!!! 1986 XL600R Adventure Bike Rebuild !!!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crobox, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. joexr

    joexr Banned

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    I got one from my buddys Harley shop. Lockhart also , but it has nipples and theyre opposite side from the mounting holes. Although its for a Harley it doesnt leak oil.:rofl
  2. kubiak

    kubiak Long timer

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    looking great!
  3. Homerb

    Homerb Been here awhile

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    Nice job on the oil cooler bracket.....now I know how I'm going to mount mine.:clap:clap:clap
  4. jonsvba

    jonsvba n00b

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    Hi,
    Have just bought a XL600LMF of fleaBay following inspiration from this thread. (You have, or are about to, cost me a lot of money! http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif) With regards to the oil cooler. Have most guys founds this a required mod or is it just belt and braces? (suspenders is the american term I think!?) Thanks in advance,
    Mike
  5. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    The necessity for an oil cooler really depends on your driving habits. If you live in a rural area and keep the bike moving most of the time or for off road you take decent paced trails then no. If you live in a urban area with a lot of stop and go traffic or ride on slow paced trails then yes. It's a big motor with a big cylinder that creates big heat so if your not moving fast and pushing a lot of air past the motor it get's hot. I city commute mine and you can notice it starting to run hot even without a temp gauge. So it's belts and braces for some but almost a required mod for folks like me.
  6. jonsvba

    jonsvba n00b

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    Ta for that. Are they not prone to damage stuck out there and does vibration not cause the rigid pipes to crack?
  7. BIG ED XT FAN

    BIG ED XT FAN Long timer

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    Nice rebuild. I like the dual-headlight set-up. Do you get the rear shock rebulit? Taking the gold off the bike makes it look faster!!:lol3:lol3
    I work it a Scout dealer putting snow plows on scouts. Sold a ton of them !!! Your Scout looks good with the new motor.
    Thump on!!! :clap:clap:clap
  8. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Being that I haven't run my bike yet, I can't answer those questions... But I did think a bit about the issue of vibration causing the rigid pipes to crack. It's true that the stock setup involves a mixture of hard line and hose for each line, so maybe Honda was thinking about the same question. It's also true, however, that the cooler is mounted to the frame, and the other end of the top line is also screwed into the frame. And I doubt the frame flexes much between these nearby areas. Now as to whether my cooler mount will flex and cause a problem, well that's another question. I will keep an eye on it and put in a piece of hose if it becomes an issue.
  9. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Haven't rebuilt the rear shock. Haven't done much of anything to the suspension, front or rear, actually, except new seals and oil in the forks. I'm waiting to ride it to see how much time and money I want to put into the suspension.

    About the Scout.... Thanks! I love Scouts!
  10. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    OK, I'll try not to be too long-winded about this...

    •Last week when assembling the head I decided I was unhappy with the paint job on the rocker cover.
    •So I sandblasted the cover.
    •Sand stuck to every oily surface on the underside (i.e: rockers, etc) and I knew I had made a mess for myself.
    •I disassembled everything and cleaned everything really well. Painted rocker cover. Re-assembled everything.
    •Upon screwing in banjo bolt for external oil-supply-to-head tube, I felt sandy grit in the threads and realized I had not cleaned out that passage. However the engine was fully assembled and I didn't want to disassemble again.
    •I freaked myself out about sand going straight to the cam surfaces, so I cleaned the passage with Q-tips, and also with brake-clean (with engine on it's "back" so solvent would run out).
    •Lastly I devised the following:

    -Made a custom fitting to join proper size metric bolt (with center drilled out for flow) to a male -6 JIC hydraulic fitting
    -Screwed fitting into head in place of banjo bolt
    -Filled "back" end of hydraulic cylinder with 10W 40 motor oil and connected cylinder to engine fitting with hydraulic hose
    -Manually pushed cylinder closed, thereby forcing ~.5 qt. of oil through passage, through cam.
    -Drained this oil from crankcase drain.

    The idea is that this flow of oil would push any remaining bits of sand out through the cam lobe orifices and down to the bottom of the crankcase, where they would hopefully just get drained out or promptly sucked into the oil filter.

    Here is a picture of the purge setup:

    [​IMG]
  11. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    In the last few days I've done basic other things that needed doing, such as

    •Install all handlebar controls and route control cables
    •Bleed front brake
    •Install drive-chain
    •Install rear brake lever, gear-shifter, kickstarter, footpegs
    •etc. Basically tie up all the loose ends.

    So after purging the oil passage into the head, it was time to add engine oil. The first thing I did was lay the bike on its side and fill the oil filter cavity with oil.

    [​IMG]

    Then I filled the remainder of the 2.5 quarts as Steve (from SF) has suggested; 1.5 quarts into one of the valve adjuster covers and the remaining quart into the frame.
  12. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    So at this point the bike is basically ready for fuel and some kick-starting.

    Here you can see that I have painted the front fairing, and finished it with some colored vinyl for the "numberplate". (By the way I did use a self-etching primer on the aluminum fairing, and it was in fact green. Seems to have worked very well)

    [​IMG]
  13. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    I am going to end tonight's postings with two questions for all you smart dudes...

    Question #1:

    How many discs are in this Supertrapp? (It looks like 4 to me, although each "disc" seems to be made of 2 plates...??)
    And how many do you guys guess that I SHOULD have? (101mm "high compression" Wiseco cylinder, stock cam, stock jetting)

    [​IMG]
  14. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    And question #2... (possibly a bummer situation.....)

    This afternoon after putting in the oil, I turned everything on, grounded my spark plug, and pushed the kickstarter a few times watching for that FAT BLUE spark everyone talks about....

    Well, there was a spark. But I could barely see it.

    I've already got a brand new Ricky Stator in there.
    My understanding of vehicle electrical systems is rudimentary. Could someone tell me (or point me to) a hit list of components I should be looking at and testing and maybe replacing?

    Thanks,
    -Christian
  15. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    The family went to bed so I went to the shop with some gasoline I bought earlier today.

    Being that it is night time now, I left the lights off in the shop and did the spark test again, and in pitch blackness the spark looked pretty decent.

    I mounted the fuel tank, put in some gas, put on a fuel line, opened the petcock, turned on the key and RUN switch, kicked the bike, and.....




    Nothing.

    Except a bunch of kicking. And whacking my shin once. Oh, and then fuel started pouring out of the little nipple on the bottom of the float of the secondary carb. I gotta look that up in the manual, but I'm thinking that it's an overflow and that my float valve is stuck. Fun.

    Then I opened up the airbox and squirted in some starting fluid and I did get the engine to cough once. Actually on two separate kicks, one cough each. I guess that means I have sufficient spark, right?

    Seems like I need to focus on the fuel end of things.

    Sleep time now.
  16. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    corrected fuel leak problem (improperly adjusted float)

    Still nothing from kicking.
  17. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Spark is weak, even though I have a fresh Ricky Stator in there.

    Decided to go ahead and throw a new coil and CDI unit in there, ordered from regulatorrectifier.com. That stuff should theoretically be here Friday. Will update.

    Any suggestions about the number of discs in the Supertrapp? (The question I asked a few posts ago)
  18. Carter Pewterschmidt

    Carter Pewterschmidt Long timer

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    I've been behind on your thread. Bike is looking good. When I first read that you weren't happy with the rocker paint I thought you might have thrown me a gold bone so to speak. I felt the same way when I finished painting mine but I chose to let sleeping dogs lie. I've since then blown the headgasket on it so I'll have my chance again. Neat work on the oil flush device though.

    For starting other than spark make sure your fuel mixture isn't too rich. If it is you typically get a lot of kickback even without opening the throttle or using the choke.

    On the supertrapp with that piston I'd run as many disks as I could, but what you have in there are different. They seem to be spaced out much further apart than standard supertrapp disks. Aftermarket companies have made many different supertrapp hop up parts and different versions of that muffler over the years so maybe they're not original. The ones in my pipe are genuine originals i ordered and you can see they're stacked together much closer than yours.

    [​IMG]

    I'd say run what you got because they look like they breath a bit better than regular disks. With that piston you might get some pinging and if so I'd jet it up a bit then add some disks. Turn that fuel screw out if you haven't yet too. Might be the reason for your hard starting as well.
  19. dirtyron

    dirtyron never grew up

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    get a couple of long winded friends. 5th gear. PUSH.
  20. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Regarding your 'trapp, it looks like someone put some washers in there to space the discs farther apart--probably just too cheap to buy more discs. :D
    I'd pull out the washers and start out with about 12 discs.