Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by LandsVW, Oct 20, 2012.
You will need a stop for the steering lock at the front top of the head tube.
sheeeooot. I guess I don't need steering lock? hmm...
It shouldn't be to hard to fab up the stop and get it welded on. Sure cuts down on someone just rolling the bike away.
I transferred headlight switch to the xr handlebar. Mimicking the xl - the compression release lever is up the bar, near the reinforcement. Originally I would pull the compression lever to the bar and compression would be released. However, now it is stopped half way or so through its swing by the light switch and is not releasing compression. This is how it was on the xl too and looked factory. So, do i adjust the cable so that compression is released at that point, or does that cause other problems, such as the internal lever riding too much on the valve lifter?
Go ahead and adjust the cable. To make sure that the cable isn't to tight, lightly pull the lever. You should have a bit of travel before you feel the valve and lever contact. You only need a slight amount of valve movement to release the compression.
That seemed to work. I have it so just before bottoming out it opens the valve. Thanks.
Also, installed the XL header. What I have read on "call all xr" thread its thicker, might be stainless, though I doubt this by looking at it, and it has the guard still on it, which is cool. I am working on fitting the rear fender, with a little creative flow going on... Having fun, thats for sure! Still pondering the upper mounts for the speedo/headlight, but have some ideas.
I've put the front wheel and speedometer cable from the XL on to the XR, no probs. Yeah, the rim is silver... boo. but didn't want to risk damaging the tire/tube changing it out right now, plus the bearings seem good vs. the gold rim. Rear rim - since the XL wheel doesn't fit the XR I've got the tires off both rims. Need a 5.10X17 inner tube. BOTH were 18's, folded, and had holes in them - not by me. Also a set of rear wheel bearings. Ebay says $18.50 for inner tube, and about 12$ for bearings. Does that sound about like the going rate? Still working on a bracket for the headlight/speedo assembly, but have come up with a few good ideas not involving buying a XL650 tree clamp. I guess I'll skip the steering lock for now. That's it for now! My hands sure are tired from wrestling with those two tirea in 50 degree weather...
What's the point of having a single sided bearing seal (which both bearings have) vs. a double sided seal? the bearings are a 6203RS (Well, that's cross referenced from a NSK 6203DU) and a 6204RS (cross referenced from a NTN 6204LU) . However, I can get a 6203 2RS and a 6204 2RS which would then be sealed on both sides. Seems that having the one side sealed would cause the ability of water/grit to go through the bearing, and once in the hub go directly into the other sides bearing which wouldn't be protected at all... Just wondering if there is another reason I'm overlooking?
a lot of oem applications use one sided shileds...
beleive it or not...I read up on it and added to the fact that they might be cheaper for oem bikes to buy, bearinfs with NO SHIELDS will have less ROLLING resistance...
also some oem manufacturers use these one sides bearings ASSUMING people will actually maintain their bearings more...
on wheels for example there is no need to prevent water or grit or dirt from entering from the insides of the hub1 think about it...you only need or wantr to protect from the outside
of UTMOST importance more than the shields on the actual berings is the OEM seals on the hub itself
honda has AWESOME oem seals....2, triple lipped seals and are very good
every time I replace seals if I can go for it I use oem...there is a reason they are more expensice not to mention better rubber quality...
just my little 2cents
happy 2013 btw
Double sealed bearings. Nuf said...
Ha Ha! that was my thought! I really do think the inner seals would protect the OTHER bearing from cross contamination. In essence 3 seals coming in from the opposite side... The sprocket side was the worst in my case, and might actually be the most vulnerable to having water/sludge go through it and its seal. Once the sludge gets past the outer seal, it's free to travel to the back of the opposite bearing with nothing to protect it...
Thanks too, ELS for the input. I think I"ll buy the double seal bearings though, install, and no more worries.
Oh, finished reading the XR600 thread last night. again, have learned a lot and had a good bunch of chuckles over the trials of (mostly and I feel like) our good friend from El Salvador!
Here's one more crazed question: What are the chances of me unspoking both the gold and silver rim, and respoking the silver rim to the XR hub without ruining anything ;P ? Will it work with the spokes I already have?
wow! that was a good read. lots of good info. a few months ago i inhereted a 1986 XR600R. didnt have as much isues with my bike. i think it sat for 10 years in a garage. i whent through the carbs and did other typical engine preps for one that has sat.started it up and it ran great. it does have that engine wine noise. glade to hear thats normal.i will try and post pics and more info another time.
Get some oven cleaner and try it on the gold rim. It should remove the anodizing.
Trying to disassemble a 1986 wheel? Good luck on that. The spoke nipples are most likely seized.
When I renew the bearings in wheels I remove the dual seals and pack the bearing with a quality water proof grease. With the outer seal on the hub I fill the void between the seal and bearing with grease also. I refill this when ever the wheel is off. This really keeps moisture or contaminants from getting to the bearing.
I'll try the oven cleaner. I won't try to disassemble - good point. I will pack the new bearings w/ a quality (probably trailer wheel) type grease. I have both of the bearings ordered as well as a Kenda 5.10-17 tube off ebay. btw, both my newer tires (I'd say very close to new, although have sat around a few years) are DOT approved Kenda as well. The old ones are very worn out Cheng Shin.
Thanks for the . The 450+ page XR And XL 600 threads is where I am learning tons about this bike. I have been messing with bikes since 8th grade (am 48) and am pretty competent. Never had one of these though, or this big of a single cylinder engine, so am bowing to the experts and enjoying the ride (no pun intended). I have to build this to be reliable and street legal so I can keep up with my brother in law on his brand new KTM! The trails of southern Oregon are calling! His electric start, fuel injected 10k bike is a pretty high bar to clear though, with a 28 year old 100$ basket case frankenbike, lol. I'll bring a tow rope tho... for one of us...
you too... Happy NOT the end of the world!
Well, have my parts. Now, a little time and should have the rear tire and wheel back together. Meanwhile, have gotten further on the bracket fabrication for gauges and key.
Well, installed bearings in the rear wheel today! also, sold some XL600 parts to a 'new' friend and hopefully riding buddy, and recouped some of the loss.
So, I have a line on another basket case near me: 1984 XR500 (what I was told). Where does that bike fit in to the lineup of my 86 XR600, and the parts left from my XL600? Which one is it most similar to? What big ticket items would interchange and/or is it worth getting?
...I have the seat being redone by a local guy, sorry Z_S. He's only 1 mile from my new house so I decided to support local business - not to mention, if it's junk he can do it over and I'm not paying for shipping!
I'll have pictures as soon as practical.
Almost have the bracketry figured out for the speedometer and key switch. a lot of trial and error, but I think It will work.
If I'm going to use (which I am) a dry cell battery setup, Am I looking for a combination of 12 volts? how many cells is that? Anyone have a recommendation? Like a radio controlled toy battery pack or something?
Rechargables run 1.2V per cell, so you will need 10,
Akalines run 1.5V percell so you only need 8
Lipo's run in config of 3.7V per cell, so 3S (3 in series) is 11.1V, 4S would be 14.8V and you would need a regulator of some sort.
New type LiFe's run 3.3V so a 4S pack would be 13.2, probably spot on for what you want.
Disclaimer, I have no experience with batteries on a XR600, just an RC junkie.
Nice! and thanks.