2000 XR650R Build/Rebuild/Farkles

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by mitchn06, Mar 2, 2013.

  1. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    I finally got the ambition to tear apart my bike and prep it for year, and years to come.

    [​IMG] Stock seller photo

    Backstory: Got the bike in 2009 with unknown knowledge of miles, wear and tear, or anything. The bike did have the uncorking done to it though. The first summer i took it to Colorado for my 6 week internship and had a blast up there, remember, i'm from eastern South Dakota where there are only two types of roads, gravel and paved. Later that year (2009) the engine started getting louder and louder, ticking sound up top. I read this is normal of the bike and ignored it. I took very good care of the bike maintenance wise, but i think the bike was wearing out. Winter 2009/2010 took the head cover off and discovered a disaster, rockers and stock cam were destroyed.

    [​IMG] Rockers Toast

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    So in went the Hotcams Stage 1 along with all new parts in the head cover.
    Keep in mind this is winter now and in Iowa (i moved for a few years) so after Install i managed to break in the cam properly in an open field behind our apartment.

    Spring came and got to riding more and the bike never performed properly. like jetting was way off or something. i struggled with it all summer long and barely rode the damn thing. Well i thought for sure a mikuni TM40 would remedy this, So i bought one up and stuck that baby in there and no go. dang. but it did run better! so i rode it, it would die at stoplights and stumble, but i was riding it. Only got to ride it for about a month in 2010.

    2011, Moved back to South Dakota. I rode it to work for quite a while in 2011, but it was always raining, so not that much really.

    2012, we bought a house so i got a three stall garage to work on all my projects! a guy at work mentioned that it sounds like a timing issue, well after it took two tries to get the head cover to seal properly, i wasn't too keen on taking it off again, but i did, OH what do you know, when i installed the cam somehow it had slipped a tooth and the timing was off!! the rest of 2012 was good, the bike burned some oil, but not too bad. then it got worse, i have a 18 mile commute total everyday, and i rode it everyday after i fixed the timing for about a month, then it started drinking more oil, about a quart in a weeks time. that's a quart every 90 miles roughly. not good, but i took it to the western side of the state for a weekend with my cousin and had a blast.

    [​IMG]

    And Now:
    Wednesday i started tearing down bike top end. I wanted to tear it all down so i could figure out what i need and make one large parts order instead of several and paying more for shipping. I went out on a limb and got a standard bore standard compression Wiseco piston because it was on sale for $110 and i thought it was a steal. so i snagged it.

    [​IMG]
    Here are some dis-assembly pictures thus far.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]Bore is smooth and no signs of wear (i think standard bore piston will be just fine)

    [​IMG] Intake ports

    [​IMG] Exhaust ports (both look similar)

    [​IMG] All cleaned up

    [​IMG] Cleaned up good enough for now as new valves will be installed.

    [​IMG] Intake Left Side

    [​IMG] Intake Right Side

    [​IMG] Exhaust Right side

    [​IMG] Exhaust Left Side

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    [​IMG]Right Exhaust Valve

    [​IMG] Left Exhaust Valve

    [​IMG] Right Intake Valve

    [​IMG] Left Intake Valve

    This is all i have done so far. I anticipate this build to take several months because my wife and I are trying to get out of debt (only cars left) so we can start a family, so I only get and see $200 every two weeks, and I drive a Dodge Hemi, so half of that goes toward fuel every pay period.

    I'll do my best to keep this all updated and i will have some questions as i progress along. i'll take some measurements this weekend of all the parts and post them later.

    Any Tips/Suggestions/Comments are welcomed! Wish me Luck!!
    #1
  2. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    any recommendations on where to send the head off to have the seats cut? i'm gonna call around to some shops here to get pricing, but just thought i'd ask. maybe a fellow adv guy does them? Thanks
    #2
  3. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    I sent mine to JR at XRSonly and he took care of everything. My head and jug were returned new and improved with my name engraved on them.
    I had the head opened up, I think +3 on the intake and ex.
    #3
  4. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    curious what this would cost, ballpark even. PM me if you care to.
    #4
  5. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    Oh lord, I don't remember. I would give them a call. Costs will vary depending on what you get, such as the bigger valves (probably not needed unless you are doing other things), port and polish, etc.

    A ballpark I would guess at $500, because everything you do to a thumper motor is $500, and because I have been shopping around for prices on doing a CRF head. A good way to estimate it also is to price the parts (Valves, springs, etc) and double it.

    I chose them because I know they have done this motor many many times before.
    #5
  6. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    i agree with this, a local shop here quoted me
    $20 to clean the head
    $40 to grind the seats
    $40 to mill

    i was astounded by the prices, and wasn't sure what the difference was between grinding and milling, but i'm guessing the mill takes out more material? not really sure, so i didn't ask.
    but like you said, you trust a reputable source that has the experience with the particular head you are using.
    #6
  7. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    Valve/Head results are in:

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    looks like i will have to add some parts to my ever-growing list
    #7
  8. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    i think i was getting a bit tired last night while doing these measurements as i see that the valve guide ID magically shrunk from factory. it was a bit difficult with my caliper to get a good inside reading, so its wrong.
    #8
  9. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    The milling is the also called decking and its basically machining the contact point with the cylinder and makes sure its flat, not warped.

    The grinding is the cutting of the valve seats.

    Just know that if you decide on oversized valves, don't go too big so you leave room for another cutting.
    #9
  10. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    decided to take the piston out last night and found that the wrist pin and rod small end were slightly scored. I was wondering if this meant that i will need a new connecting rod, or if i can just run it(maybe run some 400 grit paper over it?). depending on how bad it really is. I could barely feel it with my fingers, but i certainly can see it. I'll post up some pictures tonight.
    #10
  11. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    The only way to fix that without some really expensive processes, is to replace it.

    Make sure to find a rod with roller bearings on both ends. I used a Falicon, but there are some cheaper units out there. I had a local shop press the new one together along with the crank bearings. Cost like $40 for the labor.

    Small end failure seems pretty common.

    Edit: I am not sure if any rod has bearings on the small end. All I know is the cost of the falicon made me poop my pants, but I got it anyhow.
    #11
  12. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    here are the pics:
    [​IMG]

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    #12
  13. XR650Gnar

    XR650Gnar Adventurer

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    Im in the middle of pretty much the exact same build, well, similar parts, swapping everything into a new case after I s'ploded it last May.. Just sent my head, cylinder and crank out to XRs Only for a rocker face hard weld, valve job (new everything), and the crank pressed with the new rod. (didnt go falicon, though I feel I should have bit the bullet.) Im also doing a stage 1 hot cam. Curious what elevation you are at? Maybe we can compare notes on jetting with the new cam when we both get to that point.

    Its looking like Ill be a couple weeks out at the moment, waiting on all new bearings and seals.
    #13
  14. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    Yep. Gonna have a pretty tight engine when it's all said and done. Did you go pro-x or oem the. All I can find so far for options is carillo, falicon, pro-x, and oem and the only one in my price range is the pro-x. The wife has this great idea to get out of debt and start a family, so I only have $100 to work with every two weeks. It sucks. Gonna take me 3 months to finish this damn bike.
    #14
  15. XR650Gnar

    XR650Gnar Adventurer

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    I decided to go with the pro x mostly because with all the associated costs (hidden and otherwise) of a pretty much 100% complete rebuild $300 just for the rod is rough. I stayed with the stock bore and compression more for reliability than anything. I think a falicon is bling for this application but shifts more to mandatory when you go high compression, bigger bore, stage 2 cam etc.
    #15
  16. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    i follow you. I will more than likely do the same. Doesn't the Pro-x have a bearing on the small end also? that seems like it makes more sense to me than it being a plain bearing, but what do i know?:1drink
    #16
  17. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    list of bearings and seals that should be replaced while everything is apart? It seems that my online OEM parts list is growing up over $400 for the build, and it probably really does not need to be. thoughts?
    #17
  18. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    Many of the smaller bearings, as in the clutch rod lifter, etc, do not need to be replaced since they don't spin much.

    It seems like I was into it about $400 for bearings and seals also.
    #18
  19. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    it seems rediculous to spend $75 on the crank bearings, how can one bearing be twice as much as another?? crazy!!

    I sold several of my Winter project bikes teh other day, so i came across some $$ to burn, but i thought it would last longer than one parts order, not including the valves or connecting rod! I have all the head cover bolts on the list to replace since last time i had it off, one broke and i'm sure others are close to life's end. those add up too. I have the cam tensioner on the list, and also the cam chain guide, no signs of wear on the guide, so i might remove it from the list also, shave $25 there. what about balancer bearings??
    #19
  20. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    couple questions:
    1. on clutch basket there is slight wear on the posts from the springs for some reason. is this "normal"
    2. slight wear on the clutch basket again where the fiber discs ride

    [​IMG]

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    3. cam chain guide, what is considered wear? the darker spots on the guide? it feels fine and not sure if replacement is required.

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    random morning shot before work
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    4. cam chain tensioner arm, how do you tell if there is wear on this part, it looks fine and feels fine, but i didn't snap a pic.

    5. i've already posted this in the main thread, but i've made up an OEM parts list that you can find HERE
    #20