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Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by Skowinski, Aug 30, 2011.
I like your garage help!
Now that I have a '72 cb500 I'm seeing them all over the internet. It doesn't help that I've been looking for build threads either
Just wanted to throw in AllBallsRacing.com, they also have the tapered roller neck bearings, along with conversions and charts with a shit-ton of bikes listed so you can make your own conversions.
I'm trying to remember the name of the website, but there are companies that make triple trees to use gixxer forks, and hubs to use the gixxer brakes with a spoked rim. Check out some of the 500/550 builds on sohc4.
One last thing, this thread may help with the reassembly, it is very detailed with lots of pics. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=86697.0
Here are a few pics of my 1972 CB500:
Already tried that.
Tunahelper - I'm onto the tapered steering head bearings. No way would I reinstall the loose balls... uggh, wrestled with those too many times in the past.
^^^ That's a nicely done 72 rkleen!
Picked up a 71 Monday and just started to look for build threads. Like what you're doing. Keep it coming.
Back at it lately. To extract the primary shaft from a CB500 crankcase use the rear engine mount plus a 36mm socket. Place a washer on the nut to protect it. Replaces the official Honda primary shaft slide hammer removal tool. Problem solved.
Here's my K0, first road registered in New Zealand late February 1971; I restored it in about 1996, IIRC.
It was a really good road bike, so I removed the lights and stands, put a 4-1 and a braided front brake line on it, did a bit of lockwiring, and took it to Phillip Island January 2003 when I was racing some real historic racers as well.
It was hilarious; WFO the whole time, did 2:10s, backing it into MG and buzzing down Doohan Straight with my left hand holding the fork leg....
Great seeing the old bikes on the track pjay!
All clearances and specs are good, crankshaft bearings, ball and roller bearings, starter clutch, rods, transmission, shift forks, all well within specifications. No apparent significant wear on anything.
All transmission dogs and engagement slots show no wear or rounding. Amazing for an engine with about 31,000 miles, according to odometer, and unknown history, likely involving some hillbillies along the way.
Bottom end is now going back together with new OEM Honda seals, primary chain and cam chain, and then to be slung into the frame, the rest will be built on from there.
Closeup of transmission.
Crankcase halves assembled.
Torqueing the bolts.
One bolt went in normally, finger tight, put the wrench on it, and it snapped before even starting to get tight. Must have fractured on removal and was ready to break.
Oh well, new bolt ordered, and back apart the crankcase halves come.
Good to see you back in the game, we're watching.
Back at it. That broken crankcase bolt was extracted and replaced, crankcase halves are now back together, again. Starter motor dissassembled, cleaned, inspected, continuity checked.
It was filthy.
New brushes and brush springs installed.
Oil pump dissassembled, clearances checked, all ok. Reassembled with new oil pressure switch, 0-rings, and screws.
Triple clamp assembly with new tapered roller bearings, greased.
Rebuilt forks with new Forking by Frank (Franks Maintenance and Engineering) chrome inner tubes installed.
Rebuilding the wheels is next up.
Almost forgot, of course when the new drain bolt and washer (original bolt was butchered) was installed and torqued it stripped out the threads in the oil pan. I couldn't count the times I've ran across this problem with used bikes. It seems most that venture so far as to change their own oil feel it's necessary to reinstall the drain bolt like a gorilla would. Repaired the threads with a heli-coil insert and mounted the pan with a new 0-ring.
Or you are actually from Krypton, and just didn't know it.
Original front wheel on the bike.
Cleaned up hub and new spoke/nipple set.
Starting to lace up the hub to a cleaned up rim. Since this was a first time lacing up wheels, the order was a bit off and had to take some back out and start again.
Truing it up. Still working on that, it's a bit tedious for a beginner.
The rear wheel, sprocket removed and cleanup started. The old tire is from Sears, I'm sure that dates back a few years, and it appears to be made of hard plastic now. The spokes are toast, heavily corroded.
The rear sprocket carrier is held on by the reverse-threaded stainless steel retainer ring with 4 holes in it. Honda used to make a special tool, of course. I went to Lowes, bought some stuff, and fabricated a tool, it got bent up getting the ring off, but worked.
For anyone else planning this, be aware that the damn thing is staked to prevent it from unscrewing... the only problem is the staking was done through the holes, and I couldn't see it. Didn't read about it anywhere either. I had no idea until it finally came off, so I basically was a gorilla on this one. The threads seem ok though.