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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.
What tank is installed in the pictures and how was the installation?
I plan to de smog and remove canister /hoses and solenoid valve -anyone find a nice cap for the plug that goes to the evap solenoid- Id love a cap that snaps in for a nice weathertght seal -I bet there is something out there thats OEM harness plug
I see some guys put grease in there and then elec tape it up -I'd like something cleaner
If you're talking about the small hose fitting off the intake I just unscrewed it, plugged it, put it back on with hose in place, looks stock.
here's another option for you
wolfman rolie bag system and SC seat have been ordered! pictures soon to follow.
No -I am talking about the electrical connector -when you take off the Evap valve -it would be great to have a dummy plug
Yeah, the x bushing. Its advertised as lowering the rear up to 7/8"/22mm
I did install it but only got around 14mm 5/8"inch lower.
bummer, for nearly $100 bucks you were only able to get 5/8" lower......don't think that it worth the money....
Send your suspension to "Works Enduro Racing" http://www.werproducts.net/Suspension-Service.html
He can lower your suspension a full inch with out compromising performance. I've ridden by good friends bike that he races on harescrambles and the suspension is on point. That extra inch will give you the extra confidence in the trail
Agree, especially since I was aiming for at least 7/8" lower as advertised.
I will revisit the lowering via spacer and revalve when the shock is due for a service.
For now, I was just wondering what everyone thought of bestdualsportbikes recommended geometry changes, ie lowering the rear more than the forks ??
Works well for desert/sand/baja races, but I certainly wouldn't drop the rear for single track.
I picked up a '13 in October last year after being off dirt bikes since about '98. I wanted a plated bike to give more riding options in SoCal.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I rode it the first time stock to break it in. Did some rode riding and hit some tight single track. Stock gearing way too high.<o></o>
I changed to 14/48 to keep stock chain, added a skid plate and probend bar ends. I then went on a D37 DS ride near Death Valley and rode it about 150 miles that day mostly on dirt ranging from high speed desert to rock garden.<o></o>
went really well for a 2nd ride. <o></o>
I then did some tight single track in warmer weather and suffered the stalling flame out and back firing on trailing throttle. Also the seat was a bit high for me at 5'11" 33" inseam for the tight stuff.<o></o>
I then lowered the shock and with the advice of the forum hear modified the emissions and added a JD tuner. It runs a lot better but it didnt run too bad stock. That said no stalling, an occasional back fire but runs smooth and has good throttle response across the RPM range. I also added a Scotts steering damper for the high speed stuff control and safety.<o></o>
I am looking to increase the spring rates as going through moderate whoops it bottoms and gets squirrely.<o></o>
At about 500 miles the rear tire is rounded with some knobs chunked from the rocky terrain.<o></o>
Overall it is pretty much what I expected and solid so far. <o></o>
I did required oil changes and valve adjustments with no issues. <o></o>
The forum has been really helpful. I also have to say the rear brake is super sensitive and would like to tame it so it doesnt lock up so easily. Suggestions here would be appreciated.<o></o>
I seem to recall seeing a picture of the bag of bolts that come with new bike
Anyone have that picture
I know it has kickstand bolt
SAS plug and copper washer
what are the rest of the bolts for in the bag
there was a small machine screw to plug the throttle body , 2 caps for the tops of the hand control clamps if you decide to omit the mirrors and 2 plugs for removing the gas tank for cleaning. I believe that's it.
Two ways to fix it, less agressive material, or less surface area. You can buy an organic pad which is softer. Or, you can grind material off the pad so there is less touching the disk.
Bill - My thoughts are that suspension geometry performance is very personal. The truth is that very few people in the world push the bike to its performance limits through the corners where they are riding the bike to its adhesion limits. Yes a proper geometry raises the bar of those limits, however if you are tooling along the fire roads taking in the sites and don't have your weight forward, chin over the numberplate, and front tire struggling for grip, then in my eyes you've got a lot more flexibility in your geometry setup. Meaning if you don't push the bikes limits then you have the freedom to set the bike up in ways other than optimum grip.
The Best Dual Sports mods suggests lowering the rear shock. This will provide more trail that will result in increased stability. Whether you want that trait is up to you. By lowering the rear you take weight of the front tire of the bike and this will effect front tire grip. Whether you notice this change or not can only be determined with testing. Case in point; Recently I spent a day on a track setting up my 250 XCFW juggling preload settings on the rear spring and fork tube height settings only. I could only feel differences in the rear spring preload when utilizing changes in rear sag of 5mm, less than that I could not notice the differences in handling, my pro friend could feel 2mm changes in the handling of the bike. The point is that the bike may handle one way or another due to the changes but it is only our own personal experiences that will dictate whether we notice those changes or not.
So if you goal is increased stability and the current set-up on your bike you feel completely happy with the front end bite, then you can try lowering the rear, testing and see if the lower rear effects the bikes front end to the point you will notice it or not. A quick easy test to see if lowering the rear will effect your front end bite too much is to simply lower the forks in the triple clamps, try a large change like 1/4" and see if you notice the changes and what you feel.
Personally I liked my 250XCFW handling with less sag than normal, however the seat height was too much for my 5'5" frame to ride in the jungle comfortably so am riding with more sag than optimum so I can get a toe on the ground. In my eyes though the handling is not my favorite, i crash more often due to not being able to get a foot down than because I have asked too much of the front tire grip (crashed only once on the 250 because of this) in the corners.
What is torque spec on Countershaft bolt on 13 500
DO you use and loctite on this bolt -red or blue or none
Anyone using the dirt tricks washer
Any grease on splines?
I am a 2 stroke guy
This 4 stroke stuff is new
I'll get a 2013 service manual soon
anyone see the 13 manual for sale online yet
Have a '13 500EXC that the low fuel light has quit on. Worked fine initially but I can run the tank nearly empty with no light appearing now. Checked the bulb and its fine; all fuses are fine as well. Any thoughts on what to check next?
44 ft lbs.
grease on splines
I haven't tried the dirttricks washer but it looks like a winner to me.