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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by Mr. Fisherman, Aug 28, 2017.
Do you have over 3000 miles on the current oil?
About 2900 miles. But it also stalled when I had much lower mileage on the current oil. I changed it at 20000 km and it stalled at around 21,000, 23000 and now.
I am considering changing oil every 3000 miles.
Even my manual model started false neutral shifting after about 2900 miles.
I ride hard, YMMV.
Oil is cheap.
Opinions vary greatly on when to change oil but one thing's for sure, it has nothing to do with the stalling issue.
I have 14000 kms on my dct now and I experienced my first stall and my oil only has 2000 kms on it.It happened after stopping stopping for 30 minutes for lunch so bike was still relatively warm but not operating temperature.I was about to pull out onto a busy street and the damn thing stalled.It hasn't stalled since but I may try some injector cleaner see if that helps can't hurt.
It sounds similar to my stalls in that it stalled just as you were pulling away. Not sure if engine temp has much to do with it because I usually just ride off after starting the bike without an issue. The stalls have always been when it's warmed up, but that could just be a coincidence.
Good observation. I just rode my CB500x 5k from SFL to Oregon doing much of the TAT. I did the first oil change at 600 miles and started the trip. About 3k into the trip I was having trouble getting in gear from neutral on occaisson. I will also consider more frequent oil changes or full synthetic. I had a DCT on order but got tired of waiting and got the CB and gave it the RR level 3 kit. Still considering a DCT so I appreciate your thread!
Interested in how this works for you.
How are you liking the 500X with the RRIII?
I thought you might want to see these...
Just a thought - you might suggest to the dealer (or have a look yourself) at the bore of the throttle bodies near the throttle blade - you may have some coking in the bore which can cause stalling issues - the idle air control valve may not be able to react quick enough to compensate for reduced airflow if coking is present.
Thanks for the input. Next month they’re replacing the throttle bodies and a number of other parts.
I will apologize up front, as my intent is not to take away from an AT thread but I will give my observations. There are many threads on the X and the RR lvl 1,2 and 3 versions, including some incredible trip reports.
It is almost like a smaller AT. Honda hit a home run with this class of 500's with R,F and X for the target customers they were aiming at. In its stock form it is a lot of fun, would make an excellent commuter and light tourer for short trips. I paid $5700 for a left over 16 model with ABS. That is DR and KLR price range but you get a modern FI parallel twin with a 6 speed and abs. They kept it to 48 hp to market it in that licensing class so that is a limitation for folks who want to haul ass. The fueling, power delivery and gearing make it fun to ride if you take advantage of the full rev range, but it is only 471 cc.
The fueling and gearing transfer amazing well off road too. You can lug it down to 2000 rpm in 1st which is very low geared for crawling off road and 2nd is also great for steeper hill climbs and lugs along at 2500 rpm if necessary. I did a lot less clutch feathering than I expected.
I have not owned a bike with less than 50 hp in 30 years, but I thoroughly enjoyed riding the stock bike while I was waiting for my level 3 kit to arrive.
The quality of the level 3 kit is amazing. Rally Raid had Tractive create high quality custom front and rear suspension components for the bike that work very well with different spring weights available depending on your mass and luggage.. The wheels are very high quality and can be shipped with the Bartless tubeless conversion installed.
After a lot of testing they decided on a 19' front which is perfect for an adventure bike. 9.5 inches of ground clearance and only 7.5" of suspension travel but this was never intended to be an offroad monster and they had some limitations due to the stock bikes ergonomics.
16 and later years have a 4.8 gallon fuel tank. My fuel mileage ranged from 48 mpg on a tank running 80+ mph for a highway stretch getting out of Florida, 54 mpg at 70 mph at a 60 degree angle on a highway stretch on a rainy windy day in OK to over 70 mpg on back roads and fire roads. More difficult off road tracks still returned over 60 mpg so it has an easy 200 -300 mile range depending on conditions. I averaged about 62-63 mpg for my 5K mile trip across the USA.
I spent about $3500 converting it but that included the tubeless conversion, tires, soft racks and tail rack, skidplate, new renthal bars, bark busters, cockpit plate and mounts for power and gps, Scorpion exhaust and assorted other extras in their catalog. They sell a switch to turn off the ABS but I skipped that and ABS was never an issue off road while providing plenty of reassurance on road. It took me about 16 hours of wrench time to get her converted but everything fit like it was oem stuff and I had a ready to go 435 lb parallel twin adventure bike. Plug in my electronics, throw on my soft luggage and ride back roads and as much of the TAT as possible across the USA.
I look at it as a modern day KLR. You give up the simplicity of a carburetor but you gain a 6 speed, great fueling, much better suspension and more power for a bike about the same weight which is better on and off road.
Like any other bike out there it is a compromise, but until another manufacturer develops and sells a better mid weight adventure bike it has a lot of advantages over anything else in the price/weight range. There are great deals on used X's out there and you can easily buy one and build it for 7k.
I am going to put the stock wheels and tires back on this week and see how much fun it is as a heavy super moto.
5700 miles later in Port Orford OR.
Here is a picture of the RH side. She falls well too. I had actually dropped it on a steeper section full of baby heads which kicked out my wheel about 100 yards up the slope. I picked it up and walked it down to a cleaner spot where I could put the kickstand down on a rock. I knocked it over putting the luggage back on and had to pick her up again.
I ran the oil a little over the factory recommended point by about 1000 miles due to my road trip being extended a bit. I think it was nearly 9K miles on the oil. But the DCT shifted no worse than a comparable manual. It smoothed up nicely with fresh oil. A VFR mind you but I would question the DCT's contribution to stalling due to the oil change.
Different maps and bike but it seems a stretch.
Still loving the DCT.
Added the Camel windshield support.
I need a better picture. It is straight and I really like how the GPS rides now. Much more stable.
The Neutrino Aurora PDM has been amazing.
Automatic control and modulation of the heated gear is just so nice.
I did check my battery and it tested good. I found the issue and it is all better now.
Love the bike.
Time for another oil and filter change and a rear skin.
I might try replacing the failed Outex on the rear when I swap tires.
I am a strong proponent for TPMS. Get one.
My concern with the DCT is if it’s not your only bike, does it impact your skills on the non DCT bike?
You mention things and reactions that are almost subconsciously engrained into your riding. I agree that is the case for me with 45 years on a bike. For me, it seems it would, or at least “could” be dangerous when swapping bikes. The AT would never be my only bike...so that would be a concern to me. Am I off base?
I still have other bikes with clutches and have ridden friends bikes.
Hasn't been an issue other than my other bikes are neglected because this one is as easy to get out of the shop as my 250 and it is just such a joy to ride.
The big mile days I have had on it have been easier than they should be.
There is no doubt that the DCT reduces fatigue on long rides.
I don't really want to sell my small bike but I am having a hard time justifying keeping it.
I could see myself with just the AT, but don't tell my wife
I have a DCT and two manual shift bikes. No issues at all switching back and forth.
I'm sure its no issue switching when under the best riding circumstance.... its the possible delay of your "automatic response" during an emergency maneuver than concerns me.
All this said from someone that has never ridden an AT before... so theres that....
I switch around between my AT-DCT, my XR and my hand shift, foot clutch shovelhead depending on where I'm riding. Never had a problem. I think you build up a sort of muscle memory for each bike.
Same here, zero problems switching from the DCT to the XS650...ever.