2012 BMW G650GS Sertao Owners

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Psychout, Dec 8, 2011.

  1. nylon2000

    nylon2000 Wanderer

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    I think the EBC part number is: CK5636

    I do think the drive plates are glazed, and because the friction plates still have material on them, will see if i can get somewhere with the sandpaper/spacer solution.

    Will keep you posted.
  2. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur

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    Glad to hear there is still meat on the friction plates. I use wet-or-dry or emery-cloth type sand papers when roughing up metal. Scratch the plates radially (outwards from the center) and not circularly. Sanding in small circles while rotating the plates also works well. You don't need really coarse sandpaper: 220 or 320 grit should be fine to break the polish.
    Make sure to wash the plates thoroughly afterwards. You should be able to get kerosene everywhere and that will work well.
    Keeping fingers crossed that it works. Worth a try anyway.
    Try without spacers if possible.
  3. bcinkc

    bcinkc Adventurer

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    Correct me if I'm wrong, as I have not had these parts in my hands. In a pinch you can also add extra washers to increase spring pressure (extra washers @#19 in diagram)

    [​IMG]
  4. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur

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    Correct, adding washers will increase somewhat the pre-load (the Normal force for those engineers out there). It will also increase force needed at the clutch lever to overcome the pre-load.
    Adding washers is one way to compensate for overall plate wear but unfortunately friction plates rarely wear out evenly. Usually one or two get very thin while the others are almost new.
  5. bcinkc

    bcinkc Adventurer

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    Very true, but if there are worn friction plates, the pressure would be lower than spec. Weak spring pressure will cause the clutch to slip even more. Adding a single washer onto each of those springs may provide a stop-loss to the damage that is being done by insufficient force. The force may be greater at the lever, or may be approximately the same as before, depending on the damage already done. In the normal run of things one would just replace the clutch pack altogether and ride on. However, waiting in Mongolia for three weeks while the parts are still being whittled somewhere thousands of miles away isn't really the normal run of things.
  6. Trane Francks

    Trane Francks Been here awhile

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    If doing a sandpaper-to-roughen surfaces, last-ditch effort to get moving again, it might be helpful to reassemble the clutch 'reversing' the plates in order of wear, i.e., replacing the least worn bits with the most worn and vice versa. Generally speaking, though, once you've glazed your plates, you're pretty much due for replacement over the long haul.
  7. swamp

    swamp U lie&yo'breff stank

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    "mmm.. yes. approximate is the force with you. always in motion is the future"


    [​IMG]
  8. bcinkc

    bcinkc Adventurer

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    nice
  9. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur

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    Missed something. You would not add washers like #19, but you would add very skinny washers with OD and ID about the same as the springs. Add them at the bottom of each spring. Adding another washer the size of #19 under the bolt does nothing.
  10. dazz

    dazz Been here awhile

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    Correct. Adding washers does NOTHING. Parts 2 and 17 are bolted tightly together with a bolt and one washer. Another washer does not help. You either need to increase the thickness of that pile of plates and friction plates or decrease the height of the clutch basket. (not an easy option.)

    In the future, makes sure you always have play at your clutch handle. Make sure your clutch cable is not too tight. If it's too tight it is like slipping your clutch at all times. That's about the only way to burn up a clutch on one of these bikes.

    As Moto says,"but you could add very skinny washers with OD and ID of the clutch springs thereby increasing spring tension." That OD and ID is the important thing with this method. Good luck.
  11. SwollenCranium

    SwollenCranium Been here awhile

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    It might be a sign of my unwillingness to do BDAR unless absolutely life dependent but I'm thinking why try and Jerry rig it if you are in a comfortable place, and are not in danger?


    Looks like all the options above, except replace with new, will leave him stranded again at some point and the next "some point" might be in a place less suited for not getting dead.

    I'm not totally risk adverse but ... :huh
  12. nylon2000

    nylon2000 Wanderer

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    Petrol/gasoline and sandpaper seem to be cleaning them up nicely, will put it all together tomorrow and see if it rides. And, yes, i'll order new plates, but with a 2-4 week delivery estimate, i'm going to try to get them shipped further along.

    Thanks for your help so far!
  13. nylon2000

    nylon2000 Wanderer

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    PS. So unimpressed with BMW dealership service in this - i tried germany, usa, and the uk.

    That said, the support from ADV, HUBB, and the bikers here has been awesome.
  14. kdennan

    kdennan Been here awhile

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    You would think that BMW would be the obvious choice to go with for a bike based on world wide dealer support.
  15. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    One thing to remember with G Series engine part numbers is that there is likely to be a difference in royalties payable to Rotax between F Series and G Series and hence the need for a different part number

    The clutch plates could well be the same parts as the F Series but that is masked in the parts system by the different numbers. A quick measurement and a pic could provide answers and posting over at f650 is bound to get some one with old plates able to measure them up. There may even be people over there with plates on the shelf, you would need the dual spark steel plates, fibre plates are the same single and dual spark
  16. petepuma

    petepuma Been here awhile

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    Three words....K....L....R

    sent via mental telepathy
  17. kdennan

    kdennan Been here awhile

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    Sorry, new subject for a moment,
    Checking out lighting options from Twisted Throttle.
    One kit, the Denali D1 for example, draws 10watts per lamp (2). Is that safe for our stock capacity, taking into allowance for the heated grips and my heated jacket?
    And a GPS?
    I'm a total noob savant with electrical:D
  18. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur

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    20W total is no problem. 200W would be a big problem. Anyone taken an ammeter and measured the current running with lights and grips on low? should try that but not at the present time.
  19. kdennan

    kdennan Been here awhile

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    Great, Thanks
    I kinda thought so but I'm nervous about electric's. :lol3
  20. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur

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    When I get a chance, I plan on breaking down all of the electric loads so we all know how much we can use (unless anyone else want to beat me to it).
    The 2013 spec says it has a 400W alternator. You should always keep 10% in reserve for charging the battery. That leaves 360W. So, if you can measure how much the engine and headlight use, and then the heated grips, the rest is available for accessories.