1150GS Hepco & Becker Crashbar modification

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by czechyour6, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Oct 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    143
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    Orem, UT
    Not sure if there was an evolution of these bars and some cleared valve covers and some didn't, but mine didn't and in June it's Alaska or bust with a few buddy's. I don't want to have to move tank, losen bolts, fight to get alternator cover off so now the work begins !

    Left side this is far as it goes! Evidence of my slide on my side down the Pony Express trail is still present !
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    #1
  2. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    So I measured up about 25mm on front and middle bars, marked them and it was hacksaw time! If I were to do it again, I would cut it up closer to 40mm or about 1.5" to get it up higher away from where the bars are more oval and are welded to lower bars


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    Hacksaw time !
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    factory position, partially covering lower front cover bolt
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    THATS more like it ! Losen up rear bolts, swivel down so front gap is 1" Now the bar angle seem to follow the center line of the heads better

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    #2
  3. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Have your machinist buddy ( or yourself if u got skill and got game ) make you spacers from mild steel. I will try to throw in a drawing later but I made the middle diameter .875 (22mm *7/8*) , front gap 1" the rear end up being about .600 hmmm ok maybe a drawing will be better :evil

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    Wire in those spacers snug, this is why next time I would make the cut higher to stay away from the oval bar shape down low, then spacers could be symmetrical
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    Now tac those babies in with a mig, make sure you ground close, the opposite spacer your not welding works great! Purdy TIG welds to follow
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    #3
  4. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Now we chop out 3/8 on each side so we can put two 3/16 thick flanges in them there gaps ! I spaced to the first cut about 1" from the vertical bar. This will give us removable middle bar for care free access to that alternator cover, another fault of these bars !

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    Thought I could find a freeking flange already the same size, but no luck, I had buddy that had fabrication tabs that had a 1" standoff ( measured flat to center of hole ) Didnt have enough to weld 8 of them and seemed like a pain so I used 2 of them as a template and had 4 cut. This cost me Sushi for another buddy. I then bench vised 2 flanges behind the template halves in a vice and matched final shape with 4" grinder and made lots of purdy grey dust and snot ( wearing paper mask advisable )

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    #4
  5. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Picked up some stainless 8mm cap screws, washers and nuts. I used regular nuts for mockup for easy on and off, and got Nylock nuts for final install. Same deal, tac with mig grounding welder on rear spacer. Ended up making tac welds to inside flanges on the bench first since the little bastard moved all over!

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    Polished off the paint on middle joint, getting ready for a permanent meltation. The downward tab joint helped orient the flanges when they were welded on the bench. If i were to do it again I might rotate the top of the tabs back and they would be even easier to get to bolts between head and back of down pipe

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    #5
  6. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Fast fwd... I pulled the bars ( have to be careful and only pull off half of bars at a time, we dont want to stinking stripped/cross threaded bolts) threw factory bolts back in. Got in a hurry, didn't click any pics after final tig from local prop doctor, worth all $80 for great welds ! You can see the welds through the new powder coat, another $85 but they look great :clap

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    And the left side.. Not sure why our Hepco buddies couldn't have made these closer to this in the first place?? Should be great protection AND can get to the important stuff hassle free !

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    #6
  7. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Saw this pic from another inmates post, this is why I decided that modifying the Hepco bars would be better than easy valve cover access bars that may not be quite as bullet proof :freaky

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    #7
  8. Chev.

    Chev. The Final Drive?

    Joined:
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    Congrats! Agree, that's how H&B should have made them from the start. :thumb
    #8
  9. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Here is the " now removable " cross bar welded and tabs cut off

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    Right side view from back a little bit, Any other mods you guys would have made or welded to these things? Maybe some tabs for some dingle balls? :wink:

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    The after pic of left jug compared to the before on the 4th pic in first post, now I just need to get some PIAA driving lights mounted! You can also see if the front cross bar flanges were rotated back a little more you have clear shot at them with extension. Guess they wont have to come off much
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    #9
  10. czechyour6

    czechyour6 Been here awhile

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    Spacer drawing, forgot the 45 deg chamfers on the ends, NOT TO SCALE :evil

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    #10
  11. opskbert

    opskbert Bert

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    Jun 26, 2008
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    22
    Location:
    Mapleton, UT.
    AK here we come. The bars look great!!
    #11
  12. FatChance

    FatChance Road Captain

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    :thumb

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    #12