1978 R100S :: final tweaks?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by mspa, Aug 26, 2012.

  1. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Well, I found out that the Bikemaster American Superbike bars I have were originally mounted on stock risers . . . so maybe that means they are 22mm??? At least I know they will fit, Disston :D
    #61
  2. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Don't worry about the bars - they'll work as-is. All you've gotta do is fold in the mirrors, turn the wheel to one side getting that one through, then roll forward a little while leaning a little and get the other side through. That's how I've done it with the living-room bikes. :evil

    As for the forks - no need to pull them all apart! If they're working, save it for a winter day to service them. If the steering bearing pre-load is too loose, adjust it with the hook wrench. And it sounds like it's a little loose. The problem with loose steering bearings is it's possible oscillations can occur - other wise known as a TANK SLAPPER. Not to be taken lightly!

    I don't like using the 36mm flat box wrench since it scars the nut. If it's needed on the road, well, it can't be helped. But in the shop I use a box wrench or socket. And, yes, that nut locates the top clamp. The whole assembly will wobble until locked into position by that nut.

    One thing you might not be able to tell without taking off the top clamp, or at least loosening it up, is the slotted nut can go on the wrong way. Only one way is right. It's bevelled on one side, which points down to the bearing. It's flat on the side that supports the top tree.

    And as for the tire - don't worry about it! The reason it's got a direction marking is that it's stronger one way than the other. If it rolls smooth, not lumpy, and doesn't vibrate, just turn it around! The cheap thing to do is swap the discs side to side, but even there, it's not a big deal. Just turning the wheel around is probably just fine. So the brake pads will need to re-seat to the discs... big deal! They'll still stop just fine. I've done it with my bikes before and never really noticed a difference.

    Frankly, the thing to be concerned about is the steering bearing pre-load. Get that sucker right and go ride! Save your money for gas!
    #62
  3. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    You'll be able to see the bike in the not too distant future WS, and if I haven't taken the top plate apart, you'll see close up and I think agree that the slotted nut is on right. I can tell with the thickness of the part of the nut that is the "top" is flat up against the top clamp, and from looking down from above, I can tell there is no taper. The side to side movement feels right and is bouncy (laterally speaking) and as much as I hand tightened the cap nut, it hasn't moved.

    Your tricky idea for the mirrors getting through the gate came to mind. I find myself doing that as-is if I don't enter the gateway dead center . . . by the way, what are you doing putting bikes in the living room? :)

    Today brought a new thing to look at. A few oil drips on the ground, which I haven't had in two months. I'm going to clean the general area tomorrow and go for a ride. When I get back, I should be able to sort out where it's coming from. I noticed it on the rear left side of the oil pan. There was a little bulging bit of clean oil near the corner. Since the oil was clean with no grit or dirt, I'm hoping it just blew down from the oil dipstick cap. FYI, I park on the center stand. I had checked the oil and may not have gotten the oil cap tight. I just tightened, carefully. Actually, loosened, then tightened to make sure I didn't overdo it. I am changing the oil in 500 miles (about 5 weeks).

    The second thing to look at is the oil switch which was new when the seller did engine work back in 2005. The pan gasket shouldn't leak. I checked all the pan bolts and they are tight. Looking around the bottom, there is some moist dirt in the normal places.

    If I don't get the drip tomorrow, I'll know it was the oil dipstick cap. Otherwise, I assume from what the seller told me to look at, is the pushrod tubes.
    #63
  4. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Good idea to clean driveway but is easier to see oil drips on a large piece of cardboard.
    #64
  5. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Here's a pic of where I have seen oil.

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    The green circle shows where the spill over seemed to be on Saturday. I wiped the areas that could have oil seeping . . . did cold startup to warm engine. Turned off, and got gear on. Oil started to weep down. I wiped off, and rode a few miles to the store. Same thing. Both times no dripping on ground. Went to one more store and home. Each time just enough oil to see, but no substantial amount. Always from the same spot. Got home and have checked several times in the last 3 hours. Not oily at all.

    Obviously, it's not a serious leak, but this may prove to be a nuisance leak.
    #65
  6. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    #66
  7. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    Good thing the slotted nut was there. Well hidden f'sure and it didn't make sense if it wasn't there...good result.

    The oil on that shelf is usually from the rear main seal or the oil pump...no reason it can't be a diy job and reasonably cheap.
    #67
  8. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I'm hoping worse case scenario is a gasket that's not too difficult to fix. I have an oil change coming up in about 500 miles/5 weeks. If this starts getting worse, that will have to happen sooner.
    #68
  9. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Most likely candidate for this oil leak is the rear main oil seal. Other candidates are the oil pump O-ring and the fromt transmission seal. No gaskets up there that would be a simple fix. You might as well start planning right now that this is going top be one of your Winter projects. You could put it off for quit a while but it will not get better on it's own. It will be getting worse actually.
    #69
  10. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I communique'd with the seller and I think we have it narrowed down to the Neutral Indicator Switch Seal. I got some light in the area I lovingly call "the cave" (in between the shelf and tranny), and everything is dry. But I noticed the wire and black plastic harness that is to the left of the greased up NIS seal was glistening and the greasy mass had some oilyness to it. I carefully cleaned the wire off without disturbing the grease, and fired up the engine to run a bit. But no leak. I'm going to check again before I go to work tomorrow and take a white paper towel with me. If I see oily stuff on that wire again, I'm going to wipe to see if it is oil. This has a ceramic housing that seals against copper, so they eventually leak.

    [​IMG]
    #70
  11. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I'm ready to install the stock risers I received today, thanks D !!! But ran into some questions . . .

    Stock risers and 7/8" bars
    I have 7/8" Bikemaster Superbike bars that cause a 1/8" gap on the risers. I haven't tightened the nuts, but I can't imagine this decreasing much. Is this normal?

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    Spacer under top plate reduces amount of threaded stud for nut.
    There is a spacer piece with white rubber washers under the triple tree top plate. Is this a stock piece, or possibly an add-on for the Space Ace barbacks I just took off? The threaded studs on the risers aren't long enough to go all the way through the nuts, so I'm wondering if it's a bad idea, or okay, to thread the studs back out a 1/8" to have more stud underneath for the nut?

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    Control grip removal and grease.
    The current bars have plastic plugs and the left grip is really on tight. I don't think it's glued, but I obviously can't put my air compressor hose in the right side to help "blow out" since that plug is in there. Any tips?

    Can anyone tell me about the graphite colored grease that is under the right throttle grip? Do I need to use a certain type?

    I can't ride my bike till I get this stuff figured out, so I'm hoping to at least figure out if the current bars are okay with the risers, AND some solution for the riser studs and spacer under the top plate. However, there will still be an issue of tank clearance with the controls. I couldn't rotate the bar or grips where I want and not hit the tank. I really want full steering angle without damaging the tank . . . so clubman bars may become necessary.
    #71
  12. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I got to do something fun on the bike today. It took me a few hours (trying to be careful), but I got the stock risers installed, using my current Bikemaster Superbike bars, and put my Napoleon mirrors on. I like the difference in feel while riding, and really like the improved vision with the mirrors.

    The process was interesting to me because I found the need to do a rough install so I could position the bars and cut the ends off. I did the left side first to make sure my thinking was sound :) I removed the grip on the left side first, cut a hole big enough for the mirror's rubber stub to slide through tightly. I think I installed the bars four times to check various geometry to make sure the controls didn't hit the tank and also have clearance for the fairing. I did take the fairing off for space to work.

    Here's some pics.

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    Tank clearance
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    #72
  13. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    #73
  14. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    One thing I had suspected might be a problem is a problem to some degree. The rubber grip and mount on the Napoleon mirror are "grippy" and so when I let off the throttle, well, I can't, I have to roll the throttle down manually. This takes a little getting used to, but I'm thinking I need two very thin nylon or plastic washers to put between both parts so the throttle can release on it's own. Does that make sense?

    I'd appreciate ideas on this. Also, I removed what I think was a graphite lubricant on the bar so the throttle sleeve would slip back to zero. I wiped much of it off after it seemed to not work as well after the work I did, and BEFORE putting the mirrors on. So before putting the mirrors on, the throttle was already a slight issue.

    So I really need to address the lubrication and the washers for slippage between grip and bar end mirror base.
    #74
  15. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Here's a few more pics to show how the bike looks with the bars in stock position with new bar end mirrors.

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    Yes, my bike is almost the same color as my truck. When I found the bike on CL—after other deals falling through—I thought this was meant to be mine.

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    #75
  16. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    After repositioning my bars, I have even more slack in the clutch cable. If you look at the pics below, you'll see the slack along the right front side, and also up at the bar how I have the adjustor way out, and the cable running through the center cable hole in the top plate. I have no idea how this effects my adjustment process. But I went for a ride today and the bike rides great other than the same slipping in the upper range. If I drive "normal" as in not speeding, there is no problem. So you could say the bike is perfect as long as I am a good boy.

    I started another thread about my neutral indicator switch because it was leaking even more today after this ride today. I'm going to check the tranny fluid since the flywheel is dry. I hope the fluid level is still good, but I don't want to drive myself nuts trying to adjust the cable if this is a contributing factor.

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    Should I assume that the 1410mm lenth on MAX BMW (part# 32 73 2 324 958) should work? I plan to measure the cable on it tomorrow. It doesn't look like the photo (below).

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    #76
  17. Les_Garten

    Les_Garten Been here awhile

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    Really like what you have going on here. Whoever did your paint looks like they did a great job!

    One pointer and a question.

    What did you use for the plugs on the tailpiece where the grab rail was?

    There is a better neutral switch out there I think. You might want to do a search for it. One that is less prone to leaks. Somebody told me about this but I can't recall all the details.
    #77
  18. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Thanks Les!

    The guy I bought the bike from painted the bike. He used to be a bike tech for H-D and BMW dealers. It's not perfect, but I think I got a way better bike than I originally thought about getting back into biking. With something this big, I didn't want a beauty queen that I might drop and curse myself to no end. Despite little niggly things to deal with, I'm really in love with this bike.

    As for the black plastic hole covers, I'll take a better look tomorrow. They aren't all matching, but I'll let you know what I find, and post a pic or two if I think it will help you. I like the clean look and my wife will probably never sit on this thing anyway, and if she does, she'll be holding onto me :D

    Thanks for the pointer on the switch. I remember the parts guy at the dealer saying those have a tendency to go bad. I wish BMW just came up with a better design. But if you find a link for the part you are talking about, please come back and post.
    #78
  19. r77toy

    r77toy Been here awhile

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    Slide the throttle assembly inboard.
    #79
  20. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Did that. Still not moving freely, even without the mirror on, so maybe it's the lube between bar and throttle sleeve? Or maybe it's in the grip, involving the gear mechanism?

    I tried to clean off the graphite colored lube on the bar since it wasn't slipping. Sprayed some TriFlow on there. Today, I took the throttle grip cover off to see if something was going on in there. Well, in the process of doing that, the cable ends came out, and I may have reversed the position of those. But in the middle of all that, I pulled the throttle sleeve out and it "floats" around on the handlebar just fine. So the "friction" seems to be when it's fully engaged with the gear in housing. I initially pulled the throttle out to make sure it was aligned, since yesterday, I did pull the cover off to inspect, and the gear popped out, so I had to put back in. I just centered it in place without thinking "did I rotate the throttle sleeve?"

    I just pulled the grip control back out on the bar to give the throttle cables more room, as before, and even more. No effect, so it's not the cables, or the bend. This has to be either a lubrication issue, or something is going on in the grip when the throttle sleeve is in all the way. The gear has plenty of lube in there. It's messy to handle it. Also a graphite colored lubrication, but seems thicker than what was on the bar previous to the bar mod.
    #80