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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.
Going back & forth between the 13-14, can you use the same length chain?
The 500 xc-w has more low end power in "mild" mode than the EXC does in stock mode. I do not think you will see the power of the 500 downgraded to a 350 unless you do something drastic. You do get used to the 500's power in technical singletrack, but it is a lot of power for singletrack.
For myself I'm faster on a 350 vs the 500, but I prefer the 500 for more dualsport type of riding and I think the 500 is more versatile.
Good luck in your decision
The stock map on the EXC's will not 'see' the map switches. The Aus map will use them, I don't know about the Euro maps.
The lowest and most mild HP is with the stock map. The Aus map with the Mild map plug is more aggressive than stock.
The 350 is a very fast bike and I'd guess that off road just as fast as the 500, but you'd have to rev it almost 2-3000 rpm more to get the same moto-vation. If you are an aggressive rider and have a small dirtbike background, you'd like the 350 and the 11 less pounds.
The 500 is easier to ride in most conditions. It has a nice soft throttle just off idle and the power builds very predictably. On the road it is way better than the 350. Crusing at 55, the 350 will not pick up speed by just twisting on the throttle, you must downshift. Off-road the 350 would potentially be faster on very rough terrain. Except for the engines, these are the same bike, same handling, same suspension, same transmission ratios.
I waffled between these two bikes for a while. If I rode more off-road, single track 90% of the time and very little road and no pavement, it would have been the 350. If I wasn't a lazy rider that didn't like to shift or rev engines, or maybe 30 years younger, it would have been the 350.
Now I'm waiting for my 350 Freeride to get in the USA.
I love the 500 in most circumstances, a little heavy for technical single track but it's not like I'm trying to race guys on 125's though them everyday. Diffinately a 10 on the fun factor though..
I'm faster in the single track on the 500 than I was on my 390 Berg, don't know why but I'm looking forward to the next Enduro
The dimmer works perfect. You can set the level to what ever brightness you want for "low beam" and never mess with the remote again. I ordered the KTM kit so mine came wired with the factory connector, and took about 2 min. to install. The dimmer is pretty bulky, but I managed to install it behind the mask without even using the supplied extensions as I did not like how far the mask sat out from the forks, and looking at that rats nest of wires behind it. Now I just have to figure out a way to get more downward adjustment out of the light as it is pointed too high without the extensions. It should not be that big of a problem, but I might have to Dremel a little more clearance out of the mask so it can tilt down that far. The light is awesome and very high quality. I would recommend buying the dimmer though, so you can run it on a "low beam" when conditions require. Also on full power you might be mistaken for a UFO landing in the forest somewhere!:eek1
thanks for the replies everyone!
I rarely ride in the really tight stuff, and will be doing a lot of road riding, and possibly supermoto down the line
I was 95% sure what i was going to get, thanks for the last push....500 it is!
The throttle turns both ways on the 500,so too much power is up to the operator.
Great. Thanks forthe input. I spent time cleaning up the rats nest so I have room to spare now, having used the extensions and removed the turn signals.
I have a 2012 500 EXC with the Euro map installed and the map switch. The mild setting makes the throttle more linear. It takes out the snappy response and replaces it with an electric motor feel. The throttle is less responsive. It makes riding in the rocks and mud much easier.
The standard setting seems to have a more rounded power band snappy low end, a strong mid range and good top end. More throttle equals more speed.
The wild setting shifts the power to the mid range and top end. Less low end torque and more top end power is the feeling I get from it.
To change the map setting, flip the switch to the setting you want, kill the motor with the ignition switch,restart and the new setting will be active. The Euro manual says that the setting can also be changed by letting the engine go to idle. I keep meaning to try this but I am having so much fun that I forget I even have the switch. I end up leaving the bike in standard mode since it feels the most versatile.
This bike will pull from idle to 10000 rpm. When I picked it up at the dealer he said "Watch out, it goes faster than you think it does."
Thanks for the pics and explanation. I've got the HDB setup on my 500, 2 other bikes too (love it). How did you re-route the front brake line so it's not over top the gauge protector?
Does the low profile PowerLet socket come with wire to reach the fuse block assembly or did you splice between the fuse block and socket? I'm not experienced in electrical matter so if it ain't plug and play I'm sitting there staring at it thinking, "now what?".:huh
I installed one on my 350 EXC-F (I'm 99% sure the frame is the same as the 500, at least back there) but it has real problems. Overall, nicely made but the mounting arrangement is WEAK on this model: The rack mount consists of two cylinders that are supposed to slip into the two cylinders at the very rear of the subframe where the fender mounts. A through-bolt is supposed to hold these cylinders together. There is also a very short (less than an inch) tab attached right at one of the cylinders that is bolted to the exhaust mount and is supposed to be the 3rd of what needs to be a 3 point mount.
First problem is that the very sturdy powder coat on the rack makes the rack cylinders too big to fit into the frame cylinders. After much filing and sanding, I got the cylinders to "mate" but not perfectly. I installed Loctited bolts as tight as I dared. First rocky ride with a few tools on the rack and it worked itself loose enough to snap off the tab.
The real problem with this model is the lack of a real 3rd mounting point. If you look at the other Nomadic models they all have some other bracket or tab that is several inches away from the other mounts, providing a sturdy mount. This model is essentially cantilevered from the two cylinders which aren't very secure to begin with.
After the failure, emails to Justin Neimeyer of Nomadic got no response at all. It was after the 90 day warranty period (I had not got around to installing it for awhile after purchase) but you'd think there would at least be some response.
As I mentioned, the rack seems well made, especially for the price, but the design on this particular model is crap.
Bit the $billet$ and went w/Pro-Moto. Now that"s bullet-proof.
Great thanks for the info !
I have been unable to find a solution for the routing of my clutch cable. A different HDB top clam that is shorter on the above the bars side might do it but then you are giving up some real estate that is what makes HDB so desirable. What we really need to find is a clutch cable that dives or angles downward sooner. I tried the Moose cable and it did nothing to help the problem. For now, I am keeping an eye on the cable.
In the past I've used the gps hardwire cable to power my gps direct from the battery via inline fuse.
I'll be installing the HDB setup soon which will include a low profile powerlet socket in the top clamp.
Rather than running the gps hardwire cable to the battery, I'm thinking of hardwiring the powerlet socket direct to the battery with inline fuse, then attach the low profile right angle powerlet plug to the end of the gps hardwire cable.
That way I dont have a cable dangling around when the gps is not on the bike. The only other use for the powerlet will be stationary use such as tyre pump or usb phone charger.
Will the right angle powerlet plug to powerlet socket be a secure enough connection to provide uninterrupted power to the gps when riding over rough terrain ?
Just installed the BD dimmer switch for my Squadron. Works awesome! A plug and play set up...low beam is adjustable and uses the stock switch. Mounts on back side of headlight shroud.
Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
Have you seen the cable hooking on the protector at all? Mine seems like it should be OK but it is at the end of it's travel. I've got a tall riser from HDB so I may have to order a shorter unit if it's problematic. Don't have my studs on yet so I haven't ridden the thing since I brought it home.
I installed the BD light with dimmer last night and went for a short ride. At full power it is absolutely incredible. Is it normal to have a 2-3 second delay when switching from full power to "low beam"?
I have not seen it hang up in riding conditions. I have very tall risers as I am 6'5". That may also be part of the problem.
Can you post a picture or two? Has anyone used the SAR switch with the dimmer?