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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.
You have a XCW. 13/50
He has a exc and I believe he said 14/50 didn't he?
I graduated from the University of Hard Knocks........ and thus, in line with my education..... well... lets just say i now have large gaps in my Air-Filter Bod Fender...
I have an EXC with 14/48 and a mt-43 trials tire. It is close and am going to add a link or get another chain.
Guys I just bought a 2013, 500 and I need to know the size of the two lower clamp bolts that go into the triple clamps. Long story short I shipped them to someone by accident. Thanks
Charlie Mullins had one back in the beginning of the season on his 450!
speaking of...did he actually "accidentally unscrew" his oil cap with his boot? because it getting broken off by something seems a lot more plausible...
The new design can be accidentally loosened with your boot. The guys around here just trim the ears back and use pliers (or their KTM supplied beer cap opener) to remove it. End of problem.
I keep my beer cap opener / 13mm wrench in my tool pouch. No telling when you might encounter a beer running wild out there in the woods.
getting one of the billet ones that has a nut cast into to the top.
Another tangent on this thread,Hey has anyone had any issues with their fuel lines rupturing from the tank to the quick dissconnect or from the QD to the Throttle body?As I read on ktmtalk of a guy with a 13 500 exc had his maiden voyage scratched by this problem,I heard of a couple of incidents on the 12 but this is the first I heard on the 13?anyone heard/had this issue? as on the trail you kinda SOL to fix! solutions as the 13 QD is pretty happening,like to keep it.
Rare, but it happens. I'm getting a new '13 500 next week. I may just buy some 5/16th I high pressure line from my local auto parts and install it along with my Golan filter I'm getting via Amazon. Just be done with it and not worry. If you are seriously worried about a rupture you can 1) run the bike and see if you have one and then deal with it or 2) just take care of it ahead of time assuming that the probability is high enough to warrant the trouble of purchasing line and installing it. End of discussion.
Stu wish it was that easy,I don't know if your familiar with the line as it takes a tight radious sweep in a small distance and S turns in short distance to the QR filter coupling,and without being a preformed hose you could risk line kinking and causing real damage to the fuel pump/FI etc and poor performance too boot,hope you prove me wrong and it's that easy!please keep me informed of your findings? I'm certainly looking into easy fix as well.In my local riding area this something you want to avoid,as it could lead to long and miserable walk or tow,or the old hell ride!
You do have a valid point worth considering. If you have enough line the kink is not a factor and I would have that. If you have enough line you will have to have some way to restrict the line so it does not get caught by bushes. I will just relocate it with nylon ties.
Had a 250SXf do the unscrew deal from my boot too, safety wire it! Also notifies you someone's been in there.
Yeah when you get your new ride check it out as with a larger radius line to eliminate kinking, then you make it vulnerable,you could zipty as you say, but kinda hacky, when you get your bike and check the real estate parameters that that you have to work with which ain't much you will see. But if you come to a fix please PM me, hopefully a aftermarket high pressure replacement hose will become available? That would be happening eh! Cheers bottoms up!
Anybody know how difficult it is to replace valve shims? I just measured my valve play and noted that exhaust were right in spec, but the intakes were off. The right side (kickstand side) measured .15mm, and the left measured .13mm. .15mm is still in spec, but at the high end.
It appears the valves should be easy to adjust..... couple of locking nuts on top and slide out the arm....but, i could be wrong......
Never mind, seems I'll answer my own question.....
I did some searching and came across this thread, which does a pretty nice job of explaining the process...
Don't pull the rocker arms to adjust the valves. Read farther down to the reply about pulling the cam. It's easy that way.
Cool, thanks for the tip.
Any reason you couldn't just push the valve down manualy and suck the shim out with a magnet? If done this on other shim-over KTM's before.