08' Hypermotard 1100S Not Charging Properly

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by conlysm, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    I have an 08' HM1100S (Hypermotard) that is not charging properly.

    Before replacing any parts I was charging at 13.4V

    I replaced the stator with an aftermarket one but that did not change the charging voltage (still at 13.4V)

    I replaced the rectifier or voltage regulator and now I am at 13.9-14.0V

    If I check the output right at the rectifier I get 14.3V

    I have checked the ground and I do not suspect the battery to be the problem, initially I was thinking I have a weak or dieing cell in the battery. I tried a new battery (which was temporary because it was going into a friends bike). This was the first thing I tried before replacing any other parts and there was no change in voltage.

    I do work on bikes for friends occasionally so I am a pretty competent mechanic but this problem has me stumped.

    Anyone ever run into / come across this?

    Thanks in advance.

    FYI the bike was purchased new, still has original Yuasa battery, bike is pretty much bone stock aside of a speedo-healer, FatDuc O2 Eliminator and an aftermarket airbox lid."
    #1
  2. KeithinSC

    KeithinSC Long timer

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    Are you sure the battery is still good? Have it load tested or swap it for a known good one. 5-6 yrs for a bike battery, you are on borrowed time.

    Unhook the battery, check the voltage. Leave it unhooked for a day or so and check again.

    Or, do you have any parasitic load on the bike? With everything off, check for current draw. Hook a test light in line with the (+) lead of the battery. It should not light up if everything is off.

    Good luck exorcising the gremlins:freaky
    #2
  3. CycleDoc59

    CycleDoc59 Wrench Rider

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    You say the regulator is putting out 14.4v.
    Then the wire from the regulator to the battery,
    (usually goes to the starter relay) is too small.

    I have found this problem of a couple of bikes; the
    original factory wire is too small, resulting in a voltage drop.

    Confirm this by connecting a temporary jumper. Then run a small
    additional wire from the regulator output to the starter relay,
    or directly to the battery.
    #3
  4. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    The first thing I did was try a new battery, I was working on a friends bike who needed a new battery so I ordered it, filled it, charged it and tried it in my bike first to trouble shoot, problem still existed with no changes (this is with oem rectifier and stator). I load tested the new battery and compared it to my used battery and they are more or less the same. I know my battery is used but I have no reason to believe that this is the cause of the problem.

    I have had no luck posting this question elsewhere or emailing people I know for help, you are my only hope Obiwan :-)

    I will do some more tests tomorrow and post up findings. Thanks for the help guys.
    #4
  5. fast4d

    fast4d Long timer

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    on the output side?

    if so then you're good. check the connectors and wiring to battery.
    #5
  6. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    I have checked all connections and there is no resistance.
    #6
  7. CycleDoc59

    CycleDoc59 Wrench Rider

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    Again, if the battery voltage does not match
    the rectifier output, either there is a poor connection
    between the two, or the connecting wire is too small....

    The problem has nothing to do with battery condition.
    #7
  8. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    will check on that tomorrow in the day light and report back :-)
    #8
  9. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    try reading the voltage across the feed wire (between the regulator & battery). a small resistance is hard for a meter to read accurately, but a voltage reading is very accurate.... thats because resistance in the meter leads is a significant factor on a low ohm scale. on a voltage scale a few ohms in the leads isn't even enough to be a rounding error for the meter (2 ohms added to 10 Meg = 10 Meg)

    anyway.... you are losing a few 10ths of a volt somewhere. read the drop across the wire, it should be zero. any voltage reading is a sign of resistance somewhere. could be a connector, could be the wire
    #9
  10. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    I have been fiddling with it for a while now (freaking hot out today) anyway, out of fear of damaging parts I do not want to hook up a jumper as I am not sure where to put it (electrical diagnosis was never my strong suit) there are 4 wires coming out of the rectifier 2 green 2 red and I don't know which one to jump, do I do it while it's connected, disconnected etc. I have checked the wires from connector to connector though and there is 0 resistance but I do understand that it means nothing in terms of transferring power.

    Little more help or explanation please?
    #10
  11. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    These are my findings so far

    08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S w/ 10224 miles
    Original Battery, always garaged.

    .01V parasitic load on bike *note anti-theft device

    12.76V base @ 86 Degrees F

    Bike idling @1250-1300RPM while cold reads 14.0V Multimeter on battery reads 14.13V

    Direct from stator @ idle each leg reads between 5.71V-6.15V (constantly fluctuating)

    Direct from rectifier @ connector @ idle reads 14.22V w ground @ battery and engine and reads 14.40V w/ ground at rectifier connector

    Testing from rectifier to starter solenoid 14.10V @ idle

    Mind you all this is changing as the bike warms up, I would like to add that as soon as the bike starts it takes approximately 1 minutes to go from base charge up to it’s max whether it be 13 and change V to 14.10V

    Getting approx 16VAC at each leg of stator @ 2K rpm
    #11
  12. CycleDoc59

    CycleDoc59 Wrench Rider

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    Earlier you said you were seeing 13.4 at the
    battery, but 14.4 directly off the rectifier, which
    is not good - indication of a poor connection on either
    side (+ or-), or inadequate wire sizing...

    Now you say you have 14.1 at the battery. That
    is a good number, not perfect, but quite adequate
    for good charging. Whatever you did, you are done...

    Well, except regarding your numbers for the stator,
    where your decimal is one place out. Your stator
    is putting out 57-61 volts ac, which is peachy keen.
    #12
  13. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    I would agree with you but to be honest my 14.1 number is not consistent. I took the bike to work the other day which is mostly highway, 20 minute commute and when I got to work I checked and it was back down to mid 13's (don't recall the exact number)

    my issue is I want the bike to be the way it was last year, 14.4 consistently right now when I rev it the voltage drops, doesn't leave a good feeling in my stomach in regards to taking long, away from home trips if ya know what I mean.
    #13
  14. CycleDoc59

    CycleDoc59 Wrench Rider

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    Well, any plug between the stator and battery is
    cause for concern. Last year alone I found 4 that "leaked",
    overheated, either causing failure by burning out themselves,
    and/or causing the stator and/or rectifier to fail.

    Last week I replaced a failed rectifier in a GSXR 600 that
    had failed because the stator plug fried. At the moment
    there's a Yam R6 on the lift waiting for a new rectifier
    for the same reason... While the plug is failing, the leakage
    can reduce output to the battery.

    So, any plug is suspect in the charging system. Assuming
    all connections are good ones (tight does not mean "good"),
    it could be that pesky plug is leaking a bit. If so, an
    infrared thermometer will find out. Best to cut them out,
    solder all connections, which is what I do.
    #14
  15. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    while I don't disagree both parts and plugs are brand new and have a generous amount of dielectric grease applied, the bike new charged just fine. I honestly think that the rotor has lost some of it's magnetic charge.
    #15
  16. CycleDoc59

    CycleDoc59 Wrench Rider

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    Easy on the dielectric grease, it's non-conductive..!

    You say the stator is putting out over 50v ac on all
    three legs, so there's more than ample output there, for sure.

    Stators on modern bikes virtually all have output well in excess
    of what is normally needed to run a bike, allowing for quite
    a few electrical accessories to be added.

    Rectifier/regulators do not always provide adequate output.
    Output varies a bit from one to another; some go barely to
    14v if at all, others I find put out over 14.6v; too much.
    #16
  17. concours

    concours WFO for 41 years

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    So what's the problem? No start from a weak battery? All those voltage readings are within range of acceptability.
    #17
  18. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    the problem is last year the bike was fine, this year my second commute to work the bike would not start, not a huge deal as I was home and just took the car. I often use this bike to go on long rides out of state no where near home or help for that matter. I am fearful of getting stranded somewhere. I understand the the values I am getting are prob within range and acceptable, but being OCD I am not comfortable with leaving as such. I want it to be like it was last year ie; like new.
    #18
  19. conlysm

    conlysm Adventurer

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    I did take the bike for a ride yesterday, approx 200mi with several stops for fuel and breaks in general, the bike worked fine but I was nervous every time I went to start it, being fearful if it would even start. I can't check the voltage while moving (which sucks) but when stopped and in neutral the instrument cluster will let me check the voltage and at one point I was down to a flat 13.V so in short this thing is all over the map when it comes to charging.
    #19
  20. concours

    concours WFO for 41 years

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    Lol, replace the battery, ride reliably. Your OCD will not change how the charging system was engineered however. Learn to accept fluctuations. Or sit in the garage and wring your hands. :freaky JK Really, it's fine.
    #20