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Discussion in 'Ridiculous streetbikes with 6 CPUs and too much HP' started by ebrew, Apr 26, 2014.
If anyone got it please let me know how it goes for you ( fit wise)
In the hood
I just got one and it fits good and is very protective! The quality is first rate! I like the side stand relocation kit also, very strong
Are those highway pegs?
Do you like the wide pegs? I am thinking of those, the damn passenger pegs are in my way when off-road and on the pegs. I would get rid of them, but ride two up with my wife once or twice a week. So if I can get my feet out a bit, maybe that will work?
I really like the pegs and yes those are highway pegs i got from Adventure
Designs I think. The end unscrews and it is water tight so you can store little things in there.
Fitted mine today, looks way better than the touratech one I had. I had a little trouble getting it to fit between the rear mounts, seemed to wide but a few "adjustments" with a 5lb dead blow and all is well? It did say to use the 4 8x25mm bolts for mounting but mine came with 2 25's and 2 20's I put the short ones in the front? All in all very happy with it.
Mine also came with 2 25's ans 2 20's. It did however come with 4 30's (the black ones) which I used. Which ones are correct?
I think the 30's are for the foot peg mounts
Up front ( less room behind ) and the longer ones on the rear mounts
The only black ones that came with mine were the ones that remounted the foot peg brackets back to the frame
Here's a post I made to the 2014 1190 thread.
Back on January 20, I ordered one of these.
It finally came this afternoon and I put it on. The installation is a bit fiddley and you have to disable the side stand switch (which I usually do anyway so I don't have a problem with the Hall effect switch on the trail). The plate is 5.33 mm thick (including powder coat on both sides) and seems, because of its size, a bit lighter than I expected. We'll see how it holds up. The installation includes a side stand relocation to the frame which seems to be quite sturdy. The powder coat/paint of the new mount had to be cleaned out of the side stand bearing to do the install because the tolerances are quite close. The installation requires that you finally mount the plate with the four mounting points very loose. Then tighten the 4 mounting bolts and everything else (including the foot peg mounts). I hope the plate will come off/on without loosening everything because putting the foot pegs back on can be a bit of a pain (particularly for an oil change). We'll see. I'm happy so far.
I did some measurements of the flat part on the bottom with the bike on the center stand. I didn't notice the differences when looking one side at a time.
At the back (under rear screw) 10 7/8" (left) 11 1/4" right. Maybe it has something to do with pipe clearance or the center stand, but the difference is strange. You don't notice because it is hard to see both sides at once. At the front 11 3/8" (left) 11 5/8" (right).
zip tie the spring together and its easy....
The zip tie works but BDCW includes a short metal dowel that you insert in the spring. Then just set the spring in the peg, force the peg and spring into place and when you push the pin in, it displaces the dowel. I'm adding the dowel to my tool kit. Easy Peasy!
Same issue for me (I started looking for a bigger hammer) until I read Kurt's instructions...."Don't tighten bolts until the end!" when I loosened the left peg mount bolts up, the two back skid plate bolts lined up perfectly. The only issue I have with the skid plate is that it's got quite a echo when a rock kicks up. I'll add a bit of firewall material at the next oil change.
Great Job Kurt!
Jeff always has a trick. KTM foot peg install:
I should have probably loosened them up a bit more, but it all went OK. I agree it is a great product.
Off ( oil change) with out loosing the foot pegs ?
pretty sure, if not a few minor "adjustments" and it will
Yea, yea, I know all the foot peg tricks/secrets. You shouldn't have to mess with foot pegs to drop the skid plate. And you still have to mess with cotter keys and have some spares ready to go if they have been off too many times. And don't forget the brake pedal keeps the foot peg pin from being removed. I'll let you know later today if mine will go off/on just removing the four bolts.
Didn't take long to check it out. I removed the four bolts. The front bolts try to move the sides of the plate in towards their mount points. No problem there. The back two bolts come right out, but the plate is firmly wedged in place by the heavy mounts underneath the foot peg bolts. Even though the front is free, no amount of leverage on the front would move the back.
Part of the problem is that the clip nuts take some space between the plate and their mounting tabs. I've always hated those kind of nuts. I removed them at the bottom mount point of my 990 tanks and drilled them out and replaced them with long thru bolts to ease the task of mounting the 990 tanks.
I think a similar approach would work here after bending the plate a bit. I plan to try the following.
0) Try to bend the rear of the plate in a bit at the mount points.
1) Remove the clip nuts at the rear
2) Replace the 8 mm button head bolts with hex head bolts and nyloc nuts. There is plenty of room at the back side to insert the bolts from the rear and put the nuts outside. Hold the hex head with a box end wrench on back and tighten the outside. Use washers on both sides of the bolt of course. Can't try this today because I don't have suitable nyloc nuts and I am riding tomorrow.
I'll report back later. I'm interested if anyone else can get their plate off/on using just the 4 bolts.