Thanks again, Doug
    00 300exc
    03 525mxc
    06 640adv
    #9
  10. AndyB

    AndyB Lonely Traveler

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    "Remove tank, disconnect everything attached to the carb, pull back airbox boot, pull carb back out of intake spigot, pull carb out thru the top between frame rails."

    Easy as Creeper describes above, abit tedious but not that hard to do.
    BUT be sure to refit choke cable to carb before refitting carb into boots. Was esay enough to take out But DAMN! was bitch to get the plastic piece re threaded.
    !!!AND make sure to stuff a rag or baggie over boot on motor. BECAUSE if the jet comes free of the cable and falls off and lands on the edge of the boot pecariously ready to fall into the motor! WHEW that would really really suck!
    #10
  11. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Doug,
    Woke up this morning with the aftermath of a flu that caused evacuation from every hole. My attitude-bad. Like you had dc'd the subframe to get at the carb and it was time to put things back together, I was in no mood for a jigsaw puzzle thought up by Hitler's spawn.
    Like you I had problems with the frame tabs hitting the subframe rails.
    OK, I was pissed. Really pissed after dicking with it for 10 minutes. Hammer. First I loosened the lower subframe bolts a couple of turns, Next I got out the file out and filed off the square edges on both interfering edges and then got the big punch and hammer out of the box. Three good wacks on each frame tab, medium force seemed about right. Add a dab of oil and now and things will slide into place just like Hitler and Eva used to.
    Seriously I agree with you. It is way easier to work around the carb if you pivot the subframe back and it should be "set up" so it comes apart and goes back together easily. The exhaust pipe bolt had been stripped by a PO so that gave a little problem but I rethreaded it. I used antiseize on the clamp and the muffler connection. Locktite everything brother and fixit right next time with the hammer.
    Bill in Tomahawk, WI.
    #11
  12. pitbull doug

    pitbull doug Been here awhile

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    Hey Andyb thanks for the info pretty much the same as what Creeper said,one question do you remove throttle cable assembly on left and little black box (plastic/w wire) on right side of carb /w soldered screws,seems on my 06 adv you would have too, to clear frame.Im wondering if my carb has more crap on it for calif smog shit for 06?Sorry for the dumbass questions, this 640adv is a learning thing for me, compared to my 525 which is much easier to work on.The carb area on the 640 06 is a cluster f---.Ktm Bill it feels good that I wasnt the only one dealing with that subframe to mainframe issue,glad you got yours on,at least we got a handle on it for next time.
    Thanks again doug

    00 300exc
    03 525mxc
    06 640adv proud owner!!
    #12
  13. kiwipeet

    kiwipeet Uber Cyber Loafer

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    Bump for an oldie but a goodie. I'm just having fun and games doing this myself today. Nice to have a simple sequence of events to follow.

    Previously when we refit my sub frame we used a reversed C cramp, which spreads instead of squeezes. and applied it just behind the where the sub-frame bolt holes are. It doesn't take a lot of pressure to spread the subframe 1-2mm, just enough to help it slip on.

    Updated key words to help search engines to find next time:
    KTM LC4 640 Adv carburetor removal instructions (American spelling)
    KTM LC4 640 Adv carburettor removal instructions (Commonwealth spelling)
    KTM LC4 640 Adv carburetter removal instructions (Commonwealth spelling)


    Right... now it's time to get may arse back out to the shed and apply what I just learned...
    #13
  14. ADpete

    ADpete Been here awhile

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    Practice , I'v found that there is a certain order to my 640ADV . Some times it involves removing unrelated parts to the job at hand before I service the part I'm after . For the main jets of my carb. I would remove the carb. altogether . This would give me chance to clean and inspect it thoroughly . For me this will go in this order , seat , sceen , tank , all hoses and wires to the carb. , remove nuts and bolts to boot clamps and then twist carb. and take it up between the rails of subframe (I do not undo the suframe ) . All parts are cleaned including hoses , vent tubes , cable contectors (I had a elec. problem are atrip to speed week I mist a plug and the dust and salt broke the conection cleaned it problem solved ) . Putting the carb. back will be the revers . Every job I do any part removed is cleaned in parts washer (best money ever spent ) before going back on . At home any contoction opened is cleaned with contact cleaner . I mite be over the top but on the track the few problems are solved quickly and easily . I'm not sure if this will help but the first few time were a night mare for me too it's much easier now thow , practice.:wink:
    #14
  15. silentboarder69

    silentboarder69 Adventurer

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    So, whilst riding the A2 from Myales to Nairobi, my subframe decided to pop out, pulling the carb off the engine. Obviously, being in the middle of Africa, on my own, you have to work things out yourself.

    So, armed with a ratchet strap and a tire lever, it took all of two minutes, here's a pic:


    OK, so not so clever now as I can't get the link in. But you tie the luggage rack to the handle bar, then ratchet it up...
    #15
  16. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Boarder, I gotta see that picture!!!

    Upload your pics to Photobucket(free to open an account)...

    http://photobucket.com/

    Copy the bottom tag and then paste them in your post.

    Works well and is free.

    bill
    #16