2004 KDX 200 to dual sport conversion

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Z50R, Nov 23, 2012.

  1. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

    Joined:
    May 11, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    Boston Mass.
    I know that many people can come up with a wiring schematic for them selves but many others have difficulty doing so. I came up with this one and have tested it for the past year without issues so I figure it is time to share so others can steal my ideas and improve on them.

    My KDX comes stock with an accessory output on the stator that runs a head and tail light on AC power. This wiring schematic will work on any bike that starts out as such.

    Lets start with the wiring diagram then follow up by explaining the why and how:

    [​IMG]

    The wiring between the Stator, Coil, CDI, Spark Plug, and Kill Switch is all stock. The Key Switch is a double throw switch where one side is normally open and one is normally closed. The side that is closed when the key is removed is attached to the same wire as the kill switch and grounded to the frame. This completes the half of the wiring diagram that allows the bike to run. Note that a battery is still not required and that the bike can be kicked over with a completely dead battery without issue as long as the key is turned on and the kill switch isn't held down.

    The Dual Sport half of the wiring diagram is designed to draw as few amps from the stator as possible as the stock stator is not able to produce many amps and even with a rewound stator, halogen lighting is still taxing on the system. To combat this problem all LED lighting is used. This requires a DC lighting system. The side bonus is that the lights come on when the key is turned on and can run with the bike off. To make this happen I chose a bunch of parts stocked at Procycle;
    http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html

    High Beam: Solstice 10w LED Narrow Beam
    Low Beam: Solstice 10w LED Elliptical Beam
    Handlebar Controls: Mini Handlebar Combination Switch
    Tail Light:
    LED Taillight / Brakelight DOT Approved
    License Plate Lighting:
    LED License plate light
    2X turn signals:
    Crash Advantage LED Turn Signals - Pack of 2
    Flasher Relay:
    LED 12V Turn Signal Flasher
    Regulator Rectifier:
    12V RECTIFIER/REGULATOR
    Battery:
    Trail Tech 12v NiMH Battery
    2X Brake switch indicators:
    HYDRAULIC BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
    Key:
    Power & Ignition Key Switch

    Don't forget you will also need things like mirrors, DOT tires, and a speedometer/odometer that Procycle sells. I find that if you order over the phone and order a lot of stuff at the same time, Procycle hooks you up. I have had nothing but good deals from them so I continue to patronize them.


    In addition to the above you will need colored wire, spade or torpedo connectors, three relays, a fuse, a horn, and the ability to solder to finish this project. The wiring diagram takes advantage of the handlebar control's ability to shut off the lights. There are few reasons to be able to turn off lights on a motorcycle but why not have the option :evil. With this wiring schematic your bike will have the low beam on when the switch is set to low, both beams will be on when set to high, and all lights (turn signals, tail, brake, etc.) will be off when the switch is set to off. I am impressed with the LEDs as headlights, I find the light thrown off more controlled than the HID conversion I did to my DR650, not as bright, but brighter in the directions that matter, so it is easier to ride at night.

    From the stator the two yellow wires run to the regulator/rectifier. This is standard on any DC bike but on an AC bike like the KDX you will need to open up the stator and remove the ground wire and replace it with a yellow wire that follows the other existing yellow wire. If you are ambitious you can rewind the stator while you are doing this work. The regulator/rectifier comes with instructions on how to wire it based on the output of the stator/battery capacity/load. As this project is oriented, the battery serves as a secondary source and the load is run directly off the regulator/rectifier. In the diagram, red is hot and black is return. The lighting is not grounded through the frame! The hot feed runs through the fuse then feeds all systems: each of the three relays requires a source of power to switch and a command to switch that power, the red wire in is the source of power. The red feed also connects to the headlight "in" side of the handle bar controls. When the headlight switch is in the bottom "off" position, none of the relays receive a command feed and none of the lights are powered. When the switch is set to the middle "low beam" position, the red feed into the handle bar switch is fed to the white wire out of the switch allowing current to flow to all auxiliary lighting and triggering the top relay to the on position as the white wire into the top relay feeds through the coil and out the black wire allowing a circuit to be completed between the red wire feed in and the red wire feed out. This relay runs the low beam lighting. When the headlight switch is set to the top "high beam" position, the red feed into the handle bar controls is routed out the dark blue wire to both the middle and bottom relays. The middle relay feeds current from its red input to the white output wire and the blue wire is connected through the coil to the black return wire. This middle relay allows all auxiliary lighting to turn on and allows the top relay to turn on the low beam. The bottom relay is triggered by the dark blue wire running through the coil to the black return wire allowing the red feed in to run to the red feed out and turn on the high beam. All other wiring should be self evident but feel free to ask questions.

    The Procycle handlebar switch has a LED indicator for the high beam. Mine blew (over current?) and blew again when I put a new LED in. I haven't tried to fix this problem.

    I used the stock KDX headlight by removing everything behind the lens and mounting the LEDs inside, this keeps the bike looking stock and causes fewer questions when it is time for inspection. I did the same thing by destroying the existing LED tail light housing and installing the LEDs inside the stock housing for the tail light. Turn signal brackets and a license plate bracket were fabricated to make it all look professional.

    I will post pictures of the bike in a day or so



    #1
  2. canyncarvr

    canyncarvr Adventurer

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    Apr 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    57
    How'd it go?

    :ear
    #2
  3. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    Thanks for bumping this thread. I'm currently shopping for a KDX to plate and this helps immensely.

    Any pics?
    #3
  4. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

    Joined:
    May 11, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    Boston Mass.
    This thread didn't go anywhere so I didn't follow it. I am getting married this weekend so I am too busy to run out in the shop and take pictures now. The bike does need work (a good thing in your case) and I intend to get on that soon so while I have it apart to clean/fix the carburetor I will take pictures of everything else. As mentioned in the first post, I have made no attempt to make the high beam indicator LED work better. It would probably only need a resistor and maybe I will try to fix it while I have the bike apart. All other electronic gizmos work well. The license plate bracket was made of bent stainless steel and the way I made it caused it to crack when vibrated so much. I will have to make a new bracket. I promise an update before riding season opens up in Massachusetts.
    #4
  5. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    Well, I've made a verbal agreement to buy a local inmate's 1997 KDX220R :clap

    Even better... it is already titled and plated.

    When is "riding season" anyhow? We ride 12 months a year down here in OK.:D
    #5
  6. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

    Joined:
    May 11, 2009
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    Location:
    Boston Mass.
    Do your self a favor and stay away from the big city. There are too many people on the east coast so they regulate riding like hunting here. Our public trails are open May to November and I don't know anyone with enough land to ride leagally offroad at other times of the year.
    #6
  7. dirtysouthjacket

    dirtysouthjacket Been here awhile

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    Mar 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    849
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Awesome! I've got a plated KDX now that I've had the past 3 months. I've really just played on it a few times and rode local powerlines. I still don't have a horn/bell or mirrors yet. If you start making yours streetable, we can start swapping ideas. I will tell you its boat loads of fun to ride, and still scares me sometimes in the woods.
    #7
  8. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

    Joined:
    May 11, 2009
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    911
    Location:
    Boston Mass.
    I still haven't had time to take the bike apart but I did spend some drawing up the schematic again in a more generic/less dumbed down form.

    [​IMG]
    #8
  9. mrgem

    mrgem Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    65
    Location:
    CO Rockies, west of Denver
    Just picked up 2 90 KDX220s... One a complete, running bike in need of nothing more than a front rotor (warped -- I have A replacement) and the other a basket case that will never run again.

    The basket case has a title and can be plated, so I will be doing a frame swap. I bought the bikes as a low dollar experiment to see if a lighter, simpler bike can replace my big, heavy DRZ400 for local trail work. Colorado is quite liberal about what you can plate (but stricter than they used to be) but there are a couple of aspects of plating the bike that are a small challenge -- especially because I want to keep the upgrade simple and cheap.

    Two things I need to know -- Stop lamps -- How do you wire up a stop lamp (rear brake only -- using a mechanical switch, preferably) and how can I replace the factory tail light with an LED unit? If possible, I'd like to get something that will fit in the factory light housing. It doesn't need a tag light. Second, what kind of speedo and speedo drive works best. I know that KDXs had a factory-optional speedo and drive, but they are NLA from the dealer now...And they would be quite expensive.

    ProCycle has a "mini" speedo, for about 50 bucks...or I can try and adapt a speedo/drive/cable from another bike.

    Postscript -- I think my speedo solution will be a bicycle speedo, specifically the Sigma Sport BC1009 wireless. Has anyone tried this solution?

    What has worked for you all?
    #9
  10. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    From another site I found the KDX model history. Supposedly, the 220R wasn't available till 1997 :dunno
    1979 KDX400
    1980 KDX80, KDX175, KDX250, KDX400
    1981 KDX80, KDX175, KDX250, KDX420
    1982 KDX80, KDX175, KDX250, KDX450
    1983 KDX80, KDX200, KDX250
    1984 KDX80, KDX200, KDX250
    1985 KDX80, KDX200
    1986 KDX80, KDX200
    1987 KDX80, KDX200
    1988 KDX80, KDX200
    1989 KDX200
    1990 KDX200
    1991 KDX200, KDX250
    1992 KDX200, KDX250
    1993 KDX200, KDX250
    1994 KDX200, KDX250
    1995 KDX200
    1996 KDX200
    1997 KDX200, KDX220R
    1998 KDX200, KDX220R
    1999 KDX200, KDX220R
    2000 KDX200, KDX220R
    2001 KDX200, KDX220R
    2002 KDX200, KDX220R
    2003 KDX50, KDX200, KDX220R
    2004 KDX50, KDX200, KDX220R
    2005 KDX50, KDX200, KDX220R

    2006 KDX50, KDX200
    #10
  11. dirtysouthjacket

    dirtysouthjacket Been here awhile

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    Congrats on the bikes! You will find that the KDX is like butter on the trails. However, long dual sporting is a little rough and gas mileage and top speed are terrible. But for just jumping from trail to trail on surface streets, it is great. Or just playing around in cities.

    I haven't done it yet, but I was planning on putting a TrailTech computer on the bike. That would give you more functionality than just a simple speedo. But with the basic cheap ones (under $100) you get several different functions like temp, speed, tach, hour meter, lap timer, etc. The most expensive even has built in gps.
    #11
  12. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    Probably a question for a different thread, but what about a motarded KDX?

    Wondering if it's worthwhile to look into spare rims and tires.
    #12
  13. dirtysouthjacket

    dirtysouthjacket Been here awhile

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    I haven't ridden one. But I've got a front wheel and have been looking for a rear, but not in a big hurry. I don't want to spend more than $75 shipped on it. I got the front for less than that. But then I was going to see about getting some Excel Rims and then I'm not sure if this is even possible, but just cut down the spokes that are on the donor wheels. I need to go out to the garage and look at them. Then of course I need to pick out some tires. But that would be under $500 for a motard setup. Again, I'm sure there are lot better motard bikes out there (just like there are better dual sport bikes). But damn the KDX is fun! :evil

    Plus, how many 2 stroke motards have you seen?
    #13
  14. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    Personally, none. We have a nice racetrack near here with options for track days all the time. Raced the KLR out there for OK Gold Rush back in October. It is a mixed-surface harescramble with pavement, MX track, woods, grasstrack, etc. Hellofa good time, and I finished mid-pack. Passed a shitload of dirtbikes and was clocked at about 72mph on the straight with offroad gearing.:D
    #14
  15. dirtysouthjacket

    dirtysouthjacket Been here awhile

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    Oh man, that is awesome! My first bike was a KLR. I'm getting tired thinking about using a KLR in a hare scramble. I always got wore out on mine taking it on serious single track. :rofl

    But I'm getting a lot better offroad every time I ride. The KDX is helping a lot.
    #15
  16. mrgem

    mrgem Adventurer

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    CO Rockies, west of Denver
    #16
  17. dirtysouthjacket

    dirtysouthjacket Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    849
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    #17
  18. Z50R

    Z50R Not lost yet

    Joined:
    May 11, 2009
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    Boston Mass.
    The stop lamp wire job is easy. Splice a wire from your tail light power wire and connect it to one side of the mechanical switch. Connect the other wire from your switch to the brake wire on your tail light. The DOT LED light from procycle has three wires: red is tail light (should get a steady 12 volts when the bike is running) yellow is brake (12 volts when the brake switch is pushed) and black for return or ground depending on how your bike is wired. I used a hydraulic switch instead of the mechanical one and can't think of a reason to use a mechanical one over hydraulic if given the choice...

    The KDX tail light assembly comes apart by removing screws from the bottom. Once you have the lense off, you will find the lamp holder is screwed to two plastic standoffs cast into the lower housing.

    The DOT approved LED tail light that procycle sells comes glued together. If you are careful, the entire assembly can be pried appart without breaking anything but since you really don't care about the housing you can go to town with a dremmel tool if that is faster for you. The lense is held to the body with a superglue (brittle) and can easly be popped apart. The PC board is glued to the housing with something rubbery like liquid nails or shoe goo. This is trickier to remove. Keep in mind your priorities: don't break the PC board and who cares about the housing. I cut the housing up with dykes then removed the glue a bit at a time.

    After you have the LEDs on a PC board in your hand, drill two holes in the board and screw the board in place of the lamp holder. Obviously don't drill through the traces if you can dodge it. The housing needs two of the stiffeners trimmed back for clearance but unless you botch the job the light remains watertight.

    My kdx had an odometer but no speedo, the previous owner bought the mini speedometer from procycle. I told the DMV that the odometer is not accurate to the bike and they had a fit about how I shouldn't have told them bla bla bla. A few lessons: your bike needs an odometer in most places to be legit, a bicycle speedometer has that function but officer friendly may not like it since it can be reset. Also, the procycle speedometer displays 0mph when I am stopped and 40mph when I am moving. It really is just there so I can pass inspection. If you want to know how fast you are going maybe look at other options.
    #18