15-11-2009 ..can't write much, hands are too cold! Got a good and early start and walked past the Registan and headed for the market, bought Lisa a Pashmina scarf for $8 before heading into the market itself. Walked around market bought some pomegranates and then bought two more silk scarves from a shop on the posh street. Very out of keeping with the rest of Samarkand. Headed back to room so cold, downloaded photos and then ate with the Germans at 5:30pm and then headed to room as so cold. Went back out to photograph the Guri Amir mausoleum wow. ******************* We're both down this evening were both feeling low and so very tired. Been back on the road 5-months and were questioning if its what we want to do? 16-11-2009 The warmth wed enjoyed over breakfast with Daniel and his family in the main room of the B&B, was now draining from our bodies in the sub zero temperatures of the morning. Wed ridden the short 3 km east out of town fuelled up the bike and handed over a large sum of cash 93,000 som. I was on fumes and had squeezed into the big GS 39.8 liters. Past the Registan for one last time we turned right at the lights and dropped straight onto the M37 which would take us all the way to Bukhara. Good tar mix with, broken patchwork concrete slabs made for a relatively easy ride, although our hands were lumps of ice after the first 10 minutes. Note of the day: For the first time in Uzbekistan we past a police check point and didnt get waived over, frustrating as it is I was actually a bit sad to have broken our 100% pull over ration. Even the second check point just waived us through until on the outskirts of Bukhara we were finally directed to halt and produce our documents. Bukhara is a labyrinth of streets and alley ways so pulled up at the side of the road we waived down a taxi gave him the details of Sasha & son B&B and followed him through the backstreet of what resembled a medina in Morocco. Dirt/clay street, pot holes and open drains thrown in for good measure. With 2,000 som paid we headed inside and were instantly transported to some exotic and luxurious place. Daniel had said it was nice but we hadnt expected it to be this plush and well appointed. Inside room number 3 we stowed our bags in the corner and just stared in disbelief at the intricate decorations hand painted onto every surface. The tall wooden beams of the rood struts painted a muted moss green and the decorated in gold paint. Delicate silk covers each window on the inside whilst heavy ancient looking blinds cover them from the outside. Flowers and vases all hand painted cover every surface of the inside of the room and its warm. Two large modern radiators heat the space and we felt the room embrace us as soon as we entered. Tonight is the first time in a while well sleep naked. Itll be great to get out of the thermal gear. Dinner was courtesy of a small grill just across the road. Two great fresh salads, two shashlyk (one lamb and one beef) and two beers set us back $5 each. To be warm feels sooooo gooood!!! 17 to 18-11-2009 Spent the last few days playing tourist, catching up on sleep and sorting out the thousands of photos we've taken.