1190 adventure - handlebar switchgear removal ?

Discussion in 'Ridiculous streetbikes with 6 CPUs and too much HP' started by Paulev, Oct 15, 2013.

  1. Paulev

    Paulev Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    39
    Location:
    Cheshire UK
    I'm swapping the handlebars on my 1190 R but can't work out how to get the switchgear off the left hand side. I've removed the two screws at the bottom but they're only 8mm long so they can't be the clamp screws. There are 3 small square holes and 2 small round holes in the bottom but I can't see any additional screws in them. They may be holes that unclip something but I don't really want to go poking things up there in case I do some damage ! Any ideas please ?
    #1
  2. Trail newb

    Trail newb Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2013
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Gold Coast, Australia
    Hey paulev, I just put pro tapers on my bike. The two screws are the clamping screws, they screw into two seated threads on the opposite half of the switch gear. I used a flat blade screw driver and gently separated the housing from the grip side, as it is covered, just work both sides apart gently. You don't need to completely separate the switch block, once you have it open enough you should be able to slide it off the bars, remove the right side assembly first, unbolt the bars so it gives you enough lee way to get it off.

    I did open the switch block and its a pain in the arse to put back together, the switches all sit in little slots between the half's so you have to carefully guide it back together while they stay put.
    #2
  3. Trail newb

    Trail newb Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2013
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Gold Coast, Australia
    The side facing the mirror stem has a metal tooth that grips the bars so when you tighten the switch block go gently. Easy to over tighten and pull the thread out internally.
    #3
  4. Paulev

    Paulev Adventurer

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    Aug 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Cheshire UK
    (I did open the switch block and its a pain in the arse to put back together, the switches all sit in little slots between the half's so you have to carefully guide it back together while they stay put)

    Cheers for that.

    I got carried away and split the switch block too ! Must have put it back together 20 times before i got those little rubber buttons to all stay in the right place. At one point I had it all except the horn and I was contemplating leaving it without. The mating edges of the switch block have taken a bit of a battering but it'll be ok. All seems to be working OK.

    I fitted the pro tapers too, they were probably not as high as I expected but it's pulled the grips back around an inch towards me whilst keeping them level.
    #4
  5. Trail newb

    Trail newb Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2013
    Oddometer:
    32
    Location:
    Gold Coast, Australia
    :lol3 I warned you!! Those little rubber tabs are a nightmare. I would get it all perfect then one always seemed to pop off or a switch would move :kboom I want to visit the factory and see how they assemble the damn things!
    #5
  6. XsilverGS

    XsilverGS Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Oddometer:
    184
    Location:
    Dorset UK
    Paulev

    Which bars from the ProTaper range did you fit and how do they compare with the standard bars you removed, height, pull-back and where did you buy them from?

    It's more the pull-back I'm interested in changing as I find the standard bars a bit of a stretch.

    Many thanks
    #6