1980 Honda XL 80 resurrection

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by lamoson, Mar 23, 2009.

  1. lamoson

    lamoson something catchier

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    739
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    so i picked up a freebie today:lol3

    a 1980 Honda XL 80
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    the thing was beat. laying on its side for who knows how long, hasn't run in years. throttle wont twist and hardly makes a sputter when kicked or popped. so a buddy of mine and I put it on the truck and took it home, hillbilly style.
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    needs to be worked on, and it's a little chilly out so what the heck, i will just move it on inside
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    inside the gas tank-very nice
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    once i got it inside, time to tear it down.
    took of the seat, skid, cover plate, air filter, carb, tank i think that is it.
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    skid plate was just NASTY
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    just a little dirty
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    found this little guy in the air filter
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    pulled the carb off here is the needle, messed about with it and got the throttle turning.
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    the carb
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    made in...
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    the work station
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    parts that came off--minus the gas tank, decided to take that one outside as to not upset the wife. i mean she is rad enough to be cool with this so yeah a little courtesy goes a long way.
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    and me
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    so i think thats as far as im going to go with the strip down, don't think i will change the oil yet. it does have spark, so i am going to clean out the carb and clean it up a bit and give it a whirl.

    will keep ya posted on it.

    jamo
    #1
  2. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    man that slide is tiny!

    I've been surprised by some old beaters that just plain wanted to run. They were waiting for the right person to come along and let 'em.
    #2
  3. Kismet

    Kismet vagrant philosopher

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    I love it.


    It's a sickness.:cry
    #3
  4. G2mk3

    G2mk3 Been here awhile

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    looks fairly similar to the 82' xl185 project i'm beginning :freaky
    #4
  5. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

    Joined:
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    Great project! I really like the white, slightly oversized, plastics on it.
    I would go ahead and replace the oil with the cheapest stuff you can find, you do not know how much crud, gas or water is in there right now. You may also find chunks of metal big enough in the oil that will tell you that the project is not worth it.
    Good luck!
    #5
  6. DoubleBit

    DoubleBit Been here awhile

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    Old honda singles,,, sweet.
    First, check out the honda xl thread in this forum.
    Second, about cheap oil,, Ja, that'll work, but atf has more cleaners in it and is safe to run for a limited time and works great for freeing things up internally.
    Third, (and you're already doing it) have fun with the lill' beast!
    #6
  7. lamoson

    lamoson something catchier

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    so i should swap the oil with transmission fluid for a bit? really? and how long would a limited time be?
    #7
  8. lamoson

    lamoson something catchier

    Joined:
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    ok so i got it started today, but i can't get it to idle. it starts up and then runs for about 30 seconds and quits, even with me trying to keep it alive with the throttle. with the choke in the down position, which opens up the valve, the idle goes CRAZY high, like the bike might blow up. and then if i put it in gear on the high idle. it sputters and dies.

    anybody know what the two screws need to be set at. can't get it right. i did get it up and down the street once though, but barely and at about 10 mph max.

    thanks for any help
    #8
  9. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

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    First, what did you do. Did you clean up the carb internally? Did you clean up the tank? Petcock? Are you running fresh gas? Did you make sure that the slide moves freely when you release the throttle?
    How is the idle screw (assuming there is one, I do not know these carbs) adjusted? What about the mixture screw?
    #9
  10. lamoson

    lamoson something catchier

    Joined:
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    I couldn't crack the carb, because one of the two screws is stripped. I did clean out the tank, there is fresh gas, with carb cleaner additive in it. i believe the slide moves freely. i also sprayed some carb cleaner in the carb.

    as far as the screws go. i have no idea which are what. here is a pic of the carb. there are two screws on the side, and one on the bottom. the big one on the side will back all the way out, but the smaller one stops. the bottom one also backs all the way out, but i think that is just to drain the bowl.

    the big screw goes in the empty hole.
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    here is the big screw.
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    can anybody help me out with settings on these, i have tried a bunch of stuff but still wont hold idle.

    also is there anything that i could do with the slide, or the throttle cable there is also an adjustment that can be made on that

    its the little hex metal piece on the top of the cap
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    thanks for any tips

    jamo
    #10
  11. p3ga

    p3ga Rounding Error

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    For the throttle cable, any adjustment is going to have to be at the housing end, probably just need to adjust the freeplay.

    For the carb, the smaller screw should adjust the air / fuel mix. Start by turning it in all the way, then back it out between 1 - 1 1/2 turns to start.

    The large screw adjusts the idle speed. Screw it in and it raises the slide (that barrel-looking thing that fits into the top of the carb with the needle).

    You want to adjust the smaller screw until the bike just runs, then turn the large screw in to where it settles into a nice even idle.

    As this thing was neglected for so long, you're probably going to chase air leaks between the airbox and the carb & the carb and the head trying to get the beast to run right. Assuming the lead ban hasn't made XR parts unobtainable, you might want to price these rubber parts out and install them with a new air filter before you invest too many hours.

    Hopefully the bolts to the head and intake can be removed, you'll probably need to squirt a good penetrating fluid on them and go on vacation for a few days.

    Hope this helps.
    #11
  12. gvthnks

    gvthnks Been here awhile

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    The large one you have out is the idle speed adjustment screw. Screw it in enough to make it idle.

    The other smaller one is the idle mixture screw. Screw it in all the way and then back it out about 2 turns. That should be a good start.

    These bikes are good for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold where the carb attaches to the intake. IIRC there should be an O-ring there and if it is leaking there, (vacuum) it will idle high and be hard to adjust the carb no matter what you do.

    Additionally if you haven't cleaned the carb out, especially the idle circuit, you'll play the dickens making it run right.

    I can't help but smile though at the thought of resurrecting another one though. Good luck
    #12
  13. lamoson

    lamoson something catchier

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    the carb came right off the head just fine. i have been running it without the airbox connection on. i just didn't want to put it on yet if i don't need it. i am running it just as the pictures show. the open end of the carb is not attatched to anything. is that bad? could that be my problem?
    #13
  14. lamoson

    lamoson something catchier

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    well i guess that answers my question. doh. i feel stupid. i will put the box on and give it a whirl. i had wondered if a vacuum might be needed. thanks
    #14
  15. gvthnks

    gvthnks Been here awhile

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    Running it without the airbox attached won't really cause the adverse effects you're describing. It just isn't wise to run it much that way as there is nothing to filter the air and the motor can injest sand or other debris that will harm the motor.

    The forward end of the carb, the side that hooks to the engine is the intake side and there should be an oring between it and the intake manifold.
    #15
  16. lamoson

    lamoson something catchier

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    ok then i guess thats not my problem. yea the oring is there.
    #16
  17. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

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    Bad news, you're probably just wasting time trying to get it running properly until you can get the carb open and really clean it up, all passages, jets, etc.
    Good news, you know the bike wants to run so there is hope. :clap
    #17
  18. JRP

    JRP Old guy

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    The small screw is an air mixture adjustment for the idle circuit. The screw will come out and has an o-ring on it. You need to get it out and clean out the passage behind it.
    Spray carb cleaner and air pressure should do it. 1 1/2 turns out is a good starting point. When you get it running turn the screw slowly in or out until you get the fastest smoothest idle. The larger screw can then be used to adjust idle speed.
    Good luck!
    #18
  19. DoubleBit

    DoubleBit Been here awhile

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    To answer about using ATF:
    Use it now while the engine is going through all this on/off, short runs and adjustings. I'd say a few hours of running time tops, it's roughly like 5-30wt. Then go to your correct oil. Happily these lill' engines only hold about a quart and a splash, so it isn't expensive to flush 'em with a few changes.
    Sounds like you got plenty of input about your carb.
    Another thing these old singles seem to often need is a valve adjustment.
    I'm guessing about .004", just make sure there is sufficient play for now.
    #19
  20. gvthnks

    gvthnks Been here awhile

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    Even if it's there, it can still leak vacuum. Sometimes the carb body can be warped a little which can let it leak past the oring.

    I agree with the other post however that suggested to really clean the carb out. Once that is done, you can diagnose and chase after other issues.

    Good luck
    #20