'09 KLR Engine Problems

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by advhound, Oct 29, 2012.

  1. advhound

    advhound Adventurer

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    Got the gasket surfaces all cleaned up, about the flush the bottom end out with kerosene and assemble! Got the new 685 JE Piston from Eagle Mike and it looks great! One question, what is this mystery piece? Its a hard, yet flexible piece.
    [​IMG]

    Stay tuned to my thread this weekend, I am sure I'll have more questions!
    #61
  2. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    Give us some scale on the mystery part, I just went out and looked at this KLR lump sitting here and I don't see that one...the only thing I can think of is the rubber seals where the stator wiring comes out.


    Just slowly start putting the bike together and the parts will find their homes as you go.
    #62
  3. 8lives

    8lives Dharma Bum

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    I'm with Larry, cover rubber
    #63
  4. advhound

    advhound Adventurer

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    OK, thanks guys. While I am putting my engine back together (that circlip for the piston is a PITA!) I plugged my trickle charger in for when the time comes to fire up the bike. I then got to thinking and I remember back when I was just getting into trouble shooting the bike, that at one point the started was able to turn the engine and the cams etc., but then it got to when I would hit the starter it wouldn't even think about turning the engine and made this loud popping/clicking noise when I went to hit the starter. Back then I thought it was from the engine seizing, but now I'm not sure. Check out this video. I just took the video today and the starter is still off, but I wanted to see what you guys thought of this noise? I checked both the 20A fuses and they were both fine. What do you think?
    #64
  5. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    It is a damper for the cam chain. It goes to the front of the cam chain tunnel between the cylinder and head. DONT assemble without it. It will become obvious when you look at where it goes but if not you can probably look up placement on fiche and ronayers.com
    #65
  6. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    Right you are, goes above the pin on the long cam chain slider. Tried to take a pic of it installed, but black on black and you can't see it.
    #66
  7. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    Yeah, it captures the pin in it's seat and provides some tension on the guide... I am sure when you look at it again you may blush a little... If for any reason you already installed the head:shog, pull it off and check out the gasket (should have installed it dry, right?) and if it still has some of the sealing ridge left you should be good to reinstall. If it worries you order another gasket but if you went with a larger bore make sure you clearance the new gasket...
    #67
  8. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    yep... goes on top of the chain guide. if the engine is stuck because the valves were out of time you may have bent valves.

    fyi.... holding the starter "on" when the engine won't turn will not blow any fuse, since only the relay is on the circuit, not main starter current. holding it on might however, melt the starter windings. if the motor's armature can't turn there is no CEMF to limit the inrush current and it acts like a dead short for as long as the battery lasts
    #68
  9. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    I guess I came in late in this thread, I just saw the "mystery" part. Are you assembling after a top end rebuild? Are you sure you got your cam timing right? Did you turn it a full cycle by hand after assembling top end? Sounds like you gotta pull the head anyway to install the damper.... Look at piston and valves for contact, like Beezer said, possible bent valves. Post pics if in doubt, and we can tell you how to check your valve seating.
    #69
  10. advhound

    advhound Adventurer

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    Hey guys, got it pretty well assembled today. After working on the ground all day, I can see the value in a bike lift! Just like you guys were saying, all of the parts found their home eventually! Thanks for your help with the mystery part, I was able to put it in place before I put the head on thank goodness. Need to finalize the tension on the cam chain tomorrow and then put the valve cover on and the exhaust, coolant etc, but I am getting close! Thanks for the input on the mystery part! It went smoothly except for the circlip for the piston took entirely too long, and then I was chasing my tail a bit on getting the cam timing correct. Back at it tomorrow!

    Going with the 685 kit from Eagle Mike and I was able to pick up a head and complete top end from @larryboy.
    #70
  11. advhound

    advhound Adventurer

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    She turned over last night! Took it for the 20 min test ride and it definitely rode smoother and pulled harder in rev ranges it didn't before. More later, just wanted to give an update to you guys! Thanks again for your help!
    #71
  12. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

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    Enjoy!
    #72
  13. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    :clap:clap


    Nice work!!!
    #73
  14. advhound

    advhound Adventurer

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    So far so good! Really loving the extra power, feels like a solid build. I am working with a very minor leak coming from the of the bottom of the water pump cover plate through the drainage outlet passage (A). I ordered a new oil seal and a new mechanical seal and all of the necessary hardware with it.

    [​IMG]
    #74
  15. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    Is it water or oil, or both? Sounds like you got all your seals on the way. Removing the seals without scoring the surfaces can be tricky... There is a garage made puller shown on the procedure on MarkNet. I have only driven them out with no problems but you might want to check it out. Congrats on the rebuild!!
    #75
  16. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    you were in the right side cover already so you know whats involved. the mechanical seal would be the leaker. I doubt it will fix itself but you never know... meeby a piece of crud in there somehow. I'd be tempted to drive it a few days & see. when they fail on the road rather than doing an immediate fix you just keep adding coolant.... been done more than a few times, some guys going thousands of miles

    the seals come out pretty easy. they go in pretty easy too but make sure the mechanical seal (the steel shell part) is square in the bore. the seal isn't quite like diagrams you see. the shoulder isn't as square cut... more rounded... hard to describe. point is, you can be fooled if you dont watch it close when you seat it. if it is cocked off a bit it will eventually squeel. when the bike gets hot it will howl like a dry bearing, and it sounds like it's in the top end because of how sound travels in the engine. I've seen a couple, 1st one drove me nuts until I figured it out. the seal had a couple thousand miles on it too. another symptom is a squeek during shut down... 1 chirp just as the engine quits turning. even that though is only an annoyance.... until it starts really pissing


    ps..... sounds like shes running good.... good job
    #76
  17. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

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    Dont forget the O ring too!
    #77
  18. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    Mark made one of those at a techday one time, it's the way to go. :deal

    Nice guy too. :thumb
    #78
  19. advhound

    advhound Adventurer

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    Looks like just oil. Will look into it!

    I've put about a 100 miles on it and have been watching the oil like a hawk...it's still leaking at about the same rate with the right side of the lower frame and skid plate being sprayed pretty good. I was hoping it would work itself out, too, but no such luck! The parts are in at the Kawi dealership...so I'll pick them up this weekend!
    #79
  20. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    yep.... change em. can't do the oil seal without doing the mechanical seal since the oil seal is underneath
    #80