1190 R Manual Suspension Settings

Discussion in 'Ridiculous streetbikes with 6 CPUs and too much HP' started by tmyhog, Oct 26, 2013.

  1. tmyhog

    tmyhog Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    59
    Have a deposit on 1190R.
    Reading the suspension setting in the manual.I get the compression and rebound setting.Section 12.4 describes adjusting the spring preload of the fork.
    Could someone explain the following from the manual and what effect it will have on the front end suspension?
    Turn clockwise to increase the spring preload; turn counterclockwise to reduce
    the spring preload.
    Adjusting the spring preload has no influence on the absorption setting of the
    rebound damping.
    Basically, however, you should set the rebound damping higher with a higher
    spring preload
    #1
  2. tmyhog

    tmyhog Adventurer

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    I am thinking that the preload is more or less a master control and after you choose your preload than adjust rebound and damping?
    Cannot wait to begin dialing in the suspension.
    #2
  3. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    The preload on springs will only change the height of the front or rear. It is very difficult to detect any difference when riding. It does not change the 'softness' or 'hardness' of the spring.

    You may notice it only when dropping into dips. Less preload will give you more travel when the forks extend into dips or drops and prevent the forks 'toping out'.

    I haven't seen the forks on the 1190 yet, but the 990 forks only have a 10mm height change from the spring preload. Very small change.

    The compression damping setting has the greatest effect on how you feel bumps. If you want a plush ride, back the compression setting out (counter clock wise).
    #3
  4. Hoologan

    Hoologan Been here awhile

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    The more preload you add, the more force you will create on the rebound. You'll need to add some more rebound damping to overcome the greater force.

    Hook's law is: F=kx

    where:

    F=force
    k=spring rate (a property of the spring that does not change)
    x=distance the spring is compressed (preload)

    This is why wannabe tuner cars sometime bounce down the freeway. The cheap asses use stiffer "lowering springs" (or cut the springs, which increases the spring rate) but don't bother changing their shock valving so there's not enough damping for the stiffer spring.
    #4
  5. XsilverGS

    XsilverGS Been here awhile

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    Location:
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    I have an 1190 roadie without the electronic suspension so similar (but not identical) to your setup.

    I was suffering bottoming of the rear suspension in brisk two-up riding on tarmac and centre stand dragging (see other threads on the site) with luggage with the preload set as per the "owner's manual".

    For my model the "owner's manual" suggests the static sag to be 25mm and rider sag 55mm, for the rear suspension and suggests the normal preload should be 4 turns. I weigh 73 Kg so not overly heavy but to achieve the values for both sags given in the "owner's manual" require 9 turns of the preload adjuster. With the 9 turns both dimensions are satisfied.

    The spring fitted to my bike is 170 N/mm.

    My front suspension has only compression and rebound damping which I've set and feels fine for the job.

    It may pay to check your preload settings for the rear. I'd be interested to know your results.
    #5
  6. tmyhog

    tmyhog Adventurer

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    Thank You.I did think the preload would change the ride softness/hardness.Not any more.
    #6
  7. tmyhog

    tmyhog Adventurer

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    So KTM sets the spring rate thru their choice of Springs.We can adjust the preload(how much weight on the springs)then rebound,Then compression.
    #7
  8. tmyhog

    tmyhog Adventurer

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    I do not have my 1190R yet.Patiently waiting.Learning.Thanks for the help.I will for sure check the preload on both front and rear.
    The ability to manually set the suspension rather than have a programmed computer do the adjusting makes a lot of sense to me.
    I hopefully can do better!
    #8