1100GS HID Bixenon install

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by slartidbartfast, Dec 18, 2008.

  1. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Interesting! The part about solenoid current causing heat and thus reducing the life of the solenoid is the bit I'm potentially concerned about. I don't think the little relay box that came with my HIDs (and which I'm not using) has a circuit to reduce solenoid current. Perhaps I'll cut it open to see.

    The particular controllers in that eBay auction are for Bosch Bixenon HIDs which have two solenoids - a high-power one to move the shield and a low-power one to hold it in place.
    #21
  2. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Anyone interested in this conversion should note the following:

    I installed a kit with the slim (digital?) ballasts. These have a space-saving advantage and in my case, also ignite the lamp instantly (which means I still have a functioning high-beam flash function, albeit a bit dimmer and different color than when the headlamp has warmed up.

    A bit of research appears to indicate that the big ballasts not only take longer to warm up and actually turn the light on but they draw a lot more current during initial start up. This means it may not be a good idea to wire them straight into the factory harness as I have done with both my oilhead GS and airhead RT.
    #22
  3. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    Where did you get these? I'm looking for an HID with a slider hi/lo function. Thanks for the report, it looks like the hi/lo beam pattern works pretty well.

    I didn't see any external coil for these lights. Maybe a 1"x1"x2" plastic enclosure that is part of the wiring harness. Does this kit use an external coil?

    - Jim

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    #23
  4. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    These HID lamps were an eBay purchase. The seller was kassabian9898

    It's probably hidden under the tangle of wiring in this photo but there is an igniter (I assume that's what it is - it's a small black box in appearance) in-line with the cable from the ballast to the capsule. I'm not sure of the exact reason (probably has to do with the inductance or capacitance of the cable) but I have heard that the length of the cable is important to the proper operation of the lamp and should not be adjusted.

    Regards,
    Philip
    #24
  5. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    Thanks, Philip. The 'igniter' is a coil of wire, a large inductor. The HID controller, together with the coil, form a boost-type switching power supply.

    The controller sends a low voltage switched voltage to the coil, and 'flyback' from the coil creates a high voltage to strike the plasma arc in the lamp. Once the arc is formed within the lamp 'envelope', the voltage drops to a very low DC level. That voltage level is set by the physics of the elements in the plasma arc. With some gas/metal mixtures the 'arc voltage' is as low as 6 volts.

    After the plasma arc is formed, the controller becomes a DC current supply. The current through the plasma can be varied to adjust the brightness of the lamp. I haven't seen any automotive controllers that do this.

    The wire lengths are not too important, especially on the low voltage side of the coil. Some lamps have the inductor coil built into their base. Those type of lamps use typical light gauge PVC-insulated automotive wire running between the controller and the lamp.

    If you decide to make a change to the high voltage side of the coil, between the inductor coil and the lamp, a teflon or silicon insulated wire would not be a bad idea. It isn't too critical, it's only high voltage for the short time before the arc is struck. Some 10s of milliseconds.

    - Jim

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    #25
  6. tetsuo69

    tetsuo69 Freakin' Amazing

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    Awesome write up, you have a great writing style. Thanks for posting the beam pics, its convinced me to do my ride.

    From the EBay link it looks like they are selling H4-3 (sliding shield or tipper) bulbs versus H4-4 (bulb sliders). I guess they might have changed their product, but you have bulb sliders correct?
    #26
  7. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    Hey there Zak. As an interim step, maybe replace the 1100 headlight with a free form reflector type. I say maybe because I don't know if the standard 6x7 rectangular headlight fits the 1100. The 6x7 is commonly referred to as a replacement for H6054, H6052, 6053, and 6052.

    It doesn't cost too much to see if they fit, or if they are an improvement.
    http://search.stores.ebay.com/Autop...ooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfsubZ0QQsaselZ107774186QQsofpZ0
    http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/rectangle.html

    [​IMG]



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    #27
  8. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Yes, mine are bulb sliders. From the latest sale pages, it does look as if the seller I purchased from is now selling a different type of Bixenon lamp. Oh well!!! Keep looking!
    #28
  9. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    I have now made the same upgrade to a third bike - Yamaha GTS 1000. In each case, I have been able to throw away 95% of the harness that came with the HID lights and still do a plug-and-play install. Here's the post about the GTS

    Next related tasks will be to replace the 35W HID in the GS with the other 55W I bought for the GTS. Then I can take the 35W and put it in my DR350.

    I have also since added a euro-switch to the GS to control both the HID and aux lights.
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  10. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    Are you sure about this?
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  11. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    Yes, I was answering a question regarding an external output coil. Or at least what the person thought was an external output coil.

    All HID power systems use an inductor as an 'output coil'. The inductor is necessary to generate high voltage. Depending on the design of the HID power system, the inductor coil is either inside the power supply enclosure, or outside the enclosure.

    (NOTE: The internet creates its own nomenclature. Typical comments on the internet refer to this inductor coil as the igniter. Conversely, typical comments on the internet refer to the power supply enclosure as the igniter. At the risk of creating confusion, I call it an inductor, because that's what the component is.)

    The inductor coil is necessary to generate the high voltage required to start the plasma arc within the HID bulb. An output inductor coil is present on all HID systems, but can be in different locations depending on the overall design.

    There are 2 types of HID power supplies. One power supply has the 'output coil' contained within the controller housing. The other power supply has the 'output coil' external to the controller housing.

    For power supplies with the external coil, the coil is located in one of two places. The coil is either inline on the wiring between the controller and the bulb. Or the coil is built into the bulb base. That type of bulb, the one with the built in inductor coil, is known as a D1S.


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    #31
  12. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Almost five years on and the HID conversion is still going strong. I did pull out the 35W HID and replace it with an essentially identical 55W unit a year or so ago. Nothing has failed or fallen off and the light output continues to shame the stock quartz-halogen unit. I have installed a euro-switch to replace the original RH switchgear, thereby gaining a light switch, which I use to turn the current headlamp and Motolights on and off.

    The sister to the original 35W unit I used here was installed in my R80RT and continues to work well there (delivering an even better beam pattern, IMO.) I also put a 55W unit in my GTS1000 which throws out a lot more light but with a noticeably worse beam pattern. Also, unlike either of the BMW's, the light on the GTS tends to go out if I start the bike with the HID turned on. My guess is that this has something to do with the electrics in the control box. A friend has three HID units installed in his R1200RT and just one of them seems to do the same thing so it could be just the unit I happened to install on the GTS.
    #32
  13. guitstik

    guitstik Been here awhile

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    This is one of the threads that I found while doing an internet search for improving the lighting output on my R1100GS. Thanks Slartidbartfast.
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  14. NitroMax

    NitroMax Been here awhile

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    Same here thanks for the write-up and the 5 year later situation. Gives confidence in the product :clap
    #34