1965 DKW model 158

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by bisbonian, Jan 4, 2014.

  1. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    Alright so I finally can go into Old's Cool and feel like I belong!

    I just picked up this 1965 DKW:

    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow I have to head over and pick up the rest of the parts; airbox, key and tool kit. This bike is amazingly complete and should be fairly straightforward to get back on the road.

    I've been having a bit of a hard time finding out any information on this particular model but that may be because I've been looking in the wrong places. I know that it's a 49cc engine and that's about it.

    Is there any rule of thumb for pre-mix ratio? I have a bit of work to do before I try to start it up but this would be a good thing to know in advance.

    The plan at the moment is mostly to just clean it up, replace tires & tubes then make it run. The seat needs some attention but I don't think I want to get into any painting for the moment.

    We have a local vintage motorcycle show, I think in April, and I would like to be able to get this up there by then.

    Any hints or suggestions are welcome!
    #1
  2. jimroid

    jimroid Been here awhile

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    That is really neat.Nice purchase! Use a good brand of oil.I think anything between 32/1 and 50/1 would be a more than safe fuel/oil mix. At one time I had 14 antique outboards,2 sleds ,lawnmower and a bike or two that were all 2-strokes. I ran everything at 40/1 with no issues.
    #2
  3. Rizingson

    Rizingson Vintage Rider

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    Typical fuel oil ratio back in the '60s for pre-mix was 20:1. That would protect the engine at pretty much WOT continuously, I wouldn't go less than 32:1 as it's only 49cc's and will be working pretty hard just to pull itself anyway.
    By the way, that's a very cool looking bike, are you planning to restore or just enjoy the natural patina!
    #3
  4. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    For the moment I'm planning on enjoying the natural patina but I won't count out more of a restoration in the future.

    I do need to get the seat redone as it is horrible and a bit of the leather-like structure broke off in my hand this morning.

    I picked up the rest of the parts yesterday, which consisted of a tool kit, air filter & housing, and key.

    The air filter is this puck-like thing about 2" in diameter and about 1/4" thick. does anyone know if this is to be washed out or is it one of those things that can be replaced? I can see daylight through bits of it but overall it's pretty dirty.
    #4
  5. jimroid

    jimroid Been here awhile

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    Have you a picture of the filter?
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  6. ragtoplvr

    ragtoplvr Long timer

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    The things that determine a safe oil gas ratio are sleeve or all roller bearings, puddle drain system, leaks in the seals and even ring type. Not knowing these about this engine, I would start at 24 to one since it has been sitting and never exceed 32 to 1

    Rod
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  7. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    The filter puck measures 2-1/4" in diameter by 3/8" thick.

    [​IMG]

    It fits right into the mouth of the Bing carburetor.

    [​IMG]

    And then the cover clips on over it.

    [​IMG]

    There is supposed to be a hose that attaches the carburetor filter inlet to the frame, I don't have the hose (yet) but will find something eventually.
    #7
  8. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    I have most of the motorcycle apart by this time, just to replace absolutely worn out items (cables) and to figure out how things work (wiring).

    One of the questions I have now is where would I add oil and how much?

    I know this is a 2-stroke and so would not use engine oil but it should still use oil to keep the transmission lubed, right?

    There appears to be a drain plug in the bottom of the engine (and there is oily residue all over the bottom of the engine:

    [​IMG]

    I don't see anywhere on the top that would be a fill port:

    [​IMG]

    Right side is just a cover, I guess that screw hole below the badge could be a fill hole...

    [​IMG]

    Don't see anything on the left side:

    [​IMG]

    Nothing on the front:

    [​IMG]

    The back has possibilities, haven't taken that bolt out but when the engine is installed in the frame this would be completely hidden.

    [​IMG]

    Any ideas?
    #8
  9. EltonAvenue

    EltonAvenue Banned

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    #9
  10. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    I've looked through the cybermotorcycle websites and have not found much pertinent information for what I have.

    On the plus side, there is a DKW yahoo groups page which appears to be fairly active and full of knowledgeable people.

    Evidently the fill plug may be under the right side cover, the plug will also be a level guide and I'm to fill until lube runs out.
    #10
  11. jimroid

    jimroid Been here awhile

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    From what I can tell your airfilter is one of those shredded aluminum foil dust catcher things.If that is the case you can flush it with carb cleaner,or brake cleaner.
    #11
  12. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    That makes sense.
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  13. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    #13
  14. EltonAvenue

    EltonAvenue Banned

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    Thinking about the sump fill plug scenario, I wonder if the large screw on the side of the casing is like the truck back axle fill plug & you squeeze the oil in the hole until it flows out then you know it's filled to the correct level?
    #14
  15. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    I think I may have this figured out.

    The right side cover has the DKW badge screwed on. If I unscrew that badge then I open up a large hole in the side cover through which I can see the clutch. right below that badge is a screw.

    I think that I'm supposed to fill through the hole behind the DKW badge until oil drips out the screw hole below it.

    Make sense?

    [​IMG]
    #15
  16. jimroid

    jimroid Been here awhile

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    Makes sense to me.Industrial gearboxes are the same procedure for oil fill levels.If this were mine I would put Yamalube 4 stroke engine oil [Factory recommended for 2-stroke transmissions] in the trans. And I would run it at 32/1 pre-mix. Just my 2 cents worth.
    #16
  17. RustyStuff

    RustyStuff Long timer

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    The Aermacchi 50cc "Harleys" are like that, remove cover and fill.
    Nice bike, probably fairly uncommon.
    #17
  18. EltonAvenue

    EltonAvenue Banned

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    I'm thinking that you have nothing to lose by trying it....& if you think about it, they wouldn't have put such industrial sized screws there just to hold the badge on...............would they?!?!?!?:huh
    #18
  19. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    fill it like an ossa. remove badge, and fluid level screw (below the badge). fill it till it weeps out the fluid level screw hole. put the cover and screws back on. i bet it takes 500-650cc or so of fluid. you may need to leave the level screw in for a while, as when you fill it, it may run right out the weep hole.. and behind the badge is probably the clutch rod adjuster.. or mabye not.

    i bet that bottom end is a box full neutrals till you get it figured out. those external selector setups can be touchy...

    i'd run it at 24:1 and see how that goes..
    #19
  20. bisbonian

    bisbonian Long timer

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    #20