1978 R100S :: final tweaks?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by mspa, Aug 26, 2012.

  1. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

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    Photo below shows the slotted nut. At a minimum, clean the grease out from under the top plate and verify your slotted nut is still there.

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    #41
  2. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

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    The best grips I know are BMW part# 32721458395 & 32721458396
    About $10 each, under $25 a pair with tax.
    Here they are shown on my ST1300, I have them on my Suzuki Wee Strom and Bandit 1200/S too.

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    #42
  3. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

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    From the photos it looks like you have a Super Sport type bar on there already. Before getting in too deep with new bars etc. I would suggest replacing those silly pull back risers and ebay yourself a set of proper BMW bar clamps.
    e,g, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-BMW-R1...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d4a81750&vxp=mtr

    I think you will find that the bars you have there will give you the clubman look/feel you're going for.

    Once you get the bars remounted you might consider shortening your bars (hacksaw required) it looks like you have enough room for the controls to still fit properly after shortening the bars. :ricky

    These are the BMW "S" bars (clubman?) that I'm installing on my PROJECT-S[FONT=&quot]http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684054[/FONT]

    C20: Chrome Flanders BMW R90S Bar (Magura style 478-46300), http://www.flandersco.com/
    [​IMG]
    #43
  4. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

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    #44
  5. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    A word about this slotted nut you are after. Once the top clamp is off and the slotted nut is off the triple and the lower part of the clamp will drop. It might be held up a bit by cables or something so don't damage stuff and clean then grease the lower bearing too. You'll want to use brake cleaner or carb cleaner to get the old grease out but make sure it is dry before adding new grease. The top bearing is much easier to clean and grease, you will have it in your hand.

    When placing the slotted nut over the shiny washer that protects the bearing notice that the slotted nut is chamfered. (I think I spelled that right. It's a word not in spell checker) The slotted nut is smaller on one side than the other. Notice that one end is flat and the other end has tapered edges. The side with tapered edges has a smaller contact area. The side with the smaller contact area goes down against the bearing and the side with the full contact area goes up against the top clamp.
    #45
  6. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I'll have to wait til tomorrow to investigate, but some good tips. I heard from from Hucky's on the 27/36 combo tool and some other parts. Those bearings aren't cheap so I hope it doesn't need those. If it does, I'll just have to wait and pay attention to the feel while riding.

    Tink, I will probably hack the bars. I don't mind the style at all, but getting narrower will be preferable. I have a hacksaw, and chopsaw, which I may try. I'd like to successfully get the left side grip off and heard I can do with my air compressor and WD40, or something like that. I'll check before doing.

    I have Napoleon mirrors ready to go, so I may do this weekend, even if I can't find risers in the next day. I can do the risers later. I talked to someone yesterday that deals in parts in my area. We'll see . . .

    Oh, and Tink, I don't mind trying to hookup when you're in town. Just pm me.
    #46
  7. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Disston, thanks, I'll be careful. What is the type of grease I want to get?
    #47
  8. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I use wheel bearing grease. There are some expensive ones sold in motorcycle stores. I have one of those. A tub will last you a lifetime maybe, it lasts me five or ten years. I get another just because I've had them so long and I think too much junk has fallen in the tub. Try to keep the lid on. The ordinary "High Temp Disk Brake Wheel Bearing Grease" sold at the neighborhood Auto Parts Super store will work fine also.

    If you need bearings we are going to direct you to a company named Alls Balls or something like that. They are much, much cheaper. We won't let you use the cheaper bearings in some places but they work fine in the steering stem. Much cheaper. I think mine were $25 for the pair) I think.

    Hucky is the right place to get the tool. He has it in stock. Most dealers will keep you waiting forever while they back order it.

    You are going to have the forks open and there will be a little bit of fork oil splashed out the top when you take the parts off to get the top clamp off. It won't be more than a few drops. Don't worry about it. Don't do this job in the rain if you can help it. You are not going to do anything else other than grease the steering stem bearings. Of course if you see something that looks amiss and have more questions you should investigate. Don't put anything together that doesn't look right.

    There are some gaskets sealing the tops of the forks with those nuts and things. Be careful with them and they should be reusable.

    When putting the nut back in the fork tube that holds the top of the fork spring there will be a lot of pressure needed to hold this in while you start the thread. I use a brass drift that I can push down with one hand while starting the thread with the other. This is one of those places that an extra hand may come in handy, but I was able to do it on my own.

    Make sure you use the counter torqued bar when tightening up on the center nut. This nut is very tight although I don't think I have mine as tight as the book says.
    #48
  9. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Good news!! The slotted nut is in there :) I looked and there is a visible piece about 1/8" thick with notches in it that I assume MUST be the slotted nut?!?!!

    You can't see it as well as I can live and in person, so I outlined a green box around where the slot is on both sides. I found more than two slots.

    View from left side.

    [​IMG]

    From right side view. There is actually another slot to the left of the slotted nut. You should be able to see some shadow on the leftmost edge.

    [​IMG]
    #49
  10. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Is it safe to say that my problem was just the cap nut? Will having the slotted nut tightened properly force the steering tube to stay centered in the top plate before putting the cap nut in place? What concerned me to begin with was that I had to apply force to the wheel to lift the forks and center the fork tube in order to get the collar on the cap nut around the tube and centered in the top plate hole. Make sense?

    I'm really hoping this is great news. Save money on the slotted nut, and hopefully I can turn my attention to getting those barbacks off tomorrow, cutting the bar, and sorting out the steering position and installing mirrors tomorrow. That would sure be nice . . .

    Then the only other really bothersome item would be to replace the front tire.

    Well, I'd like to get the carbs synced too, but that's not as serious as the other stuff.
    #50
  11. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Good. Glad you found it. It really never made any sense for it too not be there.

    The top nut still came loose and the whole thing should still came apart as much as we have discussed to inspect, clean and grease. I guess you might wait till you get your new stock bar brackets. I hope this part, that was several days ago, is part of your plan (Those bar backs you have are a couple of the ugliest I've ever seen on an Airhead) The stock bar backs go really cheap but you have to wait till you can snag a pair not being sold by a high priced junk dealer guy.

    You have the wrench for the slotted nut. Is it tight? If it is the handle bar should be able to fall to the side with very little pressure. It should fall to the side almost or actually on it's own. I think this is the way it is put in the manual. What I do is is I tighten it by feel. That may be a learned thing. It might be a good idea for you to read the manual to get an idea of how tight this nut needs to be from the book or somebody else. I don't think I do it the way in the book.
    #51
  12. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    My plan is definitely to get some stock risers. I don't want junk and I don't need brand spankin new.

    I can tell you I think the nut is tight. A slight wind can move the handlebar either way. The steering feel has been fine. I think having the front tire on the wrong way has some effect on "feel" as I steer. But the bike is still a joy. I am just glad a part is not missing. That would certainly have caused reason to worry about bearings.

    I'll check the nut with the tool tomorrow and report back on that. Then I think my next post should be when I find risers. I will keep checking back in case someone posts a link from ebay or something. That last post for risers, well, I'd like to find something a little cleaner and closer. If I can find something in the $20-30 ballpark locally, that would be sweet. But I agree, those Space Ace's are ugly on this bike.
    #52
  13. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Did we decide you have after market bars? I forget. The stock BMW bars are 22mm. Most after market bars are 7/8 inch. People think this is the same. They are not. If these are after market bars they are most likely 7/8s and you will have trouble putting them in stock mounts.

    Things get messy when people put non-stock parts on a Beemer. You have to decide if you willl need to hog out the stock mounts, get another set of bars (bars can be expensive) or keep those barbacks. If you try to put stock bars on this bike will the controls (the switches and levers on the ends) fit anymore.

    There are threads here all the time, I remember one a week ago, about putting some other bars on an Airhead and we tell everybody "Don't do this." They never fucking listen. Next time you see one of those threads you tell the NooB what you think about his idea.

    (Gawd, I love being a crotchety old fart) :lol3
    #53
  14. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Haha, crotchety is okay disston :) I get that way on occasion.

    These are after market bars, so as you say, they should be 7/8". The way I'm measuring looks really close. Is it possible the controls were not hogged out to fit? If not, sounds like getting a new set of bars to go with stock risers is the way to go. If do that, maybe I'll have to go chrome. I guess the black Napoleon mirrors should look fine with chrome bars.
    #54
  15. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    No don't buy new bars just yet. Often times I hear the 7/8s bars are maybe just not as thick as they could be so the controls are still OK. And they may even fit the stock mounts. The worse scene is if you had to but new controls I guess. For now just get the stock mounts. It will take several weeks or longer for a set to show up that isn't over priced.

    So you are satisfied with the bars themselves right? So right now just see if they can be made to fit the stock bar mounts. Then everything is hunky dory. Some day if stock bars are done the only thing you're out is the bar mounts maybe.

    We don't know if the OP took a Dremel tool to the controls. That is sometimes done because the controls will break on too large a bar. For now be careful with this set up.
    #55
  16. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I know the seller and when he's back in town in a few days, I'll know for certain. I think the bars are fine. I don't think clubman style bars fit the current two-seater look of the bike. If I take off the side bag frame and put in a cafe seat and so on, I'd go that route, but I think it's a proper tasty look to keep with the bars I have or stock bar—with stock risers—and just rotate to a better position.

    The measurement I'm getting from where I assume the bar ends inside of the grips on my current bars, is 29" wide. With my Napoleon mirrors attached, the width (at mount base) will be about 31" wide, and edge to edge of the mirrors are 36". Why is this a problem? Well, the fence gate I have to go through is 35.5", which makes it tricky to get through with mirrors. Yeah, stupid problem until I can afford to put a new fence up on that side of the house (which I plan to do) but for now . . .

    I do want narrower bars, but not for that reason. Just another consideration in the short term. So cutting them down 1.5" each side will bring them down to about 26" wide. I notice the Flanders Magura C20 bars have more pullback, which may be the best option for me. But if my current bars will work on stock risers, I'd rather try them out and if I find I want more pullback and the angled hand position of the C20 bars, I can buy those later when budget allows.
    #56
  17. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    So I'd like to replace the front tire and am trying to decide if I want to try that myself or pay a local shop $80 plus tax to do. While I know the shop will do it right, and let me know if they see any safety issues, I'd kinda like to do myself. Of course, that would feel a little better if I had a "pro" airhead to help me.

    I have the Clymer's guide to walk me through the process, but reading it makes it sound easier than it looks. For instance, I don't see how I can manuever the axle out from both side while the rotors in between the pads. The pads look to be right up to the surface with no room to wiggle . . . then there is the part of balancing the wheel, which I can't do, and using a truing stand??

    I can't imagine what I'd do if I got a flat. I have an extra tube under the seat, but I would think that if you had to do all this out on the road, you'd probably just want to ride to a shop for "proper" inspection and possibly correcting your work.

    If I do try this tomorrow or Monday, I'm wondering if the High Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing grease is all I need. The book mentions using cold grease on the spacers and multipurpose grease on the axle before reinstalling. Can I use the same grease on all parts?

    If the wheel seems to be aligned and balanced now, should I even be concerned? If balancing should be done each time the wheel/tire is changed, I would think going to a shop is the best course of action.
    #57
  18. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    My weekend is shaping up nicely!

    Got the stock riser sorted out (many thanks to a fellow airhead mentor) and I'm going to run up to a local shop to get that front tire changed with a new tire in the proper direction. $29 for changing and $30 for outside mounts? (balancing weights?). Still a better deal than at the beemer dealer and I can safely ride this Labor Day weekend :clap
    #58
  19. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    My braces are gusseted and have a cross brace. Is this something that was done later?

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    #59
  20. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Will the flat part of this wrench get in the way of stock risers? I don't want to buy a tool that will require me to pull the handlebars and risers off in order to use. I know a 36mm deep socket would work, with the benefit of using on a torque wrench for good measure. I just want to spend what money I have, wisely . . . and if that means buying a torque wrench and 36mm deep socket, I'll go that route. If so, wouldn't mind recommendations on an affordable quality torque wrench.
    #60