07 bandit 1250 2 batteries in 3 weeks

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by andrewsclues, May 11, 2013.

  1. Yamarocket630

    Yamarocket630 Honey Badger

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    You're right, as a matter of fact. I was WAY TOO HIGH on my estimate. I just checked a modern fuel injected, digital cluster bike. 0.000217 amps. (that's 0.2 miliamps) It actually varied from 0.000210 to 0.000268a. Modern cars with 30+ control units draw 0.01 to 0.025 amps. And don't try to tell me my meter isn't working right. Go check a modern bike for yourself.
    #21
  2. Motomedic

    Motomedic Long timer

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    For the record Mr. Yamarocket, I DO check modern bikes all the time. I've been a motorcycle mechanic (notice the username perchance?) for about 20 years now.

    I really wasn't trying to be specific on exactly how much a bike draws. We're trying to troubleshoot here, not quantify the exact draw. Sure, my modern KTM 950 (or is a '04 not "modern" enough?) probably draws less than .01 amps, but do I really care? No. If the battery goes dead, I start looking for issues. I know there's going to be some draw for the clock, etc, but I'm more interested in finding a short, not worrying about a milliamp or two here and there. .2 amps is a decent GENERAL starting point, and usually within a cheap meter's resolution. No offense to the OP's tools, his meter isn't exactly a Fluke. With an average moto battery being around 14 amp/hours, a .2 amp draw will kill that battery in about 70 hours, give or take a few minutes (or in your case, seconds :D)

    In hindsight, I suppose my sarcastic remark about points bikes was a little off the cuff, but again, we're troubleshooting a bike on the internet, not the lab. My bad.

    Once again, every manufacturer is a little different. That's why the manual, which I do believe I mentioned, is the best reference for how much the bike should draw with the key off.
    #22
  3. Yamarocket630

    Yamarocket630 Honey Badger

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    Edit... Not going to argue
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  4. andrewsclues

    andrewsclues Been here awhile

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    Update... I picked up a new meter at Home Depot... a Klein MM200. And the ammeter function works. I am on the right track regarding that.

    The bike's battery would not charge above 11.5 volts. I have two, older and cheaper chargers. One told me the battery was fully charged and the other gave me an error light. Could both chargers be faulty? Possible, but I am leaning toward a bad battery. I returned the battery to the store where I bought it and they happily gave me a new one.

    I won't have time to connect the battery and look for "parasitic draw" (I learned a new phrase!) until Friday or Saturday.

    Again thanks everyone for your help. Electrical stuff is really Greek to me so it is really appreciated.

    More updates to come...
    #24
  5. BossMaverick

    BossMaverick Been here awhile

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    There was a recall on the '08 and '09 model year Bandit 1250's like mine (good choice of bike by the way). There is some info on it here: http://www.motorcycle.com/news/suzuki-recalls-73426-motorcycles-90452.html

    According to that article, Bandits made from July '07 on had the defective part so your bike may have somehow got the bad part depending on your build date. If you find a parasitic draw, you might want to check the regulator/rectifier to see if it is the culprit.
    #25
  6. andrewsclues

    andrewsclues Been here awhile

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    I will definitely check the rectifier.... that's some good info.
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  7. andrewsclues

    andrewsclues Been here awhile

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    I just installed the new battery.... reads 12.71 v on the meter.

    There is 0.014 amps of key-off parasitic draw when tested. I cannot find the spec in the bandit shop manual as to what this reading should ideally be. From reading comments from you guys, 0.014A should be OK.

    Anyone disagree?
    #27
  8. Motomedic

    Motomedic Long timer

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    .014 should be okay as far as parasitic draw. Have you checked the rectifier?
    #28
  9. Twilight Error

    Twilight Error Going nowhere slowly

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    .014A is fine, it should take a month in cold weather to pull the battery down like you're experiencing. The next suspect is your charging system, start with the R/R, those are easy to replace and less expensive than a new alternator.
    #29
  10. andrewsclues

    andrewsclues Been here awhile

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    Charging system seems fine... 13.8v at idle, doesn't go above 14.3 when I rev the throttle. I'm hoping it was a bad battery. I will test voltage tomorrow morning to see if I lost any juice in the battery.
    thanks.
    #30
  11. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    your numbers look good....

    a 14milliAmp draw.... on a 14 amp hour battery (pretty close) then it would theoretically take 1000 hours to drain it
    #31
  12. andrewsclues

    andrewsclues Been here awhile

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    I've been checking the voltage every morning, and it hasn't dropped below 12.9v. Either the last battery I got was faulty, or there is an intermittent parasitic draw. I guess I'm good to go.
    #32