1978 R100S :: final tweaks?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by mspa, Aug 26, 2012.

  1. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Got the throttle grip figured out. Had to sand down the paint on the bar. Went for a test drive and sweet!!

    Oh, I highly recommend the Napoleon mirrors. They are pricey at $35 each, but the view is amazing!!

    Now I need to figure out my clutch cable, as in getting my clutch adjusted, AND double check to see if the neutral switch is leaking as I suspect it is.

    [update] That darn switch is leaking. I stuck my finger on it tonight (still hot and that smarts) and it was wet. I wish there was an easy way to fix. I should be happy it's something small like that and not a bigger more pricey problem.

    Am I wishing too much that soon I'll be done with little niggly stuff and can enjoy a few months with no repair stuff? I have close to 1300 miles on the bike and will be doing a oil change, etc. soon, and wondering when I'm going to be doing a valve adjust. I'm looking forward to getting on a "regular" maintenance schedule . . .
    #81
  2. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    There are two fastener types. Here are pics of both. I'm pretty sure you can get at the local hardware store if they have a good assortment of fasteners.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #82
  3. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Getting excited about my first big drive this weekend. I'm taking the bike down to Wirespokes to fix the odometer and maybe get a second opinion on how the bike is setup.

    The clutch adjustment seems to be fine as long as I don't wrench on the throttle, and I patched my neutral switch with Ultra Black, so should be all set.

    Next tweak will be cleaning up the wiring up at the bars and headlight, relocating the fuses back inside the headlight, and generally dealing with the additional length on wiring from relocating the bars back to stock.
    #83
  4. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I just got back from a weekend introducing my bike to Wirespokes. It was time to just get my odometer fixed and I really wanted a more experienced airhead to look at how I had my clutch adjusted to see if I had screwed up. I figured it would be nice to also have him look over the bike to help me zero in on "final tweaks".

    Over two days, not only did he fix my speedo/odometer, but he really went out of his way to zero in on things I would have missed. He adjusted the carbs. He re-routed all cables to accommodate the bar being back in the stock position. He addressed the steering cap nut that had been getting loose. We did my first oil change with oil filter and air filter. Replaced all fuel lines. Relocated the ground on for the Dyna III ignition, that was grounded to the screw for the voltage regulator. He relocated the fuses to back in the headlight bucket, and basically cleaned up the two big clusters of control wiring in the insulator. I even learned how to take the gas tank off—a few times.

    One thing I'm really glad for is the timing. He noticed that my center stand bolts are bent. So I have to address that pronto. I'm going to see if my local shop has the parts. I know MAX does, but if I can get in the next day or two, that's better.

    Also, the clutch is still slipping at high speeds when WOT puts the engine under duress. At least that's how I think of it. I hope to find out tomorrow if the guy I bought the bike from—what parts he replaced when he did the clutch job. Maybe it's just lube/grease that got flung off the splines? We noticed that he overlubed the mechanism for the rear brake, so it's possible.

    I am still going to buy a new neutral switch and I'll most likely visit Wirespokes another time to help reposition my fairing into the proper position—a little further forward—so we can bend the front turn indicator stems back down and run through the fairing. I'm sure there will be some other thing we'll want to address.

    Wirespokes is a super nice guy to hang out with, and for me, it was like having your older brother teach you about your first airhead. A great time well spent!!

    I'll post some pics soon. I'm still too tired tonight.
    #84
  5. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    So I found out today that the work on the clutch last spring was replacing the friction disk and spring. The pressure plate and flywheel was in spec, and they were not resurfaced, since you shouldn't do that. It may be that spline grease has flung out onto the surfaces.
    #85
  6. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    After the work that Wirespokes did this past weekend, I have an updated list of to-do's. Here it is listed by priority.

    1) Center stand bolts are bent -- I am hoping this is simply bent bolts that need replacing. One side has the bolt head appearing to be angled into the side hole. I just looked and the spacers are a little cock-eyed in the mounting holes, it appears because the way the bolts are bent. I'm hoping that the bolts are the only thing to buy.

    2) Clutch -- based off the parts that were replaced last spring (see above post), I need to determine the best course of action to resolve. It's not a bad situation if I keep my speeds under 75 and don't wrench on the throttle up in that range. So I suppose I could live with it as-is and do next spring.

    3) Neutral Indicator Switch -- slow weeping, but needs to be replaced. Will do together with clutch, if that requires opening up.

    4) Front forks -- it was nice having someone else ride my bike. Wirespokes rightly pointed out that my front forks are riding a bit rough, and potholes and such cause a knocking sound in the front. He thinks maybe the springs are preloaded. I am told these forks have the stock progressive springs. I have BMW fork oil, so might not be a pricey fix.

    5) Bullet fairing -- Wirespokes had a great idea. Put the fairing where it's supposed to be. I have the indicator stalks bent up and hopefully, they can be rebent into position so the fairing can move forward about an inch. This will require fabricating new support brackets.

    6) Replace the voltage regulator -- mine is a bit wobbly. We put new rubber since the old rubber grommets were compressed and cracked. Wirespokes suggested using a newer voltage regulator. I just need to find some good options, so I'm open to suggestions.

    One other thing I have to look into was some front end wobbling at about 90 mph on the ride home last night. The sensation was definitely something I would consider to be the front tire/wheel out of balance. I called the shop I paid to install and balance the tire (which was slightly used but has good tread). There are 7 of these newer style non-lead balancing weights that are almost opposite on each side of the rim. The funny thing is that I haven't noticed that until yesterday, and I've gone that fast . . . so it's hard to imagine that the tire or wheel has suddenly gone out of balance. I was going on an incline, which I haven't done on a high speed throttle on, so maybe that somehow factors in? I can't imagine that either.
    #86
  7. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    The clutch on an Airhead does wear the two pressure pieces too. You can SOMETIMES get away with not changing the pressure plate and the compression ring but it's is not recommended to do the clutch job this way. It is the cheap way to do the job and it often leads to the problem of a slipping clutch.

    You can either back off the throttle and learn to live with the slippage or redo the entire clutch. If you do the OEM rebuild it is 4 parts. That is everything. I have only ever heard of a spec for the friction disk. I don't know of any spec for any of the other parts.

    There is a cheaper way to do a clutch job. It involves machining parts and fitting a special disk. All this is handled by only one place I have ever heard of and that is Southland Clutch;

    http://www.southlandclutch.com/

    You ship them everything you have, two plates and disk (I guess you don't have to ship the spring because you will buy a new one of those) They will machine everything to accept the thicker disk they make from your old disk. It's a package deal. Call them for more info.

    I've never done one of these but I do like the idea and I may have to do it sooner than later actually. My clutch also slips a little. But it's not slipping much. (see, I too did a cheap clutch job, But I know I'm cheap)I'm not going to try and tell you this is the correct way to do a BMW clutch.

    If you really think there is oil on the disk then take it out to clean it. We'll tell you how to do all this. It's true this could be the problem but you won't know till you get it all apart. And while at it rub the pressure parts with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper.
    #87
  8. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I'm cheap to a certain extent . . . but one thing I would need to know or decide, is if using correct BMW parts will be best in the long run. My viewpoint is that I will keep this bike. So to that end, I'd rather spend more and have it last longer.

    Like you said, I may just live with the clutch for now. Possibly, take another trip down to see Wirespokes to do the other work, pull the clutch to examine, clean and rub the pressure plates down, to see if that works. That's the cheaper way. If we see issues, I can budget and save to do right. But I can assure you I'm not taking to a dealer to get raped. Inmates here will treat me MUCH better :D

    Quick question on the nylocks for the riser studs. Is it advisable to get the 8mm, as opposed to 5/16"?

    Also, for proper replacement 8amp fuses, are these good? http://www.amazon.com/JT-Products-2425F-Ceramic-Fuses/dp/B002UZZIG4 I found some Littlefield brand GBC fuses at O-Reilly's Auto Supply, but wasn't sure, so I didn't buy.

    Would love a recommendation on the Voltage Regulator as well.
    #88
  9. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    They're the correct fuses.. Head to your local ol' VW mechanic. He'll have 'em.

    There are a few
    alternative regulators.

    • Bosch make one, a RE55 or the RE57. One earth's via the frame connections, the other via a wire to a frame connection.
    • Borg-Warner R-588
    • Neihoff WA 709.
    Autozone have an equivalent of the B-W for less $.
    #89
  10. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Thanks BB, I'll look into that.

    - - -

    The fuse relocator (you see in previous photos) was removed and wires reconnected with fuses inside the headlight bucket. However, the headlight now comes on in both ignition positions. How do I troubleshoot that?

    Another thing I noticed last night, maybe not related . . . is that when I was turning the key back and forth through each position, and did this a few times, I could hear a clicking back behind the battery (or so I thought) and at the third and last time of doing this, heard a puff type of sound. The best way I can describe is it sounded like some fuel was ignited and combustion out the head. I did not have the start button depressed.
    #90
  11. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    Thanks for the kind words mspa! I enjoyed the company of both you and your friend. Having you around reminds me of my early days with these airheads - and it's satisfying filling you in on all the things that took me so long to find out.

    I've got a new adjustable voltage regulator you can have for $22. So that's not a problem. Since yours is working, no rush on that. Pick it up next time you're down this way.

    I agree with Disston - at this point there are two possibilities for the clutch - out of spec pressure rings or lube on the disc. No way to know which till it's apart. Fingers crossed it's lube...

    All the fasteners on these bikes are metric, so 5/16" aint it. :wink: And no split lock washers either!!! Only wave washers!

    You'll need the 8mm nuts ( 13mm wrench) for the bar clamps. But there's no rush - with the nuts sufficiently torqued, they won't be coming loose. They've managed to stick around, what... 34 years? now. I don't think they'll be going anywhere but where you take them.

    I assume the speedometer (and odometer) have been working ok? You asked if it needed parts - no. But the odometer was so sloppy it's a wonder the number wheels weren't flopping all over the place.
    #91
  12. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Just because you can use a 5/16 wrench on an 8 mm nut sometimes has nothing to do with the threads involved. There's a lot more going on than just the external sizes and wrench sizes. The threads are not the same between Metric and SAE. So from now on don't even think of using anything other than Metric on your bike. Even if you are attaching something extra or a fairing or anything like that. When you go to the hardware store and look for nuts and bolts make every effort to only use Metric fasteners.

    There may be something someday that comes up where you are forced to use some SAE fastener on your bike. It's OK. But only if there's no way around it.

    You'll thank me later. (Monk) :lol3
    #92
  13. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Disston, does this mean I have to "learn the metric system" ??? I've never been good at that. Just kidding of course. I think I can manage to stick with metric. But that means I have to get a 22mm bar one day :D

    Wirespokes, what are "wave washers" ?

    Thanks on the voltage regulator. I'll see about that next time I'm down. Speedo is working (still) :evil

    It's funny how as soon as I start thinking about paying attention to one part of the bike, another part asks for attention . . . when I really didn't want to give it attention.

    I ordered parts to fix my center stand. Now my side kickstand spring is not snapping the kickstand back when I lift up. Some people would love that. I miss having it do that. I can see that part of the center stand support is pushing against the other spring.

    The weather has gotten colder in the last day and my start this morning took too long. I'm going to try something a little different tomorrow, that Wirespokes suggested. Mainly don't continue trying to start and choke that bike. The idle seems good, and I'm hoping it's not something else . . .

    The front end is feeling a little instable and I might be getting paranoid at this point, but I'm wondering if there is something "off" with my front tire, or maybe the front forks are contributing? I think I need to do some research and plan on spending some time this Saturday working on this. I need more time, money and it would be nice to have an extra pair of eyes and hands.
    #93
  14. R100LT

    R100LT Chasing 11

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    MSPA ... don't sweat too much on the metric ... I would guess over 80% of the bolts on our bikes are either 6 or 8 mm ... so just keep a 10 mm spanner in one hand & a 13 mm in the other and you are good to go .

    You will find that after a short while you know them by rope when you are working on the bike ... and only glancing at a reference book .
    #94
  15. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Oh, I look forward to that time :) But I know it is necessary to go through the valley of repairs and maintenance to get there.
    #95
  16. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    Well, I'm about to go out and try to fix the centerstand. I'll report back with pics once it's done.

    I also need to go into the headlight bucket and figure out how to get the headlight to NOT turn on in park mode. I think this may be affecting my morning startup, with the headlight drawing more power. I'm thinking at some point, I may upgrade to a Valeo starter for less weight and better starting. I have the wiring diagram in my Clymers, hopefully it won't be too difficult to track down.

    I'm making a list of parts I'd like to get soon. These include:

    Speedo Boot
    Neutral Indicator Switch
    Carb Sync Tool (Northwood Airheads)

    Can you guys suggest best options for gloss black touchup paint for my frame? I see a variety at the auto supply, and curious if you guys have experience with particular brands that matched well.
    #96
  17. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Learning to deal with metric is really no problem. It will become second nature. What seems weird sometimes is American cars because they nowadays have both.

    Later, after you have adjusted to things and gotten to know how your bike runs and what to do to keep it running it will be routine and not a mystery at all like so many things are in the beginning. You should appreciate how the bike was built and it may occur to you that it was originally all metric. Many riders have been through this same thing and if not forewarned about this issue they put some SAE fasteners on their bike but later decided that it was a bad move. You may not have a wrench for that SAE fastener. Or if the nut is missing will you remember that a metric one that looks right really isn't.

    Those of us who have been around this stuff for a long time can sometimes spot a wrong fastener from 5 feet away. with out even touching it. It just doesn't look right.

    It might not be a big issue and certainly you would use what ever is available in an emergency. But trying to stay all metric is really the right move.
    #97
  18. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    I have just enough German in me to be that anal, so it won't be a problem. And I do look forward to knowing this bike better . . . which I know will ONLY come from working on it and pushing through the frustrating times and keep a rolling forward.

    Photos are forthcoming, but I got the centerstand working. There is some bend to the tabs, but the important thing for me is for $29 in hardware, I was able to get the bolts all the way in, with new spacers and wave washer, and lube on the spacers to easy movement . . . and new springs. Much easier than I thought. I'll keep an eye on the suckers to see how they hold.

    I also got replaced the nuts on the stock risers with nylocks (8mm), and tidied up some loose wiring with zip ties.

    The thing I'm stuck on now is wiring inside the headlight bucket so that the ignition's parking mode will NOT turn the light on. I'm going to post some pictures in a new thread I think to get some quick help. But basically, the manual does not have a diagram that shows the numbering system on the board. Maybe the board is not correct for the bike.
    #98
  19. DoktorT

    DoktorT BigBrowedNeandereer

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    Google up "DIN electrical codes". Those numbers are universal on all German vehicles. All the relays and switches will have them if they are DIN spec. Makes electrical diagnostics easy squeezy once you get familiar with the code.

    Any wiring diagram for a German vehicle that does not show those circuit numbers is totally lacking of any basic German design and process understanding.
    #99
  20. mspa

    mspa Been here awhile

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    You'll notice in the pics that the left side frame tab was pretty straight. The right side, a little bent. I have multipurpose grease on the spacer to help with movement. There is enough space in the centerstand hole (where the spacer goes through) to still allow good movement on the stand. The bolts come from BMW with red loctite (or similar) on the threads. The bolts are in there really tight. Thank God the threads weren't messed up.

    I plan to keep an eye on the bolts, and be more careful when I pull the bike back on the stand. The spacers I pulled off the bike are still in good shape, so if I have to redo this at some point, I figure, I may just be out bolts . . .

    Here's what the bolts I removed looked like:

    [​IMG]

    Left side good:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Right side not as good, but it works:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]