1968 Bultaco Matador m26

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by blaine.hale, Mar 20, 2011.

  1. darmst6829

    darmst6829 Been here awhile

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    Neat bike, looks like a model 10 with a 175cc cylinder? I like the straight leg forks and non-tiller upper triple clamp. I have a 250cc Matador set up as a trials bike very much the same as this.


    Dave

    Attached Files:

    #81
  2. tenorjazz

    tenorjazz Been here awhile

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    I just got a chance to ride Dave's trials bike this morning. Just putted around the driveway and a little through the woods in front of my house and it was a blast.

    He brought it by this morning so I could look at how some of the bits go together for my restoration project

    (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=660024&highlight=bultaco)

    The guy knows about Bultacos and getting them running, he has 3 running bikes, a Matador, a Sherpa and a Campera and is currently building a Metralla. All mid 60's vintage. The bike I'm restoring is also his (when I'm done I get to ride it for as long as I want or until I get my own Matador rebuilt and running).

    The cost for parts on the motor rebuild I am doing has been a few hundred dollars, and that includes stripping down the motor to the last washer, cleaning it up and putting back together with new bearings and seals. I didn't do any work on the crank or piston other than clean it. If the motor had needed a complete rebuild and I sent it off to someone else to do, it would have cost $1200 easy.

    Total rebuild might only be $400 in parts, plus anything I can find in Dave's pile of used parts. Of course I have needed to get a new compressor, some specialty tools, tap and die set, buffing wheel, blast cabinet, Powder coating system (I already had a pottery kiln $$$ that I use for my oven), air tools, and more, on top of all the tools I already had (lost track of the cost...) Then there is the time spent. I've never done this before so there is some trial and lot's of error, plus just trying to figure out how things work, on top of the labor. I figure if I was charging $10.00 an hour I could easily bill for $3500 in labor. The amount of money it takes to restore motorcycles can be a lot. Of course the money in tools can be amortized over all the motorcycles you build.

    If this is the only bike I build I figure it would cost about $8500 :D for tools, parts and labor to cover the costs.

    As far as making a really nice looking bike verses just a runner, my background as artist, sculptor and craftsman means I need to make it look great or it's not worth doing. I plan on competing with it when I'm done, but the first time I take it out of the shop I want it to look better than new! I've cleaned, painted and polished everything on this bike and even though it is taking me longer to get in running because of this, in the end I will really feel good about the work I've done.

    In the end all this squabbling over the cost of a rebuild comes down to "it depends".

    • It depends on how much work you do yourself
    • It depends on how much time or skill you have to do the work
    • It depends on how many tools you own yourself
    • It depends on what level of restoration/rebuild you want to do.

    But it doesn't matter in the end how you do it, it just matters that you take these incredible old bikes and get them running again.



    And Dave... Thanks for getting me excited again about the bikes of my youth!!



    Getting close!!!

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    #82
  3. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    Quick update:
    Got the cases split. The bearings all look and fee brand spankin' new and everything is clean. No metal shavings, loose bits or weirdness. All in all, the best condition motor I've ever had the pleasure of taking apart. I take it up to Wes (Apex cycles) this saturday to use his blasting cabinet and time/knowledge to get this motor all brand new lookin'!

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    I have real pics too, I just need to edit them and push them to flickr.
    #83
  4. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    The cases are split for blasting this saturday. Don't have pics of that yet:

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    #84
  5. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    Media blasted. Next step is powder coat the jug, polish the crank case, reassemble and ride!
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    #85
  6. PSchrauber

    PSchrauber Been here awhile

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    Mmmmh, I like these monument engine photos a lot, looks nice, keep on with posting.

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    Bultaco 6 speed 340cc engine from 1981
    #86
  7. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    I take the cylinder to be powder coated on wednesday. Does anyone know what the color code is and if it's gloss, semi-glass, satin, flat or whatever?
    I'd like to get it accurate :D
    #87
  8. skeptic

    skeptic Been here awhile

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    I'm just guessing here, but doesn't powder coating act as an insulator instead of promoting heat convection and radiation?

    I would think a thin coat of hi-temp flat black would be best from a practical (not eye-candy) perspective.

    BTW, beautiful job. And it looks like you converted your living room to a garage for this project! You are the man!
    #88
  9. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    You could be right, however, it was recommended by several mechanics and even the guy who powder coats for a living. I'll have to research more science on that :D

    Anyone have an answer on the finish of the black? I drop it off tomorrow!
    #89
  10. PSchrauber

    PSchrauber Been here awhile

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    There is only the cylinder to coat black a I know, looking on old pictures, the cylinderhead had no paintcoating, either had the enginebase.

    I would take standard heat resistant black paint for the cylinder.

    There are many roads and lane's that lead to rome. You can follow the original color schema from old pictures and photos. Or create an own one, but then you have to have a design plan in forehand!

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    #90
  11. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    Progress!
    I got the jug back today. Beautiful 55% semi-gloss black :)
    Couldn't be more happy with the results! I do, however need to get some slight over spray on the gasket surfaces. What grit paper do ya'll recommend for resurfacing? (If that is recommended)

    The crank case halves are polished and I put the transmission assembly back in. Have one more bearing to get in and I can make big progress.
    Those crank shaft bearings just fall on when you get the right temperatures!
    #91
  12. PSchrauber

    PSchrauber Been here awhile

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    Mmmh, which surface do you mean:

    - gasket surface to the main motor housing, (I would not recommend to to anything there, beside a control look, placing the halfs of the mtor housing on a mirror if you have doubts)
    I would take the normal gasket and if there are some places if there are gaps, (from former deassemblings or so ...) take this http://www.gearparts24.de/flaechendichtung-wuerth:a3655.html if it is really necessary.

    The gasket surfaces are very holy to me, I don't touch them, even not when deassembling, just cleaning that's all.

    Sidecovers can have silly marks from preowners, there I once had to take away riges of a heavy dented and cracked sidecover. I filled the gap with HT (high temperature) knead metal and aligned the filling with a cutter blade.

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    #92
  13. LasseNC

    LasseNC XSessive!

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    I think scotchbrite is awesome for finishing up gasket surfaces.

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    #93
  14. Motojournalism

    Motojournalism motojournalism.com

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    *Fixt* :thumb Makes yr D700 look like an old Kodak :lol3 Suits the bike

    Killer score, man. :ricky
    Great to see all the original tags, manual etc, I love sh*t like that.
    Just catching-up on the whole thread now...
    #94
  15. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    Thanks mate! Those photos were with my 35mm manual focus vintage lens (I forget how old.) It's my absolute favorite on the d7000 but being that it's all manual and I shoot manual mode, I kept forgetting to set aperture =/

    As to the above re-surfacing answer: Wes ran the crank case surfaces over glass and cleaned them, thats about it. The surfaces I'm referring to are the cylinder to head and cylinder to crank case where the powder coat had over spray. I'm think scotch brite may be able to get it off but I don't know if it's abrasive enough to remove powder coat. There's enough for me to worry about it causing a leak.
    I'll post pictures later today.
    #95
  16. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    Anyone want to check my work on the transmission? Everything lifted and switched as I expected when I turned the tumbler/gear selector. Neutral felt like neutral as it didn't lift and of the gear selector arms. Also, here's the newly coated cylinder and some of the over spray I was referring to.

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    All I gather from this is that I need to pressure wash my porch. :D
    #96
  17. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Hey Blaine, we missed you at the spring fling. The Bull looks great!
    #97
  18. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    I thought it was supposed to rain and my chore list was a mile high...quite frankly, I'm pissed of that I'm not there!
    #98
  19. PSchrauber

    PSchrauber Been here awhile

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    Really nice work, indeed.

    No issues visable on first sight, is your head mounted with or without a
    headgaskrt?

    My bike did not have amy, older ones - but not so old as yours - had a
    copper gasket.

    Very interesting for me too, you have "omly" have 6 fasteners, the newer
    ones had 8, (4 bolts 14 mm and 6 screws M13), with a fixed sequence
    which to get loose first abd which had to thighten first, ... (you have to
    switch frm 13 to 14 ... all the time, ... very time-consuming.

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    If you have a gasket, try to use a very sharp cutter blade and carfully
    plane the exessive color away.

    To plane the cylinderhead , the cylinder om top or base or parts of it
    should IMHO not be done by hand, no grinding, no self milling by hand.
    To plane the head or the cylinder it is a job that has to be done by a
    machine.

    BTW:
    I am too a little bit jaleaus about the good status of your gear selector
    and tumbler, mine where broken and it took a lot of time to find a new
    replacement one.

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    #99
  20. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    this bike is going to look awesome. Even if it doesn't, the photography will make up for it. Great job, man! Can't wait to hear it run!