1993 Yamaha GTS1000

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by SalMaglie, May 29, 2008.

  1. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    A couple of manufacturers made raised bars or a new top triple clamp that would take conventional one-piece tubular bars. None currently being manufactured so you'll just need to keep your eyes open.
    #41
  2. kirb

    kirb should be out riding

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    I did stop by 'all sports' or whatever it's called in Decatur, AL when I was there last month. They had a GTS1000 for sale with about 11k miles for something like $3600 price on it. Looked like some right side tip-over damage on the pipe and maybe lower faring. Seemed to be in OK shape overall. I have photos on my other computer if anyone is interested.

    VERY nice example at Barber's museum as well (on display when I was there).
    #42
  3. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    I was just in Decatur a couple of weeks ago and had no idea there was a GTS there. However, I visited Barber last week and had a good look at the GTS on display. A truly pristine example with zero miles.
    [​IMG]
    #43
  4. kirb

    kirb should be out riding

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    I wonder if that was the example that showed up on ebay a few months back...some dealer kept one in crate until now and sold it. Zero miles.
    #44
  5. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    I think Barber has had one for a while so they probably bought it back when it was a current model.
    #45
  6. wannaklr

    wannaklr Long timer

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    Wish I still had my 94. It was stolen in NC. When I got it back it had been dumped out of a moving truck or trailer. Guess the fuckwads couldn't get it started.
    #46
  7. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    #47
  8. wannaklr

    wannaklr Long timer

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    #48
  9. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Is that
    "damn!! $3700 bucks ...that's high", or
    "damn!! $3700 bucks ...that's low"?

    Seems about right to me. Nice, rideable, classic bike with a very unique cachet. This one looks to be in good condition (as most of them are) and is in the same price range that most seem to sell for. If I didn't already have one, I'd probably buy it. Not that I wouldn't try to haggle the price down but I'd be willing to go to $3700
    #49
  10. kirb

    kirb should be out riding

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    $3700 might be the price I was quoted when I asked, but I thought it was $3600. They have had it for at least 5-6 months, so I'm willing to bet you could get that price closer to $3k as you move on in the riding season.

    Look closely. The leading edge of the muffler is damaged from a tip-over. I think the faring (or front swingarm) has some scratches too. I've got a couple of better pics if anyone is interested.
    #50
  11. wannaklr

    wannaklr Long timer

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    That was a "damn that's low" exclamation. There was one in the flea market for a little more, but it had the krauser bags. I'm saving for the next bike and would love to find a GTS. I'd haggle due to the tip over damage, but not too much.
    #51
  12. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Good luck! I'd say $3400-ish and a fly-and-ride adventure would be an exceedingly gratifying purchase. I was a little leery of taking mine far from home when I first got her but am rapidly building confidence. She's currently off the road awaiting the arrival of some tiny seals so I can put the (hopefully now fully functioning) ABS back in. Also have an HID kit, GPS and radar-detector wiring and heated grips waiting to be fitted.
    #52
  13. RedRocket

    RedRocket Yeah! I want Cheesy Poofs

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    That sounds about right for an ASKING price. I think about $ 3000 will be the selling price.
    #53
  14. wildbill

    wildbill Adventurer

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    Some guy in England rebuilds the abs pumps. Might want to let him do it.
    #54
  15. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    I know there was someone doing it a number of years ago. I heard some bad things however (rebuilt pumps with old/dirty O-rings or missing parts.)

    Anyhow, I had already started by the time I found this out. Finally managed to get the pumps apart with repeated rounds in ultrasonic cleaner with weak vinegar solution, freeze/thaw, and finally back to penetrating oil (which I had tried early on). That was last weekend. Had the ABS unit mostly back together when I managed to nip one of the small seals (couldn't have been an easy to obtain O-ring, oh no!). Currently awaiting delivery of some replacements.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #55
  16. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    A bag of X-rings was waiting for me when I got in on Friday. Saturday morning, I cleaned the pump components (again), installed two new X-rings and reassembled. Getting the pump pistons all the way in without nipping the seals again was really awkward. It seems as if the chamfer in the pump body is not quite enough. Perhaps some special lube is required. It looks as if a nearly microscopic whisker of rubber was left behind when each one finally slid into place. Fingers crossed this will not mean they are going to leak and I won't have to do this all again any time soon.

    Not knowing if everything was going to work, I was pretty nervous reinstalling the pump in the bike. I filled it as much as possible with clean brake fluid, using a syringe, before attaching the brake hoses. Bleeding the old fashioned way, coordinating brake lever motion with twists of a small wrench back and forth on the bleed nipple, quickly achieved soft but functioning brakes at which point I ran the ABS cycle test. It was great to successfully feel the brakes pump back up. :clap:clap

    A further couple of minutes of brake bleeding got more bubbles out of both circuits (and in the case of the rear circuit, some nasty milky looking brake fluid - I wonder where that was hiding?) It's all flushed through clean now and I've cycled the ABS a couple of dozen times. I will run the ABS cycle test and flush things though again a couple more times over the next week or so.

    I have a long gravel drive and have utilized it to test the ABS operation. Both ends work although the front still slides enough to make me not want to do it again. :eek1

    If either of the new seals are leaking, they will leak into the area around the pump motor, from where it might take a while before any signs of fluid make themselves known. I will watch closely and keep an eye on the fluid levels.
    #56
  17. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    No leaks so far. Looks like it's fixed properly. Will try to make a habit of regular ABS cycle tests and will be flushing brake system at least annually. Brake fluid is cheap!
    #57
  18. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    I just discovered that the left handlebar switch unit from a Yamaha FZ600R is exactly the same as that for the GTS.

    On a hunch that I could at least modify the switchgear, I picked up a UK-spec used part from the 600 for about £10 (US$16). I was pleasantly surprised to find that the cable length and plugs are identical.
    [​IMG]

    Everything worked when I just plugged it in but the flash switch would only work when the lights are on. This did not seem right and investigation showed one wiring difference on the bike that needed to be accounted for. The modification required is extremely simple and is done to the switch wiring, NOT the bike's wiring so everything remains original and unadulterated.

    On European models (and presumably elsewhere except US) power to the light switch comes via the fuse box on a red and yellow wire. This is not present on the US models. Instead a blue and black wire provides power on the pin that would be used to send power to the marker lights in other markets. I'm guessing this is due to Yamaha taking an easy way to make the marker and tail lights come on with the ignition.

    I simply swapped the pin with red/yellow wire in the "new" switch into the slot where the blue/black wire connects.
    [​IMG]
    [Ignore the green snot on the pins - The used switch I had bought was from a bike that obviously got used year-round with salt on the roads in winter. A short dip in vinegar got things clean enough to make good contact. I also smothered everything in dielectric grease]

    The bike now has the capability to turn the lights off and a hi-beam flash switch. There is also an extra blue wire coming from the "new" switch that is hot when the on/off switch is in the marker light position. I used that wire to power an HID conversion.
    [​IMG]

    A future simple modification internal to the light switch could allow me to use the "On" position to switch accessory driving lamps.


    [Edit - Addendum] - Found and fixed a screw up related to this modification.

    When I stalled the bike in gear and had to put it into neutral to get it started, I initially thought I must have left the above connector loose. However, I then discovered that the clutch interlock logic was reversed - i.e. I could start the bike in gear ONLY if the clutch was NOT squeezed.

    That was a real headscratcher until I looked closer at the plugs on the new left-hand switch.

    The plug that came with the FZ600R switch is at the top and the original GTS plug is at the bottom:
    [​IMG]
    Obviously the switch on the clutch has normally open AND normally closed contacts and three pins to match - You just can't see them when the clutch is attached to the handlbar. The new plug was connecting to the wrong pins. Should have looked closer before I plugged everything in I suppose. The "fix" was very easy. I simply removed the pins from the plug and swapped in the plug from the original switch. Screw up unscrewed!
    #58
  19. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Here's the rat's nest of wiring that came with an eBay dual 55W HID Bixenon kit (the other light is going into another bike). Even ignoring the second headlamp, this is a lot of unnecessary stuff.
    [​IMG]

    The way I'm wiring it, I cut (& soldered) things down just to this:
    [​IMG]
    (could have gone even shorter with the wires but I wanted to have plenty of room if I ever need to move the ballast and igniter for any reason)

    • The top cable will trigger the HID capsule to move to the "high" position when hi-beam is selected.
    • The red wire will connect to a power supply - in this case the blue wire I left out of the connector from the new switch.
    • Black will attach to a suitable ground (earth) point.

    Job done!
    [​IMG]
    #59
  20. tdmrider

    tdmrider n00b

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    I was wondering if anyone new of availability of taller handlebars. I have a 93 GTS 1000 with 10,000 mi. Any help would be great.
    #60