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Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by MZcountryboy, Jan 22, 2011.
Its bout freak'n time.
Looks pissah, Scott!
after three coats, and some trim parts...... more to go soon!
Looking good Scott.
Rolled on paint kicks ass! Nicely done!
I had to go back and re-read the entire thread. I had forgotten how much work you've put into this. Any idea what the total cost is so far? I need a reality check so I can stop looking at rust buckets on CL.
Anyway, awesome job, I can't wait to see it finished!
One who wishes to maintain his marital bliss does not count the pennies spent on a folly of a restoration project.
(run away from the CL rustbombs!........)
I like the paint. It's not as flat as the rattle can jobs I see on CL. That look is getting old.
Was the mineral spirits only to allow it to roll nicely, or did it add the slight gloss to the finish?
I'm thinking I'd like to do a two tone with similar black and a gloss contrasting color.
The paint looks great. I saw the mix ratio, but what is the technique?
What type of roller do you use?
Spend a little time here to get the details: http://rolledon.forummotion.com/
You can get a great gloss from it too!
Work I have done.
Mineral spirits is to thin the paint so that it dries with no orange peel. Some of the internet guys don't like the flat paint on the roller jobs, as the roller marks + brush marks are hard to hide. I was super careful to roll it out evenly and then the very last roll with no pressure on the roller frame. Most folks use a gloss paint, and wetsand between coats to get a nice finish, like JVB has on the red door.
I did no sanding between coats.
I did a bit of research and Rustoleum reccomends thinning with acetone only, but this is due to new VOC regulations, not performance. The roller paint guys say that the acetone takes too long to dry, and mineral spirits works better, I used the "green" mineral spirits even, and it came out great.
The roller paint guys reccomend the foam brushes and foam roller covers. I used the foam brushes (no brush marks!) and a regular 3/8 nap roller cover. During the first coat it is important to let the roller soak up some paint and "steep" for a while, I got lots of air bubbles on the roof (they dried out fine....) on the first coat, but once the roller was saturated, it went much better. Roll it on as thin as you can to get coverage, then come back and add multiple coats to get the finish desired. 3 coats was enough for me, some people go 5 or 6 if wetsanding between coats.
I'm another believer in the roller job, having painted my BMW race car that way. Did it as a joke after reading about it on the interweb, and get endless giggles from people who look at it and can't believe that's how it was done. I went with a higher dollar Inerlux boat paint, which doesn't require as much thinning (and thus as many coats). The no-buff finish is really glossy, and if you get the technique down you can achieve an almost glass-smooth finish that will fool just about everybody to think it came from a gun.
It is more labor intensive because of the multiple applications and sanding between (I did it more for adhesion than to smooth it out), but the lack of mess from spraying in my home garage was worth it, not to mention the savings in materials over 'real' auto paint. Just remember, it doesn't do anything for your prep quality; do a crappy prep job and it will look like crap! You can't hide bad prep no matter what path you take.
Hahaha, that's true. I've done just enough body work to know it's a miserable job, but you make it look so eeeeeeasy!
Thanks for the info! One day I may attempt something more my size, like a bike tank.
mustache and bumper on the front, I have most of the new wiring harness is as well.
Glass on the passenger door is in, with all new fuzzies.
Looks great Scott!
Go back to post 1 to see what he started with...