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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by SalMaglie, May 29, 2008.
So put up or shut up!!
Where oh where is that 94?
Most of your photo links are broken
Nice looking bike! Why wouldn't you fit the refurb ABS unit?
Windscreen deflector looks good. How well does it work?
Anyone else experiencing broken links? Working OK for me. Being hosted by Google Photos and it seems to have taken a different look now than when I posted earlier.
As for the ABS unit. I have multiple projects going so it arrived recently and on the shelf. Simply not enough time.
The deflector works great for reducing buffeting. The shorter sport windscreen is supposed to help as well to deflect wind to your torso rather than your helmet.
Photos are now working.
I think you might expect to get closer to your asking price if the ABS is confirmed as working.
What brand is the windscreen deflector?
After more than a year, I continue to be impressed by this bike. The front brake, however, while always smooth and powerful, always had too much "give". This was true both before and after I rebuilt the ABS and despite following the recommended procedure to rotate the caliper down around the disk while bleeding.
I flushed the brakes today (annual maintenance) and finally banished the bubble. Had to remove the caliper completely and hold it at just the right angle to get the bleed nipple uppermost (relative to the sides as well as the ends - if that makes sense.) I also ran the ABS cycle test before and part-way through each flush, to try and reduce the chance of having a pocket of stale fluid trapped somewhere. As the caliper was off the disk, I put a couple of tire irons between the brake pads.
[Note nasty brake fluid color in the container on the floor was from an old 125 I am restoring, not the GTS this time, thankfully]
Brakes are now nice and tight, as they should have been all along.
Good to know! I now know what my next job is.... I just got done dealing with "the serge" issue aka tps. Bike was starting to drive me nuts, nasty hesitation 2.5 - 4k rpm.... Now smooth again.
I have seen several posts about various adjustments to try and reduce surge and the rather abrupt off-idle behavior. It seems to me that a TPS adjustment might help - What did you do and what were the effects?
1. Set pots on Ecu to 1 O'clock there is a sticker covering the pots need to remove to access. This adjust injection duration. Got better results when adjusted to 11 O'clock which technically leans out air fuel. Surge is caused by mix richening in wrong throttle posistioning.
2. Tried to adjust the tps to specified voltage (gts owners forum ) .58 volts. Started at .66 volts tips had never been touched still had factory marks. Using fluke meter on 2nd and 3rd wire (1st wire is blue for 5 volts) while bike was cold NO LOVE. Needed to warm the bike and adjusted by ear 1st to get it close even very minor movement will change voltage several tenths. Then applied meter to .58 volts.
3. Needed to bump up idle to stock it dropped below 1000 rpm so brought back to ~1050rpm.
Ride this morning was wonderful! Smooth ....
If you are having issues below 2k rpm I would look at vaccume lines 1st, tps is notorious for 3-4k rpms.
Btw in case you don't know where the tips is located.... Under lower right side faring.
I'm tackling this issue this very weekend. Brakes stop the bike but there's a lot of slop in the brake lever until the bike begins slowing down. Also, you got any tips on adjusting the rear shock? I can't get the damn sleeve thingie to rotate. I'm about to tear down the whole rear just to get to the shock.
Just read on GTS owners a solution for the front brake that I am considering. Attach the front brake directly to the front caliper bypassing the ABS but leaving it attached for the rear only.
Sorry no help with rear shock only adjusted once and no problem.
Why would you do that if there are other ways of getting that last bubble out? - As I just found out.
I had wondered about using one of these (available from Wemoto and several eBay suppliers):
which would allow bleeding the caliper without detaching it from the suspension arm and so might also have the desired result (couldn't hurt anyway).
It's not for getting the air out of the line, I believe the primary reason would to be take the fickle ABS out of the equation and maintain easier maintenance of the over all system. I like the idea of keeping ABS in the rear but would be happy to give it up for front to maintain firm breaking. Honestly not happy with the ABS and would be fine with removal if the ECU would allow it?
As long as the ABS actually works (i.e. the pump is not corroded/siezed up) I would not call the ABS fickle. If it DOES work, then it probably works for both brakes so I don't quite understand why you would want it for the rear brake only.
And that is OK... People are strange don't necessarily have reasons.
Just to address the comments about the front disc rotor being no longer available for the GTS. This is not true. I recently got one through CMSNL.com and it was a lot less than $800 also, even with shipping to Australia. They were out of stock for something like a year waiting for a new production batch, but they are now in stock again at 268 euros.
Holy Smokes! All I need now is to decide if I can live with my GTS.
Talk about a conversation piece.....that rotor's got "Plan 9 from Outer Space" all over it. You oughta put the old one on display! :huh
about as rare as people who know about the movie Plan 9 from outer Space as well
That'll need a sturdy string if you float it in the air.
I spent the day yesterday taking and learning how to teach the MSF Advanced Rider Course (ARC). The GTS did just fine, having more ground clearance than I could use and giving an especially good account of herself in braking exercises.
It was not much above freezing in the morning (the old back tire was a bit scary at high lean angles until it got warmed up) but it was fabulously warm by the afternoon.