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Discussion in '2 smokers' started by przjohn, Dec 18, 2013.
You are kicking some butt! Great winter project you have going.
Be careful....be very careful !
P.S. Will she be done by spring?
And now your quickest normally aspirated H2 in the world: Joe Bird/Bill Baxter.firstname.lastname@example.org.
That is my goal, to be ready for the 2 Stroke Meet in Deals Gap NC beginning of May. Yesterday I finally found an NOS sealed beam for the bike as well as an NOS headlight ring. I am pretty sure that is about it for things I need that are NOS. I have yet to go deep into the motor but with the cylinders off the crank looks good and no corrosion. I will tear it apart next weekend.
A couple of Winters ago I ended up getting both of these bikes done over one Winter,
This 77 KH400
And this 84 RZ350
If everything goes smooth the begining of may should be possible.
You are going to change crank seals, etc aren't you? Might as well send the tranny to R&D as long as it's apart...
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Yes the crank is going to be sent out. I will look at the tranny, but that should be within my capabilities.
I have been enjoying your posts. Great workmanship... really!
I have a few general questions on these multi-cylinder 2-stroke cranks.
- What is the deal with the main seals between the flywheels. I am imagining that you have to press the crank apart to change them? Are they keyed some how to keep the crank pins in the correct relationship to each other?
- About a year ago I looked at a Yamaha yds3 (twin cylinder). I seem to recall the guy telling me the center crank seal was replaceable without splitting the crank... don't recall the details of this. Maybe you know?
- If you don't mind me asking, what is the range in cost one might expect to rebuild a crank for your bike? And are you doing just the seals or the whole thing (seals, rods, bearings). I can rebuild a single cylinder 2-stoke crank but am leery about trying a twin or triple :eek1. How did you find your crank rebuilder?
Thanks and keep up the great work!
The crank gets minimum new seals and bearings. From there it is inspected to see if it needs rods. Last one I had rebuilt was an H2 750 crank that also needed new rods and that ran me $1,000.00 for everything. The rod kit alone is about $350 I think. I will probably send this one out to HVC Cycle who did my last one, I was happy with their work.
The center seals are on one side of the bearings. The cranks are pressed together , no keys. Harley cranks aren't keyed either.
Yes the trannys are simple, there a lot of good reading on how to shim it properly, the biggest issue is getting the kickstart spring on properly and even that's not rocket surgery
Have you given any thought to what kind of crank seal you are going to use? Porsche Dave in California has a good reputation for triple crank rebuilding.
Nice to see this bike saved.
I bought this exact model new in Australia,rode it on the road and raced it.
Heaps of fun,fondly remembered,scary handling was excting
Porsche Dave has an excellent reputation and may try him on this one if he has the time available. I have used both Labyrinthe and standard seals with good results. The Kstart issue has never been a problem, though now I just jinxed this one. :huh
Going to be a really nice restoration!
Finally got to the rolling chassis this weekend. One of the toughest things to assemble for me seems to be getting the front end attached to the frame without having everything head to the floor. It sounds simple enough, but by yourself attaching the forks and frame to the front wheel always seems to be a balancing act for me. This time I attached the wheel to the lift and kind of wobble walked the frame and forks to it, seemed to work good.
Getting the rolling chassis together was a big milestone but most of the work this weekend centered around the engine. The crank is now ready to go out for a complete rebuild of seals, bearings, and rods. This is an expensive job and is critical in a 2T restore as the seals must be replaced to have a "New" motor, and, since this is a multi cylinder motor you need to disassemble the crank to do that. I am going to contact Porsche Dave from the Triples site to see if he will rebuild it. The real time consuming part of this weekend was cleaning the cases. It starts with a trip to the car wash, then scrubbing with parts cleaner, and lastly a very fine glass bead. The glass bead needs to be done a few times as there is still dirt that needs to be Dremel wire brushed off from these old cases. I have read about guys who don't glass bead because of either failure potential or because the cases dirty quickly. I clean the bejesus out of them and blow out every orifice and screw hole. There is absolutely no glass bead left in there. I also use an extremely fine bead that doesn't make the substrate suseptible to holding dirt afterwards, almost as fine as soda blasting. It has worked well for me on past restorations. Here is a before and after of the cases and the crank ready to be boxed and shipped. Notice no corrosion at all on the crank, a real good sign.
So, when you do a restoration and spend most of the weekend cleaning cases it is nice to take 5 minutes and bolt on some eye candy. That way, end of day, you can open a beer and admire more of your work. Is it no surprise that is my favorite part of the day? Here is the new hydraulic stabilizer mounted up. I am not putting the static stabilizer back on the triple clamps. Here is a pic of the hydraulic unit mounted and the triple clamps with a standard Kawasaki bolt and washer instead of the static stabilizer. Notice the new fork caps and all mounting bolts are new reproduction too.
I know a guy that specializes in these cranks. Let me know if you want the link.
This was another weekend of prep work. Saturday was spent cleaning heads and cylinders. The cylinders are in the truck and will be dropped off at Eastwood Machine in Somers, CT. With the crank now safely delivered to Dave Singleton, AKA Porchedave in California the engine build should come together in a few weeks.
Another prep job that got done was the front caliper rebuild. I have been using Zip Strip to remove paint from parts first and then using a fine bead to remove the last bits. Seems to be easier as the fine glass bead doesn't remove paint well. Here is a before first, then the housings painted with the kit including new piston, and finally the caliper on the bike.
The next job that was to be tackled was the seat.
But then there was this surprise. The seat pan is N/G. I have ordered a new reproduction one from Z1 Enterprises.
So, it was move on to the front pegs.
The springs, washers, and clips were all run through the Zinc plate process.
Then attached to the freshly painted stalks with new reproduction grips.