2001 Gas Gas 321 TXT Clutch Issues

Discussion in 'Trials' started by wb22rules, Feb 26, 2013.

  1. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    Made the clutch basket holder tool today out of one of the old thick plates, I will put up a pic of it when the camera (and my wife) gets back in town .
    #41
  2. ADVCoop

    ADVCoop Been here awhile

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    Nice. I had to get wire for my welder so I haven't been able to make one yet.
    #42
  3. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    I got the clutch installed, I put the head back on after the decarboning, hope to be able to check out the new clutch action before too long. Spent an hour the other night with a steel wire toothbrush cleaning the exhaust, the radiator has been been cleaned, now just to finish cleaning up the engine and the skid plate areas, repack the muffler and I will get it put back together. The wood pile is damn near all split and stacked so that chore is almost gone. I think I am ready for a cold winter with what I have put up :D
    #43
  4. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    Well the pile of unsplit wood is now gone :clap

    [​IMG]

    And it has all been split and ready to season for next winter.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    I will let my 20 yr old stack that last row.

    So hopefully I can get the Gasser back together soon and wrap this thread up with a nice little post about the clutch working perfectly and start my next project, making sections around the lot to play in :wink:
    #44
  5. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    Got her back together last night after having it fairly dissasembled.
    Put oil and coolant and fresh fuel in it this afternoon, no leaks :D.
    Fired up third kick, putted around a bit, the clutch and gearbox are working very nicely now.
    It is nice to be able to snick it into nuetral while stopped with the clutch in now.
    I did have to readjust the rear brake as when it got warmed up it started to drag so I had to give the pedal a bit more play.
    After checking the clutch on a 5th and 6th gear run the bike did not want to idle, it would want to rev up on its own for a minute after a high gear run. I believe I may have to do a little tuning on the carb but that issue sounds like a possible intake air leak right ? Tomorrow I will try to verify if any of the gaskets or seals between the carb and the jug are leaking with some aerosol. I had a new gasket but reused the old one as it was in good shape. Anything else come to mind for the engine wanting to rev on its own after high gear runs? I have verified it is not a cable issue, I kept adjusting the idle screw back out to make sure that isn't it, but it doesnt do it from putting around in low gears, only after hitting 5th and 6th for a few hundred yards.

    All in all I am happy I have no leaks of any liquids, the exhaust gaskets and o rings are all holding, no leaks there either and the trans and clutch feel so buttery now compared to before it is very nice :clap
    #45
  6. Sting32

    Sting32 Trials Evangelist

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    Float stuck or you're not getting enough gas out of the tank into the carb. Hey hi gear run uses a lot of gas in these things so it's probably starving for fuel , after a hi gear run, that is my guess good luck.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

    SHEEEEIT, I didnt notice that, fixed@! lol
    #46
  7. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    Thanks Sting
    Thats a funny feature your phone must have , changes mispelled "floats" to something else LOL

    I was not able to find any intake leak, so the lean condition may be from the carb floats out of adjustment. I did change the air filter, and the old one was really thick and gummy once oiled, the new Twin Air filter is probably offering a bit less resistance to flow contributing to the lean running. I will take the carb back off and double check everything possible. The cable routing, carb floats and adj, confirm the jets/needle installed as I found some settings from Jim Snell for my bike at 3000ft or less which should put me close to optimum. Once I put it back together I will try to get her tuned so its running right accross the board. If I get hung up I will let you guys know :1drink
    #47
  8. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    Well I took some time this evening and took the carb back out and since I had the gasket kit took it completely apart and cleaned and replaced the gaskets. The floats were out of adjustment according to Jims video, the tabs previously were parallel to the body when compressing the spring in the float valve, as opposed to being parallel to the body without compressing the spring in the valve but just resting on it. That would have made the fuel level in the carb almost a centimeter lower than it should be which would explain the lean running. I must have adjusted them incorrectly late one night while messing around the garage. The info I was able to find for jetting at Jim Snells site suggested a 114 main, a 36 or 38 pilot, and a D36 needle at the 2nd clip position down from the top.
    What I found in the carb was a 114 main, a 40 pilot and a D34 needle. The slide is a 60, the atomizer is a 270K and I could not read the choke jet, but really don't care that much about that one as it starts fine. I put the clip on the needle down one notch to the third spot to start as I believe that should richen the mix for the part of the throttle the needle controls and I would rather be a tad rich now, so its not lean later in the year when the humidity thins back out. Also I did find a better route for the cable by the radiator overflow tube so its lubed and correctly adjusted now, previously it was not allowing the slide to fully seat at the bottom. So I will post back up hopefully tomorrow when I have had a chance to start it, trim the idle fuel screw, set the idle and see how it is running.
    #48
  9. ADVCoop

    ADVCoop Been here awhile

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    Glad you are getting it sorted out.
    #49
  10. laser17

    laser17 Been here awhile

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    If you dont mind wrenching - I recommend the change to the 36 needle and run the clip in the 2nd pos from the top in the summer. Will really clean up the transition (more responsive) from pilot to needle circuit - especially with the 40 pilot jet. (Which the phbl really seems to like) Fuel screw typically ends up 3-3 1/2 turns out at sea level here in new england (Humid as well)
    #50
  11. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    Thanks for the suggestion, I haven't put the tank or seat back on so I can get back to that slide pretty easy and move the clip back up to the second slot. Oh I see you mean change the needle to the recommended D36.
    Where do you guys get carb parts? I am not sure if any of the motorcycle dealers in town will have parts for old Dell Ortos, unless jets and needles are universal with Mikunis and Keihens and whatever the newer bikes may come with nowadays. They do look exactly like what I used to find in my old Hondas and Yamahas now that I think about it.

    Edit- I guess I could order it from the source here but that looks to be very pricey once you factor in the shipping.
    http://www.dellorto.com/merchandise/products.asp?CategoryID=2&PartsectionID=24
    #51
  12. laser17

    laser17 Been here awhile

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    Yes - the D36 is the std needle used in the PHBL and works very well.

    You found the the Dellorto UK site and I use them for finding part numbers as the USA importer site doesn't have anything like it online - but has all the parts. The importer here is Herdan and they typically sell to dealers and also have a minimum order size - but any USA dealer can get them. Stu deals with them all the time and may have one in stock for that matter. Would save on shipping and probably cheaper on the price as well.
    #52
  13. Sting32

    Sting32 Trials Evangelist

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    Order a new float needle. the 3 piece unit you have, failed me on my 04 raga, during an event. Hopefully they ship solid version, that is what I recieved anywho. BTW, I wrote about it on Trails central quite a while back though, but I post a lot, hard to find it.

    what happend to me was the little spring loaded plunger (part of the needle I'm talking about) was worn out from vibration, would actually try to extend way too far (come apart) but then apparently catch, then run very lean hard to ride in fyou know what I mean, then it might almost clear up for a little ways, then do what you are saying, lower the float level.

    FWIW, Troubleshooting was dumbass luck for me... you'd would disassemble the carb, I did it about 14 times that afternoon, during a trials... Didn't see it until almost disaster/miracle: Dropped the needle and float taking the pin out the 3rd time, mind you working on picnic table on dirt/grass field, outside the camper at a trials. I was doing that reaction where you know if it bounced, it was lost, but missed. but luckily stayed on table, BUT! the needle fell apart. you have to envision this, the little spring loaded plunger part came out of the needle... I had all the parts though, including that micro spring.

    So I didnt have one, nobody I knew or even didn't know at the event, had one. So dad and I held the plunger back into the needle, then smashed the little hole the plunger stuck through with pliers, to make it SOLID at the collapsed/compressed lenght. checked float level for that, rode 2 more days until parts arrived.

    That is what I would do, but YMMV. :thumb
    #53
  14. wb22rules

    wb22rules Bourbon Tester

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    Sting : If I order some carb parts I will make sure I order a spare float valve so in case that one I have goes screwy I have a replacement. I think most of the carbs I have taken apart on all the jap bikes me and my friends owned growing up had the same springy float valve, luckily none of them have decided to screw with me like that one did you :wink:

    I left the D34 needle clip down on the third one from the top, put it back together and gave it a test ride. Started on first kick, tuned the idle fuel screw and the idle, putted around the yard in 2nd a few times hitting the gas going up the slope. It pulls like a tractor now right off of idle, a wheelie machine :D, but it seemed to have a rich spot at about a third throttle when the needle takes over. Went and tried some full throttle 5th and 6th gear action and once again it was a tractor off of idle, seemed a bit rich at a third to a half throttle and seemed fine at full throttle.
    Brought it back into the garage and changed the needle clip to the second spot from the top, went back out and did some second gear wheelies in the yard going uphill and the rich burble at a third throttle was gone, seemed really smooth through out the whole range of the throttle. I just wish I had some jets and needles to try a little tweaking up or down to make sure it is spot on, cause the difference between running soso and today was great, like I said it pulled like a tractor off of idle and would lift the front in damn near every gear :clap.
    #54
  15. laser17

    laser17 Been here awhile

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    Clearly, if your happy with how the bike is running now, then I certainly wouldn't blame you for not ordering more parts. Sounds like your probably good. However. Any "float" needle valve seat/tip can wear and leak - so a good idea to have a 270 or 300 in spares. Spare PHBL pilot jets are dirt cheap as well. 38/40 are all you need. I have been known to send the dam needle clip flying across the room as well, so I always have spare clips on hand as well.
    #55
  16. Sting32

    Sting32 Trials Evangelist

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    Lewissport.com should be able to provide you any parts you need delorto wise. plus in your area, you could support a local dealer, gasgas.com has list of dealers by state. Im sure other makes do too, I just dont know who all has/had that delorto...
    #56