1997 R1100GS Driveline diagnose and repair

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by GmanVic, Aug 9, 2012.

  1. Poway

    Poway SHED (Shit Head)

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    Nice Thread. Please note drive orientation of yokes on shaft during reinstall. I didn't remember how it lined up and guessed. I guessed wrong. It had a bad vibration. I had to disassemble and redo. To recover from this goof, use a flashlight and look up the swingarm, to figure out how it lines up. Save a lot of time by noting how that shaft and yokes line up, when you pull the final drive off.

    Bike actually is smoother now than before. I recommend looking down the swingarm and knowing for sure how the yokes are positioned.
    Make a mark and then verify the yoke alignment, visually with a flashlight.
    #41
  2. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    I have R & Rd my pivots several times and applied the locknut torque without the pivot pin moving. Use the Loctite sparingly. Don't wait for a day to torque...do it within a minute or two. It will work just fine.
    #42
  3. MIXR

    MIXR Been here awhile

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    The 7 nm torque seems to be enough to hold the pivot bolt in place when the lock nut is done up. I mark it with a paint-pen just in case, but they never seem to move.
    #43
  4. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Yes, that worked, thanks. I marked the pin and yes she stayed put.
    #44
  5. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Hey y'all!
    Apparently this bike IS idiot-proof! Back together and riding and all feels GREAT!

    [​IMG]
    #45
  6. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Haha. Take that back. Ironically, now it won't start. Got all the lights and ignition, I hit the key and the starter clicks, then no lights or anything anywhere - completely dead. Then I leave it for 5 minutes and it will click again.
    Starting to take things apart...
    The battery has good charge
    Fuses are all okay
    Vague clicking under the seat
    Time to pull the tank and start tracing wires I guess!
    #46
  7. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    I should add, it was running perfectly for a day - maybe 20km of riding. So my assembly was fundamentally correct; I guess I must have pinched a Wire.

    Any ideas of "what to check first, and how", are most welcome oh wise and wonderful inmates. :-)
    #47
  8. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Yes, correct...the mating connector wasn't there becuase I hadn't reainstalled the muffler at that point. Mystery solved! :chace
    #48
  9. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Okay. All is working as expected. I am up and running and ecstatic! (The last "to do" was, apparently, tighten the frickin ground wire to the battery! :-)

    Here are the parts that are left over. ;-) I know there shouldn't be left overs...but I have 2 rubber grommets, 2 washers, and a wire-retaining clip ... and I'm really not sweating it. :-) (I think the grommets are for fuel crossover lines and the washers for the battery box. Will check soon enough.)

    [​IMG]

    I think I can now retire this thread...though I may edit and add on the rare occasions that I don't have my caboose cased in Corbin, reveling in the feel of a new clutch, a solid trans, well lubed splines, lots more tools and knowledge, and the beloved Big Black Beautiful Beemer (nickname BB) back on the road. :-))

    Thanks again for all your advice and support!!

    Gerry Brimacombe
    Victoria, BC
    October 7, 2012
    #49
  10. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Hey Y'all! The bike is running quite well now (well enough that I am going to buy a techlusion box to try to eliminate surge, but that's another thread!)

    I have ordered a gear position indicator switch and used swing arm to remedy some of the strong-arm wrenching I did rushing too much over the summer. I have been invited to ride to Alaska so want to make sure the old girl is truly solid...And jeepers that looks that really easy job compared to the transmission/clutch stuff.

    HOWEVER...I do have one nasty little issue...
    Seems the transmission is leaking when I am doing my low speed handling practice, which is riding the clutch and leaning over a lot at low speed. It seems to not leak, or at least not noticeably, during normal riding. Any suggestions of where it may be leaking? The oil is visible on the front part of the engine under the transmission. It quite visible since I used that bright red Shockproof Heavy.
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p> </o:p>
    #50
  11. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Talking to a friend, he suggested a plugged transmission breather/vent could cause that leak... Any thoughts or suggestions? Frankly, I would be quite happy to NOT take out the trans again! :-)
    #51
  12. rutard

    rutard Magnanimous Madcap

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    Hey Gman...I'm no expert, but I'll chime in to give you a bump.

    If the leak is where the transmission and the engine meet, then it's coming from one of the two.

    I'm gonna make an unscientific assumption that it's not coming from the engine side.

    If you're sure it's Trans Fluid, then there aren't many places for leaks on the front side of the the transmission housing.

    It could be coming from a crack in the casting, or a loose bolt, but most likely this is the culprit:
    [​IMG]
    Most of the leaks I have read about occur at the Input Shaft Seal. I'm not an expert on these trannys, but there's no vent on the front housing to cause the leak.

    An engine-side leak could be coming from the seam of the case halves, but I don't see many opportunities for hidden leaks.
    [​IMG]

    Hopefully, I'm wrong.
    #52
  13. rutard

    rutard Magnanimous Madcap

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    I doubt their absence will make your bike explode, but you should probably try to re-install. The clip is for a wire on either the engine or transmission (Gear Pos., Oil Temp, Oxyg., SS switch, etc). The washers could be hard to locate. I think the rubber circle is the rear brake holder:
    [​IMG]

    It could also attach to the airbox to hold the fuel rails. Hard to tell w/o more pics...

    That's what they all say...:evil
    #53
  14. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    rutard, you are the best! Thank you. I think you are right about the input shaft seal -- I wasn't able to change that when I did the job and felt it "will be fine". Haha! I don't think it is the engine - I am using Shockproof Heavy Gear Oil, which is bright red, and that appears to be what's leaking.

    And thanks for the comments on the "spare parts". Will look again.

    How is your water logged bike doing? :puke1
    #54
  15. vintagerider

    vintagerider Long timer

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    Great thread! You should not need tecillusion or any other devices on the 1100GS Motronic 2.2. Very little on the 1150 tuning applies to 1100 non-S. Have you replaced the intake manifolds? There is a built in seal that goes bad. If the fuel,air , vacuum are good the 1100 runs great. I would buy an oem CO pot aka "idle regulating valve" as used on the non-cat version 1100 before spending money on f.i. modifier. The rubber seal in the TB that surrounds the f.i. is probably leaking. Would go through the entire fuel prep and delivery system. TBs might need rebuild.

    Kinda surprised on your choice of gear lube. M97 is spec'd for GL5 and in 90wt. Controversial for some of course.
    #55
  16. rutard

    rutard Magnanimous Madcap

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    Any news to report, or did the tryptophan do you in?
    #56
  17. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Hey rutard! Apparently turkey has slowed me right down! I have been riding the bike and enjoying it, other than the leak. Starting to plan a trip to Alaska so the seal needs to be replaced. I have set aside a long weekend later this month to do the work...try to do it all in a few days rather than spread over a few months and that should be less painful in every way. I was just on here looking for the recommendation of the tool I need to get to torque the pivot bolts properly.

    I have also purchased a techlusion box, new brake linings and such...so should be a fun weekend if I can get my buddies to help out again.

    And...What's the status of your waterlogged R1150?
    #57
  18. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Thanks vintagerider. I got a deal on the techlusion so I did buy one. I have not replaced any intake parts, but I checked the TBs and vicinity for leaks using both propane and WD40 but didn't seem to be any... I will take another look with special attention to the seal arounf the fuel injector. The "tecillusion" is still unopened so could return it, I'm sure.

    What is GL5? And are you syaing straight 90 weight, not 80w90? I chose Redline Shockproof because I read that it might spooth up the shifting a bit...it hasn't really.
    #58
  19. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    Well, I'm back in there (and here). Hello all!

    I took my new-to-me m97 transmission out again yesterday to replace the front seal that (apparently) I should have done before installation. D'oh! Anyway the job is easier second time, and I also use Rutard's checklists to help.

    While I am in there I am replacing the gear indicator switch and doing a better job of torquing the pivot bolts with the 1 3/16" crowfoot wrench I have now purchased...though it doesn't look like the crowfoot will fit between the foot peg mount points on the left front mount.)

    However, it appears the front (input shaft) transmission seal on the m97 can only be changed by opening the transmission up. True?
    #59
  20. GmanVic

    GmanVic Been here awhile

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    #60