2 stroke fun for 200 bucks

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by hardwaregrrl, Feb 16, 2011.

  1. Duck_Pilot

    Duck_Pilot Retired Roadracer

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    The VAST majority of 2-T seizures are from going lean somehow, not from lack of lubrication. I agree that you should not run premix - except for a short time at startup to make sure the oil pump is working. There should have been a cable split from the throttle, hooked-up to that arm on yer oil pump. That'll increase oil flow with demand from yer 'go-faster' genes. :wink: As has already been posted, check all of the oil system carefully, and replace whatever looks suspect.

    Don't be afraid to split the cases, and replace the crank seals. The only odd tool you may need is a puller for the flywheel/ignition rotor. Invest the time now, and a few more bucks for the seals - no sense in doing otherwise. You'll thank yourself 20K miles later.

    The damper rod in the forks may need to be held in place from the top for removal. But first, look to see if there's a snap-ring on top of the fork seal. If there's one on top there, just remove it along with the fork caps and springs, then treat the upper tubes like slide-hammers and drive the old seals out that way. :D With that type of fork, the damper rod just stays in place at the bottom, 'cause the circlip and seal are the top-stop. If there's no circlip over the seal, then you'll need to remove that bolt into the damper rod from the bottom.

    Good luck. Read the manual carefully and take your time doing the work - you seem plenty capable mechanically, just lacking in confidence. But once you've got that 'lil Suzi running sharply, you'll be feeling like tackling CBX's and Desmosedeci's. :lol3
    #61
  2. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    neat. So is this a good system? Anything to take care of on that CCI system? Hey, what does CCI stand for anyways?
    #62
  3. norton73

    norton73 drinkin'

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    Crankcase controlled injection if memory serves me right.

    keeping the tank filled is the most important service procedure.
    #63
  4. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Ok, you talked me into it. I'm heading to work but will post pics later of what I'm looking at. I just ordered crankshaft seals right and left as I was uncertain which one I will be able to get to, fork seals and shift seal.

    Once I have the manual, I won't be as apprehensive. Thank you all for helping me in this. A little time and money spent now, will last a long time. I did reassemble the forks with tension, and damper still spins. Looking at the seal there is a snap ring but I just cannot imagine getting that seal past the shoulder in the stanchion!!???? Also, not sure if anyone knows about this but I've read many times in old brochures for the ts that the front forks are 3 way adjustable! And there are 3 settings, to change all you do is remove the rubber cap on the fork top, use a flat screwdriver and just turn clockwise for stiffer front. I don't thing the '81 has this, the fork cap is just 1/2" drive?
    #64
  5. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Oh, it has PEI igniton!!! How cool is that!!! It's made in Canada:D
    #65
  6. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    to dissasemble forks, first it needs to be all together with springs in and caps on it. drain fluid, or else it will get messy.
    the quick way:
    place fork upside down (or in vise), compress fork as much as you can. put rattle gun on retaining bolt and spin it off. spring should put enough pressure to allow bolt to loosen without spinning. i always give the bolt a good wack with a flat punch first to unsieze the threads.

    if tube is spinnning (it shouldn't, but if it does), clamp it back in the triple tree, then compress spring and rattle gun the bottom retainer bolt.

    to remove fork seals. remove cap and springs. remove snap ring that retains the fork seal - you will need to clean the dirt out above the snap ring.. place lower in vise (clamp at the axle mount if you have no soft jaws/vblocks. yank on fork tube. you may need to work fork tube like a slide hammer to get it out. you will not need the bottom damper retainer bolt out on this model of fork i believe. the snap ring on top of the fork seal has to be removed though.

    to replace fork seals if you do not have a specific seal press, wrap electrical tape around fork tube, place old seal on tube, place new seal on tube. use old seal/electrical tape setup to seat/press new seal. kinda hard to explain without picture... also, i put a greased piece of plastic bag over the fork tube end to stop burrs on tube from damaging new seal. then remove bag when seal is slid on tube.

    when it's all apart, get everything clean. make sure there's no junk in the bottom of the stanchion, and the damper rod holes (if there is any on the sides) are not blocked. clean clean clean and you won't need to redo fork seals for a very very long time...
    #66
  7. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    this is cdi bike, it appears to has some detonation on the front of the piston - could be air leak or ignition too far advanced. both symptoms show similar damage.. usually airleaks cause damage more near the center of piston, and ignition problems on front side of piston (pics show damage to front side and it also looks like there's a good divot in the center of the piston). but you're right it's most likely an airleak on the dry side seal or cracked intake boot.. it definitely got lean more than once.

    it's easy enough to take a quick look at the mag plate and see if it's been messed with - if it has, definitely do a timing check.
    #67
  8. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    i do not believe this model has adjustable forks.
    #68
  9. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    So, question about the air filter. I have it, but the foam is toast. Should I buy a k & n, buy foam at a shop, or loose the air box and run a pod? Being that air is so important to the 2-stroke I want to do whats best.
    #69
  10. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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  11. norton73

    norton73 drinkin'

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  12. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    #72
  13. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    suzuki part #13780-29310 - about $25.00 - i'm sure the uni is just as much..
    #73
  14. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    So, I'm at a standstill with the fork seals. I've tried everything. Removed both snap rings and cleaned very well. Bottom in vise and using the fork tube like a slide hammer. Everything fell off my workbench, but the seal didn't budge.
    Then I tried to pry it out which is what the book says. Sure, pry 30 year old, crusty rubber out while using an instrument that bends because of the 30 year old rubber. Then I reassembled the forks, pressed down to keep the damper rod from spinning and using the air wrench. Nothing.
    Then, I flipped them around in the vise and hung from the stanchion WHILE using the air wrench. Fucking nothing!!!!! I mean, what the fuck?!!!!

    This is stupid, I'm pms-ing so had to walk away before I threw the forks across the room. Next I'm gonna try to melt the fuckers out. Not really, but I'm left with no options. The book sucks. The really don't even tell you how to take this fork apart. And in the process of trying to dig it out, I nicked the tub. Fuck. Not sure what to do now. Any advice besides taking them to a shop?

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5456825801/" title="P1040995 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5456825801_1c23f5919a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040995" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5457432800/" title="P1040992 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5457432800_0afa76c17c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040992" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5457432210/" title="P1040987 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5457432210_33a2dc4a62.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="P1040987" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/22817219@N04/5456821137/" title="P1040991 by hardwaregrrl, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5456821137_a873ac6a78.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1040991" /></a>
    #74
  15. Duck_Pilot

    Duck_Pilot Retired Roadracer

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    OK then......that damper rod looks like it needs to come loose before the forks will separate. After finding a parts-lookup fische, I freely admit my previous error. The shop mechanics (many moons ago) had a tool to hold the damper from the top, once the cap and spring were removed. I can ask around with some fellow old-pharts, to see of a common tool will work as well.
    #75
  16. WB-PDX

    WB-PDX Long timer

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    You can also just put a fork in a wide door jam or staircase, use a car jack (the scissor style) and compress the forks until you actually blow the seals right out the leg. It makes a mess if you aren't careful, but works great every time. Just go slow and make sure the fork can't spring out of your giant home made ghetto vice system. As long as there is no rust further up the fork tube, the new seals will slide right down over and install easily. You can use a long section of PVC if you need to hammer them down in.

    I've been using this method any time I need a fast\easy fork seal change on a project bike... especially when I can't get the fork apart.
    #76
  17. norton73

    norton73 drinkin'

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    Well...

    Never really had so much problems unscrewing the bottom bolt out. Always got it out with the worst case compressing everything in the past.

    I've gotten seals (not fork) out before by running a sheet metal screw into the rubber, then using either pliers or slide hammer to pull it out.
    #77
  18. PFFOG

    PFFOG Richard Alps-aholic

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    the screw method mentioned above, or an electricians screwdriver driven into the seal and then pry it out.
    #78
  19. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    I've done both methods describes above. Andy, the screw method is great but the space between the stanchion and the fork tube is like 5mm. That is how I scratched the fork tube, and all it did to the seal was tear a hole in it.

    I've had 10 different screwdrivers in the seal, and they just break loose and tear another hole. I cannot get anything to remain solid enough to remove a larger chunk.

    It my DR forks you have to hold the damper rod with their "special" tool. I made one using a pipe and welded a 3/4" nut to the end. I held the damper rod in place while I spun the bottom bolt out. I thought I could do the same here but looking down the tube everything appears to be round. No schematics show a detail on the top of the damper rod. I feel like I'm loosing my mind. I mean the springs aren't much wider than my thumb, so why is it being such a bear.?

    Also, is there any way to fill the dings I've made on the tubes? I'm afraid it will cause the seals to leak, again....
    #79
  20. norton73

    norton73 drinkin'

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    Can't say I've ever had this much trouble undoing the bottom bolt.

    remove the top nut, use a long tube (pvc) to compress the spring?

    Wedge a piece of wood against the damper after removing the spring?

    :dunno

    Fine sand paper, followed by a stone might clean up any nicks in the fork tube.
    #80